Rockfax Description
The amazing arete gives a magnificent pitch for which the word 'exposed' is nowhere near descriptive enough. Start right of Shrike, just right of an arete, by a flake/crack that leads to an overhang. Climb the flake/crack up to the roof and make a hard pull over this. Swing leftwards to a flake, then climb up the thin flake and wall to the arete above. Follow the arete to a good spike on the right, move up and regain the true arete again by the overhang. This leads fairly directly all the way to the top. Sensational! © Rockfax

Ticklists

North Wales Rock Graded List, Good E4s, ROCKFAX Style Top 50: North Wales, MIA logbook must haves!, CLIMB Mag's Top 100 routes in Britain, ROCKFAX - Top 50 North Wales Climbs, Alex's Wales ticklist, Bangor BUMS Uni-Life Ticklist, Ultimate E4 ticklist, Bill's 2016 Sweepstake 20, The best the UK has to offer for beasts (apart from the lakes cos its always wet), Caelan visits, Wales Ticklist, Showcase Britain & Ireland

Feedback

There is no feedback for this climb.

Login as Existing User to add your feedback

Logged Ascents

User Date Style Notes & Partners
M_Robinson 26 Aug Lead O/S
felixwilkins 26 Aug 2nd
Wil Treasure 29 Jun Lead dog Stupidly didn't do a warm up and got boxed above the roof! Great route.
Stupidly didn't do a warm up and got boxed above the roof! Great route.
rachelpearce01 29 Jun 2nd
George_Surf 29 Jun Lead O/S Epic! Really wild climbing and safe once you get going. Guide unclear; start under the right hand crack that splits the roof, pass the roof go up for a few metres and then go left. Never too hard but theres loads of climbing and the start feels a bit bold. Hot, tired, no food/water for 7hrs...
Epic! Really wild climbing and safe once you get going. Guide unclear; start under the right hand crack that splits the roof, pass the roof go up for a few metres and then go left. Never too hard but theres loads of climbing and the start feels a bit bold. Hot, tired, no food/water for 7hrs...
Dan Hale 28 Jun Lead O/S
Owen Davies 22 Jun Lead O/S totally absorbing, both mentally and physically. nearly fluffed it a couple of times. the first time I've ever cried at the top of a route. I wanted it so bad. total ecstasy.
totally absorbing, both mentally and physically. nearly fluffed it a couple of times. the first time I've ever cried at the top of a route. I wanted it so bad. total ecstasy.
Hidden 15 May -
simon cox 18 Mar -
simon cox 18 Mar -
simon cox ?? -
simon cox ?? -
simon cox ?? -
mshorter 8 Jul, 2018 Lead O/S
with ged
with ged
Boy 7 Jul, 2018 Lead
with Jon Coe
with Jon Coe
ian bryant 2 Jul, 2018 Lead O/S
Theo Moore - UKC and UKH 1 Jul, 2018 Lead O/S Phwoar. Got a third of the way up and realised I had 5 quickdraws, some nuts and a couple of big cams. Kept climbing and placing rubbish gear in good placements. Having consolidated all my nuts on to one rack for extra biners and started clipping wires with screwgates I now had terrible gear next to me with my next decent bit was a micro wire 8 metres below. I climbed the wrong way in desperation and spent ages unable to go up, sideways or reverse. Eventually I managed to reverse and commit to entering a slopey groove. Once fully committed I was shitting it as I couldn't hold the position and couldn't reverse. Fortunately I pushed on and got stood up on an undercut. Serendipitously Deacon and Graeme turned up at the top and when I arrived at the a cheval rest they lowered down another rack which I promptly shoved in every placement I could find. Amazing.
Phwoar. Got a third of the way up and realised I had 5 quickdraws, some nuts and a couple of big cams. Kept climbing and placing rubbish gear in good placements. Having consolidated all my nuts on to one rack for extra biners and started clipping wires with screwgates I now had terrible gear next to me with my next decent bit was a micro wire 8 metres below. I climbed the wrong way in desperation and spent ages unable to go up, sideways or reverse. Eventually I managed to reverse and commit to entering a slopey groove. Once fully committed I was shitting it as I couldn't hold the position and couldn't reverse. Fortunately I pushed on and got stood up on an undercut. Serendipitously Deacon and Graeme turned up at the top and when I arrived at the a cheval rest they lowered down another rack which I promptly shoved in every placement I could find. Amazing.
