UKC

300m. The most obvious gully in the middle of the cliff has several ice pitches in the bottom half. The stars are for lean icy conditions when the route can be excellent. A 3*** day out in the right conditions.

ClimberDateStyle
sallygal29 27/Feb 2nd
Hoyes 18/Feb AltLd O/S
HimTiggins 18/Feb Lead O/S
with Amanda
carr0t 18/Feb -
David Kay 18/Feb AltLd O/S
Hammy-G 18/Feb -
with Carr0t
jamieevans 18/Feb Lead

With Andy and Mike

mark-abz 18/Feb AltLd
with Emma G - AMC, Razzak - AMC
Lumbering Oaf 18/Feb 2nd O/S
joem 17/Feb AltLd O/S

Cracking route ice on the soft side but made for good axe placements.

with Phil behan
Bones [:B 17/Feb 2nd
guy127917 17/Feb Lead O/S

Good clean fun today in the sunshine.

with Jen
Paul Figg 17/Feb AltLd

Probably one of the best grade III ice routes you'll find.

Simon Yearsley 17/Feb AltLd
with Adrian Mellor
Malcolm Bass 17/Feb AltLd
rockstott 17/Feb Lead

Guided 1 person up.

jackob 16/Feb Lead O/S

Lead P1 & 3 p3 was melting before my very eyes! beautiful day and beautiful route but a bit too sunny!

Clevelandclimber 16/Feb AltLd
with Simon Yeardsley
ollyroberts 12/Feb AltLd O/S
with Lee Paskin
Hidden 12/Feb 2nd O/S
annab84 11/Feb AltLd
with nikki macarthur
Hidden 11/Feb Lead O/S
annep 11/Feb AltLd
rob16 08/Feb Solo
Hidden 07/Feb AltLd
mrbird 07/Feb AltLd
scottie390 05/Feb -
with James Henry
Hidden 05/Feb AltLd
Hidden 05/Feb AltLd O/S
Eloise_SW 03/Feb 2nd dnf

Lots of powder and ice that broke off so we bailed. Went up a different gully, about II but don't know which one.

benkelsey 03/Feb Lead dnf

Unfrozen turf, rotten ice, just lots of unconsolidated powder. Sacked it off and did some mixed variation further to the right.

Hidden 26/Jan AltLd O/S
Hidden 25/Jan Solo O/S
augmantas 20/Jan Lead O/S

Did it in 4 pitches with 70m rope, though had to simultaneously climb through easy ground, so one pitch was 100m long. Had a great time as the climb was empty because all other climbers that thought they were on Central Gully were on North Gully.

with Callum
BrianShackleton 20/Jan AltLd

Skied up Lurcher’s Gully and descended South Gully to approach the route. Climbed 5 icefalls in 5 pitches then back to the skis for a torchlit descent to the car park.

with Helen
HelenB 20/Jan AltLd O/S

Skied in from the ski centre car park then climbed in ski boots. Finished in the dark and had to ski back by headtorch... Just led the second of 5 pitches. Plenty of ice but it was bullet hard and my blunt axes didn't work too well...

with BrianS
garethshellard 20/Jan AltLd O/S
with ollie1
ollie1 20/Jan AltLd O/S
with Gareth Shellard
MaccMark 19/Jan AltLd G/U
Fiona Hughes 13/Jan 2nd
with SP
Hidden 13/Jan Lead
Hidden 11/Jan AltLd O/S
Hidden 11/Jan AltLd rpt
annab84 10/Jan 2nd
with dave sharpe
CaelanB 07/Jan AltLd O/S

Perfect conditions on a perfect day! Get on it while it lasts

Hidden 07/Jan Solo O/S
Alex Riley 07/Jan AltLd O/S

Mega, amazing route with great weather

with CaelanB
guitarshane 04/Jan AltLd rpt

Mix of solo, pitching and moving together, really good fun. Ice a bit cruddy in places lower down but soon improved, nice to hit some virgin ice before its hooked out. Shame there's not a few more ice pitches.

with Ben Gibson
Rosie Henstock 01/Jan AltLd O/S

Climbed 3 of the 4 ice pitches which have formed. Skipped the last one as it was getting late. Topped out as it went dark so perfect timing. Ice thick enough to place full length screws but still on the lean side (i.e steeper and more fun!)

