12m. Climb the groove on the left of the arete before making an airy step/pull and
rockup around onto the right side of the arete - deciding exactly where to
do this is the challenge. If there are no more bolts you went too high!

philipbwilliams 05/Nov TR
with Steve Wright
Gibbo 30/Oct Lead
with James Thompson
Karim 17/Sep Lead O/S

Next time round the arête!

C May 19/Aug Lead O/S

couldnt find the step right

SteveLobley 17/Aug Lead O/S
with Rich Taylor
Hidden 06/Aug Lead rpt
Hidden 16/Jul Lead dog
Dan0Me 22/Jun Lead O/S
Moritz L 22/Jun Lead G/U
maki1992 24/May Lead RP
BStar 14/May Lead O/S
with Rachel Gadd, Ollie Wragg, Rachael
Rachael88 14/May 2nd
with Adam
Hidden 30/Apr -
TJ616 20/Apr Lead
meinecke 06/Apr Lead
with Sam W
Sam W 06/Apr Lead O/S

Don't really understand where this route goes, but think we did it

MarcinK 04/Apr Lead O/S
Hidden 26/Mar Lead
Stanners 26/Mar Lead O/S
Hidden 11/Mar Lead dog
jcking231 18/Nov/16 Lead O/S
with Charlotte Hetherington
Turbo 13/Nov/16 Lead dog
with Louis
Callumbuch96 06/Nov/16 Lead O/S
with Alfie
Mikeb163 09/Oct/16 Lead O/S
with Rob
JJones 19/Sep/16 Lead rpt

Another pointless eliminate, this section of cliff needs some rationalisation.

Richard L 21/Aug/16 2nd dog
with Phil Wallam
Hidden 21/Aug/16 TR
Paul_southgate68 31/Jul/16 Lead rpt
with Mark
scrivo 31/Jul/16 Lead
mattharper 24/Jul/16 Lead O/S
with Kate
KatePG 24/Jul/16 2nd O/S
JGriffiths 17/Jul/16 Lead dog
AshBarnes 17/Jul/16 Lead O/S

Went too far like the description says not to! Managed to balance my way around the arete still

with Jake
mrfeebus 17/Jul/16 Lead
awmt102 08/Jul/16 TR dnf
with Fiona
chris85 ?/Jul/16 Lead O/S
Kimmo 03/Jun/16 Lead O/S
with Paddy
PaddyAdams 03/Jun/16 2nd
TomJ 09/Apr/16 Lead O/S
with Lily
Onions 28/Mar/16 Lead O/S
Mick Riley 28/Feb/16 TR
with Dominic
watercrazy ??/2016 Lead O/S
Mike Roger ??/2016 -
Fatclimber 16/Dec/15 Lead dog
with Self Belayed
steve_gibbs 05/Dec/15 Lead O/S
George Frisby 05/Dec/15 Lead O/S
mjcostain 21/Nov/15 Lead O/S
bonelessivar 31/Oct/15 Lead O/S
wurzelinzummerset 31/Oct/15 Lead rpt
with Ric
evhall 31/Oct/15 Lead rpt
with Tim Bray
Hidden 23/Oct/15 Lead O/S
steady 19/Sep/15 Lead β

Went a bit off course ... and well above the last bolt ... Pooped myself stepping out onto the aerate from where I found myself.

with Hailey Wilson
riff156 13/Sep/15 Lead O/S
with Jo Smith
Huntlyfiddler 11/Sep/15 2nd
bpmclimb 11/Sep/15 Lead rpt
with Clare
FreddoT 15/Aug/15 Lead RP
just one more 07/Aug/15 Lead O/S
with Dan Birkby
danbirkby 31/Jul/15 Lead O/S
with SteveB, Gordon
Ian Stirrups 28/Jul/15 2nd

Clipping the bolts on this route is hard, as is the crux near the top

with Sue
Hidden 25/Jul/15 Lead rpt
RachelHC ?/Jul/15 TR O/S
jungle 27/Jun/15 Lead dog
ReubsW 07/Jun/15 Lead
amberr 30/May/15 TR
jungle 30/May/15 Lead O/S
Hidden 10/May/15 Lead rpt
my ?/May/15 Lead dog
cem 26/Apr/15 Lead O/S
with Kelwyn
Shaky Dog 26/Apr/15 Lead rpt
with Charles
FernandoHidalgo 23/Apr/15 Lead dog

Not sure if it is due to the rock fall but the Arete, names and routes now are a bit of a mess. At left of the Arete there is a crack all the way up. That could be a trad route but it is not in UKC. In the whole wall you have a lot of dislodged rock that people mentioned before, then a bolt and then nothing else. I tried to do it but I confused it with the Arete (6c+) when it got complicated I moved left just to find loose rock and a bit higher one bolt. I clipped there, move higher and then I came back to the 6c+ because there was not more bolts to continue at the left of the Arete. I think only two routes should be defined here, there is not space for three (Non the Arete 6a, Almost the Arete 6c+, The Arete 7a+).

