Rockfax Description
A radical, rarely climbed line that does battle with the leaning wall right of The Vikings's cracks, prior to ascending the upper slab and headwall via another hard pitch. Start 3m right of the pinnacle at a steep broad rib.
1) 5b, 20m. Climb the bulging rib, then take easier vegetated ground to a ledge and belay under the severely leaning wall.
2) 6b, 35m. Hard and bold climbing up the overhanging wall leads to a thin crack in the small inset slab above (difficult to arrange protection). Continue up the crack over a bulge then move right up onto the huge slab above - 'The Great Slab'. Climb the slab and move left to a large spike and belay.
3) 6b, 30m. Climb up the rib, move right onto the overhanging wall and follow the line of a thin crack to a peg. Step right and up into a groove which leads to an overhang. Finish up the groove right of the overhang. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
A superlative test piece with two powerful pitches.
1.) 22m (5b), P1 of Tophet Grooves
2.) 35m (6b), serious and sustained with no real rests. Difficult, bold moves lead up the overhanging wall (wires out left). Continue up the wall (wires behind expanding flakes) to reach a thin right slating crack in the steep slab above. Climb the crack to ledges, then move rightwards over a bulge and step up right onto the Great Slab. Climb up to the Demon Wall traverse, then move left to a good pinnacle belay.
3.) 30m (6b), climb the rib above the belay; step right to below a thin right slanting crack in the overhanging wall. Climb the wall (cams) to a jug (peg), move right and pull into the groove above. Follow it and its right hand branch to the top.

P.Whillance and D.W Armstrong Aug/1984.

Ticklists

Extreme Rock II

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