Rockfax Description
Excellent and underrated with some great positions - an Ellis's Eliminate for grown-ups. Swing along the lowest break then climb the fine upper arete - bold to start. © Rockfax

G.Dimmock 1965

Ticklists: Full of Myself - Johnny's Book namecheck.

pingora 21/Aug/16 2nd O/S
with Charles
cem 21/Aug/16 Lead O/S
mattlyons 27/Jul/16 2nd

Hard for VS

Teappleby 27/Jul/16 Lead
with Matt lyons
ralphio 18/Jun/16 Lead O/S

Wonderful climbing up the arete. Worth the three stars.

with Nik
Lancer 07/Jun/16 2nd O/S

The traverse was pretty punchy- arms were shagged after that. Nicky did well on the arete- it looked pretty run out on lead!

with NickyC
M_Robinson 02/Jun/16 Lead O/S
with Ian Robinson
Gambit 29/May/16 Solo rpt
with Mike
Hidden 28/May/16 Lead
Gambit 28/May/16 Lead O/S

Can't really claim the full onsight as had previously onsight soloed archangel

with Mike
MSchobitz 16/May/16 Lead O/S
hotfeet 07/May/16 Lead

Double ropes would have avoided the rope drag.

The Reaper 26/Sep/15 Lead O/S

Quite tough, certainly a lot more intimidating than Ellis's Eliminate.

with frank mckenna
Tithe Technique 13/Sep/15 2nd O/S
charley 13/Sep/15 Lead O/S

Nice route. Probably more like 4c. I've done easier HVS's however VS is a fair grade - good value though.

valentinesbabe 13/Sep/15 2nd

Climbed on 12/9/15

Hidden 09/Sep/15 2nd O/S
mike8331 20/Aug/15 Lead
GainzULMC 14/Jul/15 Lead dnf

Couldn't make it past the traverse... The route claimed blood. Next time.

FlavioL1989 12/Jul/15 Solo O/S
danJBA 24/Jun/15 Lead O/S
dan gibson 24/Jun/15 2nd
with Dan A, Olga
Senna 09/Jun/15 Lead G/U
Dan Hostford 23/May/15 Solo O/S
Tim Harper 21/Apr/15 Lead O/S
Nick_Merriman 21/Apr/15 2nd O/S
islandlynx 18/Apr/15 2nd
TomRiddelsdell 18/Apr/15 Lead O/S

Very tough for a VS.

morganator 17/Apr/15 Solo
soph 17/Apr/15 Solo
Canyak ??/2015 -
jon22 05/Oct/14 Lead
with Neil Griffith
Hidden 28/Sep/14 2nd O/S
David Mayers 12/Aug/14 2nd
with Stuart Howard
Chris Craggs 30/Jul/14 2nd

Excellent, varied and with great positions - VS 4c

with Graham Parkes
Hidden 27/Jul/14 2nd O/S
g1m147 27/Jul/14 Lead
mtempest 13/Jul/14 2nd
Steve Waters, Mynydd 13/Jul/14 Lead

Very little for the feet on the traverse. A couple of tricky moves on the arete. Nice quality.

reima 07/Jul/14 2nd
with Niamh
dannyboy83 06/Jun/14 Solo O/S
professorcobra 04/May/14 Lead O/S
WillDoyle 03/May/14 Lead O/S
alaster tonge 18/Apr/14 Lead dog
with Assad Lahlou
Brown 09/Mar/14 Solo
with Lilifa
vanderz 01/Mar/14 Lead O/S
the power 07/Nov/13 2nd

hvs 4c

with rob
dr_botnik 07/Nov/13 Lead O/S

More like HVS at other crags. Was thinking of escaping off at top then Leo Holding popped his head over, decided I couldn't fluff a VS in front of him and pulled through to top.

scoth 30/Sep/13 2nd O/S
with Jackwd
Jackwd 30/Sep/13 Lead dog

Nails for the grade.

David Kay 14/Sep/13 2nd
Moritz L 14/Sep/13 Lead O/S

was nervous on traverse

Hidden 07/Jun/13 Lead
khalidq 31/May/13 Lead O/S

Pretty cool traverse onto the arete.

