25m.

Rockfax Description
The dogleg crack up the steep wall has become a lot harder since the mid-way pillar fell down, but it is now a better route. Move leftwards up the crack to where it bends. Pull straight into the upper crack. Climb this to its end, then the steep wall to the lower-off. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
Climb the slanting crack to the spike on left. Move right into the crack via good runner to the top. Either lower off or climb the 6a crack to the next level. bolt added on headwall.

R Lyon, A Wells, M Cluer 16/May/1986

Ticklists

North Wales Rock Graded List, Bangor BUMS Uni-Life Ticklist, The best the UK has to offer for beasts (apart from the lakes cos its always wet), Slate 2018/2019, Wales Ticklist

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Logged Ascents

UserDateStyleNotes & Partners
Hidden 26 May Lead O/S
Dohnny_Jawes 26 May Lead dog Lead with the gear pre-placed. Slanting start crack is pumpy.
Lead with the gear pre-placed. Slanting start crack is pumpy.
Hidden 15 May Lead G/U
Dan Hale 6 May Lead G/U Foot popped unexpectedly about 2m up. Lowered to ground and sent it. Felt like an onsite still. The flake is worrying and I think is probably worse than before after a few cold winters.
with Andy Finney
Foot popped unexpectedly about 2m up. Lowered to ground and sent it. Felt like an onsite still. The flake is worrying and I think is probably worse than before after a few cold winters.
with Andy Finney
Felix la shat 5 May Lead RP Top is a bit grim
Top is a bit grim
Alex hall 22 Mar Lead O/S Make sure your belayer is wearing a helmet as the rock is a bit snappy. Also would it make more sense to finish the route at the bolt height being the end of the flake, and avoiding the ankle snapping ledge? Beside that good route!
Make sure your belayer is wearing a helmet as the rock is a bit snappy. Also would it make more sense to finish the route at the bolt height being the end of the flake, and avoiding the ankle snapping ledge? Beside that good route!
Andy Moles 20 Mar Lead Pokey start then steady as far as the finishing move. Middle section feels a little spooky where the flake is thin, wouldn't fancy fall-testing a cam in it.
with ferdia
Pokey start then steady as far as the finishing move. Middle section feels a little spooky where the flake is thin, wouldn't fancy fall-testing a cam in it.
with ferdia
ferdia 20 Mar 2nd
Archie ball ?? -
WilliamRupp 20 Nov, 2018 Lead G/U
NBaggaley 19 Oct, 2018 TR dog
Hidden 7 Oct, 2018 Lead O/S
JamesWilliams 23 Apr, 2018 Lead rpt 3rd go today fannied about on the lower crag twice then committed to a better sequence . Was feeling a bit wobbly on this today. Just an off day. Was worried I was gunna snap the flake. Pumpy. Tom dislocated his shoulder seconding
with Butel
3rd go today fannied about on the lower crag twice then committed to a better sequence . Was feeling a bit wobbly on this today. Just an off day. Was worried I was gunna snap the flake. Pumpy. Tom dislocated his shoulder seconding
with Butel
nai 29 Jul, 2017 Lead O/S
with 205Chris
with 205Chris
andyinglis 8 Jun, 2017 Lead O/S
Hidden 8 Jun, 2017 2nd O/S
Hidden 4 Apr, 2017 2nd dog
Sadie ?Mar, 2017 Lead O/S Techy last move!
with Lindy Smith
Techy last move!
with Lindy Smith
Flavio 18 Dec, 2016 Lead O/S
JendeHoxar 17 Dec, 2016 2nd O/S
with Flavio
with Flavio
JamesWilliams 4 Dec, 2016 Lead dog Couple of up and downs to sort the first crack then. Came off just below the big ledge. Then found the top out really hard till i found a bit of an edge among the slopers! Running up to cloggy the day before didn't help with the leg pump
with Minter
Couple of up and downs to sort the first crack then. Came off just below the big ledge. Then found the top out really hard till i found a bit of an edge among the slopers! Running up to cloggy the day before didn't help with the leg pump
with Minter
deacondeacon 27 Aug, 2016 Lead O/S Safe and 'ard. Not a proper Onsight as I had andys gear in the first crack from his go. It's not over till it's over.
Safe and 'ard. Not a proper Onsight as I had andys gear in the first crack from his go. It's not over till it's over.
Andy Peak 1 27 Aug, 2016 Lead dnf Did the crux and then fell of a easy move standing up into the crux proper
Did the crux and then fell of a easy move standing up into the crux proper
