Rockfax Description
Seriously strenuous climbing. Start at the dog-leg crack. The crack is easy to the ledge at 10m, after which it is much harder and sustained. Eventually you are forced out onto the wall on the left. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
Climb the bow shaped crack. Now the hard bit - step back left to go up the remainder of the crack to finally get to good holds.

P Williams 20/May/1986

Ticklists: North Wales Rock Graded List, Trad climbs for sport climbers, a State of Slate, Cracks And Corners To Greatness, Alex's Wales ticklist, Bangor BUMS Uni-Life Ticklist, Ultimate E4 ticklist, The best the UK has to offer for beasts (apart from the lakes cos its always wet).

Hidden 17/Sep 2nd rpt
Richard Kendrick 17/Sep Lead O/S
with LDudill
Hidden 27/Aug Lead dnf
BRoe 27/Aug Lead O/S
with CRAIG!
CraigOsborne 27/Aug 2nd O/S
with Ben
Hidden 04/Aug Lead RP
DaveThexton 03/Aug Lead RP

Did on gri gri summer before. Straight on without practice this time. Managed to avoid some of the strenuous lay backing using the crimps higher up.

with Luke
Hidden 01/Aug Lead dog
Ellis Bird ?/Aug Lead O/S
Hidden 29/Jul TR dog
nai 29/Jul Lead O/S
with 205Chris
tingle 08/Jul 2nd dog
Joss Simpson 08/Jul Lead O/S
GeorgeHH 04/Jul 2nd
with tunnah
tunnah 04/Jul Lead G/U
shed_hed 15/Jun Lead rpt

Good to lead this. Took a double set of #1 -#4 Dragons and no small cams for the top crack because I remembered it being wider - obviously I mis-remembered and those cams were dead weight and I had to wiggle wires in instead where small cams would've worked a treat. Had a little wobble on a move getting into the layback crack. Went down and seconded it after to get some stuck wires and overcammed cams.

JRJones 14/Jun Lead O/S

Mega! In Rob's shoes because i left mine at bus stops...

with Rob Law
Tom McCabe 14/Jun Lead rpt

I'd forgotten how good racing up the top layback feels. Managed less shouting than last time.

BenRyle 29/May 2nd β
with Philip (From Dresden), Kim
jezb1 22/May Lead

Had seconded I before and top roped it twice. Climbed it quickly and efficiently, felt great.

rosiehawker 21/May 2nd

Hard work but brilliant

Dan724 17/May Lead β

Tried this 2 years ago in the dark with Pete after he'd led German Schoolgirl. Had to aid up it from half way as I couldn't see where I was going. Came back and got it done today. Whether it feels soft or hard I think depends on one's approach! I think if you hung around for ages fiddling in gear it could feel really desperate. This seasons mission for me is to work on trusting my gear and falling on safe routes as I need to reduce my levels of anxiety whilst trad climbing. On this route I didn't care about the result, just about giving my all and climbing without fear. I placed large (bomber) wires ever 2-3m and climbed quickly, knowing that the fall would be long but safe. The end result was a pretty euphoric experience of latching the finishing holds in a state of total surprise.

with Air
LauraGoodchild 17/May TR dog
Hidden 17/May Lead G/U
jezb1 13/May 2nd
Andy Peak 1 25/Mar 2nd

Nice to second this and retrieve all Deacons gear which he welded into the crack, lovley climb.

with Andrew Deckon
deacondeacon 25/Mar Lead O/S

Hard work. Needed a little lie down when I topped out.

Marti999 13/Oct/16 Lead β
with Debbie
Hidden 10/Sep/16 Lead O/S
Lakesben 26/Aug/16 Lead G/U

First E4. Got the the final jug and then fell off so abseiled off, cleaned it and did it again properly from the ground up.

with Mark
MichaelGallimore 23/Aug/16 Lead O/S

So nearly fell off this! Got mega pumped at what I thought was a jug. Spotted a crucial hold just at the last second and pulled it back.

