100m, 7 pitches. As described in the MCrocker guide this is restricted and is a Winter Route, (WW) only permitted from Oct 1st through to 15th March, so is out of bounds at all other times!

Diverse and mostly amenable climbing on a direct line that ascends the full height of the Pinnacle Bay. The climb is well bolted throughout. It is possible to abseil from rim to floor – 70m rope required (note: first abseil is exactly 35m so be careful). Shoot Gully is the scramble descent recommended in the guidebook: while it is okay at first it quickly becomes treacherous - very loose and slippery and there are two notices warning people of trees that might give way. Trying to scramble down could easily be fatal. There are some good trees to ab from, and a 60m rope gets you down in two abseils, or three if you want to go all the way to the rock catch fence.
(1) 20m. F6a+
Ascend an initial easy slab then make a stiff pull diagonally leftwards through the bulge. Follow the easy corner above to a good ledge and belay at a double ring abseil station on wider ledge just above. Eight bolt runners.
(2) 20m. F6b+
Climb the elegant technical groove before continuing more easily up rightwards on large holds to a semi-hanging stance at a three bolt abseil station (with two rings). Seven bolt runners.
(3) 7m. -
Pull up onto the slope above and scramble up to a tree belay (with a belay bolt just above)
(4) 16m. F6b.
Move up onto a raised ledge (peg runner) then step up and swing around onto the left side of the arête. Follow the arête to a pleasant mid-height resting ledge. Clip a high bolt runner on the right before continuing up the left side of the arête and finishing leftwards to a ledge and double ring abseil station in a short corner. Seven bolt runners.
(5) 7m. –
Make a final move up the short corner to gain a narrow ledge above, then step across to the right and scramble carefully up the grass slope to reach the walkway and bolt belays on the left of a clean corner. One bolt runner.
(6) 30m. F6a. Surmount an initial bulge to gain a slight groove and continue straight up on the wall on continually surprising holds to reach a slight upper groove. At the top of this step across to the right on a wide ledge and finish up an awkward scoop to a hanging stance at a double ring abseil station. Thirteen bolt runners.
(7) Pull over onto the summit and walk up the slope to belay in the welcome sunshine at a convenient tree.

FA: (Pitches 1-5) Gordon A Jenkin, Yvonne Jones 14th January 2007. FA: (Pitch 6) Gordon A Jenkin, Martin J Crocker (both led), Yvonne Jones 3rd February 2007

Ticklists

Cheddar Intermediate, The Longest Sport Routes in the UK, Cheddar Road To 7a Ruins, The Cheddar Nose, Cheddar

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Logged Ascents

User Date Style Notes & Partners
harrylusted 15 Jul AltLd dog
with LouisD
with LouisD
Wine and climb 23 Mar Lead O/S Climbed the first pitch only.
Climbed the first pitch only.
Fakey Rocks 23 Mar Lead dnf Oh No! Was going to do the whole thing, but just b4 setting off had a look on UKC to see if you can abseil from the top.... Only to then realise it is now Not In, as past 15th March, oops! so just did 1st pitch (lead O.S.) and lowered off!
Oh No! Was going to do the whole thing, but just b4 setting off had a look on UKC to see if you can abseil from the top.... Only to then realise it is now Not In, as past 15th March, oops! so just did 1st pitch (lead O.S.) and lowered off!
Rocky1339 9 Mar Lead O/S Lead pitches 2&4 pitch 2 was a little tough, had to have a little rest but once i got the holds was nice. Pitch 4 went really smooth as had to get up quick! Pitch 1 was smooth, pitch 3 was a wtf do i do here ???? Awesome day out, really pleased that we managed to get it done! Beer up the top is the best reward!
with Scott ruse
Lead pitches 2&4 pitch 2 was a little tough, had to have a little rest but once i got the holds was nice. Pitch 4 went really smooth as had to get up quick! Pitch 1 was smooth, pitch 3 was a wtf do i do here ???? Awesome day out, really pleased that we managed to get it done! Beer up the top is the best reward!
with Scott ruse
badgerjockey 2 Mar AltLd O/S Fantastic. Good bolting. Tough for the grades?
with Jim
Fantastic. Good bolting. Tough for the grades?
with Jim
robbielee1 24 Feb AltLd O/S
with Dani
with Dani
Stephen Maginn 24 Feb Lead O/S
Danielle Whitman 24 Feb AltLd
Dohnny_Jawes 23 Feb AltLd O/S
Paddy Bos Coe 23 Feb AltLd dog My first multi-pitch. Pulled on the draw through the crux. Everything else went clean. Very enjoyable. Hard climbing with a bag! Great weather although wet underfoot, impossible to smear. Great feeling topping out.
