140m, 4 pitches.

Rockfax Description
A superb ice-gully that cuts an obvious swathe down the far left of the crag..
1) 3, 35m. Climb the initial icefall to a good ledge and belay on the right of the gully..
2) 4, 45m. The big central pitch can be climbed on the left at Grade 4 or directly up the right side at Grade 5. Exit slightly right onto easier ground and a good belay. .
3) 2, 30m. Climb the easier top pitch passing one ice bulge to belay as far back as possible. © Rockfax

Ticklists: Cold Climbs, North Wales 100 Classic Climbs, Bangor BUMS Uni-Life Ticklist, The best the UK has to offer for mere mortals (apart from the lakes cos its always wet), Cold Climbs (slimmed down).

Cuillin Calling 09/Mar AltLd rpt

Phew, the main pitch lead still feels as long and hard as ever!

J Whittaker 09/Mar AltLd O/S
cragtyke 08/Mar AltLd

Led p1, good condition despite snow this morning

GlennWatson 08/Mar AltLd
Hidden 03/Mar AltLd O/S
Hidden 03/Mar Lead
JoeCoxson 03/Mar AltLd O/S

Amazing day, sheltered from the wind thankfully. Joined in the the queues, but good company on route. Crux pitch was fantastic, some big cauliflowers

benclimbing 03/Mar AltLd O/S
lukegorman 03/Mar AltLd O/S

lead crux pitch

JamesWilliams 01/Mar Lead O/S

Totally mega! Did the pillar variation for. Most of the main pitch (going straight up the middle) which felt 5/6 as the ice was quite brittle and hollow in places and steep the whole way, all tho good natural hooks. Skirted off left just about 8ft before the final section as ran out of screws and balls but bit of axe swapping made for good techy fun. Oh it was. Also fucking windy as balls! The beast from the east!

wolf.leeb 01/Mar AltLd rpt

Mmm.. wrist-gators.. Gusting at 70mph, more than -20 chill factor, but still type1. Win.

mike mo ??/2017 -
mike mo ??/2017 -
Climbingspike ??/2016 -
centurion05 ??/2015 Lead O/S
with Stu Harth
saintlade ??/2014 -
mileshill540 ??/2014 Lead
Hidden 07/Apr/13 AltLd O/S
gravity 06/Apr/13 2nd

Great route in good condition, with lovely weather. A pleasure!

with Binder, David
Binder 06/Apr/13 AltLd O/S

I led p1. Fantastic!

with David B, gravity
jamesh 06/Apr/13 AltLd
with Jim Unwin
blahblahblah 06/Apr/13 Lead O/S

wow wow wow

Pete_Frost 05/Apr/13 AltLd O/S

Olly led the crux pitch through sword of Damocles icicles and mind-warping ice mushrooms.

with Olly Saunders
Hidden 02/Apr/13 AltLd O/S
Hidden 02/Apr/13 AltLd O/S
tim newton 02/Apr/13 Lead O/S
jon clayton 01/Apr/13 Lead
with Dave Hanham
timofy 01/Apr/13 AltLd O/S

p2,4 (the easy ones). crazy ice umbrellas!

robbraby ?/Apr/13 2nd
with Steveo
Palindrome 31/Mar/13 2nd O/S

Fantastic route with some amazing ice formations (umbrella icicles). Led final pitch.

adie84 31/Mar/13 -
with Ben Wolstenholme
Ben Wolstenholme 31/Mar/13 AltLd
with adie84
Hidden 31/Mar/13 Lead O/S
gw3285 30/Mar/13 AltLd
Hidden 30/Mar/13 AltLd O/S
ianstevens 30/Mar/13 AltLd O/S

Adam led p1/2, I did the rest. Amazing route, great dun on good ice. Some really cool formations!

with ad111
stratandrew 30/Mar/13 AltLd O/S

G ran P!&2 together 45m, I led P3 up main icefall and around the massive overhanging ice umbrellas. Imtimidating, technical but a fantastic route. P4 exit up Gully with a few ice steps.

