UKC Logbook - 'Stiff Upper Lip'

18m. Possibly the most accessible roof route at the crag with a deliberately atmospheric feel. Start up Night Raiders and break right into a hanging traverse of the lip that shelters the warm-up area.
What initially feels like a pleasant stroll by the duck pond quickly turns into a deep-dish excursion as you traverse above the innocent bystanders in the warm-up area below. Designed to lull victims into a false sense of competence, the first couple of moves on the roof are pleasant, the feet quickly run out in time for a stretch of un-boltable choss. Take care passing this, a fall here would yield noticeable discomfort. All the holds are absolute sinkers, but the route is long, does not relent anywhere, and the final move has you make a 4-dimensional 270 degree rotation via a stein, to travel under the roof and emerge by the lower off.

Sean Howson 12/Jul/2025.

Ticklists

Sean Howson First Ascents

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User	Date		Notes
SeanHowson	14 Jul	Show βeta βeta: Route currently not fitted with in-situ draws. Draws can either be clipped while you climb. Or, if you wish to pre-rig your draws: Walk to the top of the quarry. If you can see the lower-off for white-wall, you're in the right place. Abseil from the trees (the one closer to the edge), once on the headwall, push yourself left and find the two bolts i've installed half way up the headwall (these are roughly central on the route). Either set up a second abseil from here, leaving your original rope draped over the sappling for safe keeping, or use the bolts to redirect your existing rope (50m needed). Very important to fit a rope protector on the rockface 3 or 4 meters below this lower-off (look existing rub marks). Abseil down to the lip, use a clipstick to rig the furthest draws. Would recommend normal sport draws. To collect draws, would recommend working your way up the route itself, tethering from bolt to bolt while jumaring. Jumaring vertically up the rope hanging in free space nearly rubbed through a static line of mine (hence the rope protector). Once the left of the route is cleaned, you'll need to ascend to the re-direct lower-off, clean this and work your way back right, then ab back down to the lip to collect your last 2 draws before finally jugging back up and out of the quarry.	βeta?
Show beta βeta: Route currently not fitted with in-situ draws. Draws can either be clipped while you climb. Or, if you wish to pre-rig your draws: Walk to the top of the quarry. If you can see the lower-off for white-wall, you're in the right place. Abseil from the trees (the one closer to the edge), once on the headwall, push yourself left and find the two bolts i've installed half way up the headwall (these are roughly central on the route). Either set up a second abseil from here, leaving your original rope draped over the sappling for safe keeping, or use the bolts to redirect your existing rope (50m needed). Very important to fit a rope protector on the rockface 3 or 4 meters below this lower-off (look existing rub marks). Abseil down to the lip, use a clipstick to rig the furthest draws. Would recommend normal sport draws. To collect draws, would recommend working your way up the route itself, tethering from bolt to bolt while jumaring. Jumaring vertically up the rope hanging in free space nearly rubbed through a static line of mine (hence the rope protector). Once the left of the route is cleaned, you'll need to ascend to the re-direct lower-off, clean this and work your way back right, then ab back down to the lip to collect your last 2 draws before finally jugging back up and out of the quarry.
mmmhumous	13 Jul	Show βeta βeta: Note, while the stein itself has been given a manicure, the rock under the roof features a layer of unattached Weetabix (well-milked). Wise climbers will keep their mouths shut for the final moves.	βeta?
Show beta βeta: Note, while the stein itself has been given a manicure, the rock under the roof features a layer of unattached Weetabix (well-milked). Wise climbers will keep their mouths shut for the final moves.