My first multi-pitch. Pulled on the draw through the crux. Everything else went clean. Very enjoyable. Hard climbing with a bag! Great weather although wet underfoot, impossible to smear. Great feeling topping out.
Hidden 23 Feb AltLd rpt
Edpepper 23 Feb AltLd O/S
Hidden 18 Nov, 2018 AltLd O/S
George Cox 18 Nov, 2018 AltLd O/S Lead pitches 2 & 4 cleanly, clean follow on pitches 1 & 3. Really good route, bit of an adventure.
with iog123
Lead pitches 2 & 4 cleanly, clean follow on pitches 1 & 3. Really good route, bit of an adventure.
with iog123
Jimbob64 17 Nov, 2018 AltLd Pitch 2 was beautiful. Tricky though! Pitch 3 was also very good. Decent route.
with Strife
Pitch 2 was beautiful. Tricky though! Pitch 3 was also very good. Decent route.
with Strife
Hidden 27 Oct, 2018 AltLd
Hidden 27 Oct, 2018 AltLd dog
Bristol_Quornstar 25 Oct, 2018 AltLd O/S
with Green_t
with Green_t
Green_t 25 Oct, 2018 AltLd
Petar Samkov 22 Oct, 2018 Lead O/S F**** g brilliant!!!! Proper sport multi pitch route as those in Europe. You won’t be disappointed!
F**** g brilliant!!!! Proper sport multi pitch route as those in Europe. You won’t be disappointed!
tommccluskey 22 Oct, 2018 AltLd O/S 2+4
2+4
boulderthanmost 21 Oct, 2018 AltLd O/S
Jc1 20 Oct, 2018 AltLd
whoisjosh 20 Oct, 2018 AltLd dog Damp conditions. I led the 1st and 4th pitch. Dogged the 1st and pulled on a draw on the 2nd Climbed the 3rd and 4th clean.
with Jc1, Ben
Damp conditions. I led the 1st and 4th pitch. Dogged the 1st and pulled on a draw on the 2nd Climbed the 3rd and 4th clean.
with Jc1, Ben
Ewan Walker 7 Oct, 2018 Lead O/S
with The Old Man
with The Old Man
Hidden 7 Oct, 2018 Lead O/S
Hidden 5 Oct, 2018 AltLd O/S
Binder 5 Oct, 2018 AltLd dog I led p1 & 3. Fell off the crux on p2 which was annoying, although it's a pretty awkward move. I found the arete on p3 rather nervy but I managed to hang on.
with Tutu
I led p1 & 3. Fell off the crux on p2 which was annoying, although it's a pretty awkward move. I found the arete on p3 rather nervy but I managed to hang on.
with Tutu
my 5 Oct, 2018 AltLd dog Great mini adventure. Scramble up gully to stinging nettle terrace (never seen so many and Matt T in shorts!), me P1 (ok), P3 (dog). Matt T P2, P4. Couldn't do the crux move cleanly on P2, and rested/dogged P3... but still great day out. Clean next time maybe!
Great mini adventure. Scramble up gully to stinging nettle terrace (never seen so many and Matt T in shorts!), me P1 (ok), P3 (dog). Matt T P2, P4. Couldn't do the crux move cleanly on P2, and rested/dogged P3... but still great day out. Clean next time maybe!
Tutu 5 Oct, 2018 AltLd O/S Found a mid section of 6b+ a bit awkward as I couldn’t reach the small triangular hold so had to do a weird manoeuvre by crimping a tiny vegetated sidepull which I don’t think is ever used. Adventurous climbing and requires a bit of pondering every now and then. Even easier pitches can be exciting.
with Binder
Found a mid section of 6b+ a bit awkward as I couldn’t reach the small triangular hold so had to do a weird manoeuvre by crimping a tiny vegetated sidepull which I don’t think is ever used. Adventurous climbing and requires a bit of pondering every now and then. Even easier pitches can be exciting.
with Binder
AndThenIWasFlying ?Oct, 2018 Lead dog
with Liam
with Liam
Michael James Spring 8 Sep, 2018 AltLd RP
MarkH143 8 Sep, 2018 AltLd RP Led climbing pitches 2 and 6. Pitch 2 took 3 attempts, pitch 6 was onsight.
Led climbing pitches 2 and 6. Pitch 2 took 3 attempts, pitch 6 was onsight.
