Rockfax Description
Immaculate granite climbing and a stunning line is tempered by serious situations. Start as for Chlorophyll Cluster.
Follow Chlorophyll Cluster up the layback flake to the possible belay ledge. Take the wide crack directly above to a point where moves out right and up on crystals gain an easing just above a small overlap and a small micro nut on the left. Move up the steep slab and then reach up left to a thin seam which widens to a crack higher up. Move up the seam on improving holds before stepping left to a final finger-crack. Thread belays in blocks well back. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
Now up to E5 6a - even with the micro-wire beta, which makes a big difference - in the new Rockfax print guide, and worth that, being 2 grades harder than Finesse. The technical moves crux out right after the lower crack terminates are steady and delightful, the endless slab climbing above comes with a 20m fall potential if the hidden micro-wire is missed, and the final finger crack out left provides a reassuringly safe but still interesting finale - a true classic.

Ticklists

Best slab climbs of the UK, West Country Climbs, Ultimate E5 ticklist, The best the UK has to offer for beasts (apart from the lakes cos its always wet), Definitive *** West Cornwall

Feedback

There is no feedback for this climb.

Login as Existing User to add your feedback

Logged Ascents

User Date Style Notes & Partners
Hidden 15 Sep TR rpt
Hidden 18 Aug TR O/S
th£wrecker 28 Jul TR rpt
Flavio 24 Jul Lead O/S
JendeHoxar 24 Jul 2nd O/S
with Flavio
with Flavio
janegallwey 23 Feb TR
bpmclimb 14 Aug, 2018 TR O/S
with Shunt
with Shunt
Hidden 20 Jul, 2018 TR dog
buffclimbymatthew 31 Mar, 2018 TR
th£wrecker 23 Jul, 2017 TR rpt
with shunt
with shunt
th£wrecker 17 Jul, 2016 TR rpt
with shunt
with shunt
Hidden 16 Apr, 2016 Lead O/S
nickstephens 16 Apr, 2016 2nd O/S
JCAshman 7 Apr, 2016 Lead O/S amazing route, some really intense moves on the crystals!
amazing route, some really intense moves on the crystals!
ian bryant ??, 2015 -
th£wrecker 29 Jun, 2014 TR rpt very powerful thin move at the crux
with shunt
very powerful thin move at the crux
with shunt
Rosyk 28 Nov, 2013 TR O/S
with Jay-Ast
with Jay-Ast
Jay-Ast 28 Nov, 2013 TR O/S certainly not 6a as my wife on sighted it. and frankly she just isn't that good. great route though
with Rosyk
certainly not 6a as my wife on sighted it. and frankly she just isn't that good. great route though
with Rosyk
whiteexplorer 16 Aug, 2013 TR dnf tried hard to do the crux,damaging elbow tendon in the process
with th£wrecker, Kieran
tried hard to do the crux,damaging elbow tendon in the process
with th£wrecker, Kieran
th£wrecker 16 Aug, 2013 TR dog a good start leads to a tough middle section I just didn't work the moves out before my energy was gone
a good start leads to a tough middle section I just didn't work the moves out before my energy was gone
morganator 18 May, 2013 TR Would be a spicy lead. Prob more like E5 5c
with International Meet Guest
Would be a spicy lead. Prob more like E5 5c
with International Meet Guest
Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing ??, 2013 2nd O/S
with Siebe Vanhee
with Siebe Vanhee
Hidden ??, 2012 -
Hidden ??, 2012 Lead O/S
KRB 5 Aug, 2011 Lead β A totally unexpected find 10 mins from the family camp. Sneaked in one hot morning before the beach beckoned. A brilliant and thoroughly enjoyable pitch which is definitely bold though struggles to reach 6a. Martin made a clean 2nd whilst Ollie took photos - mostly of himself. An excellent crag to explore given more time.
with Martin Bridges
A totally unexpected find 10 mins from the family camp. Sneaked in one hot morning before the beach beckoned. A brilliant and thoroughly enjoyable pitch which is definitely bold though struggles to reach 6a. Martin made a clean 2nd whilst Ollie took photos - mostly of himself. An excellent crag to explore given more time.
with Martin Bridges
Harald 15 May, 2010 Lead O/S
Hidden 15 May, 2010 2nd
Hidden 9 May, 2010 AltLd
feilx 3 May, 2009 2nd O/S
with La Mont
with La Mont
Hidden 2 May, 2009 2nd
jgclimb 2 Apr, 2009 TR yee ha!!
with moe tom
yee ha!!
with moe tom
Rusty2406 29 Mar, 2009 TR O/S
Master Chief 29 Mar, 2009 TR O/S
with Nick
with Nick
Rusty2406 24 Mar, 2009 TR
with Mike and Dan
with Mike and Dan
jfletcher 17 Oct, 2008 Lead
robbo157 5 May, 2006 2nd O/S
tuftynick ??, 2005 Lead O/S
with nick warren
with nick warren
Gus ??, 2002 Lead
with luisa giles
with luisa giles
Tim M ??, 2000 2nd O/S
gooberman-hill ??, 1998 Lead O/S high qualiy, and a good lead into the harder routes at St Loy
with winger
high qualiy, and a good lead into the harder routes at St Loy
with winger
FATBOYFAT ??, 1996 2nd O/S
Hidden ??, 1996 Lead O/S
Steve Claw ??, 1995 -
Hidden 18 Jul, 1990 TR
Hidden 21 May, 1988 Lead O/S
6 users have this on their wishlist
Voting
High E5
Mid E5
Low E5
High E4
Mid E4
Low E4
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
Votes cast 12
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
Votes cast 12
Votes cast 11
Style of Ascent
Toproped
Lead
Followed
Alt Leads
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Dogged
Flashed (β)
DNF
Not Set