Hidden 19/May/13 Lead O/S
sheelba 20/Apr/13 2nd dog

Fell off the traverse so ended up swinging onto Archangel and following the arete to the top!

Andy Peak 1 02/Mar/13 Solo

MAde me jiber on solo took me a while for adrenalin to subside before finishing:-)

Hidden 11/Nov/12 2nd
rustaldo 02/Nov/12 Solo O/S
Tim Rodgers 20/Oct/12 Lead
rd20 14/Oct/12 2nd O/S
with Hilary CC
Laurence Cowton 07/Oct/12 2nd dog

Found this really hard!

with Vince
SteWatkins ?/Sep/12 -
Haydn Jones 18/Aug/12 Lead O/S
with julia
Julia Chatterton 18/Aug/12 2nd
with Hayden
Hidden 05/Aug/12 Lead O/S
JanBella 25/Jul/12 TR dog

traverse felt quiet hard

with matt
psychomansam 19/Jun/12 Lead
RM199 19/Jun/12 2nd O/S
Hidden 11/Jun/12 2nd
buxtoncoffeelover 11/Jun/12 Lead
Hidden 22/May/12 Lead O/S
Oliver Houston 20/May/12 Lead O/S
with Sarah
Steve Perry 12/May/12 Lead

Bottled at the top due to a distinct lack of any substantial gear and still being gripped from a near fall from the arete after standing on my rope. Finished onto Goliath's Groove. This is a great route, ***?, and ridiculously under graded at VS 4b. Definitely HVS 4c

Kate14 12/May/12 2nd
Graeme Hammond 30/Apr/12 Lead O/S

great climbing, think VS 4c though.

Hidden 25/Mar/12 2nd O/S
Curly Rich 24/Mar/12 Lead O/S
with GMC JohnP
Hidden 17/Mar/12 2nd dog
Hidden ??/2012 -
Hidden ??/2012 -
Sowerby Sam 20/Nov/11 2nd dnf

Didn't feel up to it for the first climb having not climbed for a couple of weeks. Started the traverse but couldn't get the gear out or hold on.

Hidden 20/Nov/11 Lead
Roget 11/Sep/11 Lead O/S
with robin, jim
rich_hw 14/Aug/11 Lead rpt
Batt 09/Aug/11 2nd O/S

4b my a*se. Good fun though.

Hoyes 09/Aug/11 Lead
Hidden 13/Jul/11 2nd O/S
Liam Ingram 13/Jul/11 Lead O/S

Maybe HVS 4c. Hand traverse harder than Ellis's Eliminate.

Hidden 18/Jun/11 Lead O/S
thedatastream 18/Jun/11 2nd O/S

airy hand traverse!

Bob M 15/Jun/11 2nd

Chosen so Paul could set up a top rope on Archangel. Superb and varied climbing, top end VS, 2 or 3 stars, much better and harder than the guide suggests.

kermit_uk 05/Jun/11 Lead O/S
with Ian, Steve Woolass
Jim Slater 10/May/11 2nd O/S
uphillnow ??/2011 -
mwatson ??/2011 -
Hidden 13/Oct/10 -
kevp 12/Oct/10 Lead
pastep 26/Sep/10 Lead

lovely route. Don't hang around on the traverse.

with Tibor
max_chan 04/Sep/10 2nd O/S
with Steve Carty
gethin_allen 11/Aug/10 Lead O/S

pretty gripping, thought the traverse was going to be the crux but found the arete above to be tough.

with Jimbo C
Jimbo C 11/Aug/10 2nd

Took the opportunity to go direct up the wall at the top. Goes at about 5a and is worth doing

with Gethin
Tadams 10/Aug/10 Lead O/S

Feels run out between the good break on the arete to the ledge - a fall from just below the ledge would hurt.

with Tony Topping, Giles Walton
Hidden 08/Aug/10 2nd O/S
colin milton 08/Aug/10 Lead

most underated route on stanage ?