Joe Mathers 29 Jun, 2018 AltLd dog
Paz 12 Nov, 2017 AltLd rpt It rained lightly. Look for holds around the right arete on the pitch 2 crux. There's actually a no hands bridged rest there! I cleaned a lot of vegetation off (apart from the grass ledges etc).
with DC
It rained lightly. Look for holds around the right arete on the pitch 2 crux. There's actually a no hands bridged rest there! I cleaned a lot of vegetation off (apart from the grass ledges etc).
with DC
Hidden 4 Nov, 2017 Lead
ez does it 4 Nov, 2017 AltLd O/S Fun climbing despite less than ideal conditions on the day. I was a noob and left the approach shoes behind. Not recommended.
Fun climbing despite less than ideal conditions on the day. I was a noob and left the approach shoes behind. Not recommended.
kenneM 28 Oct, 2017 AltLd O/S
with Chris
with Chris
S.Kew 15 Oct, 2017 AltLd dog Annoyingly got confused at 6b+ crux and got stuck in a out of balance corner. Ok once went right way. Next time.
Annoyingly got confused at 6b+ crux and got stuck in a out of balance corner. Ok once went right way. Next time.
Martin Bagshaw 15 Oct, 2017 AltLd O/S Quite a touch an inobvious bit on the crux pitch. Good climbing throughout.
with S.Kew
Quite a touch an inobvious bit on the crux pitch. Good climbing throughout.
with S.Kew
james n 14 Oct, 2017 Lead O/S
with Lisa P
with Lisa P
Hidden 14 Oct, 2017 2nd O/S
simonsnake77 9 Oct, 2017 AltLd RP Led Pitch 1 and 3 tonight, in headtorches from top of pitch 1. 2hrs 30mins to the top. So pleased to get this clean having slipped and slithered our way up in Dec 2015. P1 is steady with just the first bulge to pull through before easier climbing. P2 has two hard moves in a row but is reasonably short. P3 is the tricky arête then slab with some awkward Bolt placements, easy to fall on this. P4 is long but with many good holds and at least two no hands rests. Not your normal Monday night!
with Ben Symonds
Led Pitch 1 and 3 tonight, in headtorches from top of pitch 1. 2hrs 30mins to the top. So pleased to get this clean having slipped and slithered our way up in Dec 2015. P1 is steady with just the first bulge to pull through before easier climbing. P2 has two hard moves in a row but is reasonably short. P3 is the tricky arête then slab with some awkward Bolt placements, easy to fall on this. P4 is long but with many good holds and at least two no hands rests. Not your normal Monday night!
with Ben Symonds
Richardlake 8 Oct, 2017 Lead O/S Pitches 2 and 4
Pitches 2 and 4
Hidden 8 Oct, 2017 AltLd
will_lake 8 Oct, 2017 AltLd O/S
StrongDan 1 Sep, 2017 AltLd
kingborris 11 Mar, 2017 Lead dog Led all pitches. Very wet in places and had to aid past the bulge on p1. P2 was ok but p3 felt very hard, possibly down to conditions. Dogged all pitches unfortunately as knackered by p4. One to cone back to when dry if possible
with Simon
Led all pitches. Very wet in places and had to aid past the bulge on p1. P2 was ok but p3 felt very hard, possibly down to conditions. Dogged all pitches unfortunately as knackered by p4. One to cone back to when dry if possible
with Simon
Hidden 26 Feb, 2017 AltLd RP
Hidden 24 Feb, 2017 AltLd dog
Hidden 18 Feb, 2017 AltLd
kmcmonagle 18 Dec, 2016 AltLd dog Good fun in the mist but very wet/slippery in a lot places and became a bit of a battle
with Tim Comyn
Good fun in the mist but very wet/slippery in a lot places and became a bit of a battle
with Tim Comyn
LDJ 5 Dec, 2016 AltLd fell on P2
with ollie1
fell on P2
with ollie1
ollie1 5 Dec, 2016 AltLd Very cold fingers
with LDJ
Very cold fingers
with LDJ
EllieWoods 13 Nov, 2016 AltLd rpt Led 6b pitch
with pete belfield, petecallaghan
Led 6b pitch
with pete belfield, petecallaghan
petecallaghan 13 Nov, 2016 2nd dog Fell on crux of P3.
Fell on crux of P3.
pguilloux 5 Nov, 2016 AltLd O/S Led the crux pitch. Well bolted.
with Luca
Led the crux pitch. Well bolted.
with Luca
Ed.Laver 24 Oct, 2016 AltLd O/S
guy_impey 22 Oct, 2016 AltLd
Hidden 21 Oct, 2016 Lead
seabrook 20 Oct, 2016 AltLd dnf Jan led P1, I took P2, then we left. Had to aid over the crux - bloody hard. Likely much better feet in dry conditions
Jan led P1, I took P2, then we left. Had to aid over the crux - bloody hard. Likely much better feet in dry conditions
hutchay 13 Oct, 2016 AltLd O/S 2nd and 4th pitches. Bit awkward on the 2nd pitch.