with gw3285
thomb 30/Mar/13 AltLd O/S

beautiful route, pumpy and a little exciting. ice in good condition.

with Jess
philhilo 29/Mar/13 AltLd rpt

Great umbrellas on second pitch. Helen led mini middle pitch and top easy ground. Had a bit of a mare through crux on my old axes with no leashes.

with heg
Hidden 29/Mar/13 Lead
Hidden 29/Mar/13 2nd
herman0055 29/Mar/13 2nd
with Zoomer
Hidden 29/Mar/13 2nd
gingergeorge 29/Mar/13 2nd
with Zoomer
Zoomer 29/Mar/13 Lead O/S

Brilliant climbing, steep and then technical. Really pleased that I've ticked it after waiting a few years for it, and me, to come into condition.

wolf.leeb 27/Mar/13 AltLd O/S

Classic 3star ice in great nik after work at the end of march... Was clipping bolts in the sun a week ago.. Wtf... Ace..

with jo
CurlyStevo ?/Mar/13 Lead

Awesome climb probably harder than some Scottish v ( easy ones like the pumpkin)..... Blue skies and fat ice, i used all my screws on the main pitch including the 21 cm ones! Beware of falling ice from above!!! I lead all the harder pitches, Rob finished the leading off after the crux pitch

with Rob
Misha 26/Jan/13 AltLd O/S

Seemed like the best option in Idwal in thawing conditions. Led P1, nice ice to start with, the crux was getting up the narrow section at the top of the pitch as quickly as possible so as not to get too soaked by the stream running down it, without collapsing the crumbling ice there. Ken led P2, which had decent ice but was pretty wet due to a combination of rain and water streaming down the centre of the ice sheet. I did P3, which had a couple of interesting mixed type sections which probably aren't there when it's in good nick! A very wet but kind of fun day.

with Ken
bobpilgrem 25/Jan/13 2nd

Great route- hardest winter route to date. P1 Phil P2 Jim

with Jim/Phil
3kidsandanorton 24/Jan/13 AltLd
Cuillin Calling 24/Jan/13 AltLd
Skinny Kin 23/Jan/13 AltLd O/S

Enough ice there though not copious. The left hand side of 2nd pitch was thicker than the line described in guidebook (RHS).

with Rod White
DannyK 23/Jan/13 Lead O/S
AB1965 10/Jan/13 AltLd
with Bob Johnson
Hidden ??/2012 -
Pay Attention ?/Jan/11 Lead
Hidden ??/2011 -
PAJames ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 -
Mark Salter ??/2011 -
willson 26/Dec/10 -
with WILLS, ben
Hidden 26/Dec/10 AltLd O/S
sam820 26/Dec/10 2nd O/S
with Matt Sutton
Betha. 25/Dec/10 2nd O/S
with Neil D
Hidden 24/Dec/10 AltLd O/S
AMarchant 24/Dec/10 Lead O/S

Top route, bit wet at the bottom.

Neil D 24/Dec/10 Lead O/S
with Betha.
Rampikino 23/Dec/10 Lead

Thin on the first pitch, but otherwise excellent.

with Cat
capcolliedog 23/Dec/10 AltLd

All there! We were the last up it - came down at dusk. Partner was Dom Gill

Hidden 23/Dec/10 AltLd
david morse 22/Dec/10 AltLd O/S

thin first pitch

with oli, lole
Adam Lincoln 22/Dec/10 AltLd

First ever ice climb. Led crux pitch.

with Tyler
oliverharold 22/Dec/10 2nd
Hidden 22/Dec/10 AltLd O/S
Hidden 22/Dec/10 AltLd O/S
Hidden 22/Dec/10 2nd O/S
Col Kingshott 22/Dec/10 AltLd O/S
ollyroberts 09/Dec/10 AltLd O/S

Pitch 2. Brilliant route!

with Ben
cragtyke 09/Dec/10 AltLd

led P1,P3, steve led P2. Superb route fairly chopped out so didn't feel too hard.

