UKC

90m, 4 pitches. Hopefully a helpful description:
Start at the base of a chimney 20m left of the Clanger, big spike for belay.
P1: 20m Traverse up right over a spike and then down, round and up to the base of the slab crack
P2: 20m Climb the right hand crack up to and through the roof. Traverse left along a ledge to belay tat.
P3: 20m climb the left crack/edge up to below the obvious overhanging chimney. The belay is good, but is really tight for space.
P4: 30m thrutch up the chimney and continue up steep but safe ground to some rope slung around a spike.
Either continue more easiy to the top, or abseil back down the route.
If in a rush, P1&2 could be combined, but it's best to set up at the base of P2 for taking photos. Combining P2&3 gives a great 40m pitch but the belay stance below the chimney isn't great. Suggest belay at top of P2 and combining P3&4.

ClimberDateStyle
Ken Applegate 24/Nov/17 -

Great route, in good condition. Getting to and from the route was a different matter, with a lot of unconsolidated snow sitting on the scree and rocks in Coire na Ciste.

with Steve, Andy H
James Thacker 19/Nov/17 AltLd

Satisfactory

Misha 05/Feb/17 AltLd O/S

Good varied route, generally well protected apart from the thrutchfest chimney but you're unlikely to fall out! Snowed up rock with bits of old neve in places and easy gear. Andy led P1 approach, I did P2 slabby crack, Andy finished it in one 45m pitch. 3 abs to get down, fine if taking care with the ropes - unlike the team which managed to get both their ropes draped over the rock next to the route. Removed and carried out most of them.

with Andy W
Andrew Wilson 05/Feb/17 AltLd O/S
with Misha
MSchobitz 04/Feb/17 AltLd O/S

Led P1,2,5. Slab itself was wonderful! Good lead by Harry on the nails chimney! Made up for him forgetting our second half-rope...

murray 04/Feb/17 AltLd O/S

Started the route around 2:30pm after arriving in fort william on the sleeper at 10 that morning. Second pitch had fantastic hooks. Led p3+4 in one in the dark- pulling over the top of the chimney was desperate and worryingly far from the last gear..

with Will
Hidden 04/Feb/17 AltLd O/S
harry_lewis 04/Feb/17 AltLd dog

slipped off just before the chimney (which was totally desperate)

AmyG 01/Jan/17 AltLd
BrianShackleton 01/Jan/17 AltLd dnf

First 2 pitches to below the chimney then abbed off in fading light and increasingly windy conditions.

RClothier 01/Jan/17 AltLd
with BrianS
Hidden 08/Feb/16 AltLd
andyinglis 27/Jan/16 Lead dnf

White but turf not frozen

with marcello
Hidden ?/Jan/16 2nd
Stuart the postie 12/Dec/15 AltLd
with Andy Clark
Andy Clark 12/Dec/15 AltLd O/S

Great route, gear tricky at the start, a wee bit cruddy and verglassed, improved with height. A good start to the season.

with Postie
michael83 02/Dec/12 AltLd O/S
Hidden 02/Dec/12 AltLd O/S
Luke Brooks 01/Dec/12 AltLd O/S
with Francis
Simon Yearsley 28/Nov/12 AltLd
Hidden 28/Nov/12 AltLd
Hidden 12/Feb/10 AltLd O/S
Hidden 12/Feb/10 AltLd
Neil Adams 24/Jan/10 AltLd O/S

Excellent route - thoroughly enjoyed it. Great climbing and (mostly) good gear. The finish up Pinacle Ridge in the setting sun was pretty special too.

jameshiggins 24/Jan/10 AltLd O/S

Neil got the brilliant slab pitch. Gear good but hard won.

with Neil Adams
sgl 29/Nov/08 AltLd O/S
with Konnie
Hidden 29/Nov/08 AltLd O/S
Hidden ?/Jan/08 AltLd O/S
zero six ??/2007 AltLd O/S
Nick Wallis ??/2005 AltLd O/S
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