Rockfax Description
Wildly exposed moves in an outrageous location mark out the top pitch of this intimidating line. Start at an easy-angled line of weakness that runs up rightwards to beneath a black wall known as the Coal Face.
1) 5a, 30m. Follow the line of weakness rightwards for around 10m until a direct line can be taken past a groove, ledge and corner to a stance on the arete at a large block - the Pedestal stance. The left arete of 'The Coal Face' can also be climbed to the stance and belay, at the same grade.
2) 5b, 28m. Climb up a thin crack in the Coal Face to the first overhangs. Traverse left and move up a groove to a slab that leads to below the upper overhangs. Make committing and very exposed moves out rightwards past an old peg to a sudden easing and a stance above.
3) 10m. The easy wall above to the top. © Rockfax

Ticklists: Extreme Rock, West Country Climbs, Ultimate E3 ticklist, The 30 best E3 routes in the UK?, The best the UK has to offer for beasts (apart from the lakes cos its always wet), The best the UK has to offer for mere mortals (apart from the lakes cos its always wet).

Hidden 31/Aug/17 AltLd O/S
Dave Musgrove Jnr 31/Aug/17 Lead O/S

Great route, classic trad fun.

with Viv
Dan724 13/Aug/17 AltLd O/S
with Ian Grabowski
Master Chief 02/Jul/17 AltLd dog

Had to rest twice. John lead hard pitches. Great climbing!

Spearos 02/Jul/17 AltLd dog

Gutted I didn't get the o/s, the peg CAN be trusted!

Hidden 30/May/17 AltLd O/S
Alice Thompson ?/May/17 Lead O/S
The Grist 12/Apr/17 AltLd O/S

Led the main pitch. The peg looks untrustworthy. Great traverse.

Hidden 16/Feb/17 AltLd O/S
Flavio 16/Feb/17 AltLd O/S
Frank the Husky ??/2017 -
Rocky 17/Sep/16 AltLd O/S
with Remus
Hidden 17/Sep/16 AltLd O/S
Marti999 24/Aug/16 AltLd
with Vic
Ian MK 07/Aug/16 Lead O/S

First E3 :)

Hidden 16/Jul/16 Lead dnf
beni 02/Jul/16 Lead O/S
Wendy Watthews 02/Jul/16 2nd O/S
with Beni
kyaizawa 18/Jun/16 AltLd O/S

What an adventure!! Lead p2 and thought the space walking experience probably beats Bow Wall (though as a whole route, Bow Wall maintains better interest). Dampness in the cracks and undercuts added a slight extra element of uncertainty, but didn't render the route impossible. Amazing exposure on an impressive route, very happy to have got this o/s and has to be one of the best routes around!! Great way to wrap up the week in Cornwall!!

with Rowan Chesmer
m.powell02 04/Jun/16 2nd β
switch 01/Jun/16 Lead O/S
with Andy S
Hidden 06/Sep/15 Lead O/S
LJC 27/Jun/15 Lead O/S

P1, then abbed from pinnacle stance due to seriously greasy conditions.

with Will
ian d f 23/May/15 AltLd O/S

led p2 & 3

pearson9596 23/May/15 AltLd O/S
Hidden 21/Aug/14 AltLd O/S
Hidden 08/Aug/14 AltLd
Hidden 27/Jul/14 Lead O/S
Alex Mason 22/Jul/14 Lead O/S


with Jemma Powell
Ewan Russell 17/Jul/14 AltLd O/S

Lead 2nd which was nearly as greasy as my face. URGH

with Tom Nichols
Anusky 24/Apr/14 2nd O/S
Hidden 14/Apr/14 AltLd O/S
kingholmesy ??/2014 AltLd O/S

Led p1 & p2. A cold and windy but beautiful November day.

with Colin
mike mo ??/2014 -
AlexD 18/Sep/13 AltLd O/S
with Ed
Ed Babs 18/Sep/13 AltLd O/S

P2 + 3. Ace

with AlexD
Justin T 01/Sep/13 AltLd O/S


with Dave
Bristoldave 01/Sep/13 AltLd O/S

Led p2

with justin
Misha 15/May/13 AltLd O/S

With Davor on the BMC international meet - he led the business pitch. Perhaps it's the difference between leading and seconding but I didn't think it warranted more than the top end E2 5b that Bow Wall's main pitch gets. Great climbing all the way. Davor did P2&3 in one.

with Davor
Wil Treasure 13/May/13 Lead O/S

Great route.

with Viktor
Pieterjan De Roo 13/May/13 AltLd O/S
msoldn 09/Sep/12 AltLd O/S

2nd pitch, wild wild wild!!! wet undercuts and smeary polished footholds made this airy travers feel very much touch and go. Fabulous outing!

with Johannes
belay bunny turned bad 20/Aug/12 AltLd O/S
with loundsy
Hidden 20/Aug/12 AltLd O/S
Hidden 28/Jul/12 Lead
Jen Crook 28/Jul/12 2nd
Mike W 09/Jul/12 Lead O/S
with bigrob
Hidden 09/Jul/12 AltLd
Hidden 29/Jun/12 2nd dnf
Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing ?/May/12 AltLd O/S
with Alex Haslehurst
Pete Graham 28/Feb/12 AltLd
with Ben Silvestre
Dan Arkle ??/2012 Lead
Hidden ??/2012 Lead O/S
Hidden 19/Aug/11 AltLd O/S
pezzerrr 19/Aug/11 AltLd O/S
CRiddiford 23/Jun/11 2nd O/S


with Tom, Mike
thomasadixon 22/Jun/11 AltLd O/S

Lead the crux pitch. Pure class, felt soft for the E grade tho long legged Mike said it was nails. Best route I've done on this crag.