Flavio 1 Jul, 2018 Lead O/S Found no real 6a moves, maybe climbing in Yorkshire/Lakes too much. Good to like, literally get back on the horse, like.
Found no real 6a moves, maybe climbing in Yorkshire/Lakes too much. Good to like, literally get back on the horse, like.
JendeHoxar 1 Jul, 2018 2nd O/S
with Flavio
with Flavio
Andy Peak 1 1 Jul, 2018 2nd What a place! Was going to lead after Theo but time passed and I was cold, so happy to second this amazing climb, the end to a stunning weekend at cloggy
What a place! Was going to lead after Theo but time passed and I was cold, so happy to second this amazing climb, the end to a stunning weekend at cloggy
MikePycroft 28 Jun, 2018 Lead dnf Fell off at overhang backed off on insitue cam
Fell off at overhang backed off on insitue cam
benkelsey 24 Jun, 2018 Lead O/S Thought this didn't live up to the hype, but maybe I was just in the wrong mindset. Bottom bold and dirty, middle creaky and by the time the gear finally got good I was quite drained. Climbing not too hard or pumpy, just awkward. Did enjoy the sit down banter rest near the top. Very sunburnt - sacked off great wall and went for an extended swim in the lake - need a rest day or six.
Thought this didn't live up to the hype, but maybe I was just in the wrong mindset. Bottom bold and dirty, middle creaky and by the time the gear finally got good I was quite drained. Climbing not too hard or pumpy, just awkward. Did enjoy the sit down banter rest near the top. Very sunburnt - sacked off great wall and went for an extended swim in the lake - need a rest day or six.
Jwatson 9 Jun, 2018 Lead G/U Pretty hard start then just awesome. Worth reading guidebook description for a good idea of where to go at the start
Pretty hard start then just awesome. Worth reading guidebook description for a good idea of where to go at the start
Hidden 4 Jun, 2018 2nd β
Hidden 4 Jun, 2018 Lead O/S
Hidden 15 May, 2018 Lead O/S
Tom Livingstone 15 May, 2018 2nd dog At first it was just dirty, cloudy and drizzling... then it started raining!
At first it was just dirty, cloudy and drizzling... then it started raining!
Stephen Horne - Rockfax 15 Jul, 2017 Lead O/S
with Howard Lawledge
with Howard Lawledge
The Grist 20 Jun, 2017 Lead O/S Outstanding. Loved this route.
Outstanding. Loved this route.
Tom Livingstone 19 Jun, 2017 Lead O/S
Hidden 19 Jun, 2017 2nd rpt
Billg 16 Aug, 2016 Lead O/S What a brilliant route. More of a head game than hard. The lack of gear over the first roof was a nasty surprise, A fitting climax to one of the best 4 days climbing I've ever done
with Will Calvert
What a brilliant route. More of a head game than hard. The lack of gear over the first roof was a nasty surprise, A fitting climax to one of the best 4 days climbing I've ever done
with Will Calvert
Hidden 19 Jul, 2016 Lead O/S
RebekahD 19 Jul, 2016 Lead Fell off a really easy bit because of a stupid mistake. Gutting! Pretty surprised the gear behind the hollow flakes held... One of the perks of being small!
with Calum
Fell off a really easy bit because of a stupid mistake. Gutting! Pretty surprised the gear behind the hollow flakes held... One of the perks of being small!
with Calum
breed 3 Oct, 2015 Lead O/S
Ewan Russell 3 Oct, 2015 2nd rpt
with Brad
with Brad
harry_lewis 3 Oct, 2015 Lead G/U Great route with outrageous exposure (even when done in a cloud). Bit of a shame to fluff the onsight, managed to slip off the easy moves at the start
Great route with outrageous exposure (even when done in a cloud). Bit of a shame to fluff the onsight, managed to slip off the easy moves at the start
soph 17 Aug, 2015 2nd rpt Pretty dark- fun times feeling around for handholds!
with Pablo Martin
Pretty dark- fun times feeling around for handholds!
with Pablo Martin
Keith Sharples 3 Jul, 2015 2nd Worryingly loose flakes IMO!?
