SMC Description
80m. A strenuous route climbing cracks in the wall just right of Auricle. The crux is well protected (but a bold start) if the wide crack is not verglassed. Start as for Auricle.
1) 30m. Climb the crack and chimney, then move right to climb a bulging crack-line into a recess. Pull even more steeply out of this to below a wide crack 3m right of Auricle's crux groove.
2) 10m. Climb the crack (crux), Friend 3.5 and 4 useful.
3) 10m. Move up right by two short corners to a ledge.
4) 15m. Climb a thin crack 2m right of the belay.
5) 15m. Cross the crevasse and finish up a deep crack. © SMC

LJC 18/Feb Lead G/U

Bailed from ventricle onto this. Took the whip on the crack pitch, got it second go using a hand instead of an axe. We also did some random variations at the bottom to get on route.

with Peter
Hidden 14/Feb AltLd rpt
Hidden 13/Feb AltLd dog
Hidden 09/Mar/16 Lead dnf
wi11 08/Mar/16 AltLd dnf

Crampon to arm. Lots of unhelpful snow

Pete Graham ?/Dec/15 AltLd dog
with Robert Taylor
Roberttaylor 30/Nov/15 AltLd dog

One fall on p2, I led p1 and p3. Felt hard.

Hidden 22/Nov/15 AltLd dog
Brian Pollock 10/Feb/15 Lead dnf

Plastered and felt nails. Clean onsight of pitch 1. Small fall on crux battling to find something to pull on. Ran away, truly spanked. Will be back.

with Craig
Ally Baba 20/Jan/15 Lead O/S

Mega route. Lead the whole thing, which was pretty tiring.

with Gav Swinton
French Erick 07/Dec/13 AltLd dnf

Nemesis route now failed twice. That P2 wide crack is nails. 2 falls

Hidden 25/Nov/13 AltLd O/S
andyinglis 04/Nov/12 AltLd

Small slip at 3m up P1 (ventricle crack), lower to the ground and did the pitch clean then onsighted P2-P4. Helen led P5. Good route, lots of tricky climbing.

with Helen Renard
Hidden 28/Jan/12 AltLd
Smith42 14/Jan/12 AltLd O/S
with Lindsay Yule
Dave Almond 11/Dec/11 AltLd

Finally done. It’s easy when you know how!

halfmanhalfbiscuit 11/Dec/11 AltLd

Iced up crack on the crux meant a bold lead from Dave G; perhaps VIII in those conditions, the cams certainly weren't going to prevent the deck out!

mux 11/Dec/11 AltLd O/S

Quite a lot of Ver Glas made protecting it quite difficult so it felt hard for the grade that day.

with Pete Harrison
zero six ?/Dec/11 AltLd
Hidden ?/Dec/11 AltLd O/S
phil64 21/Jan/11 Lead O/S

nicely iced so cams dont work...haha

with stu mc, dave evans
Hidden ??/2009 AltLd
French Erick 20/Jan/08 AltLd dnf

got spanked on pitch 2. pitch one summer route variation (alternative since done auricle last year) was tenuous and verglassed, slow going.

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High VII
High VI
Mid VI
Low VI
Votes cast 13
High 8
Mid 8
Low 8
High 7
Mid 7
Low 7
High 6
Mid 6
Low 6
Votes cast 12
Votes cast 9
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Ground Up
Not Set