colesy 18/Jun/11 Lead O/S
tuftynick 30/May/11 2nd rpt
Hidden 30/May/11 Lead
quiffhanger 29/May/11 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2011 -
Jack Geldard ??/2011 -
GeoffG ??/2011 -
mwatson ??/2011 -
Marcus ??/2011 -
nick arding 18/Oct/10 Lead O/S
with rob pitt
Rob Pitt 01/Sep/10 AltLd O/S

Led 4c pitch

with Nick Arding
Dave Turnbull, BMC 24/Jul/10 2nd

Led in the early 90s

with Matt Ward
Brown 19/Jul/10 2nd O/S
with Ben Lepesant
Hidden 16/Jun/10 AltLd O/S
Little AndyH 16/Jun/10 AltLd

first pitch

jacobjacob 12/Jun/10 AltLd O/S

lead the middle pitch, the traverse puts you in an amazing position!

eddy-on-the-rocks 23/May/10 Lead O/S

Lots of long slings and cams form small to size 2 useful. Grand.

with max
Harald 14/May/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 14/May/10 2nd
Luke Brooks 19/Sep/09 AltLd O/S
Bobby Gilbert 19/Jun/09 Lead O/S

Can't remember exact date but summer 2009

with Alan Dovey
Hidden 24/May/09 AltLd O/S
Hidden ?/Jun/08 AltLd
HughM ?/Jun/08 2nd dog
with David Barlow
tuftynick ??/2008 -
chris j 05/Sep/07 AltLd O/S

2nded 5b pitch, awesome route!

with Ben Bradford
KRB 07/Aug/07 Lead O/S

Great positions - looks harder than it is

with Martin Bridges
Hidden 10/Jul/07 AltLd
climber sim ??/2007 -
pete johnson ?/Aug/06 Lead O/S
with Rick Newcombe
hal ?/Jun/06 AltLd dog
with Virgil Scott
Kyuzo ?/Jun/06 Lead O/S
with Hal Watts
feilx 13/May/06 Lead rpt
with keith
Hidden 05/May/06 Lead O/S
wojt ??/2006 Lead
leadmat ??/2006 Lead
Mark Stevenson 02/Apr/05 AltLd O/S
William Robertson ??/2005 Lead O/S
with Mark Calver
Hidden 21/Aug/03 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2003 AltLd dog
PaulTanton 03/Jun/02 AltLd O/S
Chris Reid 03/Jun/02 Lead O/S
with Paul Tanton
jfletcher 27/May/01 Lead
JulesV ??/2001 Lead O/S
Hidden 03/Jun/00 -
Tom Briggs - Jagged Globe ??/2000 Lead
Steve Crowe 14/Jun/99 Lead O/S
with KM
Nigel Coe ??/1998 Lead dnf

Pitch 2 was wet so we down-climbed Suicide Wall. Rough date.

with Tim Dunsby
Si Clapham ??/1998 Lead
with Moggs
DavidBarraclough ??/1998 Lead O/S
duncan 19/Apr/97 Lead O/S
phardman ??/1997 -
ded ??/1997 Lead O/S
Hidden 21/May/95 Lead O/S
mattnuttall 24/Jul/94 Lead O/S
with Alan Holden
sdht ??/1994 2nd
with Andy Stotesbury
whispering nic ?/May/92 -
with Graham Iles
Nick Biven 31/Dec/91 AltLd O/S

Rich lead crux pitch

with Rich Whitwell
Glenn Sutcliffe 25/May/91 -
with keefe
keefe 25/May/91 -
Hidden 27/Mar/91 2nd
Hidden 08/Sep/90 2nd
andy gittins ??/1990 -
pauldrew ??/1990 2nd
with Dominic Leggett
Bullybones ??/1990 -
Bruce Kerr 12/Jul/89 2nd
with Keith Turton
Campbell42 02/Aug/88 AltLd O/S
with Mike Waters
Billg 10/Aug/87 2nd
with Keith Sharples
Neil R 24/May/87 2nd
with Ian
William Robertson ??/1987 Lead O/S
with Emily, Steve, Shaun etc
Seymore Butt ??/1986 Lead
with Ian Fenton
charlesmfrench 28/Jul/85 AltLd O/S


with Ian Milne
Hidden 04/May/85 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/1982 Lead
Roy Stuart ??/1982 Lead O/S
with Billy Bones
Hammy 13/Aug/81 2nd
with Rob Lawson
Hidden ?/Jul/81 -
Mark Kemball 23/Apr/81 Lead
with Bill McKee
Hidden 21/Apr/81 AltLd
Marcus ??/1980 -
Marcus ??/1980 -
Marcus ??/1980 -
Paul Clarke ??/1980 -
with Others, FMC
Marcus ??/1980 -
Mike Owen 26/May/79 2nd β
with Gavin Peat
Steve Lewis 27/Nov/76 AltLd O/S
with sharpie
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High E4
Mid E4
Low E4
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
Votes cast 24
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
Votes cast 24
Votes cast 16
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Not Set