JRJones 14 Aug, 2016 2nd O/S Felt like pretty easy going at E4, might go back and lead Could hear the water running down the back of the crack, with amused me.
Felt like pretty easy going at E4, might go back and lead Could hear the water running down the back of the crack, with amused me.
Tom McCabe 14 Aug, 2016 Lead O/S Hard start, easy upper crack, slightly spoilt by the thuggy last move. Good, low in the grade.
with JRJones
Hard start, easy upper crack, slightly spoilt by the thuggy last move. Good, low in the grade.
with JRJones
alastairbegley 11 Jun, 2016 2nd O/S Nice route, tough start and end with an enjoyable layback in the middle
Nice route, tough start and end with an enjoyable layback in the middle
Nick Russell 11 Jun, 2016 Lead O/S Great route. Stiff start (the 'E4' bit?) followed by a beautiful flake crack and a boulder problem top (possibly 6a?). Loss of the ledge at the kink in the crack can't have made much difference, it's possible to shake out just about anywhere up the flake.
Great route. Stiff start (the 'E4' bit?) followed by a beautiful flake crack and a boulder problem top (possibly 6a?). Loss of the ledge at the kink in the crack can't have made much difference, it's possible to shake out just about anywhere up the flake.
robpartridge 31 May, 2016 Lead rpt
with Helen
with Helen
mynyddresident 26 May, 2016 Lead β I'd started up this years ago and down climbed. Would like to have claimed the onsight but had a bit of info regarding the finish. Otherwise it was a nice surprise having done jack all trad this season. The finish was unexpected.
with helen
I'd started up this years ago and down climbed. Would like to have claimed the onsight but had a bit of info regarding the finish. Otherwise it was a nice surprise having done jack all trad this season. The finish was unexpected.
with helen
jsmcfarland 15 May, 2016 Lead dog Waaay harder than the grade suggests IMHO. The crack section was fairly easy though gear is a little fiddly as the flake opens up at the back. Bottom and top sections are both nails. Yuck.
Waaay harder than the grade suggests IMHO. The crack section was fairly easy though gear is a little fiddly as the flake opens up at the back. Bottom and top sections are both nails. Yuck.
Nafclimbsrocks 14 May, 2016 2nd O/S Was very, very surprised that I managed to sneak in my first E4 on a crack climbing route! Totally pumped but there are some good rest on the route.
with Will (LC&CC)
Was very, very surprised that I managed to sneak in my first E4 on a crack climbing route! Totally pumped but there are some good rest on the route.
with Will (LC&CC)
shed_hed 19 Apr, 2016 Lead dog Pulled on gear to get past the second half of the first crack then clean to the top.
with Helen Wise
Pulled on gear to get past the second half of the first crack then clean to the top.
with Helen Wise
Hidden 25 Mar, 2016 2nd β
Adam Lincoln 25 Mar, 2016 Lead O/S
with Tyler
with Tyler
Hidden ??, 2016 -
Dan Vaj 25 Oct, 2015 2nd RP
with James McHaffie
with James McHaffie
redjerry 5 Sep, 2015 Lead β
with matt thompson
with matt thompson
Natalie Berry - UKC 6 Jul, 2015 2nd O/S
with Lucy Creamer
with Lucy Creamer
Ewan Russell 14 Mar, 2015 Lead O/S
with Brad
with Brad
breed 14 Mar, 2015 Lead G/U Got it second go after some of the flake came off in my hand first go.
Got it second go after some of the flake came off in my hand first go.
Hidden 16 Nov, 2014 Lead O/S
mr mills 3 Jul, 2014 Lead O/S
with alun hughes
with alun hughes
Leo Woodhead 29 Jun, 2014 Lead β Really nice climb with 3 distinct sections. The final moves felt desperate but they were so much fun!
with Jim Rogers
Really nice climb with 3 distinct sections. The final moves felt desperate but they were so much fun!
with Jim Rogers
Misha 28 Jun, 2014 Lead dog
with Dave R, Ian W
with Dave R, Ian W
Ed morris 23 Jun, 2014 Lead O/S Felt like E3. Must be fitter than i thought, tricky top move.
with stefan
Felt like E3. Must be fitter than i thought, tricky top move.
with stefan
Nick Sillem 3 May, 2014 Lead O/S
Stefan_Morris 14 Sep, 2013 Lead β
tim newton 16 Aug, 2013 Lead O/S
with Lenny
with Lenny
shed_hed 18 Jun, 2013 Lead β Belayed Dougie then led it. Felt desperate; more like 4 separate boulder problems between good rests. Did not climb it well and was snatching my way up it. Harder than the Mau Mau I reckon. I'm not sure if the midges made the climbing harder or actually encouraged me to keep going up in an attempt escape them...
