Rockfax Description
Popular and well-protected climbing taking on the large flakes and cracks up the left side of the main wall. Well worth the walk and a good consolation should the other lines here prove too harsh. Start at the base of the main left to right line of weakness in the centre of the crag.
Gain the excellent right-facing layback crack either from the easy line of weakness, or direct via a couple of moves up the wall just to the left. The layback crack ends at a good ledge and a possible belay. From the ledge, move left and climb up the steep twin cracks above a small overlap. The left-hand crack gradually widens to hand width as height is gained and this is followed until just below the top, where a step left and then up is required to finish. The hand-crack has some grass in it but this does not get in the way of the climbing. Thread belays in blocks well back. © Rockfax

Ticklists: West Country Climbs, Ultimate E1 ticklist, CUC Climbing Club, Part 1: The Classics, Summer 2017.

burto 01/Jul/17 2nd
with rowena, hertha
climbingisgreat 21/Jul/16 2nd dog

first E1, found lower layback crack interestingly good, came off not long after you pull into the twin cracks

with Adrian Moore, Ruth Moore
leerybunny 08/Jun/16 Lead O/S
Hidden 18/May/16 Lead
harold walmsley 18/May/16 2nd O/S

Tough but well protected at the overlap

with Chris Calow
Brian H 15/May/16 Lead rpt
alice fuller 15/May/16 Lead β

On Pete's supersafe gear.Not easy, lovely climb

Hidden 15/May/16 Lead
Hidden 02/May/16 Lead O/S
Jess Carr ?/Apr/16 2nd O/S
with Rich Pollard
Hidden 15/Nov/15 Lead dnf
Lumbering Oaf 02/Nov/15 Lead O/S

Fun. Do it.

with Liz
NickJH 09/Aug/15 2nd O/S
with Andy Dunhill
Dilwat 20/Jun/15 Lead dog

What a struggle. Got to the crux, couldn't commit. Got grumpy, lowered off, got even more grumpy, and finally did it. Then fell off just as the crack eased a bit. One of those days.

with Dave P
waydan 22/Mar/15 Lead O/S

Tough crux, after that great crack climbing

Dino Dave 21/Mar/15 Lead dog
Hugobristol ?/Mar/15 Lead dog

Fell after the crux when my foot slipped off at a good rest! Otherwise great.

with Dave
ian bryant ??/2015 -
Tom Seccombe 01/Jun/14 Lead O/S
with Louise Street
bpmclimb 27/May/14 Lead β

After bailing on onsight attempt.

with Clare
Huntlyfiddler 27/May/14 2nd
Justin T 12/Apr/14 Lead O/S
with Pete J
beni ??/2014 Lead O/S
Rosyk 28/Nov/13 2nd O/S
Jay-Ast 28/Nov/13 Lead O/S
with Rosyk
whiteexplorer 16/Aug/13 2nd dog

the previous nights heavy rain meant that not only were the inside of the cracks wet but water was also running down the surface in some important places.managed to get through were Joe fell but my hand slipped in the wet crack while trying to remove the gear he had fallen on,really struggled to finish the rest of the route and only just made it

with joe
dready 16/Aug/13 Lead

wow enjoyed this but took a small fall as the top crack was wet costing me the onsight great moves throughout

Hidden 18/May/13 2nd
morganator 18/May/13 2nd
with International Meet Guest
Hidden 20/Feb/13 2nd rpt
Hidden ??/2013 Lead O/S
Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing ??/2013 Lead O/S
with Siebe Vanhee
No? Yes! 27/Sep/12 Lead O/S

Getting established into wet crack felt very hard and worked for dry foot holds.Very sustained thereafter and great value. Rounded top soaking and bellyflopped over.One 2nd couldn't follow and the other struggled.Would not have surprised me if it had been an E2 5C. An E2 5B at least ?

Hidden 30/Aug/12 Lead
Hidden ??/2012 Lead O/S
Dave Heaton 09/Jul/11 Lead
with Jake Nichol
Dizz 25/Jun/11 2nd β

Led up to the ledge, could not work out the moves, so came down for Richard to lead!

with Richard S
Master Chief 24/Apr/11 2nd rpt
Spearos 24/Apr/11 Lead O/S
jeffb 21/Apr/11 AltLd dnf
with Calder
Calder 21/Apr/11 Lead dnf
with jeffb
jakenichol 07/Apr/11 Lead