JenShelley 23/Aug/16 2nd β
with Mike
natetan 13/Aug/16 Lead O/S
Hidden 13/Aug/16 Lead G/U
Hidden 07/Aug/16 2nd dog
FlavioL1989 30/Jul/16 Lead O/S

Soft! First time I had someone second me with jumars

w-watson 30/Jul/16 2nd dnf
jonleighton 30/Jul/16 Lead O/S
i_a_coops 27/Jul/16 -
with Robbie
Hidden 15/Jul/16 Lead G/U
RebekahD 15/Jul/16 Lead β
with Sam, Calum
tim20 06/Jul/16 2nd dog
Mark Warnett ?/Jul/16 Lead O/S

Great line, great moves, good gear, puppy and powerful. Great route this! Top bit easier than it looks when you are looking from below with wilting forearms!

soph 16/Jun/16 Lead rpt
with Franzi Wie
Kipper-Phil Smith 02/Jun/16 Lead

First route on slate in ages really loved it

with Roscoe
Elliot Walker 20/Apr/16 Lead O/S
with Anna
bede.west 18/Mar/16 Lead dnf

Tried this again and fell off in the same place, having faffed with gear again! Need more practice placing gear while pumped clearly. Also it was slightly damp crack seeps i guess?

tom jefferies 19/Jan/16 2nd dog
Hidden ??/2016 -
spidermonkey09 11/Sep/15 Lead O/S

Chuffed with this, felt pretty easy having been sport climbing a lot as every hold is a jug. Gear totally bomber, get on it!

Hidden 11/Sep/15 2nd dog
robpartridge 03/Sep/15 2nd
GraMc 03/Sep/15 Lead O/S


with rob
AdamFreeman 29/Aug/15 2nd dog

Spent about 10 minutes recovering a piece of gear mid route, but amazing climb definitely going to come back for the lead!

MischaHY 29/Aug/15 Lead O/S

Bomber gear and good rests, with a brilliant layback at the top. Fantastic!

robpartridge 16/Aug/15 Lead dog
with Tom Nichols
JCAshman ?/Aug/15 Lead O/S
Pete_Frost 30/Jul/15 2nd dog

F*cking hard to do this in the dark when you can't see where your feet need to go!

with Dan724
bigdrew 19/Jul/15 Lead β

With some of Dans gear in..

with Dan
WillDoyle 15/Jul/15 Lead dog
Hidden 14/Jul/15 Lead
Hidden 12/Jul/15 Lead O/S
Sardien 25/Jun/15 2nd dog
Tom McCabe 13/Jun/15 Lead O/S

Got up with the help of a few power screams. Good honest hard work.

with Rob Law
dr_botnik 15/May/15 2nd dog
with Andy
Andy Peak 1 15/May/15 Lead rpt

Finally after three tries ground up

cameronr11 13/May/15 2nd dog
bede.west 12/May/15 Lead dog

Pleased regardless of falling off, first trad fall(s) in a while. Cheers for the belay Louis! Fell off just after the last jug before you move into the pure crack pumped out after placing wire and faffing with useless cam. Second fall after foot slipped laybacking crack pissed off! bomber small cams though! Foot caught a draw so have rope burn war wound to!

with German loui
Hidden 17/Apr/15 Lead dnf
breed 14/Mar/15 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2015 Lead dog
Tom.Priestley 28/Sep/14 2nd dog

Out of sequence + pumpy, will return for the lead.

Scott Quinn 28/Sep/14 Lead O/S

Awesome line there is loads of gear but very strenuous to place. A few 6a moves & hell'a pumpy climbing, the whole wall is slightly over vertical when you look from the other side......very well protected deserves e4 6a

mynyddresident 22/Sep/14 Lead

What a mare haha! Haven't climbed slate for ages and hadn't warmed up. Abbed to get stuck gear after, then dropped the head torch too.

with KP
dswansonlow 30/Jul/14 Lead RP

Good to settle an old grudge. Great route!

with Andrew Cherry
Hidden 13/Jul/14 Lead O/S
khalidq 13/Jul/14 2nd dog

A brilliant line. I'm quite disappointed to have fallen off it but one day I will lead it clean.

with James Mchaffie, Dan Vajzovic
Dan Vaj 13/Jul/14 2nd dog
with Khalid, James McHaffie
wi11 06/Jul/14 Lead O/S

