25m. Climb the slanting crack to the spike on left. Move right into the crack via good runner to the top. Either lower off or climb the 6a crack to the next level. bolt added on headwall.

R Lyon, A Wells, M Cluer 16/May/1986

Ticklists: North Wales Rock Graded List, Bangor BUMS Uni-Life Ticklist, The best the UK has to offer for beasts (apart from the lakes cos its always wet).

nai 29/Jul Lead O/S
with 205Chris
andyinglis 08/Jun Lead O/S
Hidden 08/Jun 2nd O/S
Hidden 04/Apr 2nd dog
Sadie ?/Mar Lead O/S

Techy last move!

with Lindy Smith
Flavio 18/Dec/16 Lead O/S
JendeHoxar 17/Dec/16 2nd O/S
with Flavio
JamesWilliams 04/Dec/16 Lead dog

Couple of up and downs to sort the first crack then. Came off just below the big ledge. Then found the top out really hard till i found a bit of an edge among the slopers! Running up to cloggy the day before didn't help with the leg pump

deacondeacon 27/Aug/16 Lead O/S

Safe and 'ard. Not a proper Onsight as I had andys gear in the first crack from his go. It's not over till it's over.

Andy Peak 1 27/Aug/16 Lead dnf

Did the crux and then fell of a easy move standing up into the crux proper

JRJones 14/Aug/16 2nd O/S

Felt like pretty easy going at E4, might go back and lead Could hear the water running down the back of the crack, with amused me.

Tom McCabe 14/Aug/16 Lead O/S

Hard start, easy upper crack, slightly spoilt by the thuggy last move. Good, low in the grade.

alastairbegley 11/Jun/16 2nd O/S

Nice route, tough start and end with an enjoyable layback in the middle

Nick Russell 11/Jun/16 Lead O/S

Great route. Stiff start (the 'E4' bit?) followed by a beautiful flake crack and a boulder problem top (possibly 6a?). Loss of the ledge at the kink in the crack can't have made much difference, it's possible to shake out just about anywhere up the flake.

robpartridge 31/May/16 Lead rpt
with Helen
mynyddresident 26/May/16 Lead β

I'd started up this years ago and down climbed. Would like to have claimed the onsight but had a bit of info regarding the finish. Otherwise it was a nice surprise having done jack all trad this season. The finish was unexpected.

with helen
jsmcfarland 15/May/16 Lead dog

Waaay harder than the grade suggests IMHO. The crack section was fairly easy though gear is a little fiddly as the flake opens up at the back. Bottom and top sections are both nails. Yuck.

Nafclimbsrocks 14/May/16 2nd O/S

Was very, very surprised that I managed to sneak in my first E4 on a crack climbing route! Totally pumped but there are some good rest on the route.

with Will (LC&CC)
shed_hed 19/Apr/16 Lead dog

Pulled on gear to get past the second half of the first crack then clean to the top.

with Helen Wise
Hidden 25/Mar/16 2nd β
Adam Lincoln 25/Mar/16 Lead O/S
with Ash
Hidden ??/2016 -
Dan Vaj 25/Oct/15 2nd RP
with James McHaffie
redjerry 05/Sep/15 Lead β
with matt thompson
Natalie Berry - UKC 06/Jul/15 2nd O/S
with Lucy Creamer
Ewan Russell 14/Mar/15 Lead O/S
with Brad
breed 14/Mar/15 Lead G/U

Got it second go after some of the flake came off in my hand first go.

Hidden 16/Nov/14 Lead O/S
mr mills 03/Jul/14 Lead O/S
with alun hughes
Leo Woodhead 29/Jun/14 Lead β

Really nice climb with 3 distinct sections. The final moves felt desperate but they were so much fun!

with Jim Rogers
Misha 28/Jun/14 Lead dog
with Dave R, Ian W
Ed morris 23/Jun/14 Lead O/S

Felt like E3. Must be fitter than i thought, tricky top move.

with stefan
Nick Sillem 03/May/14 Lead O/S
Stefan_Morris 14/Sep/13 Lead β
tim newton 16/Aug/13 Lead O/S
with leon
shed_hed 18/Jun/13 Lead β

Belayed Dougie then led it. Felt desperate; more like 4 separate boulder problems between good rests. Did not climb it well and was snatching my way up it. Harder than the Mau Mau I reckon. I'm not sure if the midges made the climbing harder or actually encouraged me to keep going up in an attempt escape them...

dswansonlow 18/Jun/13 Lead O/S

I feel I deserve another couple of E grades to account for the midges... Guh.. The route was nice but I needed to up and down climb the first bit till I got it. The end was weird but okay once you get up.

dan gibson 15/Jun/13 Lead O/S
with alice thompson
Alice Thompson 15/Jun/13 Lead O/S
JulesV 01/Jun/13 Lead O/S
AndrewJamesCherry ??/2013 Lead β

Had a fantastic time leading this on Stefan's gear and the blew it all on the very last hold! I guess I just assumed it would be a massive jug.... idiot!

Stefan_Morris ??/2013 Lead
with Andy
Alex Mason 21/Aug/12 Lead O/S

Tricky start leads to an awesome layback flake.

with Ben R
Bennykr 20/Aug/12 2nd O/S

really good climbing

Hidden 30/Jul/12 Lead O/S
AdrianP 29/Jun/11 Lead rpt

Slipped off a wet hold after placing the second runner. Pulled the rope and led it. Try clipping the anchor while holding onto the slopey arete.

with Olli
adam06 03/Jun/11 2nd

start is defo 6a.. then get easier, but still tiring lay-backing!

with Ryan
spidey 03/Jun/11 Lead
with adam
eddy-on-the-rocks 14/Apr/11 Lead O/S

Easy E4 - The flake is a little concerning especially with the big pile of rubble at the bottom.

with Rich
Hidden ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 -
samrad 07/Jun/10 Lead β

climbed just after it stopped raining. scary top few moves to lower-off. glad of the bolt. prob only E4 with the bolt, as the pro was good on the rest of the climb.

with james G
barni 17/May/10 Lead
with luke, Sam
Luke Brooks 17/May/10 2nd
with Barni
ksjs 15/Apr/10 Lead dnf

foot slipped during initial section but backed off at jugs, didnt like feel / look of top part and sun just coming onto route so v tough to peer into and place gear; lack of confidence was reason for foot slip: 3rd day or trad this yr and 1st on slate, just not prepared for standing on slate edges. upper section probably fine but the rock does flex under load i.e. with gear!

with rob
Dringo ??/2007 -
Hidden ??/2006 -
Steve Crowe 30/Aug/93 Lead O/S
Mike Owen 03/Jul/88 Lead O/S
with Elaine Owen
jon 02/Aug/86 Lead
with H
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High E5
Mid E5
Low E5
High E4
Mid E4
Low E4
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
Votes cast 11
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
Votes cast 11
Votes cast 14
Style of ascent
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Ground Up
Not Set