Worryingly loose flakes IMO!?
Hidden 13 Sep, 2014 Lead O/S
Hidden 22 Jul, 2014 AltLd O/S
Uisdean hawthorn 22 Jul, 2014 AltLd O/S
AdrianP 1 Jul, 2014 Lead O/S Fantastic
Fantastic
Ed Babs 30 Jun, 2014 Lead O/S In the morning sun. Chuffed to make it - I was pretty pumped at half way.
with AlexD
In the morning sun. Chuffed to make it - I was pretty pumped at half way.
with AlexD
Duncan Campbell 30 Jun, 2014 Lead O/S Amazing. Was really intimidated before getting on this which made the tick even better. Crux is probably the roof, but above this difficulty is sustained and the very hollow nature of the flakes holds your interest as you place gear behind them! Brilliant technical climbing that is a little pumpy and pretty spicy. Very happy to have done this.
Amazing. Was really intimidated before getting on this which made the tick even better. Crux is probably the roof, but above this difficulty is sustained and the very hollow nature of the flakes holds your interest as you place gear behind them! Brilliant technical climbing that is a little pumpy and pretty spicy. Very happy to have done this.
AlexD 30 Jun, 2014 2nd Epic!
with Ed Babs
Epic!
with Ed Babs
Hidden 23 Jun, 2014 Lead O/S
Steve Crowe 23 Jun, 2014 2nd rpt So good we did it twice!
with karin
So good we did it twice!
with karin
Ed Booth 23 Jun, 2014 2nd Couldn't see the hype myself. Only good thing is that it's a big overhanging arĂȘte in an exposed position but didn't think the climbing was overly amazing and seemed like all the gear was expanding flakes and holds that could ping off. Reckon the 3rd E1 pitch of The Grooves on Cyrn Las is better value.
with anguskille, Nick Dixon
Couldn't see the hype myself. Only good thing is that it's a big overhanging arĂȘte in an exposed position but didn't think the climbing was overly amazing and seemed like all the gear was expanding flakes and holds that could ping off. Reckon the 3rd E1 pitch of The Grooves on Cyrn Las is better value.
with anguskille, Nick Dixon
Misha 21 Jun, 2014 Lead O/S
with GPN
with GPN
GPN 21 Jun, 2014 2nd β Awesome route!
with Misha
Awesome route!
with Misha
tim newton 20 Jun, 2014 Lead O/S Lead it, then abbed it to strip the gear, then Rachel lead it, so I seconded it again too. Brilliant climb, shame it's not better value for the grade though, it would be better if the upper half was more difficult.
Lead it, then abbed it to strip the gear, then Rachel lead it, so I seconded it again too. Brilliant climb, shame it's not better value for the grade though, it would be better if the upper half was more difficult.
Rachel Slater 20 Jun, 2014 Lead O/S Amazing. Very steady and it was so nice to climb in the sun.
Amazing. Very steady and it was so nice to climb in the sun.
Luxulyan 18 Jun, 2014 2nd
with Tom Murrell
with Tom Murrell
mike mo ??, 2014 -
mike mo ??, 2014 -
mike mo ??, 2014 -
Glyn 21 Jul, 2013 Lead O/S
with Tom Skelhon
with Tom Skelhon
Hidden 20 Jul, 2013 Lead O/S
Hidden 20 Jul, 2013 Lead O/S
mike mo 20 Jul, 2013 2nd
Hidden 14 Jul, 2013 Lead O/S
Hidden 9 Jul, 2013 Lead O/S
Andrew Barker 7 Jul, 2013 2nd Great stuff. Had to hang on a cam to remove a stuck nut under the starting roof.
Great stuff. Had to hang on a cam to remove a stuck nut under the starting roof.
