66m, 3 pitches. A Cobbler classic with two contrasting pitches. The first pitch is very bold, although good gear can be arranged with care before the crux traverse.

Start directly from the path up steep ground which quickly eases onto the sparsely protected slab, which is climbed on its left side to a delicate foot traverse rightwards to a block, then up to the large belay ledge. From here, go left and climb the obvious right-facing corner to an awkward move leftwards, then up the awkward leaning groove to a thrutchy, awkward mantelshelf onto a ledge and good belay. This pitch has some awkward moves on it. Finish up the dirty corner above or (more pleasantly but bolder) step right and climb the front of the pillar. Often done in two pitches.

W. Smith and H. MacInnes 1952

Ticklists: Scottish 3 and 4 star multi-pitch routes, Great Scottish E1 Mountain Routes.

Hidden 18/Jul/17 Lead dnf
tmawer 25/May/16 AltLd O/S

A little disappointing. Backed off the moves on to the ledge on pitch 2 and put my secret weapon into action (Mike)!

with Mike Norbery
AC1 ??/2016 -
mishabruml 15/Jul/15 AltLd O/S

Belaying Marcus on P1 was quite scary especially when some rock came away in his hands just after the steep unprotected start bit and he almost lost it! I led P2, improbable chimney was really fun and well protected and the easy-looking mantle onto the ledge above was absolutely desperate! Proper brown trousers! SMC guide gives a far more accurate description than Latter

with Andrew Bonham, MarcusP
MarcusP ?/Jul/15 -
euanryan 22/Apr/15 Lead O/S
with Matt
matthew885 ??/2015 Lead
Hugh Simons 22/Sep/14 AltLd O/S

Led Pitch 2. Definite crux getting on to the ledge, pretty scary on lead. Great climb overall though.

John 'B' Hutchinson 22/Sep/14 AltLd O/S

Led pitch 1. Bold and unprotected start, traverse moves are delicate but not difficult. Deserving of its classic status.

Andy Moles 13/Sep/14 Lead O/S

One giant pitch. A bit disappointing for a **/*** route.

with Henward
johannes 24/Aug/14 Lead O/S

First pitch is harrowing. Second pitch has one very awkward move, but not quite so bad. Good climbing.

Hidden 21/Jul/13 AltLd O/S
Andy Clark 21/Jul/13 AltLd
with Burnsie
olekemi 22/Jun/13 AltLd O/S
with Jeremy M, Mark G
tim newton 08/Aug/12 Lead O/S

In my opinion first pitch 5a, second 5b (as in smc books, opposite to gary latter's). Though the first pitch is bold, so higher e1 than the second.

with Ben Payne
leighncsontos ?/Apr/11 Lead O/S

Definitely not a three star route.

with adam yacoob
jonnie3430 30/Aug/10 Lead O/S
with Bjorn
Hidden 30/Aug/10 2nd O/S
Hidden 12/Jun/10 Lead
Lawrie Brand 10/Jun/10 AltLd O/S

E1 5b. Interesting traverse on P1, and entertaining mantle on P2..

jfmchivall 10/Jun/10 AltLd O/S
Hidden ??/2010 -
Hidden ?/Sep/09 AltLd O/S
Hidden ?/Sep/09 AltLd O/S
henwardian 26/Jul/09 AltLd O/S

mantle on pitch 2 felt pretty hard.

with Euan
French Erick 13/Apr/09 AltLd O/S

A great climb...just very windy and cold today

with Karen McIntyre
Stewart B 01/Apr/09 AltLd O/S

1st pitch was a bit worrying

with Ben Litster
Neil Adams 12/Jun/08 AltLd O/S

Bloody freezing, but not too hard once I took my gloves off!

with Rob
Hidden 12/Jun/08 AltLd O/S
Hidden 14/Apr/07 AltLd O/S
Hidden 07/Apr/07 AltLd O/S
Dirk Wallis 12/Aug/06 AltLd
with Grrr
Dave Kerr 10/Aug/02 AltLd
with John Watson
Gudge ?/Sep/01 AltLd O/S
Hidden 21/May/94 AltLd
pingora 21/May/89 2nd O/S
with Nick
Bruce Kerr 28/Sep/80 AltLd
with Alastair Reid
Nigel Bond 26/May/79 Lead
with Martin Crosby
Martin Bennett 02/Jul/75 -
with JD
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High E2
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Votes cast 15
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