Feet popped on upper section, took a big fall. Completed straight after. Many small/medium cams needed. MANY

haylow 07/Apr/11 2nd
Hidden 02/Apr/11 2nd
mbradberry2008 30/Jan/11 Lead β

After more than a year since my onsight attempt of this climb, it finally went, so scared near the top, the saga for this climb is over yay!!! Good crack climbing and some good footwork required, was quite wet today, seems to pool through this climb!!!

flyinfrenchy 30/Jan/11 2nd O/S
andy_pemberton ??/2011 Lead

+ Hester

Bob M 28/Aug/10 TR

Backed off crux moves at start of pitch 2, top roped to retrieve gear

Norman_P_W 28/Aug/10 TR
with Bob M
Bobby Gilbert 27/Jun/10 Lead O/S
katherinesydney 27/Jun/10 2nd dog

a great route if you like laybacks and hand jams... i don't and found it pretty strenuous

verticon 15/May/10 2nd O/S
with Craig Harwood
Hidden 09/May/10 AltLd
Tim Sparrow ?/May/10 Lead
with Pete Robinson
Hidden 22/Apr/10 2nd
Rowansb 15/Apr/10 Lead O/S
with Mungo Nash
Cornish Cream 15/Apr/10 -

Ripped my hands to shreds on this one, best stay away from cracks...

Hidden ??/2010 -
mbradberry2008 12/Dec/09 Lead dnf

Had to escape via cress cendo, lip was wet and crack above it, took 1 fall from there didnt fancy another go!!

with Mark Van Vliet
Rusty2406 12/Oct/09 Lead O/S
with Dale
Chris_barr 06/Aug/09 Lead O/S

Good route, packed it out to fuck!

with Mike
Owen W-G 06/Jun/09 Lead O/S

Pumpy and satisfying but a bit goey for E1? Hot tip is to rack your cams (1.5 to 2.5 friends in particular) on the RHS of your harness, not the left like I usually do.

with Gav
lrandall ?/Jun/09 2nd
with ???
Hidden 31/May/09 Lead
crobinson 31/May/09 2nd

wow, what a climb!very pumped with no rest untill just below the top.

robbo157 05/May/09 Lead O/S

Getting very dirty in the upper crack - loads more mud and flowers in there! Still fab though

TiffTiff 03/May/09 Lead O/S
with Sophie
Sophie Nunn 03/May/09 2nd
Rusty2406 29/Mar/09 TR O/S
Master Chief 29/Mar/09 TR O/S
with Nick
sinbad 11/Oct/08 2nd
eddy-on-the-rocks 11/Oct/08 Lead O/S

Topped out in 'darkness' - full moon.

with Sinbad
cornishben 22/Mar/08 2nd O/S


with Nick COle
cem 21/Mar/08 Lead rpt
dan gibson 18/Feb/08 Lead
Hidden 28/Jan/08 -
DorsetGareth 05/Nov/07 Lead
with Andy & Fiona
richardr ?/Sep/07 Lead O/S
Dan_Carroll 28/Aug/07 Lead O/S

E1 my arse!

eel ?/Aug/07 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/Apr/07 2nd
Oddjob 16/Apr/06 2nd O/S
with Simon
cem 14/Apr/06 2nd
with Rob Smithies, Graham Dolman
Hidden 14/Apr/06 Lead O/S
maybe_si ?/Apr/06 Lead
with jez
Marti999 ??/2005 Lead
with Mick Cooke
Hidden 08/Aug/04 Lead O/S
Hidden 08/Aug/04 2nd O/S
Jez 12/Apr/04 Lead O/S
Mark Kemball 08/Apr/04 Lead
with Stu Bradbury
feilx ??/2004 -
with Phil D
pezzerrr 09/Aug/03 Lead O/S
Tim Sparrow ?/Aug/03 -
with Pete Robinson
Samuel P 25/May/03 2nd
with Luke
leadmat ??/2003 Lead
goi.ashmore 07/Aug/02 Lead O/S
with Roy Thomas, Kaspar Martin
Gus ??/2002 Lead
with luisa giles
Bullybones ??/2002 -
Hidden 10/Nov/01 2nd
Rob Oram 26/Aug/00 2nd O/S
with Dave Frusher
jfletcher 30/Apr/00 Lead
with Barnie Carver
John Southworth ?/Mar/98 Lead
with Andy MacNae
gooberman-hill ??/1998 Lead
with winger
tlr 24/Aug/96 Lead
with Kim
tompercy 05/Apr/96 AltLd
with Tom Bridgeland
steve taylor ?/Apr/92 2nd
with stumpy
Hidden 04/Aug/84 Lead
Hidden ?/Jun/84 -
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