Speeddemonsi 7 Jul, 2013 Lead O/S
Hidden 6 Jul, 2013 2nd O/S
Hidden 5 Jul, 2013 Lead O/S
nathanlee 19 Jun, 2013 2nd β
The old James turnbull 19 Jun, 2013 Lead O/S felt easy for 6a but still e4 for creaky flakes and some run outs. awsome route
felt easy for 6a but still e4 for creaky flakes and some run outs. awsome route
dan gibson 18 Jun, 2013 2nd O/S
with alice thompson
with alice thompson
Alice Thompson 18 Jun, 2013 Lead O/S Epic!
Epic!
Hidden 8 Jun, 2013 2nd
markalmack 8 Jun, 2013 Lead O/S
with ctodd
with ctodd
LRob 6 Jun, 2013 Lead O/S
Dan Arkle ??, 2013 Lead O/S
khawk 8 Sep, 2012 Lead O/S
with datoon
with datoon
soph 28 May, 2012 Lead O/S On my Birthday :o)
with Dan McManus
On my Birthday :o)
with Dan McManus
Ewan Russell 27 May, 2012 2nd Fell off crux took a big swing on strech. clean next good
Fell off crux took a big swing on strech. clean next good
Hidden 27 May, 2012 Lead O/S
Dave Almond 26 May, 2012 2nd Warm and windy
with mux
Warm and windy
with mux
mux 26 May, 2012 Lead O/S very windy, had to climb inbetween the gusts at times. Got a nice Kalymnos esk seat rest in the middle.
with Dave Almond
very windy, had to climb inbetween the gusts at times. Got a nice Kalymnos esk seat rest in the middle.
with Dave Almond
Pete Graham ?May, 2012 Lead O/S
with Howard Lawledge
with Howard Lawledge
OffshoreAndy ?Jan, 2012 2nd
OffshoreAndy ?Jan, 2012 2nd
OffshoreAndy ?Jan, 2012 2nd
OffshoreAndy ?Jan, 2012 2nd
kingholmesy ??, 2012 Lead Fluffed the pull over the roof on my first attempt and ended up back down by the belay. It felt easy the second time round, although interest was well maintained all the way to the top. A great pitch.
Fluffed the pull over the roof on my first attempt and ended up back down by the belay. It felt easy the second time round, although interest was well maintained all the way to the top. A great pitch.
Hidden 3 Jul, 2011 Lead O/S
Hidden ?Jul, 2011 2nd
Russell Birkett 3 Jun, 2011 Lead O/S Superb.
with Murdoch J
Superb.
with Murdoch J
Ram MkiV 24 Apr, 2011 Lead O/S
with Guy
with Guy
Hidden ??, 2011 -
Hidden ??, 2011 -
ewen 21 Jun, 2010 2nd
with neil stabbs
with neil stabbs
Luke Brooks 4 Jun, 2010 Lead O/S
with Owain
with Owain
Ows ?Jun, 2010 2nd
Hidden 22 May, 2010 Lead O/S
Alex Mason 24 Apr, 2010 Lead O/S A taxing pitch. Lots of 5c/6a sections, a committing start, but, generally solid gear. Absolutely superb and definately one of the best trad pitches in the UK.
with George Ullrich
A taxing pitch. Lots of 5c/6a sections, a committing start, but, generally solid gear. Absolutely superb and definately one of the best trad pitches in the UK.
with George Ullrich
Hidden ??, 2010 -
Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing ??, 2010 Lead O/S
with Helena Robinson
with Helena Robinson
Hidden 1 Jun, 2009 2nd dog
datoon 15 Jun, 2008 Lead O/S Amazing climbing
with RT
Amazing climbing
with RT
IOAN D 9 Jun, 2007 Lead O/S there at bang on 6am. what a route!
with Mills
there at bang on 6am. what a route!
with Mills
Hidden 6 Jun, 2007 Lead O/S
DavidEvans 16 Jul, 2006 2nd
Adam Ellwood 16 Jul, 2006 Lead O/S 4 stars
4 stars
MikePycroft ?Jun, 2006 Lead dnf
with Dave Holmes
with Dave Holmes
Kev Little ??, 2004 Lead O/S
Shaved Atom ??, 2002 Lead O/S Out there classic of epic proportions!