2nd and 4th pitches. Bit awkward on the 2nd pitch.
Hayley loves climbing 9 Oct, 2016 2nd
RosieYates 8 Oct, 2016 2nd dog Good fun and first proper sport multipitch. Was dark by top pitch - will have to return in daylight.
Good fun and first proper sport multipitch. Was dark by top pitch - will have to return in daylight.
rholdswo 8 Oct, 2016 AltLd O/S
mop449 8 Oct, 2016 Lead RP What a great climb!!!! So much fun. Finished it in the dark.
What a great climb!!!! So much fun. Finished it in the dark.
Adam Hill 7 Oct, 2016 2nd
nniff 4 Oct, 2016 AltLd O/S
with Laurence King
with Laurence King
eddy-on-the-rocks 3 Oct, 2016 AltLd O/S Headtorch acsent.
Headtorch acsent.
EllieWoods 3 Oct, 2016 AltLd O/S Head torch ascent. Led 6a+ and 6b pitches.
Head torch ascent. Led 6a+ and 6b pitches.
tobydunford 2 Oct, 2016 AltLd O/S Stonking route, not a bad pitch in sight.
with Oli
Stonking route, not a bad pitch in sight.
with Oli
David Clover ?Oct, 2016 AltLd O/S
Gloria 29 May, 2016 Lead
with Eric Pieuchot
with Eric Pieuchot
richiebongo 15 May, 2016 Lead rpt 1st pitch only
with Nick Smith
1st pitch only
with Nick Smith
alice fuller 14 Mar, 2016 AltLd Pete kindly gave me P2 and 4. Thought all pitches had their challenges. Great day out.
Pete kindly gave me P2 and 4. Thought all pitches had their challenges. Great day out.
Hidden 14 Mar, 2016 AltLd O/S
Hidden 27 Feb, 2016 AltLd
Paul Baller 16 Jan, 2016 Lead O/S -3 deg at start!
with matt stevens
-3 deg at start!
with matt stevens
Rp20 ??, 2016 AltLd
simonsnake77 13 Dec, 2015 AltLd dog An amazing adventure in conditions that would surely deter most sensible climbers. Always up for a challenge I struggled up my first lead on P1 despite rivulets of water running down the rock face. P2 was difficult in the damp but really only has one really hard move. I was gutted to realise I'd left our approach shoes at the bottom so had to be lowered off and climb again! P3 was my lead and the arête in the wet was virtually impossible, felt like 6c+ and still can't believe I did it. P4 was long 30M but thankfully easier climbing after a really hard first move. Finally topped out at 3.30pm just in time to see a base jumper take the plunge! Epic adventure, can't wait to do it in the dry.
An amazing adventure in conditions that would surely deter most sensible climbers. Always up for a challenge I struggled up my first lead on P1 despite rivulets of water running down the rock face. P2 was difficult in the damp but really only has one really hard move. I was gutted to realise I'd left our approach shoes at the bottom so had to be lowered off and climb again! P3 was my lead and the arête in the wet was virtually impossible, felt like 6c+ and still can't believe I did it. P4 was long 30M but thankfully easier climbing after a really hard first move. Finally topped out at 3.30pm just in time to see a base jumper take the plunge! Epic adventure, can't wait to do it in the dry.
Edward Kwong 1 Nov, 2015 AltLd dog Lead second and final pitch (dogged and clean respectively). Slightly damp and muddy, so not ideal conditions, and route felt harder than grade suggested. 1 - Wet, one tricky move to pull left 2 - Hard, techy 3 - Delicate. Oddly couldn't find the bolt belay, used the tree instead. 4 - Long but steady, partners found a couple of loose bits though thankfully I managed to avoid them. Despite difficulties, was an epic adventure finally getting over the airy top section. 10 mins of sunshine before the fog descended. First proper multi-pitch :D
Lead second and final pitch (dogged and clean respectively). Slightly damp and muddy, so not ideal conditions, and route felt harder than grade suggested. 1 - Wet, one tricky move to pull left 2 - Hard, techy 3 - Delicate. Oddly couldn't find the bolt belay, used the tree instead. 4 - Long but steady, partners found a couple of loose bits though thankfully I managed to avoid them. Despite difficulties, was an epic adventure finally getting over the airy top section. 10 mins of sunshine before the fog descended. First proper multi-pitch :D
rachelvlc 1 Nov, 2015 2nd
Matti Puckridge 1 Nov, 2015 AltLd Pitch 1: Very wet for the first 5 meters. Pitch 2: Pretty desperate for a 6b+ but might've been due to conditions. Pitch 3: Nice arete climbing with a stingy nettle finish. Pitch 4: Airy topout on loose rock added some spice.
