UKC

78m, 5 pitches.

Rockfax Description
A legendary Cornish classic that traces an exposed line across the blankest section of Bosigran's Main Face. Start at an easy-angled line of weakness that runs up rightwards to beneath a black wall known as the Coal Face.
1) 25m. Follow the weakness to a belay under the Coal Face.
2) 4b, 14m. Move up the corner right of the Coal Face to the start of a thin diagonal crack that runs up left across the Coal Face. Climb the crack to a large block on the arete and belay - the Pedestal stance.
3) 5a, 15m. Follow flakes leftwards across the wall above the Pedestal and move up to a wide break and good cams. Traverse the break a short way left until it is possible to gain a small ledge and belay below a smooth groove.
4) 5c, 9m. Some very hard but well-protected moves start the groove, which eases just before a belay ledge is reached a short distance above.
5) 4b, 15m. Move up the leaning corner above the belay for a few metres before swinging rightwards on good holds out of the corner to easier climbing and the top. Climbing the leaning corner direct is the strenuous top pitch of Paragon 5a. © Rockfax

Ticklists

Hard Rock , Kernow , West Country Climbs , MIA logbook must haves! , Ultimate E1 ticklist , The BMC 70th Anniversary Ticklist , Caff's Cool E1s List , CUC Climbing Club, Part 1: The Classics , The best the UK has to offer for mere mortals (apart from the lakes cos its always wet) , 100 Best South West Mid Grade Routes , The Ultimate SUMC Ticklist , Extreme 2018 , Adventure ticklist 2018 , BMG Application Rock (Unofficial) , Coronation Street , University of Exeter must tick's , Hard Rock 2020 , Cool Names , UK Sandbags , The E1 UK Roadtrip , South West Climbs - Pat Littlejohn (1st Ed.) , Hard Rock 2020 , Pre-departure , 2021 Ticklist , Cornwall , Top 25 E Grades in the southwest , South West in Extremis , Kernow , Devon and surrounding counties, 51 E1, some E2, 1 E3 and an E9

Feedback

User Date Notes
Lewy890 16 Oct, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: First peg at the end of pitch 2 is looking iffy. One has also broke at pitch 4 but the other one next to it still looks okay. Would still back up though.
Show beta
βeta: First peg at the end of pitch 2 is looking iffy. One has also broke at pitch 4 but the other one next to it still looks okay. Would still back up though.
meghananne 12 Jun, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: one of the old pitons broke on me yesterday so would be very hesitant to trust the other one at all now as well
βeta?
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βeta: one of the old pitons broke on me yesterday so would be very hesitant to trust the other one at all now as well
Tall Oak 16 Oct, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: Ended up doing a horizonal worm to get to the third pitch. Very funny. The very bleak wall section was hard. Very intimidating and use of feet was a new height. Luckily Steve was shouting beta at me as otherwise I would have been a mess. The final pitch was a bruiser. Had the wrong beta as off-widthed up into the cave only to go out and then back in again. Worked myself into a right tiz. Defo did the harder moves for the 5b accent and not the easier version of going up and left. Much cursing later I got up the thing. Crack climbing and off widths are not my speciality.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Ended up doing a horizonal worm to get to the third pitch. Very funny. The very bleak wall section was hard. Very intimidating and use of feet was a new height. Luckily Steve was shouting beta at me as otherwise I would have been a mess. The final pitch was a bruiser. Had the wrong beta as off-widthed up into the cave only to go out and then back in again. Worked myself into a right tiz. Defo did the harder moves for the 5b accent and not the easier version of going up and left. Much cursing later I got up the thing. Crack climbing and off widths are not my speciality.
David Clover 23 Sep, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: Running pitch 3 and 4 (traverse from pedestal and tough groove) together is a must to make it safe. Factor 2 on the belay with a broken peg is danger city, just so happens to be the crux too.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Running pitch 3 and 4 (traverse from pedestal and tough groove) together is a must to make it safe. Factor 2 on the belay with a broken peg is danger city, just so happens to be the crux too.
David Clover 23 Oct, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Not easy for the grade. Significant factor 2 fall onto the (poor) belay on the crux pitch if you botch the first few moves which helpfully, are very polished.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Not easy for the grade. Significant factor 2 fall onto the (poor) belay on the crux pitch if you botch the first few moves which helpfully, are very polished.
Steph Ward 22 Oct, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Lead pitches 3 and 4 together (safest way) Great route!! Emma figuired out the 4b finnish which is so confusing and hard!!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Lead pitches 3 and 4 together (safest way) Great route!! Emma figuired out the 4b finnish which is so confusing and hard!!
tonevert 27 May, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: I loved this route had everything. Exposed climbing, two excellent traverses, and a problem to solve further up.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: I loved this route had everything. Exposed climbing, two excellent traverses, and a problem to solve further up.

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High HVS
Mid HVS
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Votes cast 191
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
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Mid 5c
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High 5b
Mid 5b
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Votes cast 185
Votes cast 175
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Not Set
Onsighted
Dogged
DNF
Repeated
Ground Up
Flashed (β)
Redpoint
Not Set
Route of Interest
Midgey, Midge, the Midge

Grade: E1 5b ***
(Geevor)

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