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3 star Scottish winter, Chasing the Ephemeral, Winter VIIIs, Scottish Winter IV-VII

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Logged Ascents

UserDateStyleNotes & Partners
WillHempstead 24 Mar AltLd what a route! murray took all the good pitches here, whilst i got the cornice. we felt like neve would really ease the cave exit
with murray
what a route! murray took all the good pitches here, whilst i got the cornice. we felt like neve would really ease the cave exit
with murray
murray 24 Mar AltLd O/S I thought we might get some neve on the crux but i was treated to the traditional desperate grovel over the chockstone onto powder over frozen gravel. Most of the rest of the route is amazing well protected fun! Will heroically carved a man sized hole through the cornice to see us onto the plateau as it got dark.
I thought we might get some neve on the crux but i was treated to the traditional desperate grovel over the chockstone onto powder over frozen gravel. Most of the rest of the route is amazing well protected fun! Will heroically carved a man sized hole through the cornice to see us onto the plateau as it got dark.
Hidden 17 Jan -
James Gordon ?Jan -
Jamie Skelton 21 Dec, 2018 AltLd O/S No neve but still a blast! Amazing route. P2 + p3
No neve but still a blast! Amazing route. P2 + p3
Matthew Glenn 21 Dec, 2018 AltLd O/S Incredible climb ! Led p1 and 4. I want to go back later and lead Crux pitches
Incredible climb ! Led p1 and 4. I want to go back later and lead Crux pitches
Adam24B 19 Mar, 2018 AltLd O/S What a finish to a mega season! Got hot aches on the steep pumpy bit, gear was okish with a fair amount of ice in the cracks. Had to run it out climbing up to the cave. Good neve in places helped a lot, especially exiting the cave!
What a finish to a mega season! Got hot aches on the steep pumpy bit, gear was okish with a fair amount of ice in the cracks. Had to run it out climbing up to the cave. Good neve in places helped a lot, especially exiting the cave!
donalmurray 19 Mar, 2018 AltLd O/S Outstanding route. Cutting loose coming out of the cave belay was interesting and some very enjoyable powerful moves made for the climb of the season. There's an absolutely monstrous impassable cornice hanging over the route and it was shedding lots of ice in the sun today. Didn't fancy dying on such a nice day so we called it and abbed off from a nicely laced ab point obviously set by whoever had the same decision to make the day before us.
with Adam24B
Outstanding route. Cutting loose coming out of the cave belay was interesting and some very enjoyable powerful moves made for the climb of the season. There's an absolutely monstrous impassable cornice hanging over the route and it was shedding lots of ice in the sun today. Didn't fancy dying on such a nice day so we called it and abbed off from a nicely laced ab point obviously set by whoever had the same decision to make the day before us.
with Adam24B
LucaC 22 Feb, 2018 Lead O/S Lead all the pitches. Hard going and rubbish gear with heavy verglass, but easy climbing on the crux with good build up. Much harder elsewhere, mostly climbed with kneebars and the friction coefficient of gortex on ice.
with Rhys
Lead all the pitches. Hard going and rubbish gear with heavy verglass, but easy climbing on the crux with good build up. Much harder elsewhere, mostly climbed with kneebars and the friction coefficient of gortex on ice.
with Rhys
Rhys Deane 21 Feb, 2018 2nd
Graeme Barr 12 Jan, 2018 AltLd O/S
with Tim
with Tim
Hidden 12 Jan, 2018 AltLd O/S
jay.mac 11 Jan, 2018 AltLd O/S
with lachlan
with lachlan
lachlan 11 Jan, 2018 AltLd No ice or Neve on route. Took a little clearing in places. Cracking day for it. Jamie climbed in running tights as he forgot his trousers! Ab'd off after third pitch as we were late in starting and running out of light
with jay.mac
No ice or Neve on route. Took a little clearing in places. Cracking day for it. Jamie climbed in running tights as he forgot his trousers! Ab'd off after third pitch as we were late in starting and running out of light
with jay.mac
lindsay yule ??, 2018 AltLd O/S
with Paul Smith
with Paul Smith
Craig Holden 5 Feb, 2017 Lead O/S Could have done with some neve after roof, made it feel hard.
with Jake Dowell
Could have done with some neve after roof, made it feel hard.
with Jake Dowell
Grimpzen 28 Mar, 2016 2nd Just cold enough so the rock and ice were fine, hard route ! happy to struggle with the rope from above !
