UKC

180m, 5 pitches. Upgraded to IV,5 in the latest SMC Scottish Winter Climbs guide. First Pitch (which can be avoided by going gully and following groove) and last pitch hardest.

J.Y.MacDonald, H.W.Turnbull Mar/1934

Ticklists: Chasing the Ephemeral, Winter Aspirations.


ClimberDateStyle
wheelsucker 28/Mar AltLd O/S
with Jack Brooks
jackob 27/Mar AltLd

Did direct start would be a 3* route on any other crag!

Arisdad 27/Mar -
BrianShackleton 25/Mar AltLd

Excellent consolation route having turned back from the upper part of Coire an Ciste which had unsolidated new snow underfoot and poor visibility. Busy, however, so kept pitches short!

with HelenB
charmoz 25/Mar Lead

Quite snowy, good route.

with Dan
HelenB 25/Mar AltLd

Did this after giving up on the planned ice route with just 8 wires... Busy with 4 teams at the bottom together and a team ahead had apparently knocked down a huge block... Did in 5 pitches to work around another pair - I led a short first pitch onto the rock and the fourth.

with BrianS
Hidden 23/Mar AltLd O/S
Felicity Eperon 23/Mar AltLd O/S
Rhys Deane 17/Mar AltLd
with James
Hugh Simons 10/Mar AltLd rpt
with Appleby
Appleby 10/Mar AltLd
Hidden 19/Feb AltLd
morsy 12/Feb AltLd
with andy buckley
andybuckley 12/Feb AltLd

Shorter and easier than expected

with morsy
Pete_Stewart 10/Feb AltLd O/S

In 4 pitches. Led 2 and 4

Samuel Wainwright 03/Feb AltLd O/S
Si 02/Feb AltLd
with wi11
wi11 02/Feb AltLd O/S
with Si
gregorhogg 07/Jan 2nd
with Karol Wojcik
ConorWalter 04/Jan -

First Scottish Winter climb w/guide Andy. Perfect conditions !

with Culann
Swiss Tony ??/2018 -
Andrew Wilson 29/Dec/17 AltLd O/S

Very loose in places. Probably more fun when plastered in Neve. Still enjoyable, did the direct start.

mattnuttall 29/Dec/17 AltLd O/S

Lot of yesterdays fresh powder has scoured off overnight. Lean and tough today, especially lower chimney which would not have been out of place on a V. No neve in cracks but turf frozen and on the upside gear easier to find.

SJPowderham1 01/Dec/17 AltLd

Lead latter piches

martinbettridge06 01/Dec/17 Lead O/S
Nathan Adam 25/Nov/17 AltLd rpt

Approach over snow covered scree and rock/slabs was horrible. A bit loose to start with but surprisingly frozen otherwise.

GlennWatson 22/Mar/17 AltLd
with Ken Christie
Hidden 08/Mar/17 Lead rpt
Mattlloyd10 06/Mar/17 -
BillyR 04/Mar/17 2nd
Stuart Hurworth 04/Mar/17 AltLd O/S

Great route! So much fun packed into the mid-section. Slightly dodgy feeling snow ramp traverse up to the start, felt nervy (should have just walked round)! Then did climb from base of gully rather that straight up. Lead mid pitch, steep at start but excellent placements everywhere! Abbed from slightly below summit, think move up there is tricky, maybe that and the start are the 5 bit?.

Andrew Holden 04/Mar/17 AltLd
with Tom Cox
Hidden 04/Mar/17 AltLd
Hidden 04/Mar/17 AltLd O/S
MaccMark 04/Mar/17 AltLd
Tom Cox 04/Mar/17 AltLd
67hours 03/Mar/17 AltLd O/S

P1,3. Did it in 3.

Rob.bonnet 03/Mar/17 AltLd O/S

Used the direct start, crack is dry. Did a traverse with insitu nut to reach the crack, a few crux moves then it gets easier, good Gears. P2 is very nice too, easy approach and descent makes it a good choice for a short day, combines nicely to E ridge

alastairbegley 03/Mar/17 AltLd O/S

Enjoyable route. Lead p2.

with 67hours
rwight 02/Mar/17 2nd

Lots of fresh snow

Tom.Priestley 02/Mar/17 AltLd O/S

Led P2. Did the proper P1 which wasn't that bad and the whole thing was very well protected. Great climb!

Hidden 02/Mar/17 Lead
Hidden 01/Mar/17 Lead O/S
Finn Curry 28/Feb/17 2nd
with Paul Warnock
Hidden 23/Feb/17 Lead
Fiona Hughes 23/Feb/17 2nd
with SP
Hidden 13/Feb/17 2nd
sparkybatteryboy 13/Feb/17 2nd
niallsash 11/Feb/17 Lead

Plenty of snow but of little use.

