Rockfax Description
The large, overhanging corner is one of Bosigran's most coveted Extreme testpieces. It stays damp a lot longer than most of the other routes. Start 5m right of the large spike at a corner.
Climb the corner to an overhang and pass it on the left. Move up to the main corner and make technical moves up it to an overhang. Steep climbing past the overhang is rewarded by better holds on the right wall that enable a swing right out onto the arete and a rest. Move back into the corner and follow it to its end and the top just above. © Rockfax

Ticklists: Extreme Rock, West Country Climbs, Extreme Rock "Wall" Routes, Ultimate E3 ticklist, The 30 best E3 routes in the UK?, The best the UK has to offer for beasts (apart from the lakes cos its always wet).


ClimberDateStyle
James S 11/Jun Lead O/S

What an amazing route! Great moves, great positions, great gear, what more could you ask for?? One of the best e3's I've done.

with geoff
beni 11/Jun Lead
with Wojtek
Hidden 30/May Lead O/S
Duncan Campbell 19/Apr 2nd

Classy, sustained climbing - have wanted to do this for years!

with Gus
Gus 19/Apr Lead O/S

pretty chunky!! Awesome.

FlavioL1989 19/Apr Lead O/S
JenShelley 19/Apr 2nd O/S
Hidden ??/2017 2nd
alice fuller ?/Oct/16 2nd RP

rested with woj in 2012.clean with Pete

LJC 22/Sep/16 Lead O/S

23 runners in 37m. The climbing isn't too bad, but you have to fight for the runners!

with Theo
Scott Quinn 24/Jun/16 Lead O/S

Hard! on my arms the whole way up awesome pitch found it extremely sustained lots of gear but the easy & reliable stuff is well spaced

Tom.Priestley 24/Jun/16 2nd O/S

Bridging Bridging Bridging, Slightly confusing at the crux tho as the holds run out! Keeps on giving after that too.

switch 30/May/16 Lead O/S

Waited until about 7pm on a sunny evening to get on this and it was 99% dry then. Good gear.

with Andy S
Ed Babs 01/Aug/15 Lead O/S
with AlexD
AlexD 01/Aug/15 2nd

Very pleasant. Not sure the benefit of climbing up on the sketchy hollow arÍte as there's another rest just one move on.

with Ed
soph 26/Jun/15 Lead O/S
with Michaela Tracy
phil64 ??/2015 -
Misha 06/Sep/14 2nd rpt
with Eszter
Hidden 06/Sep/14 Lead
david morse 19/Aug/14 AltLd O/S

Felt as hard as Kafoozalem. Couldn't rest at the top of the groove, committed to a desperate back and foot sequence up the "chimney" on the overhanging wall. Not sure that was the best way but it worked, just! Top crack is also nails. Awesome

with chris todd
Hidden 19/Aug/14 2nd O/S
quiffhanger 10/Aug/14 Lead O/S

Not in condition: greasy thrutchy fun!

theotherpetehill 10/Aug/14 2nd dog

Greasy as

with Ross McKerchar
Hidden 26/Jul/14 Lead O/S
tash 26/Jul/14 2nd

Amazing line, though wet and hard!

with ali k
Hidden 06/Jul/14 2nd rpt
Misha 06/Jul/14 Lead O/S

Set out to do Deja Vu but there was a seagull with a chick on the belay ledge so did Variety Show and then this as the consolation prize. Great route! Starts off easily enough (the giant flake is a lot easier than it looks!) but soon picks up the tempo. Not sure how something that looks like a patch manages to be quite as hard! To be fair, the crux is pretty steep but the rest of it isn't and yet it's still hard! A few tricky moves lead to the niche below the crux, which is a good rest but pumpy on the calves. The crux featured an awkward and slightly insecure hand jam and desperate bridging before the relief of getting a jug, followed by a perfect resting ledge. Then came the sting in the tale! Another tough 5c sequence, this time above gear. Solid at the grade, in fact found it harder than Kafoozalem the day before!

with Sue
tim newton 30/Jun/14 Lead O/S
Bristoldave 13/Apr/14 Lead O/S
with Caroline
Hidden 13/Apr/14 Lead O/S
eddy-on-the-rocks 13/Apr/14 Lead rpt

Yay!

with max
mike mo ??/2014 -
AJM 27/Jun/13 Lead O/S

Sustained. Greasy. Brilliant.

with Sophie Wynne-Jones
Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing ?/May/13 Lead O/S
with Benno Wagner, Ed Booth
John Tanner 27/Oct/12 Lead dnf
Hidden 22/Aug/12 2nd β
belay bunny turned bad 22/Aug/12 Lead
with loundsy
eddy-on-the-rocks 05/May/12 Lead dog

2 hours on it! Then fell off. It was a good fun fight.

