No description has been contributed for this climb.

Ticklists: Great routes in the Coe, 3 star Scottish winter, Scottish Winter IV-VII.

Rhys Deane 01/Apr/18 Lead
Hidden 01/Apr/18 2nd
Chris Tulley 26/Mar/18 AltLd
with leo-z-g
leo-z-g 26/Mar/18 AltLd O/S

Lead the first two pitches and managed to slightly chip a tooth with my hammer whilst panicking on the slab. Chris finished up the gully. More tech 4 I'd say but deserving of the V because it was quite run out at times

Robertgiddy 18/Mar/18 AltLd

Nice route, 1st pitch is essentially a high ball boulder problem

iainballantyne 18/Mar/18 AltLd O/S

Icy! First pitch bold, second tenuous. Nice!

Mr Fuller 09/Mar/18 AltLd O/S

First grade V and somehow ended up leading the crux pitch. Absolutely plastered in rime and a lot of digging required. Alpine-style top section a nice contrast to the technical lower pitches. Ace route. A green cam got stuck on the crux pitch - would be great if someone got it out and returned it!

with Paul Gibbison
WhipperSnapper 24/Feb/18 2nd
Richard Kendrick 10/Feb/18 Lead O/S

Polish exchange, nice!

Michael Morrell 08/Feb/18 AltLd O/S

Did it this time! Lead 1st and 3rd pitch.

planetmarshall 08/Feb/18 AltLd

Led P2. Good buildup and neve meant excavating for placements and gear. Abbed into broad gully after P3

guitarshane 04/Feb/18 AltLd O/S

Absolutely amazing day, beautiful views and a big blue sky. Great conditions on the route too, excellent climbing on 2nd pitch

Chrismith 04/Feb/18 AltLd O/S

Great route with lots of interesting climbing. P1 had little useful ice and was pretty bold and run out but enough wee ledges for the feet on the slab. Ice and neve improved considerably after and P2 up through the crux was excellent climbing that just flowed - with slightly better gear this time. Wandered up to the summit after as weather was pretty much as perfect as it gets, didn't want to come down!

joeflan 03/Feb/18 AltLd O/S
with chrismoore, Ed
CMoore 03/Feb/18 AltLd O/S
with Ed Newcombe, joeflan
LucaC 01/Feb/18 AltLd O/S

Lead the crux p2

with Eddy
lanky ?/Feb/18 Lead

First pitch was tentative, no gear for a long way and no ice in the big crack to help climb. Led all pitches

with Rich
robgixer 13/Jan/18 Lead O/S

Lead all pitches. No ice at all and soft snow. I found p1 the crux, didn't thrutch up the wide crack managed to use small edges on the left wall and bad feet on the slab. Felt precarious and bold in contrast to upper pitch.

monkeyme2 13/Jan/18 2nd O/S
with Rob
Davy Gunn ??/2018 -
richjm ??/2018 -
wheelsucker ??/2018 -
Michael Morrell 16/Dec/17 Lead dnf

Lead first 2 pitches and joined them into 1. Ran out of day light as we woke up late + conditions were not amazing. Lesson learnt early starts in Nov/Dec!

Hidden 14/Dec/17 AltLd
Jamie Skelton 14/Dec/17 AltLd O/S
with David Gainor
rob16 12/Dec/17 AltLd
Mackinclimb 12/Dec/17 AltLd O/S

Led pitch 1 and 3. Thin and runout slab on p1 was fun!

with rob16
Kike Kikon 10/Dec/17 AltLd O/S
with flo1
Al_Mac 10/Dec/17 AltLd O/S

Brilliant route on a stunning December day. Lots of powder and any turf under more than 3" snow on the first pitch turned out to be distinctly unfrozen, despite other reports to the contrary. Sadly this was discovered after committing to a few moves but for the rest of it, it was avoidable. Further up the cliff there was less snow cover and the turf was bomber.

with Eric H
flo1 10/Dec/17 AltLd

as usual very little ice, nonetheless in great conditions, and a beautiful climb. There is very little ice and about 20 cm of powdery snow in the whole Stob Coire nan Lochan. Saw teams on Dorsal Arete, Twisting Gully, and many other climbs.