Out there classic of epic proportions!
Tom Briggs ?Sep, 2000 2nd
with Nick Bullock
with Nick Bullock
Just Another Dave ??, 1998 2nd O/S
with Jo Bertalot
with Jo Bertalot
ellis ?Sep, 1997 Lead O/S
with coula1
with coula1
Neil McA 20 Jul, 1997 Lead O/S Then walked down in the pissing rain.
with Beak 1.
Then walked down in the pissing rain.
with Beak 1.
steveb2006 21 Jul, 1996 Lead A worrying communication problem when towards top. Think thet Rob may have thought I was at teh top when I wasnt - difficult to hear each other. Rob doesnt second-abb for gear.
with Rob Gambles
A worrying communication problem when towards top. Think thet Rob may have thought I was at teh top when I wasnt - difficult to hear each other. Rob doesnt second-abb for gear.
with Rob Gambles
Roget 21 Jul, 1996 Lead O/S
with jon
with jon
pete johnson 20 Jul, 1996 Lead O/S
with Hughie
with Hughie
sadams 8 Jun, 1996 Lead O/S
with John Boyle
with John Boyle
Hidden ?Jun, 1996 AltLd
Hidden ?Jun, 1996 Lead
Hidden ?Sep, 1995 Lead O/S
wynaptomos ?Sep, 1995 Lead O/S
Dave Musgrove Jnr 1 Aug, 1995 2nd
with Nick Ashton
with Nick Ashton
Campbell42 2 Jul, 1995 2nd
with Chris Wilson
with Chris Wilson
Hidden 29 Jun, 1995 Lead
D Tempest 25 Jun, 1995 2nd
with Rick
with Rick
Hidden 25 Jun, 1995 Lead O/S
duncan ?Jun, 1995 2nd Feels about F6a+ on a top rope.
with AlisonC
Feels about F6a+ on a top rope.
with AlisonC
Hidden ??, 1995 Lead O/S
UKB Shark 17 Jul, 1994 Lead O/S
with John Codling
with John Codling
duncan ?Jun, 1994 Lead O/S
with Dan Donovan
with Dan Donovan
Steve Crowe 15 Jun, 1992 Lead O/S A bit loose but superb positions.
A bit loose but superb positions.
sharpie ?Jun, 1992 Lead O/S
with PL
with PL
jfletcher 17 May, 1992 AltLd O/S Arrived at the top of the Pinnacle about 07:00, climbed in the sun wearing only shorts. A memorable morning!
with David Gilkes
Arrived at the top of the Pinnacle about 07:00, climbed in the sun wearing only shorts. A memorable morning!
with David Gilkes
michael burrows 10 Jun, 1990 Lead O/S one point of rest half way up.
with brian jones
one point of rest half way up.
with brian jones
Eduardo Martinez 5 Mar, 1990 Lead O/S
Pedro50 17 Jun, 1989 Lead O/S
with Nigel Preston
with Nigel Preston
Paula Hamilton-Gibson 14 May, 1988 2nd O/S
with Luke Steer
with Luke Steer
Mike Owen 24 Jul, 1984 Lead O/S
with Eric Rooseberry
with Eric Rooseberry
Hidden 31 Aug, 1983 Lead
Hidden 22 Aug, 1983 Lead
Mark Kemball 14 Jul, 1983 Lead
with Dave Abbey
with Dave Abbey
Ian Jones ??, 1983 2nd O/S
with Super Yorkie Paul Craven
with Super Yorkie Paul Craven
andy gittins ??, 1980 -
Hidden ??, 1980 Lead
147 users have this on their wishlist
Voting
High E5
Mid E5
Low E5
High E4
Mid E4
Low E4
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
Votes cast 27
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
Votes cast 26
Votes cast 25
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Alt Leads
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Dogged
Flashed (β)
Ground Up
DNF
Not Set