Pitch 1: Very wet for the first 5 meters. Pitch 2: Pretty desperate for a 6b+ but might've been due to conditions. Pitch 3: Nice arete climbing with a stingy nettle finish. Pitch 4: Airy topout on loose rock added some spice.
superturbo 26 Oct, 2015 AltLd With Jon and Tom
With Jon and Tom
mop449 26 Oct, 2015 Lead dog Just p1, was very wet.
Just p1, was very wet.
Caspian Johnson 17 Oct, 2015 AltLd O/S First two pitches only
with Tomar
First two pitches only
with Tomar
Tomar 17 Oct, 2015 AltLd O/S Only the first 2 pitches, good climbing. The rest looked of dubious quality
with Caspian
Only the first 2 pitches, good climbing. The rest looked of dubious quality
with Caspian
HappyTrundler 8 Oct, 2015 AltLd O/S Pitches 2,3 and 4 all seemed hard for the grades, desperate move on pitch 2! Great route though, on a lovely mild day.
with Chas
Pitches 2,3 and 4 all seemed hard for the grades, desperate move on pitch 2! Great route though, on a lovely mild day.
with Chas
LJKing 4 Oct, 2015 AltLd O/S A rare foray into the 'dark arts'!
with Adrian Botting
A rare foray into the 'dark arts'!
with Adrian Botting
littleluke 10 May, 2015 Lead O/S
kennythescot 15 Mar, 2015 AltLd dog
with Luke Robinson
with Luke Robinson
DredStripe 14 Mar, 2015 AltLd dog
with D Harvey
with D Harvey
thomas108 ??, 2015 -
robbo99 13 Dec, 2014 AltLd dog Led pitches 2 and 4 on a freezing December morning. Plenty of wet holds/seepage. Felt harder than 6b as a result. Difficult belay from top of 1st pitch due to angle of rope across terrace; recommend the extra effort to climb up and clip 1st/2nd bolts above belay station. Some bloke BASE jumped right next to us! Epic descent near shoot gully in the dark = lost phone
with Bebouze
Led pitches 2 and 4 on a freezing December morning. Plenty of wet holds/seepage. Felt harder than 6b as a result. Difficult belay from top of 1st pitch due to angle of rope across terrace; recommend the extra effort to climb up and clip 1st/2nd bolts above belay station. Some bloke BASE jumped right next to us! Epic descent near shoot gully in the dark = lost phone
with Bebouze
Hidden 13 Dec, 2014 AltLd dog
Hidden 1 Dec, 2014 AltLd O/S
JHC 9 Nov, 2014 Lead dnf P1 only, was too wet to continue
P1 only, was too wet to continue
FL1PD4N ?Nov, 2014 2nd Climbed the last pitch in the dark. Great day out
Climbed the last pitch in the dark. Great day out
Kemics 12 Oct, 2014 AltLd O/S Led pitches 1 and 3. Pitches 3 and 4 both felt nails. Pitch 4 felt as hard as crux pitch but maybe that's poor endurance and cold hands.
Led pitches 1 and 3. Pitches 3 and 4 both felt nails. Pitch 4 felt as hard as crux pitch but maybe that's poor endurance and cold hands.
youwillfindjimbo 5 Oct, 2014 AltLd Amazing climb, did the wrong first pitch (a few metres to the right) but scrambled back onto line for second. I really struggled seconding crux move with heavy backpack on, I blame that!! Amazing third arete pitch!
with dan ely
Amazing climb, did the wrong first pitch (a few metres to the right) but scrambled back onto line for second. I really struggled seconding crux move with heavy backpack on, I blame that!! Amazing third arete pitch!
with dan ely
felixizzy 4 Oct, 2014 AltLd O/S p2&4
p2&4
dereke12000 1 Oct, 2014 AltLd Amazing. P2 was hard though! Led first halves of P3 and P4 then set up belay stances to bring Ian up. Could not describe it as clean onsight, but great fun...
with cogburn
Amazing. P2 was hard though! Led first halves of P3 and P4 then set up belay stances to bring Ian up. Could not describe it as clean onsight, but great fun...