TGreen 01/Jan AltLd O/S

Great climb

with Holly Walker, Paul Hazel, Rosie Henstock
runsteepclimbhigh ??/2018 AltLd

Cracking condition - plus the sun was out for a bit. Forgot my belay and lost my map - nightmare! Three solid ice pitches - really nice water ice thawing towards the end of the day.

winst0n ??/2018 -
Jenny Dart 10/Mar/17 -
Alex the Alex 10/Mar/17 2nd
Robin Woodward 10/Mar/17 Lead O/S

Decent snow up the initial gully but the first 2 ice pitches weren't there any longer requiring some slightly suspect diversions, however the final Grade IV left hand variant Ice pitch was still in and worth the slog in! Great ice for climbing if a little thin in places. 2 solid screws and 5 inch in tie-offs for 50m of climbing made it a bit spicier than it should have been. Lovely alpine feel above this and on the summit with as many glissades as we could find in our descent down the ridge. A great day snatched before the thaw hit properly.

with Alex
Hidden 04/Mar/17 AltLd O/S
Hidden 04/Mar/17 AltLd
joe king 04/Mar/16 AltLd O/S
with steveP
steveP 04/Mar/16 AltLd

Two good ice pitches. Weather not so great...

mcglenr25 03/Mar/16 2nd O/S
with Matthew Jackson
nickdonohue 01/Mar/16 2nd

A mild day (bottom pitch not in condition and bypassed by easy snow on the right) but 2 nice ice pitches led by Tom.

with Tom Lawfield
kerry 28/Feb/16 AltLd
with smith42, tim
Smith42 28/Feb/16 AltLd

Four good ice pitches in the sun!

Tim Rodgers 28/Feb/16 AltLd
FlamehairedFrodo 27/Feb/16 AltLd
morsg 27/Feb/16 AltLd

Ice protection still good, but melting in the sunshine.

Tony Ryland 27/Feb/16 AltLd

Scary lead on left fork 5th pitch on thin ice covered rocks that looked like a candelabra Good ice in places

masa-alpin 27/Feb/16 AltLd dog

Kyle lead P1, 3, Elinor did P5, and I did P2 an P4. We took the RH branch, and the crux pillar was thin with 20cm thick at the bottom. I took a fall at the no-fall zone, as I hadn't placed any screw on the fragile pillar, and was only saved by a lanyard… It was more like VI, 5 on this day's condition. But, still… I paid the toll of focusing only mixed climbing in the last couple of years.

with Elinor, Kyle
alan.rodger 27/Feb/16 AltLd

Credit to Gerhard on crux.

Mr. K 27/Feb/16 AltLd O/S

300m of ice climbing under blue skies with no wind, wearing t shirts and sunglasses! An amazing experience, this route deserves ***. We did five roped pitches and soloed the final pitch to the top, bypassing a small icefall. I lead pitch 1 & 3, Masa lead 2 & 4 and Elinor did her first Winter lead on pitch 5. For pitch 4 we took the right-hand branch and climbed a steep, slender ice pitch at a bold grade V. The rest of the route felt fair at III, plenty of easy ground between steeper ice sections. Another team that took the left-hand branch having backed off the thin ice pillar found a brilliant section of ice tucked away out of sight. I'd recommend going left at the top.