Piglet69 11/Feb/17 2nd
rob16 10/Feb/17 AltLd
Hidden 04/Feb/17 2nd O/S
Hidden 09/Jan/17 Lead
Andrew Nelson ??/2017 -
abbeywall 19/Nov/16 AltLd
with FM
Chris Hannaby 19/Nov/16 2nd O/S
Jameskelly200 02/Apr/16 AltLd O/S
with Neil butterton, Andy Wilson
7toes 30/Mar/16 -
LanceSolf 29/Mar/16 2nd
Hidden 28/Mar/16 AltLd O/S
Stuart the postie 28/Mar/16 AltLd

Unfriendly snow conditions, didn't want to go higher!!

with Andy Clark
benwmorgan 23/Feb/16 2nd
ian.ross.bnc 23/Feb/16 2nd
Hidden 22/Feb/16 Lead rpt
cmars89 21/Feb/16 Lead O/S

Covered in fresh snow, route selection took a while. -20C with the windchill. Proper Scottish conditions!

Shuttsie 17/Feb/16 2nd
nation1 17/Feb/16 AltLd
with Dave Payne
Dave Payne 10/Feb/16 AltLd

Good conditions

andrzej kierzek 08/Feb/16 Lead O/S

My first route on Ben. Started from West Gully to do grade III route. The crux on our first pitch still felt harder then III. Last pitch was scary in unconsolidated snow.

with Kj
CaelanB 06/Feb/16 AltLd O/S

started from a little up west gully as we'd traversed the douglas gap having plodded half the way around the ben to find any routes in safe nick

elliptic 06/Feb/16 AltLd
with Andy D., Max
andy dunn 06/Feb/16 2nd
Hidden 04/Feb/16 2nd O/S
sacdenouilles ?/Feb/16 AltLd
with J F Philippe, D Pemble
wchan 31/Jan/16 2nd O/S
olekemi 31/Jan/16 AltLd rpt

In from Jacknife. Again.

with Mark G
murray 29/Jan/16 2nd O/S
Hidden 29/Jan/16 Lead O/S
davkeo 28/Jan/16 Lead O/S
lindsay yule 17/Jan/16 AltLd

Great route. Interesting all the way to the end. Good gear but some loose block in places.

with David Coburn
Hidden 16/Jan/16 2nd
Hidden 16/Jan/16 Lead rpt
Hannah Evans 14/Jan/16 AltLd
with Steve Holmes
Hidden 13/Jan/16 AltLd rpt
joeflan 12/Jan/16 Lead O/S

First route on the Ben

DundeeDave 10/Jan/16 AltLd

Covering of snow made placements and gear tricky to find. Great day no wind, 0c and great visibility.

Hugh Simons 06/Jan/16 AltLd O/S

Moved together the whole way. More like III, 4 (given III in SMC Ben Nevis book) as there is loads of protection possible and there isn't really a tech 5 move anywhere. Really fun route!

Martin McKenna - UKC 06/Jan/16 AltLd O/S

Moved together

duncanbutler ??/2016 2nd
guitarshane 27/Dec/15 AltLd O/S
Chrismith 27/Dec/15 AltLd O/S
Nathan Adam 25/Dec/15 Lead rpt

Good fun with good hooks, nice way to get rid of the early season cobwebs!

dakidunn 15/Apr/15 AltLd
with BnB
michaelb1 02/Apr/15 AltLd

Absolutely superb, good runners and belays. One very hard section

with M Tighe
Jordangask 24/Mar/15 2nd
mark-abz 02/Mar/15 2nd
with Michael B, Matt S
robin8234 01/Mar/15 AltLd
Peter Metcalfe 28/Feb/15 AltLd
with K Mckay, Pete Glasper
K Mckay 28/Feb/15 AltLd O/S
with Peter Metcalfe, Pete Glasper
Shaw Brown 21/Feb/15 AltLd
with loz01
Siobhann 19/Feb/15 2nd O/S
Stani49 17/Feb/15 2nd

First route on the Ben!

with Francis Blunt
Hidden 03/Feb/15 2nd
Hidden 03/Feb/15 -
Hidden 03/Feb/15 2nd O/S
ADConway 03/Feb/15 2nd O/S
Hidden 03/Feb/15 2nd
Hidden 02/Feb/15 AltLd
stephen ashworth ?/Feb/15 AltLd
with Jack southward
SamHallam 27/Jan/15 2nd
pamvdb17 25/Jan/15 2nd
with Ollie
oliverk 24/Jan/15 Lead O/S
with Pam
Hidden 24/Jan/15 AltLd O/S
BnB 20/Jan/15 -
Hidden 18/Jan/15 2nd O/S
Hidden 18/Jan/15 2nd
Timothy Miller 17/Jan/15 AltLd O/S
John McKenna 17/Jan/15 AltLd O/S
mjsmith1973 17/Jan/15 2nd
with S.Ritson, C.Marlow
stutoms 09/Jan/15 2nd
Hidden 03/Jan/15 Lead O/S
kbow265 ?/Jan/15 -
aebewick ??/2015 2nd O/S
plain kitten ??/2015 -
adie84 ??/2015 -
Hidden 13/Dec/14 AltLd O/S
NeilGriffiths 13/Dec/14 AltLd

Delightful. Right choice for a grotty day.

