A legendary Cornish classic that traces an exposed line across the blankest section of Bosigran's Main Face. Start at an easy-angled line of weakness that runs up rightwards to beneath a black wall known as the Coal Face.
1) 25m. Follow the weakness to a belay under the Coal Face.
2) 4b, 14m. Move up the corner right of the Coal Face to the start of a thin diagonal crack that runs up left across the Coal Face. Climb the crack to a large block on the arete and belay - the Pedestal stance.
3) 5a, 15m. Follow flakes leftwards across the wall above the Pedestal and move up to a wide break and good cams. Traverse the break a short way left until it is possible to gain a small ledge and belay below a smooth groove.
4) 5c, 9m. Some very hard but well-protected moves start the groove, which eases just before a belay ledge is reached a short distance above.
5) 4b, 15m. Move up the leaning corner above the belay for a few metres before swinging rightwards on good holds out of the corner to easier climbing and the top. Climbing the leaning corner direct is the strenuous top pitch of Paragon 5a. © Rockfax
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