Owen W-G 14/Apr/15 Lead O/S
with Steve
Phil Murray 10/Apr/15 Lead rpt

Dithered for 5 mins, getting scared, before committing to the flat holds of the crux around the arête. It was OK but I had one proper refusal first!

with Liz
Hidden 01/Apr/15 Lead O/S
clams ?/Apr/15 Lead
CatMc ?/Apr/15 2nd
with clams
will_benfold 21/Mar/15 Lead O/S

drgrange: that sounds quite unpleasant - I hope there's no lasting damage to Anna's hand. Hadn't realised it had had a rockfall so recently, or I would have steered clear. Removed most of the shattered rock that was piled up in the niche. Some of the rock at the top of the niche still looks unstable, and might even benefit from a couple of solid kicks to speed it on its way.

Pike 21/Mar/15 2nd O/S
drgrange 18/Mar/15 2nd dnf

A massive block about the size of a microwave came loose on this today and crushed Anna's hand. She had to use the other hand to try and lift it off. She was on lead. A very long and painful five minutes later (dangling by her hand) the whole thing comes crashing down. I wouldn't bother with this route for a while

with Anna
wjcdean 03/Mar/15 Lead dog

Went right too early and ended up on the 7a... Which i fell off. found the correct route after that and finished. Didnt pull on gear or bolts, just the dunbass fall that ruined it. hopefully should redpoint it next time

richiebongo 16/Jan/15 Lead O/S
with paulo, Nick Smith
Hidden ??/2015 Lead
james.slater 28/Dec/14 Lead O/S
Phil Murray 24/Dec/14 2nd rpt
with Steve Wright
Steve brit 24/Dec/14 Lead

Grabbed clip round arete

luke glaister 24/Dec/14 Lead rpt
sideshow84 20/Dec/14 Lead O/S
Hidden 20/Dec/14 Lead RP
Huntlyfiddler 16/Dec/14 2nd
bpmclimb 16/Dec/14 Lead rpt
with Clare
evhall 13/Dec/14 Lead O/S
with Tom P
Hidden 13/Dec/14 Lead O/S
sheelba 29/Nov/14 Lead O/S
Ian Bell 26/Oct/14 Lead rpt
with Tania T
mikedevcole 18/Oct/14 Lead rpt

Putting draws in for The Arête.

Hidden 30/Sep/14 Lead rpt
Hidden 14/Sep/14 Lead rpt
Ian JL 11/Aug/14 Lead rpt
with Andy Lovelady
pad-rat 14/Jul/14 Lead
pscholl 24/Jun/14 Lead O/S
Braintax 07/Jun/14 Lead O/S
Hidden 31/May/14 Lead O/S
Hidden 14/May/14 TR
Hidden 27/Apr/14 Lead O/S
Hidden 13/Apr/14 Lead rpt
craigaj.ace 13/Apr/14 2nd
with James
MD 16/Mar/14 Lead rpt
with Mark H
Andy Fielding 01/Mar/14 TR
with Bob Brewer
pftom 16/Feb/14 Lead O/S
chris wyatt 02/Feb/14 -

Climbed not the arete but not the arete. Soggy on the day which made the crux pretty tricky

with rich
Hidden 19/Jan/14 Lead O/S
tommccluskey 10/Jan/14 Lead O/S

Not very good...

with Kyle
Gibbo 09/Jan/14 Lead
with Ollie Keynes
stretch323i ??/2014 Lead β
NickSayers ??/2014 -
Hidden ??/2014 Lead O/S
luke glaister 01/Dec/13 Lead rpt
Cheese Monkey 30/Nov/13 Lead O/S
with Vienna
Hidden 10/Nov/13 Lead O/S
luke glaister 20/Oct/13 Lead O/S

Loved the moves around the arete. Match feet and it all opens up. Nice.

jas128 31/Aug/13 Lead β
Hidden 31/Aug/13 Lead O/S
4skins 18/Aug/13 -
jayyaj 06/Aug/13 Lead dog

Hung around whilst trying to work out which was the fourth bolt. There seem to be two really close to each other.

