UKC

No description has been contributed for this climb.

Ticklists: Great routes in the Coe, 3 star Scottish winter, Scottish Winter IV-VII.


ClimberDateStyle
Alfie Maun 11/Feb 2nd O/S

Polish Exchange. Picks came loose after first pitch

Hidden 06/Feb AltLd O/S
Hidden 06/Feb AltLd
olekemi 04/Feb AltLd

I looked down and had a flashback from climbing Chimney Route next to this one, this is rather steep. The loose block is still there, still loose. Like so many others have noted on social media, this was a good day to be out.

with Jeremy M
Adam24B 26/Jan Lead dnf

Lead first pitch past the chimney, unfortunately Donal did a pulley in his finger on his way up so abbed off. Mega pitch, little bit scary at the start

Hidden 13/Jan AltLd O/S
rob16 10/Jan AltLd

Lead 1,3 and top out. Route is in awesome conditon, thoroughly enjoyable day out!

Jamie Skelton 07/Jan AltLd O/S
with Jack Morris
metrorat 06/Jan AltLd dnf

Started too late, climbed too slow. Amazing climbing, I'll be back!

with Euan Maharg
James Gordon ?/Jan -
Malcolm Bass 16/Dec/17 AltLd rpt
with Paul Figg, Dave Johnson
Paul Figg 16/Dec/17 AltLd
with Dave Johnson, Malcolm Bass
Hidden 12/Dec/17 AltLd O/S
Graeme Barr 10/Dec/17 AltLd
with Jamie
jay.mac 10/Dec/17 AltLd O/S
HarryNewmark 25/Nov/17 AltLd
with Chris A, Jake Dowell
cacheson 25/Nov/17 AltLd

I led to bottom of chimney. That bit had the ambience of a grade III with the moves of a VI. Hooked an in situ wire before the crux, though it didn't prevent the crux from involving desperate humping and flailing in today's powdery conditions. Harry did chimney and Jake got the fun pitch with what we reckon is normally the crux: pumpy! Abbed off due to deteriorating conditions and fading light. Best mixed route yet?

with Jake, Harry N
davesykes 12/Feb/17 AltLd O/S

Hard move low down on P1 to move R. Good green dragon cam below roof P2, bridge out onto tiny front point placement L arĂȘte prior to going for it.

with Stan
murray 12/Feb/17 AltLd O/S

Found this gem in great nick with neve on the ledges but cracks ice free. First two pitches are super super steep, and both have a distinct crux sequence. The fourth and final chimney pitch felt thrutchy with a few gore-tex based friction moves for the vertically challenged. Watch out for the pile of loose blocks at the head of the chimney waiting to chop ropes!

with Will
Hidden 12/Feb/17 AltLd O/S
LJC 05/Feb/17 AltLd O/S

Half of p1, and crux p2

with Peter
calumhicks 14/Jan/17 Lead O/S

Class route with all sorts of climbing! Best mixed route I've climbed yet

DavidMcK 14/Jan/17 AltLd

Alt leads is generous seeing as Calum did all the grade VI climbing after I couldn't do the crux of pitch 2 on lead, so amazing effort from him! Made a meal of the exit grade V pitch as well but got there in the end. Absolutely great route!

Andrew Nelson ??/2017 -
Andrew Nelson ??/2017 -
Charlie Zephyr Booth 17/Feb/16 Lead O/S

awesome route! first pitch well protected second not as well but still plenty! bailed after that due to second not being able to follow! ill get that when I do chimney route! mint day!

Timothy Miller 14/Feb/16 AltLd O/S

lead 2/3, really nice route and an awesome day. Did this in the mirning and chimney route in the afternoon

with Richard Able
Richard Abel 14/Feb/16 AltLd
tjmillen 12/Feb/16 AltLd
with Mark
Neil Adams 06/Feb/16 AltLd O/S

Good route

Martin McKenna - UKC 06/Feb/16 AltLd O/S

Almost dislodged a massive pillar roughly 8 feet in height on pitch 1. Its sitting just before you enter the chimney. The pillar is only holding on by about 3 inches. Get your partner to belay off left if you plan doing more routes with him/her in the future.