Hidden 27/Feb/16 AltLd
guitarshane 27/Feb/16 Lead O/S
with Graham Lorimer
Andrew Lodge 27/Feb/16 AltLd O/S

Fantastic climbing most of the way but the ice turned to sugar near the top which made it interesting, led P2 and P5.

with Tony, Steve
Mike-W-99 26/Feb/16 AltLd O/S

In 5 pitches with a snow plod to the top, led even ones. A good route with some fine situations.

with Fiona
Fiona Reid 26/Feb/16 AltLd O/S

5 pitches then soloed the top snowy section. Led odd pitches. Route in great condition. Pitch 5 was excellent, 2 & 4 weren't bad either. Lovely weather and no wind.

with Mike
Hidden 25/Feb/16 AltLd
davidswannn 24/Feb/16 AltLd

Ice varied between crud and bullet hard. Nice crux just out from first belay. Loads of protection avalable though. A descent IV.

with JWTM
JWTM 24/Feb/16 AltLd O/S
Steve Perry 23/Feb/16 Lead O/S

Lead all pitches in brilliant nick, the last icefall is quality though the lower ones are very good too. Feels more IV than III

with Emilia
Hidden 23/Feb/16 2nd O/S
Hidden 23/Feb/16 2nd dog
Hidden 21/Feb/16 Solo O/S
andybroadway 17/Feb/16 AltLd O/S
Bob1984 17/Feb/16 AltLd
with Andrew Broadway
Davie.G 16/Feb/16 AltLd O/S
Hidden 04/Feb/16 2nd
tradisrad ??/2016 AltLd O/S
Mike Roger ??/2016 AltLd
mountain musher ??/2016 -
sheffieldchris ??/2016 -
Neil88S ??/2016 2nd
Hidden 03/Mar/15 AltLd
jon59 25/Feb/15 Lead

More snow than on north gully yesterday, first ice pitch very delicate with the next not in condition today, this can be turned on the right. The third and forth ice pitches are long (20m) and great value at grade 3+.

Meinertzhagen 25/Feb/15 2nd
with Jon Evans
djwall 18/Feb/15 AltLd
andrzej kierzek 17/Feb/15 Lead O/S

Lead all pitches. Last step was OK. Lower sections were thin and wet

Rebeccaneal 14/Feb/15 2nd
Hidden 14/Feb/15 2nd
Tightsgirl 14/Feb/15 2nd
arose 14/Feb/15 Lead

Marginal. Very sugary low down but the main pitch was awesome.

with Claire Hoolohan, Hannah Francis
Parkie 08/Feb/15 AltLd

Good condition, glad thankful to whoever had kicked a bucket foothold on the steepest pitch. Great weather, too hot at times and glad of shade at one point.

with Andy B
Liam Ingram 08/Feb/15 AltLd O/S

Baking in the sun. I thought the ice was a bit cruddy and melty in places but apparently it was just me....

catrin289 08/Feb/15 AltLd O/S

Sunny and warm!

franhammond92 07/Feb/15 AltLd O/S

Great day out. Fat ice and fun moves. Lead P2

shaunhumphreys 07/Feb/15 AltLd O/S
pete1993 07/Feb/15 AltLd O/S

excellent route, really good ice, led the main ice pitch at the top which was good, sustained but no particular hard move

with Shaun, Fran
aljones91 05/Feb/15 AltLd

Awesome route some steep sections felt harder than 3! loved it

with Ben hester
Hidden ?/Feb/15 AltLd
gripped01 31/Jan/15 Lead

Teaching

with Andy Grieves
baileyswalk 24/Jan/15 Lead O/S

Two nice ice pitches, more like grade IV in current conditions. Soloed the rest.

with Jack
johnkeith 22/Jan/15 2nd

Turned out to be a fine day. Top pitch climbed in sunshine - though a bit melty! 2 ice pitches felt steep and long for a Grade 3.

with Michael Sandison
Hidden 17/Jan/15 AltLd
SWalls 17/Jan/15 AltLd
Hidden 17/Jan/15 AltLd O/S
Colin Dyer 25/Mar/14 AltLd

Very good route with great views and several good ice pitches. Recommended.

with Paul Reilly
SkylarLobdell 09/Mar/14 -

Walked in ambitiously hoping the ice would still be in, we were wrong. Everything is gone, just flowing water over the rocks. Started up the snow field and quickly bailed left onto the buttress to escape the spray. Scrambled up the left-hand buttress to the summit. Warm and wet.

with Joe
Ccmilree 05/Mar/14 2nd
justaddpowder 05/Mar/14 Lead dnf

walk in and out with strong winds. Did not climb due to very poor snow conditions and lots of ice melt. Climbed out of valley up a horrible loose scramble

with Nathan Robbins, Ccmilree, Keiran O' (K'dog)
Tarquin 04/Mar/14 -

RAF MR Winter Course

brighters 03/Mar/14 AltLd O/S

First ice step was chossy with difficult to place screws. Second ice step was glorious and solid, with screw placements very good. Beautiful route in good weather.