AlexHerbert79 06/Aug/13 TR

After watching Jason get the heeby jeebies I opted to top rope this one ;)

mikedevcole 15/Jul/13 Lead RP
Hidden 11/Jul/13 Lead O/S
petellis 11/Jul/13 Lead O/S
with Sloth
Hidden 26/Jun/13 TR rpt
gregclarke 23/Jun/13 2nd
with Brian
Huntlyfiddler 23/Jun/13 2nd
bpmclimb 23/Jun/13 Lead rpt
mikedevcole 09/Jun/13 Lead dog
gavin.edwards 05/Jun/13 TR dog
Duncan Turner 05/Jun/13 Lead
danieleaston 27/May/13 Lead O/S
with Mark
Kemics 02/Feb/13 Lead O/S
with Anthony
Anthony Dixon 02/Feb/13 Lead
with Caleb
Hidden ?/Jan/13 2nd
Hidden ?/Jan/13 Lead O/S
Dave Pen ??/2013 Lead

nice layaway moves, lovely flake

Hidden ??/2013 -
slugger5uk ??/2013 Lead
Hidden ??/2013 -
Andrew will wilson ??/2013 -
Dave138 ??/2013 Lead
El Peamundo 04/Dec/12 Lead O/S
The Ivanator 01/Dec/12 Lead O/S

Has its moments, good upper half.

with Alan
Hidden 18/Nov/12 Lead O/S
patrickc 18/Nov/12 Lead O/S
with Sue
paulerussell 06/Oct/12 2nd
with cpoad
cpoad 06/Oct/12 Lead O/S
with Paul R
simeclimb68 29/Sep/12 Lead rpt
simeclimb68 17/Sep/12 Lead O/S
with Keri Vegas
bpmclimb 05/Sep/12 Lead rpt
with Clare
Huntlyfiddler 05/Sep/12 2nd
wurzelinzummerset 20/Aug/12 Lead dog
with Pete
pheotleyr 20/Aug/12 Lead O/S

nice, a nut or cam (or both) are handy between bolts no. 3 and 4

with Alan
spqr 17/Jun/12 Lead O/S
with Piers
Hidden 17/Jun/12 Lead
Hidden 08/May/12 Lead
ruaidh 06/May/12 Lead dnf

brain melt going round the traverse :(

with Fen
Phil Murray 02/May/12 Lead rpt
with Sam Bloor
Dax 24/Apr/12 Lead dog

Got the traverse right but then got tunnel vision re: holds - oh well. Next time it'll be clean.

the rec 24/Apr/12 TR rpt
with Anthony
anthonyp 24/Apr/12 TR rpt
Ian Bell 15/Apr/12 Lead β

Done before

with Eva
Hidden 01/Apr/12 Lead rpt
Hidden 31/Mar/12 Lead O/S
Hidden 25/Mar/12 Lead O/S
michpaulatto 11/Mar/12 Lead dog

A fun route which requires some delicate footwork. I climbed too high before crossing to the right side of the arete and had to rest on the rope.

with Ana Heureux, Pete Davis
Hidden 11/Mar/12 Lead O/S
MD 19/Feb/12 Lead O/S
with Jo
Max Lowry ??/2012 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2012 -
stevethomas 28/Dec/11 Lead
with Heather
Fatclimber 05/Nov/11 TR dog

I lead up to 4th bolt but wimped going round the corner. Jason finished.

johncorber ?/Nov/11 -
mattgrange 02/Oct/11 Lead

Top moves quite excitingly slopey, lots of loose stuff in the initial crack

squicky 08/Sep/11 Lead O/S
with mAndy
Paul_southgate68 29/Aug/11 Lead O/S


jchenoweth 14/Aug/11 Lead O/S
with Espen
purplemushroom 09/Aug/11 Lead
MarkyMark_7 ?/Aug/11 Lead dnf
Hidden 27/Jul/11 Lead O/S
BridgetteB 10/Jul/11 2nd

This was really quite a nice route with one main stretchy move mid way up.

with Alex Roberts
Hidden 27/Jun/11 Lead
Hidden 27/Jun/11 Lead
Hidden 21/Jun/11 Lead
Fred_Richard 21/Jun/11 -
Fred_Richard 21/Jun/11 -
puppythedog 30/Apr/11 Lead rpt

i think 6a+ for the move around the arete.

Hidden 08/Apr/11 Lead rpt
stevethomas 24/Feb/11 Lead O/S
with Helen
duncan 19/Feb/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 19/Feb/11 TR
Hidden 30/Jan/11 Lead rpt
puppythedog 27/Nov/10 Lead rpt
Stone Muppet ?/Nov/10 Lead O/S

some dodgy loose stuff around but generally alright if you're careful

with ap
caradoc 30/Oct/10 Lead O/S
with nick yapp
Hidden 25/Sep/10 Lead O/S
Shaky Dog 11/Sep/10 Lead dog

Bolts. Climb above 4th bolt L of arete before stepping out

with James
puppythedog 11/Sep/10 Lead β

Not onsight because K climbed first.