with Steve G
Hidden 08/Dec/10 -
joese7en 07/Dec/10 AltLd O/S
farmus21 07/Dec/10 AltLd

Lead P1 Great route, shame it was a it hacked so made a little easier.

with Sam Radcliffe
samrad 07/Dec/10 AltLd O/S

lead main ice pitch. awesome but had seen allot of traffic so was stepped making it mega easy. good pitch anyway.

with james G
andysroom 06/Dec/10 AltLd O/S

Led P3

Hidden 06/Dec/10 2nd β
the_one_jim 06/Dec/10 AltLd O/S

A bit thin, so at the higher end of the grade. We added a belay near the top of the long ice section (pitch 3), I seconded the first half of this pitch and led through to do the second half. Hannes discovered that dropping ice screws is a bad idea...

Steven Andrews 06/Dec/10 AltLd O/S

Led the long crux pitch.....fantastic!

with andysroom, Richard Lines
Hannes 06/Dec/10 AltLd O/S

In steep but fairly fat condition, main icefall pitch took lots of screws. The ice is slightly thicker on the right but more steep and not hacked out

garethMottram 06/Dec/10 Lead β

Good climb, steep at the top of the third pitch, but good screws up there

DubyaJamesDubya 05/Dec/10 2nd O/S

Paul led both pitches.

with Ian Smith, Paul Hennelly
Hidden 05/Dec/10 Lead O/S
Big Lee 05/Dec/10 AltLd O/S

Spent the majority of the day queuing before each pitch but worth it as a great route. Led the 2nd pitch.

with stew
ojp 05/Dec/10 AltLd O/S

Lead the snow slopes out the top. First pitch was interesting with Andy losing a crampon

with Andy
jon clayton 04/Dec/10 AltLd O/S
with dan commander
iksander 04/Dec/10 AltLd O/S

Cracking route, bottom pitch thin and slushy - no real pro. Tom led belting second pitch with a huge chandelier over the pillar route on the right. Load of powder on third pitch. Leave the rock gear at home and take stubbies in current conditions

Topper Harley 04/Dec/10 AltLd
dan-8990 04/Dec/10 AltLd O/S
with JC
freemanTom 04/Dec/10 AltLd O/S

Awesome route, lead middle pitch, pretty long and sustained. A rare non dogged Joe Brown tick.

with Asbo
ruaidh 04/Dec/10 2nd

I love this route. Dude, I still have half your walking pole. Drop me an email if you want it back.

with mike, carl
IOAN D 03/Dec/10 Lead O/S

nice, topped out by 9.30 am! quick one before work

with leo nathan
Hidden ?/Dec/10 AltLd
Hidden ?/Dec/10 AltLd O/S
Tim Sparrow ?/Dec/10 Solo

Lovely route

kenneM ?/Dec/10 Lead O/S
with Carl Davies
Hidden ?/Dec/10 AltLd
martinbettridge06 ?/Dec/10 AltLd
skippyridgway 29/Nov/10 2nd

In condition but ice still thin in places. Awesome climb

Owain Llewelyn ?/Feb/10 AltLd
with Dad
juza 17/Jan/10 Lead
with Andy D
Hidden 14/Jan/10 AltLd
Hidden 14/Jan/10 AltLd
Hidden 14/Jan/10 AltLd
frost 13/Jan/10 Solo O/S
Hidden 13/Jan/10 Lead
Dave Heaton 12/Jan/10 AltLd

I lead crux pitch

Hidden 11/Jan/10 AltLd O/S
Hidden 10/Jan/10 AltLd O/S
Ewan Russell 10/Jan/10 Lead dnf

Lead the first 2 pitches as 1, Laurence didn't fancy the 2 main pitch. I then tried it for a bit before running away.

with Laurence King
Hidden 10/Jan/10 2nd
Hidden 10/Jan/10 AltLd
ruaidh 10/Jan/10 AltLd O/S