Roberttaylor 30/Nov/17 Lead O/S

No useful ice, entire thing felt pretty hard for the grade with thin moves above runouts. Abbed into broad gully then boosted to the car, back to Edinburgh in time for Christmas dinner.

Hidden 23/Mar/17 2nd O/S
elliptic 05/Mar/17 AltLd

Good snowy conditions on the shady side of the coire while the other buttresses were stripping in the sun.

with Huw
Hidden 01/Mar/17 AltLd O/S
Hidden 01/Mar/17 AltLd O/S
Hidden 27/Feb/17 2nd
wi11 13/Feb/17 AltLd O/S
with Domen Petrovcic
donalmurray 11/Feb/17 2nd

Alfie led all the hard stuff, then I led out from the top of the chimney and we moved together to the ridge. Spooky scratchy fun on the slab, thrutchy and challenging with a bag inside the chimney at the top. Onsight, but what does it matter on second!

murray 11/Feb/17 AltLd O/S
Just Will 11/Feb/17 AltLd O/S

A fashionably late night-time ascent having got the Sleeper up that morning. Started the route at the leisurely time 3:30pm as everyone else was heading down for the day - apart from a team high above us whose upward progress was probably best measured in generations. I lead the approach and corner pitch - grimly gyrating my way up the awkward offwidth chimney like an older man trying to cling on to and keep pace with his younger, more energetic mistress. Sideways axe placements proved key to the lumbering, grinding progress made with every bit as much grace as a corpse in a riptide. Still, at least I didn't fall out like Joe managed, or chicken out and go around it like Alfie ;) Murray rolled back the years, balancing his way up the outside of the chimney in typically infuriatingly good style - no doubt easier to motivate yourself for when you have a top rope. Murray lucked out and got the lead for the next couple of pitches, which were pretty hooky and much more enjoyable, even with headtorches. I then lead off the unconsolidated fitness terrain up to the top. We then made the strategic blunder of abseiling into the gully over the other side rather than heading up the ridge to the top. This lead to further abseils over steeper terrain and the odd bit of windslab - but still safe as houses under the full moon.

with murray
Alfie Maun 11/Feb/17 Lead O/S
Hidden 12/Jan/17 2nd O/S
Andrew Nelson ??/2017 -
Andrew Nelson ??/2017 -
seanhendo123 23/Nov/16 AltLd O/S

Ran it in 2 big pitches, I got first lead up to sentry box. Craig finished and we Abbed into broad gulley. Great route with interest most of the way, first V6, happy days

with Lamb
Lamb 23/Nov/16 Lead O/S

2 pitches (P2). First pitch superb with some great moves up the slabs and into the chimney proper, continued interest. Second pitch was good out of the sentry box, with the hero hooks up the right hand crack superb fun with solid gear. Easy ground above would be better under neve. Turf was okay where required.

Brian Pollock 19/Nov/16 Lead O/S

Wasn't expecting to enjoy this as much as I did. Sentry box traverse and crack were particularly good fun. Better than its 2 neighbours at the same grade.

with Gordon
stuart34 06/Mar/16 AltLd O/S
with fat erik
Hidden 06/Mar/16 AltLd O/S
JackM92 10/Feb/16 AltLd O/S

Lots of useless powder about, made some of the moves fairly tricky. No ice on the slabs.

Davesmith1981 07/Feb/16 AltLd
with Tim Oates
Liam Watson 06/Feb/16 AltLd O/S

Quite bold and the turf wasn't particularly frozen. All the things to look for in a winter route.

DavidMcK 06/Feb/16 AltLd O/S

Lead 2nd pitch, turf not fully frozen and lots of powder but really good route. First grade 5!

Ssebo Banange ?/Feb/16 AltLd
Richard Abel 31/Jan/16 AltLd
eaf4 31/Jan/16 AltLd

In 3. 1st and 3rd. Good fun. First pitch thrutchy!

with AmyG
AmyG 31/Jan/16 AltLd O/S

Up and down before 2pm. Crazy Canadians doing super hard routes near unicorn, very impressive.

with eaf4
davkeo 31/Jan/16 AltLd O/S

Did P1&3. P1 is a little bold. P3 thin feet but nice climbing. Ab off into broad gully.

with Richard Abel
niallsash 30/Jan/16 2nd
Piglet69 30/Jan/16 2nd

and DK

GordonAinslie 11/Jan/16 -

Led p1, unhelpful powder on slabs made for an interesting thrutch fest. Not much gear after the initial chimney.