with little vic
adam carless 08/Aug/10 Lead O/S

laughable grading - climb this and Topsail at Birchen and tell me they're the same grade. More like HVS 4c.

with Claire's mate Chris
Hidden 02/Jul/10 Lead O/S
tdan0504 26/Jun/10 Lead O/S
with Bat Casale
jadm2 21/May/10 2nd dog

Tough for VS

remus 08/May/10 Solo O/S

Felt particularly airy.

jubolo 16/Apr/10 2nd
with JIm
D Berry 28/Mar/10 2nd dog

Needed tension to complete the traverse at the third time of asking. Was then too ridiculousy gripped to enjoy the arete which puts you in a great position with lovely moves.

gazfellows 13/Mar/10 Lead
basvdploeg ??/2010 -
RossG ??/2010 -
Hidden ?/Dec/09 -
Hidden 13/Oct/09 Solo O/S
Lumbering Oaf 26/Sep/09 Lead O/S

This one's a beauty. Once I got the nerve up to do the traverse all was good. I found this route to be quite bold but the holds are there when you need them.

Hidden 22/Aug/09 2nd O/S
Hidden 22/Aug/09 Lead O/S
djones66 22/Aug/09 Lead O/S

This is a superb climb - how its been left out of some guidebooks, I don't understand. Superb poisitions, continuously interesting moves on faultless rock - what more do you want? However, VS 4b is definitely a bit on the low side; I'd say its a solid VS4c, and not low in the grade at that. More to the point, its a better route than many 2 star routes. Do it before it gets polished - at the moment, its hardly 'worn' at all.

with Mark Jones
Piers Harley 02/Aug/09 2nd
with Paul Winder
Pilch 02/Jul/09 2nd O/S
with Graham
Tom_Harding ?/May/09 2nd O/S
with Mat
Reaver2k 22/Mar/09 Lead O/S

Felt hard for VS, especially in the gale force winds! Climbed up the (clean) part of the groove, placed some gear round the corner. Moved around and sat on one foot on the arete, placed some more gear at full reach, retreated back, went back, couldnt quite reach it to clip, moved back, went round, clipped the gear, and kept on moving. There was a bit of a break lower down which was useful, then its just a case of swinging along with practically no footholds until the pocket for your right foot. Reach the arete and there is some lovely jams in the break and a nice ledge round the right. Took a moment and went up the juggy arete, almost barn-doored off. Got up to the overhang, and suddenly it got REALLY windy, could barely move. When the wind dropped, I almost went up and left over the roof but again got pummeled by the wind, couldn't get any more gear in so decided it wasn't worth it and retreated round right to finish easily. Appereantly I don't own this route...

with Tom Dixon, Michael, Becca
Hidden 21/Mar/09 Lead O/S
Strong Steve 11/Oct/08 Lead O/S
Simon Holden (LCandCC) 17/Aug/08 2nd O/S
with Murray
Peetzy 10/Aug/08 2nd O/S
Shauna 23/Jun/08 2nd O/S

Tough traverse

with Duz
laurencehicks 17/May/08 Lead O/S

Griper, took me 40 mins to do, enjoyed every one of them!

with kev
Si dH 26/Apr/08 Lead O/S

Felt quite tough for the grade to me - haqrdish VS 4c,not 4b. And really good too. A better and harder vrsion of Ellis' Eliminate, no idea why its so overlooked - presumably because it starts from Helfensteins!

with Mark
PanzerHanzler 09/Feb/08 Lead O/S
with Pat Holborn
tjmillen ??/2008 Lead O/S
Hidden 23/Nov/07 Lead dog
Gman ?/Jun/05 Lead O/S
with Eamon
Stig 08/Sep/04 Lead O/S
with Charlie Reade-Jahn
RossG123 ??/1997 -
nigehughes ?/Jul/82 Lead
with Phil James
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High HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
High HS
Mid HS
Low HS
Votes cast 47
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
High 4b
Mid 4b
Low 4b
Votes cast 48
Votes cast 41
Style of ascent
Not Set
Ground Up
Not Set