Rockfax Description
A very sustained and imposing line that weaves its way up the wall left of the corner of Il Duce. Start at the bottom of the rocky ramp that slopes seawards below the gearing-up spot.
1) 5a, 20m. Il Duce pitch 1.
2) 5c, 20m. From the left end of the ledge, follow a chimney/groove through the overhangs until it pinches out. Climb diagonally rightwards to a narrow ledge, then move back up and left to a ledge and belay.
3) 5c, 20m. Climb rightwards on compact rock, heading for a prominent overlap. Follow this until it closes, and make tricky moves up to a ledge. Follow this rightwards, past an overlap, to a belay.
4) 5a, 10m. The corner above leads to a bulge, where moves on the bulging rib to the right gain ledges leading rightwards to a stance on Il Duce.
5) 4c, 24m. Il Duce pitch 4. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
Serious! don't rely on the peg mentioned in the North Cornwall guide, its so rotten you would'nt hang your coat on it!
West Country Climbs , Alex's Cornwall and Devon ticklist , Ultimate E4 ticklist , South West in Extremis
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Grade: E4 5c ***
(Carn Gowla)