John Roe 03/Mar/14 Lead
with Will Jabore, Alex Fitzpatrick
alastairbegley 02/Mar/14 2nd O/S

Lower two ice steps were rotten, middle step was good as was the top section. Great neve all the way when not on ice. http://www.masterplan-mountaineering.co.uk/2014/03/central-gully-lurchers-crag/

Slick 02/Mar/14 Lead
Hidden 02/Mar/14 2nd
Pete-West88 01/Mar/14 AltLd O/S
with Joel P
michaelb1 01/Mar/14 AltLd

Wonderful day out. A long route, 9 pitches

troybison 01/Mar/14 AltLd
eaf4 01/Mar/14 AltLd O/S
Ewan Russell 28/Feb/14 AltLd O/S
with gwen
mr_drains 27/Feb/14 AltLd O/S

Bottom ice pitch not in nick, Top ice pitch was in great nick but time was against us so by-passed, I'll take a grade II. topped out to gorgeous sunset over sron an lairige but howling wind and squall on lurchers. Great day.

with The Defecator
drsdave 23/Feb/14 2nd

lll/lV with ice pitches. walk in via the Charlamaine gap

with Phil B, Mat
Brucemacrosson 22/Feb/14 Solo

Thick ice & neve. Lovely nick. No loose snow or cornice.

with Simon Opit
Hidden 22/Feb/14 AltLd
joeallen28 22/Feb/14 Lead O/S

Bit windy at the top! in my novice opinion the ice was in good enough nick. What a great day out!

Hidden 22/Feb/14 AltLd
RM199 22/Feb/14 AltLd O/S

Moved together. Could be climbed at grade 3 of 4, we chose grade 4 option

philboy 22/Feb/14 AltLd

Good condition

with Dave, matt g
Hidden 20/Feb/14 AltLd O/S
Lawrie Brand 19/Feb/14 AltLd O/S

Very banked out, took a rib above last icefall on the right to add interest, at about tech 4/5

with Joe Beagly
adam 24 16/Feb/14 Lead O/S

I think I did the left hand finish of this route, but am not totally sure.

Webster 12/Feb/14 AltLd O/S

found the right gully this time! first ice step wasnt great so romped up the neve to the right (which is the more natural gully line anyway!) two main ice steps rather banked out so at the lower end of the grade and all intervening snow was good firm neve. would give it 1 star

Hidden 12/Feb/14 -
jon59 09/Feb/14 Lead

First two pitches up the gully hard work due to snow conditions, ice is good on both ice falls although gear was hard won.

adrian williams 19/Jan/14 2nd O/S
Zoomer 19/Jan/14 Lead O/S

Rain on approach, met a team who backed off. Carried on to 'investigate'. Bottom ice pitch gone, 2nd doable -ish, two chicken shoots avoid these. Roped up for last ice pitch wet but thick, short but stiff for III.

Debbie Lee 17/Jan/14 AltLd
with Ric, Dave Riley
Hidden 17/Jan/14 -
MrRiley 17/Jan/14 AltLd O/S

Stunning weather despite the forecast and nice to find this in reasonable nick. First ice pitch thin but entertaining, second hollow and scary, third fat and blue. A bit too much easy ground to really justify lots of stars though!