Hidden 11/Jan/16 -
Scott Rankin 09/Jan/16 AltLd
Gordon Lacey 09/Jan/16 AltLd
GordonAinslie ?/Jan/16 -
olekemi 13/Dec/15 AltLd O/S

Top route. Took on the chimney in 2 main pitches, thereafter simul-climbed the gully with a bit of excavation and soloed to the top. Another excellent day.

with Jeremy M
The Grist 13/Dec/15 AltLd O/S

Fun route. Two main pitches. First is quite bold. Second is well protected but probably harder.

with Misha
Misha 13/Dec/15 AltLd O/S

We figured this would be feasible as a shortish hit for Sunday and fortunately we were proved right - started from the road at 8am and back at 3.45pm! Nice day as well - dry, clear and no wind. There was already a party on the route but they were moving quickly. Mark did the thrutchfest P1, which was bold and tricky on the crux wide crack. I led the rest of the difficulties in one long pitch (can be split into two). It looked deceptively easy! The crux was actually on the least steep section at the top, torquing with poor feet. Solid at the grade. Mark did the next pitch (sections of II/III) and I finished up the atmospheric grade I gully. We abbed off a block next to the top of the gully into Boomerang gully, walked down a bit and did a second an off a block over a steep section, which got us down to a gentle slope. 2.5hrs from the road to starting the route (1.20 to the bottom of the corrie - no time wasted), 3.45 for the route and 1.30 from topping out back to the road (walking poles essential for speed on the icy path). Felt great to get back fairly early for a change!

Scott Rankin 12/Dec/15 AltLd dnf
Colin Dyer 12/Dec/15 AltLd

Brilliant route, 4 pitches of sustained interest and technical climbing. Abseil descent from beyond the top of the 4th pitch is mental!

with Swampi
Rob N ?/Dec/15 Lead O/S
with Bruce
Brucemacrosson ?/Nov/15 2nd
with Rob Noone
Hidden 19/Mar/15 Lead O/S
Hidden 19/Mar/15 AltLd O/S
Hidden 15/Feb/15 AltLd O/S
Hidden 15/Feb/15 AltLd
Malcolm Bass ??/2015 -
Nick Wallis ??/2015 -
with Stan
Graeme Barr 29/Dec/14 Lead
Ben Sharp 29/Dec/14 2nd
RM199 28/Dec/14 AltLd dnf

Desperate. Not iced

SWalls 13/Dec/14 AltLd
with James Wheater
Hidden ?/Nov/14 -
Hidden 22/Mar/14 Lead O/S
Marcus McLernon 22/Mar/14 2nd O/S
Dougbart 09/Mar/14 Lead
with paul selfrige
tallpaulselfridge 09/Mar/14 2nd

VERY loose flake at on left start of final gully up to left. Do not go near!!!

dav_713 03/Mar/14 AltLd

more of an ice climb than a mixed climb in those conditions

with Nadir Khan, Joe Saunders
Col Kingshott 02/Mar/14 AltLd O/S

Not much gear. Couple of screws useful.

mattnuttall 02/Mar/14 2nd

Deep powder swim to access route. Quite banked out to start, some good ice but hard to find gear. Great route though. Thanks Andy.

with Andy Wilson
Andrew Wilson 02/Mar/14 Lead O/S
with Matt Nuttall
arose 28/Feb/14 Lead

Not much gear! Great fun but a bit runnout in places.

with Alfie Tipler
geoff b 22/Feb/14 Lead

About the only route safe enough & in condition with so much snow. The initial chimney was buried & we headed off left at the top to find something more entertaining.

with Dr. Nick
karlc 17/Feb/14 2nd O/S
Hidden 09/Feb/14 Lead
luckyjim 09/Feb/14 AltLd

Banked out at the moment more like Grade IV but not much gear!!

with D Helm
Scott Rankin 07/Feb/14 AltLd
with Martin Mckenna
Martin McKenna - UKC 07/Feb/14 AltLd O/S
jules1990 06/Feb/14 2nd O/S
with Tim Neil
Ryan23 ?/Feb/14 2nd
mjsmith1973 28/Jan/14 2nd
with Mike Pescod
Hidden 20/Jan/14 AltLd
joeydurkin 20/Jan/14 -
with Patch
Hidden 11/Jan/14 AltLd O/S
Hidden 11/Jan/14 AltLd O/S
akhughes 10/Jan/14 Lead O/S