Good job there's holds out left...I hate laybacking

with Owen Samuels
duncandarnell 08/Jun/14 Lead dog
will9911 04/Jun/14 Lead O/S
with Glyn
mes32 27/May/14 2nd
with Wilki
Hidden 26/May/14 Lead O/S
Rachel Slater 15/May/14 Lead O/S

First 'proper' E4.

with James Moneypenny
wolf.leeb 05/May/14 Lead O/S

Maseballs.. Crux lower than expected, more rests, more crimps, less laybacking, less pumpy. Worth the wait

with Alexis
John Gale 03/May/14 2nd dog
Kazza91 ?/May/14 Lead
Jelly ?/Apr/14 2nd O/S

Don't care if everyone says this is an easy touch E4 - Seconded it clean! Woop woop! Excellent lead by Mark.

Hidden ?/Apr/14 TR dnf
Hidden 06/Oct/13 Lead β
Andy Peak 1 22/Sep/13 Lead

Went past good nut runner on the upper section, which scrambled my mind when i had to place small cams, down climbed back throue the crux to place the wire, this blue the onsite for me, gutted:-( must chill out:-)

Pieterjan De Roo 19/Sep/13 Lead O/S
pie_eater_pete 06/Sep/13 Lead O/S
with bwestwood
richiebongo 12/Jul/13 Lead RP

Had top roped it in the 90's with Tunny and then took a fall near the top, got it next go.

Didymus 12/Jul/13 2nd dog

Tough escape route

with Rich
Stefan_Morris 06/Jul/13 Lead β
with jenny
Jen 'Banksy' Banks 06/Jul/13 2nd β
dan gibson 15/Jun/13 Lead O/S
with alice thompson
tim newton 15/Jun/13 Lead O/S
Alice Thompson 15/Jun/13 Lead β
Simon Allcock 30/May/13 2nd O/S
with Mary, Wilki
mes32 29/May/13 2nd
with Simon Allcock, Wilki
Hidden 26/May/13 Lead O/S
andyinglis 23/May/13 Lead O/S

Not sure if this is E4.... very well protected, just a building pump.

Russell Birkett 23/May/13 Lead O/S
Dangerous Dave 23/May/13 2nd rpt

Thought this was E3 5c when I led it felt much harder today!

miastacey 04/May/13 Lead O/S
with Bob Smith
shed_hed 30/Apr/13 2nd O/S
dswansonlow 30/Apr/13 Lead dog
Hidden ??/2013 Lead
Seymore Butt ??/2013 -
Hidden ??/2013 -
morganator 23/Sep/12 2nd
soph 23/Sep/12 Lead
with Ben Tibbetts, jon morgan
Ed morris 11/Sep/12 Lead O/S

Awesome route, very slippery moves, nervous about pigging off near the top.

with Andy
Hidden 04/Sep/12 Lead O/S
Ed Babs 04/Sep/12 2nd β

Good lead. What will he be capable of when he gets psyched? ; )

Dibdawg 01/Sep/12 Lead dog
Dean177 01/Sep/12 2nd RP
Bennykr 20/Aug/12 Lead O/S


Dean177 ?/Aug/12 2nd RP

After blowing it on the lead, i managed it on second, one to come back too.

Dean177 ?/Aug/12 Lead dnf
ksjs 22/Jul/12 2nd rpt
with owen
Ally Smith 07/Jul/12 Lead β

2nd'd Matt 2+ years ago

with Owen, Pete H
Matt Harle 12/Jun/12 Lead O/S
Tom Briggs - Jagged Globe 05/May/12 Lead O/S
with Andy Benson
zero six ?/May/12 Lead O/S

Lovely. Not any harder than Stroll On or Quasar(E3 6a), but without the 6a. E3 5c.

Owain Llewelyn 19/Apr/12 Lead O/S
with Gareth E
Hidden 21/Mar/12 Lead dnf
NickHarms ??/2012 -
Hidden ??/2012 -
AndrewJamesCherry ??/2012 2nd
Hidden ??/2012 -
jacobjacob 20/Nov/11 Lead O/S

Heather had a go and lowered off from halfway then I raced up it before it got dark. A rock 5 is now possibly in-situ just after the resting ledge...