Hidden 10/Jan/14 Lead
kes1 09/Feb/13 2nd
Andy Hewison 09/Feb/13 AltLd O/S

Good Route, 4 ice pitches, last one was grade IV but short. Good belays (mainly ice). Ice was good but starting to drip later in the day. Well recommended.

with Iain Robertson
fire_munki 07/Feb/13 2nd O/S
with Al Halewood
Pete23 02/Feb/13 AltLd
with Stephen Mors
morsy 02/Feb/13 AltLd

two good pitches and lots of easy ground. started up an easy introductory gully which arrived at the rhs of the first good pitch-looking at pictures think there's a lower pitch which wasn't well formed today

with peter berwick
markwarner ?/Jan/13 -
tim20 ??/2013 -
justaddpowder 21/Dec/12 AltLd

Right top pitch on 10m ice fall Fell on ice screw

with Leo
Webster 16/Dec/12 AltLd O/S

ice was melting but still pretty thick and plenty good enough for ice screws. lead second ice pitch, moved together through easy mid section. took the right fork at the top which had a short steep ice fall of about grade IV

steve-grigg 16/Dec/12 AltLd O/S
nowler 05/Feb/12 AltLd
with hamish i
Hidden 04/Feb/12 Lead
Steven Andrews 07/Jan/12 AltLd O/S

Three big ice pitches, the bottom one being pretty thin and the top one defineately warrantling IV. Fun place to get out of the wind.

with Arjan
Callum Anderson ??/2012 -
kenneM 19/Dec/11 AltLd
with Steve Crosby-Jones, Steve Marner
size9hex 14/Feb/11 Solo O/S

Not the best conditions, but a good day on a safe-ish route when the northern corries were avalancing. Avoided the lower icefall (wasn't there), swam up deep snow, and climbed a good ice chimney near the top. Probably worth grade II in this condition.

freemanTom 14/Feb/11 Solo

Jedi Solo. Rubbish snow and ice conditions apart from short icy groove on the righthand gully near the top. Avoided early ice pitch as looking really thin. Route we swam up worth about II.

Captain Solo 12/Feb/11 Solo

Still hanging in there despite sun starting to hit it. Turned into a beautiful day and apart from a few walkers heading for Braeriach not another soul around. Can only imagine the carnage going on that is Sneachda on a Saturday.

nokishatov 06/Feb/11 AltLd O/S

50% ice, 50% water

ste_d 05/Feb/11 AltLd O/S
with mik
Hidden 30/Jan/11 AltLd O/S
Hidden 30/Jan/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 09/Jan/11 AltLd
John Workman 09/Jan/11 2nd
with Apprentice
hedgehog77 07/Jan/11 2nd
Hidden 05/Jan/11 AltLd O/S
Mr.Billiams 03/Jan/11 AltLd
with Tom
Hidden ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 -
PAJames ??/2011 -
Hidden 13/Feb/10 AltLd
Hidden ?/Feb/10 AltLd
Hidden 11/Jan/10 -
nicjbuk 28/Jan/09 AltLd
calumalien 22/Mar/08 AltLd O/S
with Nath
Hidden 19/Jan/08 Lead O/S
dthomson 12/Jan/08 -
with pete mayhew
JdotP 12/Jan/08 Lead O/S

A big day out! Lovely weather.

with Sir Faffalot
tallthinmonkey ?/Jan/08 Lead O/S

Awesome and quiet. Good choice if northern corries are stuffed

with Ewan Paterson
Ander 07/Jan/03 AltLd
Hidden 22/Feb/01 AltLd O/S
EllieWoods 03/Feb/01 2nd O/S
with Iestyn
Hidden ??/2001 Solo
Hidden ??/2001 Lead
Tarquin ??/1999 -
Hidden ?/Jan/98 2nd O/S
nickdonohue 19/Mar/96 AltLd
with Caley Latham
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Voting
High IV
Mid IV
Low IV
High III
Mid III
Low III
High II/III
Mid II/III
Low II/III
Votes cast 40
High 5
Mid 5
Low 5
High 4
Mid 4
Low 4
High 3
Mid 3
Low 3
Votes cast 11
Votes cast 37
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Not Set
Onsighted
DNF
Dogged
Repeated
Ground Up
Not Set