The direct line up the left facing chimney/groove on the right side of the front face of Central Buttress.

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3 star Scottish winter, Scottish Winter IV-VII

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Logged Ascents

User Date Style Notes & Partners
Hidden ?? Lead
tiga271 27 Feb, 2018 2nd
phil64 27 Feb, 2018 Lead Good and steep ice. Ab. In
with Simon Rankin
Good and steep ice. Ab. In
with Simon Rankin
The Grist 25 Feb, 2018 Lead O/S
with Andy Thomason
with Andy Thomason
crowberry gully 23 Feb, 2018 - Excellent ice
with Richard Bentley
Excellent ice
with Richard Bentley
LucaC 9 Feb, 2018 Lead O/S Led all the pitches. Ran p1+2 together in one big 55m solo- super icy but no runners.
Led all the pitches. Ran p1+2 together in one big 55m solo- super icy but no runners.
Hidden 9 Mar, 2016 2nd β
Hidden 4 Mar, 2016 -
Andy Moles 27 Feb, 2016 Lead O/S Moving together
with Calum Muskett
Moving together
with Calum Muskett
Flett 12 Feb, 2015 2nd
andymcronald 11 Feb, 2015 2nd With Louisa Reynolds, Abacus Mountaineering and Ritchie Slessor. Abseiled 60m down into Easy Gully from Plateau, then traversed around to the foot of Typhoon. Great conditions although some bulging ice and tricky sections. Usually graded IV, Guide believed it was more like grade V. Bear Grylls was also filming near easy gully for National Geographic.
With Louisa Reynolds, Abacus Mountaineering and Ritchie Slessor. Abseiled 60m down into Easy Gully from Plateau, then traversed around to the foot of Typhoon. Great conditions although some bulging ice and tricky sections. Usually graded IV, Guide believed it was more like grade V. Bear Grylls was also filming near easy gully for National Geographic.
Dougbart 4 Jan, 2015 AltLd dnf Abbed of after second pitch, gully not complete and very thin ice. Good climbing though
with Iain
Abbed of after second pitch, gully not complete and very thin ice. Good climbing though
with Iain
Hidden 4 Jan, 2015 AltLd dnf
James Gordon ??, 2015 -
bandersnatch ??, 2015 -
with Mairi B
with Mairi B
Hidden 30 Dec, 2014 Lead O/S
Palindrome 30 Dec, 2014 2nd O/S
Iain_L_32 4 Feb, 2014 2nd
ste_d 17 Mar, 2013 AltLd O/S
Mike_d78 17 Mar, 2013 AltLd O/S Felt pretty hard. Buried, with thin poor ice underneath. A fantastic day tho.
with ste_d
Felt pretty hard. Buried, with thin poor ice underneath. A fantastic day tho.
with ste_d
adie84 ??, 2013 -
Hidden 10 Feb, 2012 AltLd dnf
Hidden 10 Feb, 2012 Lead
Hidden 3 Feb, 2012 AltLd
Liam FLeming 3 Feb, 2012 -
Hidden 27 Jan, 2012 Lead
Clevelandclimber 27 Jan, 2012 Lead
Hidden 27 Jan, 2012 2nd
Hidden ?Dec, 2011 2nd O/S
Ken Applegate 17 Feb, 2011 Lead Great route! Good protection on the right wall, with the odd patch of good ice for screws. Crux was good fun!
with Jorge, Fabien
Great route! Good protection on the right wall, with the odd patch of good ice for screws. Crux was good fun!
with Jorge, Fabien
akhughes 30 Jan, 2011 Lead O/S did whist working. good climbing never hard and good belays. Took an hour or so.
did whist working. good climbing never hard and good belays. Took an hour or so.
colenn 3 Jan, 2011 AltLd O/S
with Peter Britton
with Peter Britton
bridget143 1 Jan, 2011 2nd O/S Did this in 4 pitches, Matt led slabby P1, James chimney, buldge to belay P2 then James again P3 up corner to base of snowy top out P4.
with Matt Freear, jamestheyip
Did this in 4 pitches, Matt led slabby P1, James chimney, buldge to belay P2 then James again P3 up corner to base of snowy top out P4.
with Matt Freear, jamestheyip