with cogburn
Rupey 15 Mar, 2014 AltLd
with alan
with alan
markfromstoke 12 Mar, 2014 -
with ian d f
with ian d f
ian d f 12 Mar, 2014 AltLd O/S
td72 ??, 2014 -
pheotleyr 12 Dec, 2013 AltLd dog Led pitches 1 & 3 (counting only proper pitches). Everything clean except for the crux of the 6b+ pitch. Doesn't seem to like me...
with Michael
Led pitches 1 & 3 (counting only proper pitches). Everything clean except for the crux of the 6b+ pitch. Doesn't seem to like me...
with Michael
pheotleyr 24 Oct, 2013 AltLd dog Dogged pitch 1 on lead, was wet. Rested on the ropes on pitch 2 on second several times, its crux was hard. Seconded pitch 3 and lead pitch 4 both clean. Was quite scared to hit the big ledge on pitch 4 for quite a while, probably worth setting up a belay below where the actual climbing starts.
Dogged pitch 1 on lead, was wet. Rested on the ropes on pitch 2 on second several times, its crux was hard. Seconded pitch 3 and lead pitch 4 both clean. Was quite scared to hit the big ledge on pitch 4 for quite a while, probably worth setting up a belay below where the actual climbing starts.
Cheese Monkey 24 Oct, 2013 AltLd Led p2,3. Fell on p1 when foot came off wet hold. Fell on p2, greasy crux and hard sequence!
Led p2,3. Fell on p1 when foot came off wet hold. Fell on p2, greasy crux and hard sequence!
steve_gibbs 23 Oct, 2013 AltLd O/S
Nick Russell 23 Oct, 2013 AltLd O/S All four pitches were good, but I think the highlight was the technical arete on p3. Awesome views of Spacehunter wall too! Would be better if it wasn't for the two sections of scrambling up vegetated ledges.
All four pitches were good, but I think the highlight was the technical arete on p3. Awesome views of Spacehunter wall too! Would be better if it wasn't for the two sections of scrambling up vegetated ledges.
Neil McA 8 Oct, 2013 AltLd
with James Turnbull
with James Turnbull
beardy mike ??, 2013 -
francois 21 Oct, 2012 AltLd Intersting stinging nettles approach. Managed to get stung on the nose! Climbing was cool, one rest on P2 (need more flexibility), otherwise clean. P3 felt hard for 6b, all pretty tenuous and balancy. Very good route though and all the pitches had interesting climbing. So 2* We ended up taking our shoes and walking back to the Black Gate as the approach through Shoot gully was shite and we didn't relish tumbling down it on the way back!
Intersting stinging nettles approach. Managed to get stung on the nose! Climbing was cool, one rest on P2 (need more flexibility), otherwise clean. P3 felt hard for 6b, all pretty tenuous and balancy. Very good route though and all the pitches had interesting climbing. So 2* We ended up taking our shoes and walking back to the Black Gate as the approach through Shoot gully was shite and we didn't relish tumbling down it on the way back!
BelayBunney 21 Oct, 2012 AltLd dog Great, exposed route! Felt harder due to seepage on critical holds... I lead P1 and P3. Took a fairly big inverted fall on P3 (6b arete). Top tip: if it says "climb the arete", then climb the bloody arete and don't be tempted to move to what looks like better holds either side, like I did!!!!
Great, exposed route! Felt harder due to seepage on critical holds... I lead P1 and P3. Took a fairly big inverted fall on P3 (6b arete). Top tip: if it says "climb the arete", then climb the bloody arete and don't be tempted to move to what looks like better holds either side, like I did!!!!
Hidden 13 Oct, 2012 Lead dnf
phardy 11 Mar, 2012 Lead O/S
jbulger 7 Jan, 2012 AltLd
bonelessivar 27 Dec, 2011 AltLd
with mandy
with mandy
mandy 27 Dec, 2011 AltLd
Ybot Htulk 6 Nov, 2011 AltLd This climb was too hard for me to do the clean onsight thing, but I knew it would be and really just wanted the experience of 'climbing' a full height route in the gorge. All four pitches are really good especially pitches 2 and 3.
with Ivan
This climb was too hard for me to do the clean onsight thing, but I knew it would be and really just wanted the experience of 'climbing' a full height route in the gorge. All four pitches are really good especially pitches 2 and 3.
with Ivan
The Ivanator 6 Nov, 2011 AltLd Four good pitches, pretty cold on fingers and topped out in darkness (due to late start and slow team ahead). Glad to have got the nerve up to do the route. I led 1 & 3. My leads were both fairly clean, the pitches I seconded were both properly dogged, well I'm not a 6b+ climber (crux) and I rushed the last pitch in the gathering dark (ripped open a big flapper on my finger doing this).