Just cold enough so the rock and ice were fine, hard route ! happy to struggle with the rope from above !
Andrew Wilson 2 Jan, 2016 AltLd O/S P1 and 2. Misha did the top 2 from the cave. Was tricky with no neve both entering and leaving the cave. The pulls over the cave roof were extremely tenuous as small rock hooks had to be used on the left side wall due to lack of snow in chimney. Great route.
with Misha
P1 and 2. Misha did the top 2 from the cave. Was tricky with no neve both entering and leaving the cave. The pulls over the cave roof were extremely tenuous as small rock hooks had to be used on the left side wall due to lack of snow in chimney. Great route.
with Misha
Misha 2 Jan, 2016 Lead Mega! Andy led P1 and 2, I did P3 and 4. Good early season conditions (snowed up and lightly rimed), just could have done with some neve in the back of the chimney as opposed to a thin layer of snow over gravel - would have made it nicer and a bit easier but not complaining! This time P1 was ok as opposed to unconsolidated crud a year ago. I thought the start of P2 was the hardest bit in some ways - some insecure hooks between good ones, though the gear is generally good. May be I just found it tough with cold hands after the belay. Going over the roof looked exciting but proved to be fine - back and footed out of the cave to hook the chockstone, then bridged out, so it wasn't strenuous. The tricky bit was pulling over hooking sideways on a couple of small vertical edges on the left wall - I imagine it would be easier with decent neve in the bottom of the chimney. Don't know if it was tech 8 but I'll take a VII 7 and I'd say P2 was worth that as well. The chimney above the roof was easier but still fun. For P4 I went up to a platform above the in situ stance and followed a steep chimney crack which had good hooks and gear but also a sting in the tail, VI 7 (finish C here http://www.scottishwinter.com/?p=1488). Quality route and the first VII for both me and Andy :-)
Mega! Andy led P1 and 2, I did P3 and 4. Good early season conditions (snowed up and lightly rimed), just could have done with some neve in the back of the chimney as opposed to a thin layer of snow over gravel - would have made it nicer and a bit easier but not complaining! This time P1 was ok as opposed to unconsolidated crud a year ago. I thought the start of P2 was the hardest bit in some ways - some insecure hooks between good ones, though the gear is generally good. May be I just found it tough with cold hands after the belay. Going over the roof looked exciting but proved to be fine - back and footed out of the cave to hook the chockstone, then bridged out, so it wasn't strenuous. The tricky bit was pulling over hooking sideways on a couple of small vertical edges on the left wall - I imagine it would be easier with decent neve in the bottom of the chimney. Don't know if it was tech 8 but I'll take a VII 7 and I'd say P2 was worth that as well. The chimney above the roof was easier but still fun. For P4 I went up to a platform above the in situ stance and followed a steep chimney crack which had good hooks and gear but also a sting in the tail, VI 7 (finish C here http://www.scottishwinter.com/?p=1488). Quality route and the first VII for both me and Andy :-)
Hidden 16 Mar, 2015 Lead dnf
Martin McKenna - UKC 14 Mar, 2015 2nd Pitch 2 and 3 only. Pitch two is bold.
Pitch 2 and 3 only. Pitch two is bold.
mim tiller 14 Mar, 2015 Lead O/S lead pitches 2 and 3, felt bolder than expected but technically easier
lead pitches 2 and 3, felt bolder than expected but technically easier
Tom Livingstone 28 Feb, 2015 Lead O/S Led every pitch. Cheers Chris.
Led every pitch. Cheers Chris.
Misha 28 Dec, 2014 Lead dnf
Hidden 23 Dec, 2014 AltLd O/S
malx ?Dec, 2014 AltLd O/S Brilliant
Brilliant
Uisdean hawthorn 30 Nov, 2013 AltLd
Harry Holmes 10 Mar, 2013 Lead dnf Partner couldn't second pitch 2 so abbed off from cave belay
with Sinclair Cooper
Partner couldn't second pitch 2 so abbed off from cave belay
with Sinclair Cooper
Hidden ??, 2013 -
Hidden 18 Dec, 2012 Lead dnf
Hidden 30 Nov, 2012 AltLd O/S
Hidden 27 Nov, 2012 -
Smith42 28 Jan, 2012 AltLd O/S With alternative-direct finish.