Main pitch 2 went easily enough but belay (off two screws and an ice pillar) hung out a bit so felt serious. Used eight screws and a chopped out ice-threaded on the pitch itself. Great Sunday climb after a big day yesterday. Could've been in Lillaz. Top fun.

with steveej
The Bad Cough 09/Jan/10 AltLd rpt
S Lynch 09/Jan/10 -
John sealey 09/Jan/10 AltLd
spidey 09/Jan/10 AltLd

lead first and last pitch. ace

stoned 09/Jan/10 2nd
TeeBee 09/Jan/10 AltLd
with Jake
Mark Wilson23 08/Jan/10 2nd
with Dave Clarke, wilkie14c
Merlin 08/Jan/10 AltLd O/S

A great route for my first tech 5 lead. After climbing in the shadow of the Cwm all week we made an effort to thrash up to the Glyders after topping out, arriving at the summit just in time to catch an awesome sunset. Descent via Gribin Ridge.

with Grayham Stephenson
wilkie14c 08/Jan/10 Lead O/S
with Mark Wilson, Dave Clarke
Hidden 07/Jan/10 2nd O/S
Hidden 07/Jan/10 2nd
Cardi 07/Jan/10 AltLd O/S
with Steve B, Andy F
Alex Mason 05/Jan/10 Lead O/S

led pitches 1 and 2 then soloed out. wished i had more than 5 ice screws, goggles and warm gloves.

stevebarratt 05/Jan/10 Lead O/S
with Rob Bryniarski
timjones 05/Jan/10 Lead
with Andy McQue
Hidden 04/Jan/10 AltLd
Jim Walton 03/Jan/10 AltLd O/S

We soloed the 1st pitch, I led the second, Dan ran out 3rd then we unroped. Great route in good conditions

katie75 03/Jan/10 Lead O/S

an awesome climb! especially the slight overhanging ice. good protection, first pitch cab be protected by the 2 piton hammered in on the left side once your on more level ground.

with ryan
Hidden 03/Jan/10 AltLd O/S
Misha 02/Jan/10 Solo O/S

Easy, plastic ice. On P2 took steeper line on the right hand side, then traversed left into the 'normal' line closer to the overhanging rock wall as the ice at the top looked dodgy on the right hand side (the pillar hadn't formed). 2nd solo of the day.

thecurlyone 02/Jan/10 2nd O/S

Busy! We were behind 3 other parties when we reached the base at 8am. The ice that hadn't been hacked off by the other parties was good for both axe and screw.

with Dave Smith
Hidden 01/Jan/10 AltLd O/S
bob johnson 01/Jan/10 AltLd O/S
with Rich Ball, Bram
Rob84 01/Jan/10 Lead O/S
with Al Pickard & Mike Dudley
garythomas ?/Jan/10 AltLd
with John Elcock
BenTiffin ?/Jan/10 AltLd
with Andy Bissell
TheAndyBarker ?/Jan/10 AltLd
with Jonny Herbert
jimbonfire ?/Jan/10 Lead O/S
Patrick803 ??/2010 AltLd
with Jeremy Windsor
tim20 ??/2010 -
davebrox ??/2010 AltLd

Dave Murphy

Hidden ??/2010 AltLd O/S
Hidden ??/2010 AltLd
Mark Reeves ??/2010 Lead

So busy up there that day. Waited three hours to lead, and queues on every route

Ralfy ??/2010 -
with Adam
Trefo 29/Dec/09 AltLd O/S

Led pitches 1 and 3.both in fairly lean conditions which made the route quite bold.Tried to hook rather than hack to prevent damage to the route.Had a bloody epic navving off from the top!

with Paul Wood
Kaiser999 23/Dec/09 AltLd

lead the first pitch. Brilliant route

with Derek
The Bad Cough 22/Dec/09 AltLd O/S
with rab
Hidden 19/Dec/09 Solo dnf
nvalentine760 ?/Dec/09 AltLd O/S
Hidden ?/Mar/09 Lead
Daniel Wicks 12/Feb/09 AltLd O/S

led crux, awesome pitch.