Dan Arkle ??/2012 Lead
Hidden ??/2012 Lead O/S
CRiddiford 02/Sep/11 Lead dnf

1 or at most 2 moves from the top took the whipper i've been waiting for! ah well next time.

with Jonny
Marti999 10/Aug/11 Lead O/S
Graham C 08/Aug/11 2nd
with Marti
Jack_F 04/Aug/11 Lead O/S

Mental struggle throughout the whole thing. Probably one of the best and worst experiences iv had

nicolat ?/Aug/11 2nd
with James Mitchell
Hidden 22/Jul/11 2nd dnf
richsmithinbristol 10/Jul/11 Lead O/S

Greasy old skool trad struggle.

Graham Atkins 25/Jun/11 Lead
JulesV 25/Jun/11 Lead O/S
tuftynick 30/May/11 2nd O/S
Hidden 30/May/11 Lead
Adam Booth 27/May/11 2nd O/S

Should have led this

Ed Booth 27/May/11 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2011 -
Jack Geldard - Consulting Editor ??/2011 -
GeoffG ??/2011 -
Marcus ??/2011 -
Rob Pitt 01/Sep/10 Lead O/S
with Nick Arding
Dave Turnbull, BMC 24/Jul/10 Lead rpt

Also led in the 90s

with Matt Ward
pezzerrr 08/Jul/10 Lead O/S
Seymore Butt ??/2010 -
Hidden 29/Aug/09 Lead dog
Hidden 30/May/09 Lead O/S
Toby Dunn 12/Jun/07 Lead O/S
with Ruth
feilx 28/Aug/06 Lead O/S
with Iain Hammond
dan gibson 28/Aug/06 Lead O/S
with helen gibson
Hidden 29/Jun/06 2nd
Rich Kirby ?/Jun/06 Lead O/S
with Ash
Hidden 03/May/06 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2006 -
wojt ??/2006 Lead
Hidden 25/May/03 Lead
William Robertson ??/2002 Lead O/S
with Shaun Derry
jfletcher 28/Jun/00 Lead O/S
tompercy ?/Apr/00 2nd
with Tom Bridgeland
Tim M ??/2000 -
ecowaller ??/2000 Lead O/S

Another stunner

with Wendy Sampson
Tom Briggs - Jagged Globe ??/2000 Lead
goi.ashmore 13/Jun/99 Lead O/S
with Iain Fisher
Greg Cunningham 16/May/97 Lead dog

maybe 1 sag near the top/pumped

with andy mcarthy
phardman ??/1997 -
PaulTanton ?/Jun/96 Lead O/S
Hidden 20/May/95 Lead O/S
frost ?/May/95 Lead
Glenn Sutcliffe ??/1995 -
with keefe
keefe ??/1995 -
mattnuttall 24/Jul/94 2nd O/S
with Alan Holden
bazza ??/1994 -
with Dave Yendal
Nick Biven 04/Apr/93 Lead O/S

Superb

with Rich Whitwell
Chris Wright 21/Aug/91 Lead O/S
Hidden 08/Sep/90 Lead
Bruce Kerr 12/Jul/89 2nd
with Keith Turton
Eduardo Martinez 17/Aug/87 Lead O/S
Billg 09/Aug/87 2nd
with Keith Sharples
Hidden 03/May/87 Lead O/S
William Robertson ??/1987 Lead O/S
with Emily, Steve, Shaun etc
sadams 28/Jul/86 AltLd
with Kevin Edwards
andybirtwistle 10/Aug/85 2nd
with Andy Moss
ukb & bmc shark 24/Jul/85 Lead dog
with Bruce Woodley
keefe 25/Aug/84 -
Hammy 11/Aug/81 2nd
with Rob Lawson
Mark Kemball 20/Apr/81 Lead
with Bill McKee
Mike Owen 10/Aug/80 Lead O/S
with Elaine Watson
Hidden 13/Jun/80 2nd
Marcus ??/1980 -
Marcus ??/1980 -
Marcus ??/1980 -
Chris Craggs ??/1980 Lead
with Colin Binks
Paul Clarke ??/1980 -
with Others, FMC
Marcus ??/1980 -
petemeads ??/1974 Lead
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Voting
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High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
Votes cast 22
High 6a
Mid 6a
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Mid 5c
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High 5b
Mid 5b
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Votes cast 22
Votes cast 19
Style of ascent
Lead
Followed
Alt Leads
Not Set
Onsighted
Dogged
Repeated
DNF
Flashed (β)
Redpoint
Not Set