Working. Easy conditions. V, 4/5

Hidden 08/Jan/14 -
JWrighty ??/2014 2nd
with IanArm
Hidden 21/Nov/13 AltLd O/S
Andy Moles 21/Nov/13 AltLd O/S
Ross Barnes 16/Mar/13 AltLd
with James
Tubs 03/Mar/13 AltLd O/S

Largely as a thin ice route than powder on rock which I suspect made it quite a bit easier.

with Dave M
RocKalina 23/Feb/13 2nd O/S

Great route! Great condition. Slightly scetchy. Good ice on it.

with Andyclimb
Pete23 07/Feb/13 AltLd
masa-alpin 02/Feb/13 AltLd O/S

Adam lead P1, P3, I lead P2. Abbed off after P3. Great ice in today's condition. Gear was hard to find. Good route!

Adam Booth 02/Feb/13 AltLd O/S

Bold. V 6 seems a bit misleading. The hard bits (teetering up super thin ice) were all well above the runners, luckily it was quite easy despite the scariness. Cool route. 50m ropes got us back to broad gully from the rap point.

James Smith 24/Jan/13 AltLd O/S

walked in for the second day in a row to do 'central grooves' but was beaten to it both days! even after leaving the car park earlier today! did this as a consolation and turned out to be a nice route, little bit bold in places but quite straight forward climbing.

with edvin
furbrow 23/Jan/13 2nd

No ice at all, just an unhelpful quantity of snow. The slab after the initial chimney seemed impossible. In those conditions the route goes hard left up a steep little corner. It took us ages to figure that out.

with Dave A
simon_D 20/Jan/13 AltLd
with Alex
Hidden 16/Jan/13 2nd
phil64 ??/2013 -
Charlie Zephyr Booth ??/2013 AltLd O/S
with tim millen
oliverk 22/Dec/12 AltLd dnf

Led P2. We abbed off from the top of P2 as we were all cold and wet after too much faffing

with Tim E, Mps110
niallk 02/Dec/12 AltLd dnf

2 slow pitches and abbed as darkness was approaching. Led p2 after failing to get off the deck on p1 (thrutch-meister Willie showed how it was done).

libby.southgate 29/Nov/12 AltLd O/S
with Hastie, Jonnie Williams
jonnie3430 29/Nov/12 AltLd O/S

There was thin ice build up on the slabs, mainly snow which made it hard for Will and Libby. In situ tat at the belays made it similar to a sports route, though the tat was very dodgy. I'd have removed them if they weren't frozen in place.

with Will, Libby
Hidden 29/Nov/12 AltLd
Hidden 08/Mar/12 2nd O/S
Whitty2012 19/Feb/12 2nd
with Jacob Davies, ClimberMH
ClimberMH 19/Feb/12 AltLd O/S
with Thomas Whitfield, Jacob Davies
Hidden ?/Feb/12 2nd
Hidden ?/Feb/12 AltLd
James Gordon ?/Feb/12 -
Pete Graham 27/Jan/12 AltLd
with Andy Hall
Hidden 21/Jan/12 AltLd
Harry Holmes 21/Jan/12 Lead O/S
with James Lismore
Rick Ashton 17/Dec/11 AltLd

I lead pitches 1 and 3. Deep snowing to start. Not much gear on whole route but nice delicate climbing on Slabby sections due to little ice.

with Derek Stevenson
robertmichaellovell 10/Dec/11 AltLd
with tomdude
tomdude 10/Dec/11 AltLd O/S

nice. lots of snowice on the slabby bits

Hidden 15/Mar/11 2nd O/S
herman0055 15/Mar/11 2nd
tebs 22/Feb/11 AltLd

Good route - hard going in unconsolidated snow. Came off just above the crux placing gear when my footholds collapsed - held by axes in turf. The whole crag was thawing quite badly, soaked to the skin.

tim newton 22/Feb/11 AltLd O/S
with Barra
Hidden 10/Feb/11 2nd
Hidden 29/Jan/11 AltLd O/S
tjmillen 23/Jan/11 Lead
with vicky
Ken Applegate 08/Jan/11 AltLd