Luke Brooks 03/Aug/11 2nd
with Steve
Jen Crook 31/Jul/11 2nd dog
Alistair Corbett 24/Jul/11 Lead O/S

First E4 and proudest lead to date!

with ben peake
AdrianP 30/Jun/11 Lead O/S
with Olli
centurion05 25/Jun/11 Lead rpt

awesome route.

HIGHTOWER 25/Jun/11 2nd
williamsd79 25/Jun/11 2nd dog
Dangerous Dave 01/Jun/11 Lead O/S

Good route but E3 5c

with Wild Beast
Tom Livingstone 01/Jun/11 Lead β
willoates 25/May/11 Lead rpt

On my own gear this time. felt harder even though i found the crimps this time.

with Dan Butler
dan ely 12/Apr/11 Lead dog

harder for short and if you have sausage fingers too then good luck. took a fall onto a half-in small insitu cam which held.

with greg kane, jason
barni 21/Mar/11 2nd rpt
Liam FLeming 21/Mar/11 Lead

clean hooray

with barni
ksjs 20/Feb/11 TR dog

cold, 2 rests

with Matt
Marti999 18/Feb/11 TR O/S
with Dave
Hidden ??/2011 -
Rory Shaw ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 -
petellis 16/Oct/10 Lead dog

So close! This went well till I barn-doored off the top crack after missing the holds out left. Nasty upside down fall with my leg behind the rope. Pretty sure if I'd seen the holds it would have been in the bag. Gutted. Thanks to the chaps who gave me a tope rope to finish it off!

Hidden 11/Oct/10 Lead O/S
mux 22/Aug/10 Lead O/S
with frost
frost 22/Aug/10 2nd β
with D Garry
gforce 18/Aug/10 Lead
with Kath
david morse 13/Jul/10 Lead rpt

first e4, got to go and onsight one now...

with owain
willoates 13/Jul/10 Lead β

lead it after david on his gear, although bi think i could have placed it my self, got to go back and find out now.

Hidden 07/Jul/10 2nd dog
geoff b 07/Jul/10 Lead
akhughes 23/Jun/10 2nd O/S
with Jonnie Stocking
Bristoldave 16/Jun/10 Lead O/S
with LukeW
samrad 10/Jun/10 Lead O/S

was really nice climbing on good holds. low E4/E3

with james G
farmus21 10/Jun/10 Lead RP

Used motly Sam's gear. Great climb. Glad to get it done. Much easier this time as I didn't try and layback the whole top section. Brilliant!

with Sam Radcliffe
London Luke ?/Jun/10 2nd O/S
harvie 31/May/10 Lead
morganator 28/May/10 Lead O/S
with Ross Hewitt, Andy Houseman
RachelP 20/May/10 2nd
with Geth, Jamie
barni 17/May/10 2nd rpt
with luke, Sam
Luke Brooks 17/May/10 Lead O/S
with Barni
Hidden 15/May/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 12/May/10 Lead dog
geoff b 12/May/10 Lead
mattyork2 03/May/10 TR

Pleased to get up this as a warm up - thought it would be despearte to repeat - can't be going that bad then Matt!

with John Vincent
Hidden ?/May/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 07/Feb/10 Lead rpt
vinspin ??/2010 2nd dnf
with owen jones
Jus 24/Sep/09 Lead O/S
billb ?/Sep/09 Lead O/S
with Jus
Liam FLeming 05/Aug/09 2nd
with glyn
Glyn 24/Jul/09 Lead O/S
Ows ?/Jul/09 2nd
benchwarmer 10/Apr/09 2nd dog
nige 10/Apr/09 Lead O/S
with ewan mccallum
barni 05/Apr/09 Lead rpt
with Ewan
Mike Goldthorp 24/Mar/09 Lead O/S
with Ben Alsford
lukehunt 27/Feb/09 Lead O/S
with Tom Ripley
hans solo ?/Jan/09 -
stevebarratt ??/2009 Lead O/S
mattyork2 14/Dec/08 Lead O/S

A great last trad route to seal up the year. Fantastic, somewhat technical climbing I thought. 600th route! A really nice day out too.

with Ally Smith and Emily Goodman
Ally Smith 14/Dec/08 2nd
lukea 27/Oct/08 Lead dnf

rained off / wimped off upper crack.