Belayed Dougie then led it. Felt desperate; more like 4 separate boulder problems between good rests. Did not climb it well and was snatching my way up it. Harder than the Mau Mau I reckon. I'm not sure if the midges made the climbing harder or actually encouraged me to keep going up in an attempt escape them...
dswansonlow 18 Jun, 2013 Lead O/S I feel I deserve another couple of E grades to account for the midges... Guh.. The route was nice but I needed to up and down climb the first bit till I got it. The end was weird but okay once you get up.
I feel I deserve another couple of E grades to account for the midges... Guh.. The route was nice but I needed to up and down climb the first bit till I got it. The end was weird but okay once you get up.
dan gibson 15 Jun, 2013 Lead O/S
with alice thompson
with alice thompson
Alice Thompson 15 Jun, 2013 Lead O/S
JulesV 1 Jun, 2013 Lead O/S
AndrewJamesCherry ??, 2013 Lead β Had a fantastic time leading this on Stefan's gear and the blew it all on the very last hold! I guess I just assumed it would be a massive jug.... idiot!
Had a fantastic time leading this on Stefan's gear and the blew it all on the very last hold! I guess I just assumed it would be a massive jug.... idiot!
Stefan_Morris ??, 2013 Lead
Alex Mason 21 Aug, 2012 Lead O/S Tricky start leads to an awesome layback flake.
with Bennykr
Tricky start leads to an awesome layback flake.
with Bennykr
Bennykr 20 Aug, 2012 2nd O/S really good climbing
really good climbing
Hidden 30 Jul, 2012 Lead O/S
AdrianP 29 Jun, 2011 Lead rpt Slipped off a wet hold after placing the second runner. Pulled the rope and led it. Try clipping the anchor while holding onto the slopey arete.
with Olli
Slipped off a wet hold after placing the second runner. Pulled the rope and led it. Try clipping the anchor while holding onto the slopey arete.
with Olli
adam06 3 Jun, 2011 2nd start is defo 6a.. then get easier, but still tiring lay-backing!
with spidey
start is defo 6a.. then get easier, but still tiring lay-backing!
with spidey
spidey 3 Jun, 2011 Lead
with adam
with adam
eddy-on-the-rocks 14 Apr, 2011 Lead O/S Easy E4 - The flake is a little concerning especially with the big pile of rubble at the bottom.
with Rich
Easy E4 - The flake is a little concerning especially with the big pile of rubble at the bottom.
with Rich
Hidden ??, 2011 -
Hidden ??, 2011 -
samrad 7 Jun, 2010 Lead β climbed just after it stopped raining. scary top few moves to lower-off. glad of the bolt. prob only E4 with the bolt, as the pro was good on the rest of the climb.
with james G
climbed just after it stopped raining. scary top few moves to lower-off. glad of the bolt. prob only E4 with the bolt, as the pro was good on the rest of the climb.
with james G
barni 17 May, 2010 Lead
with Luke Brooks, Sam
with Luke Brooks, Sam
Luke Brooks 17 May, 2010 2nd
with barni
with barni
ksjs 15 Apr, 2010 Lead dnf foot slipped during initial section but backed off at jugs, didnt like feel / look of top part and sun just coming onto route so v tough to peer into and place gear; lack of confidence was reason for foot slip: 3rd day or trad this yr and 1st on slate, just not prepared for standing on slate edges. upper section probably fine but the rock does flex under load i.e. with gear!
with rob
foot slipped during initial section but backed off at jugs, didnt like feel / look of top part and sun just coming onto route so v tough to peer into and place gear; lack of confidence was reason for foot slip: 3rd day or trad this yr and 1st on slate, just not prepared for standing on slate edges. upper section probably fine but the rock does flex under load i.e. with gear!
with rob
Dringo ??, 2007 -
Hidden ??, 2006 -
Steve Crowe 30 Aug, 1993 Lead O/S
Mike Owen 3 Jul, 1988 Lead O/S
with Elaine Owen
with Elaine Owen
Hidden 2 Aug, 1986 Lead
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Voting
High E5
Mid E5
Low E5
High E4
Mid E4
Low E4
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
Votes cast 15
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
Votes cast 15
Votes cast 18
Style of ascent
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Not Set
Onsighted
Flashed (β)
Dogged
Ground Up
Repeated
DNF
Redpoint
Not Set