with Lindsay Yule
With alternative-direct finish.
with Lindsay Yule
Pete Graham 28 Jan, 2012 Lead
with Andy Hall
with Andy Hall
mux 27 Jan, 2012 Lead O/S BMC Winter Meet I led pitches 2,3 & 4
with magnus, Jan Svrcek
BMC Winter Meet I led pitches 2,3 & 4
with magnus, Jan Svrcek
Petarghh 6 Jan, 2012 2nd dnf Weather crapped out on us after Pete lead 2nd Pitch, Climbing was above my level but probably could have just about got it on second. need to get much stronger for next time !
Weather crapped out on us after Pete lead 2nd Pitch, Climbing was above my level but probably could have just about got it on second. need to get much stronger for next time !
Malcolm Bass ??, 2012 AltLd O/S Very top pitch harder than expected if you take straight up option. Multiple finishes, see Simon Richardsons blog.
with Simon Yearsley
Very top pitch harder than expected if you take straight up option. Multiple finishes, see Simon Richardsons blog.
with Simon Yearsley
GraMc 29 Dec, 2011 AltLd O/S fantastic route, lead pitches 2 and 3, then took over robs lead of 4 after he took a lob.....
with rob
fantastic route, lead pitches 2 and 3, then took over robs lead of 4 after he took a lob.....
with rob
robpartridge 29 Dec, 2011 AltLd O/S
with GraMc
with GraMc
Hidden 27 Nov, 2011 AltLd dnf
Dave Almond 11 Mar, 2011 AltLd
with frost
with frost
frost 11 Mar, 2011 AltLd O/S
with D Almond
with D Almond
Adam Lincoln 29 Jan, 2011 -
with Kev Avery
with Kev Avery
Hidden 28 Jan, 2011 AltLd O/S
simon_D 22 Jan, 2011 AltLd I led p2 (great wall climbing into crack and cave), and p4 (top corner true finish is also steep/technical, fell off top move pulling over!) Amazing route, crux pitch involves inventive footwork, knee-bars and tenuous hooks - well done Neil! Memorable day oot!
with Neil Silver
I led p2 (great wall climbing into crack and cave), and p4 (top corner true finish is also steep/technical, fell off top move pulling over!) Amazing route, crux pitch involves inventive footwork, knee-bars and tenuous hooks - well done Neil! Memorable day oot!
with Neil Silver
Lester 21 Dec, 2010 AltLd O/S
with Conor Gahan
with Conor Gahan
Greg Boswell 5 Dec, 2010 Lead O/S
with ken lacey
with ken lacey
Ken Applegate 27 Nov, 2010 AltLd Led P1 & 4, so not the crux chimney pitches. Great route.
with Guy Stevens
Led P1 & 4, so not the crux chimney pitches. Great route.
with Guy Stevens
andyinglis 13 Feb, 2010 AltLd O/S Brilliant sustained route with hard crux. Lead pitches 2 and 4.
with neil adams
Brilliant sustained route with hard crux. Lead pitches 2 and 4.
with neil adams
Neil Adams 13 Feb, 2010 AltLd O/S Excellent!
Excellent!
Ed Booth 2 Dec, 2009 AltLd Led first pitch. popped twice pulling onto 3m wall and then when on went straight to belay. fell seconidng wills pitch. nails pulling into groove after the cave! Rapped down cornucopia after main groove. on walk out slipped on verglas on descent path after CIC and took nasty ride down into the stream. Lucky
with will sim
Led first pitch. popped twice pulling onto 3m wall and then when on went straight to belay. fell seconidng wills pitch. nails pulling into groove after the cave! Rapped down cornucopia after main groove. on walk out slipped on verglas on descent path after CIC and took nasty ride down into the stream. Lucky
with will sim
sgl 8 Apr, 2008 AltLd O/S
with Kiwi Steve
with Kiwi Steve
Nick Wallis ??, 2005 AltLd O/S
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Voting
High VIII
Mid VIII
Low VIII
High VII
Mid VII
Low VII
High VI
Mid VI
Low VI
Votes cast 21
High 9
Mid 9
Low 9
High 8
Mid 8
Low 8
High 7
Mid 7
Low 7
Votes cast 22
Votes cast 18
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Not Set
Onsighted
DNF
Not Set