UKC

Restricted Access

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 March to 31 July

Reason: Nesting Birds

Only applies to the routes on the rarely climbed and loose south face. 
73m, 4 pitches.

Rockfax Description
A nice variation on the original line that gives a bit more of a challenge in its first half.
1) 4b, 18m. Tackle the twin cracks in the steep wall above the pool, making full use of a leg-jam in the big hole to get established. Above, wander easily up cracks to the belay ledge.
2) 4b, 16m. Climb the smooth crack in the wall above the ledge, on holds that are not as useful as they look.
3) 13m. East Ridge pitch 3.
4) 24m. East Ridge pitch 4. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
Good variations on the first two pitches of the parent route. Start 2m right of East Ridge beneath twin cracks.
1) 17m, 4b. Follow the twin cracks steeply to an easing before a wide ledge.
2) 17m, 4b. The crack in the centre of the back wall leads initially via polished holds to the ridge and the traditional finish of East Ridge.

Ticklists

Orange Spot Gower , Climbs I want do next , Tor Bay

Feedback

User Date Notes
jobangles 24 Sep, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: Pitch 2 seemed outrageous for HS, even ignoring the polish. After downclimbing and reattempting the crux 3 or 4 times, ended up cleaning the gear and taking the arete pitch.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Pitch 2 seemed outrageous for HS, even ignoring the polish. After downclimbing and reattempting the crux 3 or 4 times, ended up cleaning the gear and taking the arete pitch.
Eddyy 17 Apr, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: Lots of polish on second pitch, feels hard for the grade!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Lots of polish on second pitch, feels hard for the grade!

Logged Ascents

330 users have logged this

Guidebooks for Tor Bay and Great Tor

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Voting
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
High HS
Mid HS
Low HS
High S
Mid S
Low S
Votes cast 49
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
High 4b
Mid 4b
Low 4b
High 4a
Mid 4a
Low 4a
Votes cast 43
Votes cast 47
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Toproped
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Dogged
DNF
Flashed (β)
Redpoint
Not Set
Route of Interest
Zig zag crack

Grade: HS 4b ***
(Craig Cwm)

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