with felix
Brown 13/Sep/08 Lead β

Previously 2nded on 13.05.08

with Henry
centurion05 25/Jul/08 Lead O/S
with woody
Hidden 21/Jul/08 Lead dog
Sgt. Vest 06/Jun/08 Lead O/S
Hidden 06/Jun/08 2nd O/S
Hidden 06/Jun/08 Lead O/S
kieranrex 19/May/08 Lead O/S
barni 22/Apr/08 Lead
with Si
Hidden ?/Feb/08 Lead
mr mills ?/Feb/08 Lead rpt

good gear, classic crack climb.

with ioan d
jeffmcd56 ??/2008 Lead β
with Rob
Ram MkiV 09/Sep/07 Lead O/S
with reeve
Alex Mason 04/Sep/07 Lead O/S

awesome route, comes at you at just when you think you cant go any further theres huge jugs out on the wall!! tricky moves leaving the ledge.

Hidden 27/Aug/07 TR dog
Morgan Woods 26/Aug/07 Lead O/S

First E4! Not as gnarly as i expected and there is a decent rest on the top bit to put in gear.

with Gareth
IOAN D 19/Jun/07 Lead O/S


with gareth
ksjs 03/Jun/07 Lead O/S

that was an effort! totally brilliant, bit of an arm-melter peering into the crack to place gear (friends a definite advantage here but you can get great large nuts in). loved the bit where i wanted to stop but couldnt as that would have meant a fall so i had no choice but to continue :) perfect trad!

Toby Dunn 21/Apr/07 Lead O/S
with Joe Bawden
Dringo ??/2007 -
fran04 ??/2007 TR

doable first section then it gets hard well hard!

with ian rowell
Hidden ?/Jun/06 -
lx ?/May/06 Lead O/S


Hidden ??/2006 -
Ian McNeill ??/2006 -
Ian McNeill ??/2006 -
nicholas Barrowclough 07/Jul/04 2nd

Easiest E4 slate tick around

with Mark
Gus 20/Jun/04 Lead O/S
mark s ??/2004 Lead O/S
with andi
spidey 14/Aug/03 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2003 Lead RP
Mark Riley ?/Sep/00 TR O/S
Tim M ??/2000 Lead O/S
The Jazz Butcher ??/1999 Lead O/S
ste_d 12/Apr/98 2nd O/S
with mik
nokishatov 12/Apr/98 Lead
Si Clapham ??/1998 2nd

slip slip slippy

with Alun Richardson
D Tempest 24/May/97 2nd
with Rick
jfletcher 12/Apr/97 Lead O/S
FATBOYFAT ??/1997 Lead O/S
with Joe Mahoney
Ched ??/1997 TR
Hidden 22/Jul/96 Lead RP
Hidden 28/Apr/96 Lead O/S
goi.ashmore 15/Jun/95 Lead O/S

Totally overgraded.

with Matt Hirst
Dave Musgrove Jnr 03/Apr/95 2nd
with Martin Reynard
mattnuttall ?/Jan/95 Lead O/S

photo somewhere

with Alan Holden
adi bryant ?/Jun/94 Lead O/S
with Ollie
crossleysm ??/1994 Lead O/S
duncan ??/1994 Lead O/S

Date is approximate

with Dave Wills
mark-abz 21/Aug/93 TR
with Simon K
jamiev 30/Mar/93 2nd dog
with Adrian Berry
Rich Kirby 01/Sep/92 2nd O/S
channinga ??/1992 -
Hidden 16/Jul/91 2nd
Steve Crowe 26/May/91 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/Aug/90 Lead O/S
Billg 28/Apr/90 Lead O/S
with Jon Barton
Hidden 08/Aug/89 AltLd
Mike Owen 03/Jul/88 Lead O/S
with Elaine Owen
Hidden ??/1988 2nd
Bruce Kerr 14/Aug/87 Lead
with Andrew Jackson
sadams 11/Jul/87 Lead O/S
with Guy Townsend
Paul Clarke ??/1987 2nd
with Paul Greenland
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High E5
Mid E5
Low E5
High E4
Mid E4
Low E4
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
Votes cast 50
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
Votes cast 50
Votes cast 51
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Ground Up
Not Set