UKC

Restricted Access

Officially there is no access permitted away from the PROW or bridleways. 

Access to climb Trango Towers/Peppermint Pig areas is sensitive as it lies within the inner perimeter of the power station - climbers are occassionally asked to leave this area by security staff. Access to Rainbow slabs and surrounding areas is only possible from the Llanberis side but access from Nant Peris (Pass side) is striclty not allowed.

This area includes all of the lower part of Dinorwig Slate quarry, including Rainbow slab area, and the levels opposite (Rainbow Walls). The Lower Dinorwic quarries are all on land owned by  First Hydro Company (FHC). FHC have to comply with the Mines and Quarries Act. This means providing a properly maintained barrier to prevent members of the public from falling into the quarries. The company are repairing fencing in the area and employing additional signage to emphasise the dangerous nature of the quarries. There is no formal permission to climb or walk in the quarries away from the public footpaths and if the secutiry staff carrying out routine patrols,  see any members of the public (including climbers) away from the public rights of way they will be asked to leave. Please follow their instructions and do not create conflict if this is the case.  Please respect the environment of the quarries, do not damage any fences, keep dogs under control and take all litter home with you. In order to protect the current sensitive access, climbers have agreed not to climb on any of the levels below the Rainbow level or on the large tower overlooking the power station buildings.

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 April to 30 June

Reason: Nesting Birds

Rainbow Slab Area - Nesting Birds

Peregrines are nesting in the area betwen Colossus Wall and the Main Rainbow Slab area. These are legally protected birds and it's a criminal offence to intentionally or recklessely disturb these  birds at at time. 

A new seasonal restriction applies to all the routes between and including "OM 69 Runner Bean" and "Naked Before the Beast" - this includes the popular  routes "Red and Yellow and pink, etc." and "Pull My Daisy".

Also when walking past to the main Rainbow Slab Area, please do not loiter or hang around beneath these routes. 

The extent of this restriction will be reviewed in late April/early May and may need to be extended. 

22m.

Rockfax Description
A worthwhile but serious outing. Start on the front of the pillar. Climb up to the huge ledge and follow a crack to a large block on the left. Step right to a groove and climb this to a ledge on the left. Swing up right to a triangular ledge. Move up to a sloping ledge with difficulty and then walk off left to finish. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
Start 5m left of 'Silver Shadow' on the fron of the pillar. Climb to the ledge and then follow the crack to a big block on left. Climb a groove on right to a ledge on left then move up and right to another ledge (triangular) then the crux ledge (sloper) on left to finish left.

C Waddy, D Crilley Jun/1987.

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Route of Interest
The Illusionist

Grade: E4 6a ***
(Clogwyn yr Eryr (Crafnant))

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