Great route! Led P1&3, then we abseiled off. In-situ belays all the way.

with Scott Kirkhope
Hidden 02/Jan/11 AltLd
Hidden ?/Jan/11 AltLd
drew8connelly ??/2011 -
PAJames ??/2011 -
adie84 ??/2011 -
Hidden 18/Dec/10 AltLd O/S
Captain Solo 30/Nov/10 AltLd

Just enough ice on the slabs to make it pleasant side of testing.

mikemartin 30/Nov/10 AltLd
Dave Searle 26/Nov/10 AltLd

good climbing!

with ben
hamish2016 21/Nov/10 Lead O/S
with John Brannock, chris burn
Hidden 15/Nov/10 AltLd dnf
Hidden 02/Apr/10 Lead
Hidden 22/Feb/10 AltLd
Hidden 22/Feb/10 AltLd O/S
Shaw Brown 20/Feb/10 AltLd
with loz01
Hidden 14/Feb/10 2nd
James Thacker 06/Feb/10 Lead
vincentvega 06/Feb/10 2nd
with James Thacker, danny robb
morganator 30/Jan/10 AltLd
Martin Cooper 30/Jan/10 AltLd O/S

Awkward 1st pich (did as 50m). Bold from sentry box

Martin Haworth 23/Jan/10 AltLd O/S

great route, 1st pitch quite hard.

Andrew Sloan 23/Jan/10 AltLd O/S
Hidden 22/Jan/10 Lead O/S
Smelly Fox 10/Jan/10 AltLd O/S

Only lead one of the easy pitches due to constrictions at the second belay!

Hidden 10/Jan/10 AltLd O/S
s kennedy 10/Jan/10 AltLd O/S
with tris fox, mark mosgrove
Luke Brooks ?/Jan/10 AltLd O/S
Rob Pitt 18/Dec/09 -
with steveE9
Hidden 18/Dec/09 2nd O/S
Hidden ?/Jan/09 AltLd
thewallace ??/2009 AltLd
Neil Adams 14/Dec/08 Lead
with Dougal
Hidden 06/Dec/08 AltLd β
Jim Walton 06/Dec/08 Lead O/S

Three sustained pitches, interest in all. First two awkward, third pitch crux. Fantastic! Frozen turf but no ice.

David Horwood 29/Mar/08 -
andyinglis 05/Jan/08 AltLd O/S

Intermittent, heavy spindrift aside, a good route!

Alasdair Fulton 05/Jan/08 AltLd
Tom Briggs 20/Jan/07 Lead O/S
with Adele Pennington
Hidden ??/2007 AltLd
SteveM 12/Mar/05 AltLd
with Keith
Hidden 12/Mar/05 AltLd O/S
sgl 12/Mar/05 AltLd O/S
with Konnie
Mark Stevenson 06/Mar/05 Lead O/S
Jamie B ?/Mar/04 AltLd
with Kenny G
Dave Almond ?/Feb/03 AltLd

waded up the whole route placing about 3 pieces of gear on the whole route full of powder

with Mark Thomas
Hidden ?/Jan/03 AltLd O/S
Neil McA 14/Mar/02 Lead O/S
with Andy Lewis
bandersnatch ?/Feb/00 Lead
graeme gatherer ??/2000 -
DaveHK 13/Mar/99 AltLd
with Steve Wells
Hidden 29/Dec/97 Lead O/S
TobyA ?/Mar/96 AltLd O/S

Classic stuff. Quite icy, so crux pitch need digging for gear, but allowed a few foot placements on the slab.

with Ed
clanger ??/1996 -
Hidden ?/Dec/93 AltLd
crossleysm ??/1993 AltLd O/S
Hidden 23/Jan/88 Lead
Lone Rider 22/Feb/86 Solo

Originally given IV when done.Crux not too difficult.

Hidden ??/1986 AltLd
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High VI
Mid VI
Low VI
High V
Mid V
Low V
High IV
Mid IV
Low IV
Votes cast 37
High 7
Mid 7
Low 7
High 6
Mid 6
Low 6
High 5
Mid 5
Low 5
Votes cast 35
Votes cast 33
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Not Set