Happy Wanderer 12/Feb/09 -
with Ken T, Adrian Alsopp
Diggler 11/Feb/09 AltLd O/S
with Paul V
paul.valentine 11/Feb/09 AltLd O/S
with Mark Dempsey
michael burrows 10/Feb/09 Lead O/S
Lallylandslider 10/Feb/09 2nd
Hidden 08/Feb/09 AltLd O/S
devilman 07/Feb/09 AltLd O/S
AJM 07/Feb/09 AltLd O/S

Great fun. Led p1

with Alec Corio, Tom Lambert
ChalkBall 05/Feb/09 2nd O/S

Set off at 7pm. Perfect conditions and an excellent route.

with lukef
Hidden 05/Feb/09 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/Feb/09 Lead O/S
tumbling wizard ?/Feb/09 -
chrislycett87 ?/Feb/09 -
mynyddresident ?/Feb/09 -
with Mark C
AB1965 12/Jan/09 AltLd
Happy Wanderer 10/Jan/09 AltLd rpt
with Ken T
Jillybean ?/Jan/09 AltLd
with burdy
rob1 ?/Jan/09 AltLd
with Tom Martin
feilx ?/Mar/07 Lead O/S
with Floris & Mike
Luke Brooks ??/2007 -
FrankW 20/Mar/06 Solo O/S
with None
nicholas Barrowclough 01/Mar/06 Solo O/S

Great solo of this classic of the cwm. Not banked out so the main ice pitch was long and steep!

Bullybones ?/Mar/06 Solo
Hidden ?/Mar/06 AltLd
philhilo 19/Feb/06 AltLd rpt

1st proper ice route, with mis matched walking axes and G10s! Fantastic chandaliers to right of bulge. Lead easy 3rd pitch.

with ken tranter
Ian McNeill ??/2006 -
Ian McNeill ??/2006 -
Ian McNeill ??/2006 Lead O/S
Happy Wanderer 05/Mar/05 AltLd O/S

Led P2 & P4

with Ken T
SteveM 05/Mar/05 AltLd
with Keith
Tim W 05/Mar/05 AltLd O/S
with Myles Jordan
geoff b 02/Mar/05 AltLd

A lovely route on a lovely sunny afternoon.

with Libby
Hidden 26/Feb/05 Lead O/S
Cuillin Calling 26/Feb/05 AltLd
Paul-Michael 26/Feb/05 AltLd O/S

Lead 1st & 3rd pitches, IV 3/1/3/2.

Adam Booth 20/Feb/05 AltLd O/S
Ed Booth 20/Feb/05 AltLd
keith leonard ??/2005 -
Derek Ryden ??/2005 AltLd rpt
with Jude Spanken, Caff
Hidden ?/Mar/04 Lead
Hidden 01/Feb/04 AltLd
NickJH ?/Feb/04 AltLd O/S
with CBradley
Ally Smith ?/Feb/03 -
Hidden 10/Jan/97 2nd
Nick Biven 10/Jan/97 Lead
with Duncan Nicol
NeilGriffiths 31/Dec/96 -
with Duncs, Paul Tucker
John Marsland 09/Feb/86 AltLd

Led 2nd pitch direct

with Paul Cook
Hidden ??/1986 Solo
Hidden ??/1986 Solo
steveb2006 20/Jan/85 Lead

Two good ice pitches but very busy.

with Terry Lister
Hidden 17/Jan/85 -
Mark Kemball 18/Feb/79 AltLd
with Ian Grace
Brian Wilderspin ?/Feb/78 AltLd O/S
with Dave Winter
Derek Ryden ??/1978 AltLd O/S
with Andy Draper
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High V
Mid V
Low V
High IV
Mid IV
Low IV
High III
Votes cast 51
High 5
Mid 5
Low 5
High 4
Mid 4
Low 4
High 3
Mid 3
Low 3
Votes cast 46
Votes cast 44
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Not Set