Tom Livingstone 30/Jan/16 AltLd O/S

P2/3

with Ian Welsted
Hidden 08/Jan/16 AltLd
Malcolm Bass ??/2015 -
Nick Wallis ??/2015 -
with Stan
Hidden 20/Dec/14 AltLd O/S
The old James turnbull 01/Mar/14 AltLd O/S

as mentioned in other logs please be aware of a huge loose block on pitch 1. the torques by the side of it would be useful but could move the whole pillar. Its on the right before the chimney, easy to avoid so dont be put off, best mixed route yet. amazing!

with simon kimber, rich howells
thebigeasy 01/Mar/14 -

One of the best mixed routes i've had the pleasure of climbing. Awesome!!

Smith42 16/Feb/14 AltLd O/S
with Lindsay Yule
Adam Booth 15/Mar/13 Lead O/S

Final pitch

with James Gordon
masa-alpin 01/Feb/13 AltLd dnf

In my lead of P2, I took a rest then fell off at the crux... Adam took over and completed, but then we abbed off. Fantastic route!

Adam Booth 01/Feb/13 Lead dnf

Awesome route, never totally desperate but nicely sustained. Unfortunately didn't finish - abbed off after my mate took the mega lob. Great climbing and adventure even though we didn't top out.

with Masa
andyinglis 24/Jan/13 AltLd O/S

Great route fun climbing.

Ross Barnes 24/Jan/13 AltLd

Perfect conditions!

with Andy I
James Smith 23/Jan/13 AltLd O/S

probably the best winter climb I've done yet! edvin led first chimney pitch, I then ran 2 and 3 together to make an absolute killer pitch with everything from wild and steep moves at the overhang to super thin technical moves up the groove, then edvin again to the top for another great pitch. All on a flat calm day with blue skies!

with edvin
akhughes 14/Jan/13 AltLd O/S
with Steptoe
phil64 ??/2013 -
Rich A 19/Feb/12 AltLd O/S
Hidden 27/Jan/12 AltLd O/S
GraMc 16/Dec/11 AltLd O/S

fantastic route, best day out yet?, heavy verglace and alot of powder made it quite bold for the grade, just awsome!

DJayB 16/Dec/11 AltLd O/S

Brilliant climbing. Found it tough. One cheeky point of aid on pitch 2 after i got too scared. Great first route of the winter!!

rockstott ?/Feb/11 2nd dnf
gforce 04/Dec/10 AltLd

Brilliant. Great line with 3 VI pitches (1st, 2nd and 4th). Had a bit of trouble finding the crag in the clag but everything went fine after that. Good bum sliding on the way down.

with Sandy
Johann 13/Feb/10 AltLd O/S
with Tony Shepherd
phil64 ?/Feb/10 Lead
with pete marsh
Hidden 09/Jan/10 AltLd dnf
Dave Almond ?/Feb/03 AltLd

fantastic climb.mark lead first pitch and the overhang was sensational.

with Mark Thomas
Hidden ??/2003 AltLd
Dave Musgrove Jnr 07/Feb/99 AltLd

Reminded me why I don't go winter climbing anymore. Getting up in the Freezing darkness, bastard cold and over-rate climbing! (Probably enjoyed it deep down!)

with Al Willoner
innes ??/1998 AltLd O/S
pingora 06/Jan/97 AltLd O/S
with C Forrest
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Voting
High VII
Mid VII
Low VII
High VI
Mid VI
Low VI
High V
Mid V
Low V
Votes cast 19
High 8
Mid 8
Low 8
High 7
Mid 7
Low 7
High 6
Mid 6
Low 6
Votes cast 18
Votes cast 17
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Not Set
Onsighted
DNF
Repeated
Not Set