Kap 15/Aug/10 Lead O/S
webbe01 09/Jul/10 Lead O/S
Ed Coombes 09/Jul/10 Lead O/S
with webbe01
climbingxcat 27/Jun/10 Lead O/S

really enjoyed this one

with Brian
Phil Murray 25/Jun/10 Lead rpt

Nice moves lower down. Exciting moving around arete! THen balancy - a good climb!

with Sam Bloor
Dax 14/Jun/10 Lead dog

Totally and utterly dogged my way up the 3rd and 4th clips and then finished on the route to the left (after about 15-30 minutes of faffing, climbing, downclimbing, umming and arrring). In the end I just couldnt make the move off the arete.

with Ward
fleapitfan 30/May/10 Lead dog
with Emma J
bormuf 30/May/10 Lead RP
midge 30/May/10 2nd
Hidden 22/Apr/10 Lead
Hidden 07/Apr/10 Lead
Paul Bowen 21/Mar/10 Lead rpt
with John James
Bobling 27/Feb/10 2nd
with sredmond
stvredmond 27/Feb/10 Lead O/S

Pretty straight forward. fun move around the arete

Allan Watson 21/Feb/10 Lead
with Conrad
Tim W 17/Jan/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 17/Jan/10 Lead O/S
irish paul 17/Jan/10 Lead O/S
with Tim and Dave
Herron 06/Jan/10 Lead O/S
with Shane Underwood
Chris Fenning ?/Jan/10 Lead
Hidden 18/Oct/09 2nd O/S
Harphead 18/Oct/09 Lead O/S
with Spicerman
Hidden 18/Oct/09 Lead O/S
bpmclimb 24/Sep/09 Lead rpt

Moved around the arete higher up than last time. Neither harder nor easier - just different.

with Clare
Huntlyfiddler 24/Sep/09 2nd
james.lane 14/Sep/09 Lead O/S
with Adam
Dax 18/Jun/09 Lead dog

Hard work clipping the fourth bolt .. just hanging off a two finger and thumb jam in the crack for what seemed like ages. So had a rest after the clip and before moving off again.

Much, much easier moves onto the face if done at the correct point rather than too high as I'd done on the previous attempt.

with Ward
the rec 18/Jun/09 TR rpt

Lots of loose stuff at the start but the climbing gets good after that, especialy the move from the left side of the arete to the right.

with Darrell
Andrewbirkett 15/May/09 Lead O/S
with dugald
Andrewbirkett 01/Apr/09 Lead RP

Arete was scary

with dugald
shyster boulder 18/Mar/09 Lead β
with alex harper
Ian JL 17/Mar/09 Lead O/S
Hidden 15/Mar/09 Lead O/S
PaulTclimbing ?/Mar/09 -
with Dan, Nona, Howell graham, Pete, Jon, Nick, BDT
saz_b ??/2009 -
guy xavier percival 10/Dec/08 Lead O/S
with paul
Luke Marsden 25/Oct/08 Lead O/S
with Dwight Britten
Fluffybunnyslippers 15/Sep/08 Lead O/S
with Owen R
Hidden ?/Jul/08 Lead O/S
stephaneSi ?/Jul/08 2nd
BruceW 07/Jun/08 Lead O/S
with Becca
the rec 03/Jun/08 TR O/S
with Darrell
Dax 03/Jun/08 Lead dog

Clipped wrong bolt when I needed to move onto the arete .. got pumped sorting it out - that and the route finding. Ended up using super lights to "protect" the move - ha! Rather scary.

with Ward
Hidden 01/Jun/08 Lead
kylieo 01/Jun/08 TR
with Phil
Bobcat5060 05/May/08 Lead O/S
with Barney Ashton
Eoinparker 04/May/08 Lead

Step out after fourth clip took some doing

with Gaby Amiel, Iain Ward
martinazando ?/May/08 2nd O/S
with Alex Walker, Paul Lydin
saz_b ?/May/08 Lead dog
with Stephane Simon
thomasadixon 27/Apr/08 Lead O/S

Seems to me it'd be better route straight up the crack with trad gear, this is a bit contrived.

with Bismarck
Piers 18/Apr/08 Lead O/S
with Graham Ansell
DannyK 24/Mar/08 Lead O/S
with pep
Hidden 29/Jan/08 Lead O/S
Paul Robertson 06/Jan/08 Lead rpt
with Mark Courtiour
leigh ?/Jan/08 Lead O/S
with Ben
Tom Heslam ??/2008 Lead O/S
with Ed Heslam
Huntlyfiddler 03/Nov/07 2nd
bpmclimb 03/Nov/07 Lead O/S

Interesting line

with Clare
4 users have this on their wishlist
High 6a+
Mid 6a+
Low 6a+
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
Votes cast 27
Votes cast 17
Style of ascent
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Ground Up
Not Set