jamestheyip 1 Jan, 2011 AltLd O/S Record for late start. 3:15 at first pitch. Climbed mostly in the dark. Good mixed climbing with well protected crux. Should have use 60m ropes would have saved 1 pitch.
with Matt Freear, bridget143
Record for late start. 3:15 at first pitch. Climbed mostly in the dark. Good mixed climbing with well protected crux. Should have use 60m ropes would have saved 1 pitch.
with Matt Freear, bridget143
Hidden ??, 2011 -
luckyjim ??, 2011 AltLd
with tom ballard
with tom ballard
Spongebob 31 Dec, 2010 2nd O/S
Misha 3 Apr, 2010 AltLd O/S The route was thawing but still climbable, though the ice and neve were getting dodgy in places. Tom did P1 on ice that sounded worryingly hollow. I got the mixed P2, which was meant to have been followed by a steep ice pitch but instead there was more mixed ground. In the end did a 40 metre pitch to just below the end of the difficulties, belaying on a fairly steep section as I had run out of quickdraws and slings by that stage and couldn't see any belay points higher up. There were several cruxy sections, probably made harder by the conditions. Certainly good 5 but probably only IV as generally well protected by rock gear. Tom finished off on easy ground. Had to leg it down to the gondola station.
with Tom
The route was thawing but still climbable, though the ice and neve were getting dodgy in places. Tom did P1 on ice that sounded worryingly hollow. I got the mixed P2, which was meant to have been followed by a steep ice pitch but instead there was more mixed ground. In the end did a 40 metre pitch to just below the end of the difficulties, belaying on a fairly steep section as I had run out of quickdraws and slings by that stage and couldn't see any belay points higher up. There were several cruxy sections, probably made harder by the conditions. Certainly good 5 but probably only IV as generally well protected by rock gear. Tom finished off on easy ground. Had to leg it down to the gondola station.
with Tom
John Carney 11 Mar, 2010 2nd O/S Unevenly iced slabs and difficult chimney/groove leading to a steep but more thickly iced corner with good protection in the rock. Third pitch is the crux, climbable this time via the LH groove, and made more difficult by spindrift pouring down. A splendid tough West Coast classic!
with Rob Jarvis
Unevenly iced slabs and difficult chimney/groove leading to a steep but more thickly iced corner with good protection in the rock. Third pitch is the crux, climbable this time via the LH groove, and made more difficult by spindrift pouring down. A splendid tough West Coast classic!
with Rob Jarvis
lost.arrow 14 Feb, 2010 AltLd
with Stu Sherwood
with Stu Sherwood
alan wilson ?Jan, 2009 Lead 1 screw at middle of steep overhanging corner bit, no cornice.
with n smith
1 screw at middle of steep overhanging corner bit, no cornice.
with n smith
Hidden ??, 2009 2nd
steveb2006 24 Mar, 2008 Lead Good ice route. Felt hard
Good ice route. Felt hard
DavidBarraclough ?Mar, 2007 -
Hidden ?Feb, 2000 AltLd
Hidden ??, 2000 AltLd
Dave Almond ??, 1999 AltLd Introduction to Mark`s rack, 2 wires only!
with Mark Edwards
Introduction to Mark`s rack, 2 wires only!
with Mark Edwards
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Voting
High V
Mid V
Low V
High IV
Mid IV
Low IV
High III
Mid III
Low III
Votes cast 10
High 5
Mid 5
Low 5
High 4
Mid 4
Low 4
High 3
Mid 3
Low 3
Votes cast 9
Votes cast 8
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Not Set
Onsighted
DNF
Flashed (β)
Not Set