Four good pitches, pretty cold on fingers and topped out in darkness (due to late start and slow team ahead). Glad to have got the nerve up to do the route. I led 1 & 3. My leads were both fairly clean, the pitches I seconded were both properly dogged, well I'm not a 6b+ climber (crux) and I rushed the last pitch in the gathering dark (ripped open a big flapper on my finger doing this).
thomb 6 Nov, 2011 AltLd
with Gareth
with Gareth
DorsetGareth 6 Nov, 2011 AltLd O/S
with thomb
with thomb
Hidden 29 Oct, 2011 2nd dnf
Chris Sansum 16 Oct, 2011 AltLd dog Absolutely brilliant route! Had a great day out, even though I fell off twice on the crux pitch, and had a couple of rests on the route. Guess that means I'm pushing myself! Will be back to lead it clean, and to have a go at 'Castles Made of Sand'. Chris P1,3. Chakrit P2,4.
Absolutely brilliant route! Had a great day out, even though I fell off twice on the crux pitch, and had a couple of rests on the route. Guess that means I'm pushing myself! Will be back to lead it clean, and to have a go at 'Castles Made of Sand'. Chris P1,3. Chakrit P2,4.
Didymus 13 Oct, 2011 AltLd A greasy adventure which started in thick fog and topped out in sunshine 4 hours later! Damp and warm conditions made route tough for grade today. Horrible wet muddy approach up Shoot Gulley and across nettle field. p1 led rp1; p2 2nd dog; p3 2nd o/s; p4 led o/s. Abbed down in 2 with 50m half ropes. Sopping wet grassy slopes with masses of stinging nettles lets the route down - 1 star for rock, 1 star for atmosphere and exposure but not a 3 star route imo.
A greasy adventure which started in thick fog and topped out in sunshine 4 hours later! Damp and warm conditions made route tough for grade today. Horrible wet muddy approach up Shoot Gulley and across nettle field. p1 led rp1; p2 2nd dog; p3 2nd o/s; p4 led o/s. Abbed down in 2 with 50m half ropes. Sopping wet grassy slopes with masses of stinging nettles lets the route down - 1 star for rock, 1 star for atmosphere and exposure but not a 3 star route imo.
richiebongo 11 Oct, 2011 AltLd O/S Jon lead pitch 1, i lead pitch 2 & 3, Jon lead pitch 4. Not a 3 star route.
with Jon Didymus
Jon lead pitch 1, i lead pitch 2 & 3, Jon lead pitch 4. Not a 3 star route.
with Jon Didymus
Kris suriyo 6 Oct, 2011 Lead O/S
Hidden 2 Oct, 2011 Lead O/S
Hidden 1 Oct, 2011 AltLd O/S
Stanners 1 Oct, 2011 AltLd O/S Very painful approach with the stinging nettles. OW! Still throbbing. Led 6a+ and 6b pitch. Found the 6a+ pitch not too bad but engagingly enjoyable. Might not have managed 6b+ pitch without the beta from belaying. Found the 6b pitch very awkward and slopy. Took a while to find the crucial hold around halfway up, very close to giving up. Stuggled with route finding before the 6b aswell as the "peg" that is mentioned was on the opposite side of the ledge. Thankfully got pointed which way to go by climbers on space hunter wall. Bit tired by final pitch so probably felt harder than it was. Sunset view on top was totally worthwhile. Descent down gulley was quite literally a pain in the arse. Great route, but only 2*'S in my opinion. Happy days.
Very painful approach with the stinging nettles. OW! Still throbbing. Led 6a+ and 6b pitch. Found the 6a+ pitch not too bad but engagingly enjoyable. Might not have managed 6b+ pitch without the beta from belaying. Found the 6b pitch very awkward and slopy. Took a while to find the crucial hold around halfway up, very close to giving up. Stuggled with route finding before the 6b aswell as the "peg" that is mentioned was on the opposite side of the ledge. Thankfully got pointed which way to go by climbers on space hunter wall. Bit tired by final pitch so probably felt harder than it was. Sunset view on top was totally worthwhile. Descent down gulley was quite literally a pain in the arse. Great route, but only 2*'S in my opinion. Happy days.
Jim Slater 1 Oct, 2011 AltLd dog
with Ahab
with Ahab
sdi 9 Apr, 2011 AltLd dnf Led P1, dogged P2, fell in nettles on P3, gave up on P4.
with tomski3
Led P1, dogged P2, fell in nettles on P3, gave up on P4.
with tomski3
Hidden 27 Mar, 2011 Lead O/S
Hidden 5 Mar, 2011 AltLd O/S
ericinbristol 28 Feb, 2011 AltLd P1 6a+ L 2nd try (frozen fingers). P2 6b+ S dog (frozen fingers, got crux when tried a different sequence). P3 6b L OS. P4 6a L OS. The recommended descent down Shoot Gully is horrendous. It is too lethally loose to scramble down. We ended up abbing using trees along the edge, draggin my rope through the muck. No fun, especially with signs in the gully warning that the trees in it are loose.
P1 6a+ L 2nd try (frozen fingers). P2 6b+ S dog (frozen fingers, got crux when tried a different sequence). P3 6b L OS. P4 6a L OS. The recommended descent down Shoot Gully is horrendous. It is too lethally loose to scramble down. We ended up abbing using trees along the edge, draggin my rope through the muck. No fun, especially with signs in the gully warning that the trees in it are loose.
Hidden 6 Feb, 2011 Lead
Hidden 6 Feb, 2011 AltLd O/S
Greg Pittam 30 Oct, 2010 AltLd RP 2 + 4, had a quick sit on rope on crux of P2 to work out the move.
with Joe Spoor
2 + 4, had a quick sit on rope on crux of P2 to work out the move.
with Joe Spoor
hutster781 25 Oct, 2010 AltLd dog P1 lead,rested on first pitch breaking out left.p2 second rested at 6b move. p3 lead clean(poorly bolted).p4 second clean
with new rope, steve barnard
P1 lead,rested on first pitch breaking out left.p2 second rested at 6b move. p3 lead clean(poorly bolted).p4 second clean
with new rope, steve barnard
just one more 25 Oct, 2010 Lead
with tony l
with tony l
rowanrs 17 Oct, 2010 AltLd dog Lead second pitch, Ali Lead other three, Found route hard with thumb injury. Awesome fun multi-pitch sport route.
with Ali Graham
Lead second pitch, Ali Lead other three, Found route hard with thumb injury. Awesome fun multi-pitch sport route.
with Ali Graham
Hidden 17 Oct, 2010 Lead rpt
rockcrimper 17 Oct, 2010 AltLd dog
with rowanrs
with rowanrs
Hidden 15 Oct, 2010 AltLd
irish paul 10 Oct, 2010 AltLd O/S Poor
with Dave Ripley
Poor
with Dave Ripley
Hidden 10 Oct, 2010 AltLd
Chubbard 9 Oct, 2010 AltLd dog Ace! Fell off P1 twice pulling off holds! Dogged P2 too.
with Derek
Ace! Fell off P1 twice pulling off holds! Dogged P2 too.
with Derek
Phil PBC ?Oct, 2010 AltLd O/S
with henry castle
with henry castle
Ed Babs 13 Mar, 2010 AltLd O/S P2+4
P2+4
Marti999 13 Mar, 2010 AltLd O/S need to wear a helmet, some lose ibits can be knock of by partys above, can be busy.
with Ed Babs
need to wear a helmet, some lose ibits can be knock of by partys above, can be busy.
with Ed Babs
Hidden 13 Mar, 2010 Lead
Rosea Day ??, 2010 AltLd O/S
with Thomas Heslam
with Thomas Heslam
Matt Clifton ??, 2010 Lead O/S
with Helen
with Helen
Hidden 7 Dec, 2009 AltLd rpt
JimR 30 Oct, 2009 -
andy dunn 18 Oct, 2009 AltLd
with J
with J
Hidden 7 Dec, 2008 AltLd O/S
Paz 2 Mar, 2008 AltLd O/S Superb.
with MT
Superb.
with MT
chris sm 3 Nov, 2007 AltLd O/S Reachy P2. Quite hard move if you are short.... which luckily I'm not. Overall, low in the grade. Nice climbing but a shame about the scrambling pitches.
with Pippa Froggatt
Reachy P2. Quite hard move if you are short.... which luckily I'm not. Overall, low in the grade. Nice climbing but a shame about the scrambling pitches.
with Pippa Froggatt
Paul Robertson 25 Oct, 2007 AltLd Sat on a bolt on P2 to warm frozen fingers
with Mark Courtiour
Sat on a bolt on P2 to warm frozen fingers
with Mark Courtiour
Hidden 14 Jan, 2007 Lead O/S
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Voting
High 6c
Mid 6c
Low 6c
High 6b+
Mid 6b+
Low 6b+
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
Votes cast 40
Votes cast 44
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Not Set
Onsighted
Dogged
Repeated
Redpoint
DNF
Not Set