with Adam
Nathan Adam 08/Dec/14 AltLd O/S

Direct start will be hard until there is some more consolidation so we gained the ridge from the ramp up West Gully. First tech 4 lead. A wee bit spicy without the use of frozen turf or neve, but good hooks all the way so not much bother.

connor 08/Dec/14 AltLd O/S

first route of the season

connor ?/Dec/14 AltLd

with nathan

Hidden ?/Apr/14 2nd O/S
David Horwood 29/Mar/14 -
Rob N 24/Mar/14 -
liamo333 24/Mar/14 -
with Rob N
colenn 24/Mar/14 -
Andrew Holden 23/Mar/14 2nd
LogieNick 20/Mar/14 2nd

Poor conditions of rising temperatures, rain and high gusting winds meant options very limited for 4th day of guided climbing based at CIC hut. Route only just in condition - semi-frozen turf with numerous loose blocks. Tricky move exiting short chimney on last pitch. Descent from Douglas Boulder via abseil to Douglas Gap and further abseil down top half of East Gully.

with Glenmore Lodge Ice & Mixed Climbing Ben Nevis
davebrox 18/Mar/14 Lead

Luke

jgordon75 07/Mar/14 Lead O/S

First winter climb in too many years. Organisation shocking. Conditions very windy. 1 rope for party of 3. Snow a bit soft. Much fun had by all.

with Sam Raphael, Aaron Brown
Hidden 06/Mar/14 Lead O/S
mzchambers 03/Mar/14 AltLd O/S
with Will R
Scott Rankin 03/Mar/14 AltLd
with Martin Mckenna
Martin McKenna - UKC 03/Mar/14 AltLd O/S
Stuart Wildman 01/Mar/14 2nd

Lots of snow covering most of the holds.

with Gooders
scottie390 24/Feb/14 Lead

#swim. in shit nick, buried. everythings buried! avalache debris everywhere. a lot of avalanche activity today. with John Elliott

LucaC 19/Feb/14 -

Melty ice and snow. Backed off.

with Rich, Little Ben
Hidden 17/Feb/14 2nd O/S
Hidden 16/Feb/14 AltLd O/S
masa-alpin 11/Feb/14 Lead O/S

Started at the groove/crack next to the West Gully - tech 6 (Yuki's hardest climb so far), at least today. The rest was V, 4 - technically not hard, but sparse and hard-gained protections. It took 1 hour from the CIC hut just to get to the starting point of P1, primarily because of the deep powder snow. Starting after 2pm meant we finished climbing in the dark in 4 pitches in total. Abbed off all the way to the foot of East Gully.

with Yuki S
2010_graham 09/Feb/14 AltLd O/S
with Olle K
Hidden 08/Feb/14 AltLd
olekemi 08/Feb/14 AltLd O/S

Sideways into it and finished the Route. Lots of snow.

with Iain M, Graham D
Rhys Macallister 07/Feb/14 AltLd
with michel dowawisz
DStrawbridge 04/Feb/14 AltLd

good climb, snow wasn't great. Fun climb though.

with SUColdo
SUColdo 04/Feb/14 AltLd

Good interesting climbing all the way. Wasn't 180m, probably 120m

Hidden 04/Feb/14 Lead O/S
RKernan 03/Feb/14 Lead

Loads of (good) snow. Start was banked out, probably a fair bit easier than usual.

with Kora Przybyszewska
Iain_L_32 03/Feb/14 2nd
The_Boy_ODwyer ?/Feb/14 AltLd
Hidden 29/Jan/14 2nd
phil64 20/Jan/14 Lead rpt

wild day on the ben good safe option

Andrew Sloan 19/Jan/14 AltLd O/S

Really nice route. Bomber neve and good pro. Topped out and then down climbed back to ab point.

with Steve Grove
Hidden 19/Jan/14 -
arose 12/Jan/14 Lead

Loads of Snow. Saw some big avalanches in Number 3 Gully

with Alfie Tipler
Phill_ Thompson 11/Jan/14 AltLd
with Richard Abell, Lucy Prins
Hidden 01/Jan/14 2nd O/S
Brannock 01/Jan/14 Lead O/S

With Stu, powder tastic wading, nice route though, good choice for a poor weather day.

Steve Woollard 20/Dec/13 2nd
with Kenny
Matt Reed 19/Mar/13 AltLd
with Chris C, Darren
Harry Holmes 17/Mar/13 Solo O/S
Roberttaylor 17/Mar/13 Lead O/S

Started up the groove, avoiding P1. Douglas Gully W was a bit avalanchey and absolutely choked with powder.

with Thijs Lubbers
mikehenesy ?/Mar/13 Lead β

Done it before but this time conditions made it a different proposition, a lot harder! Weather came in as predicted in the afternoon, got pretty grim. Chris did a heroic job getting us off the top, hairy! Hard work getting back to the hut ok from there. Three folk didn't, in the summit shelter until helo'd of 14:00hrs!!

with Chris Lodge
James Gordon ?/Mar/13 -
Tim Sparrow 10/Feb/13 AltLd

Upward spindrift kind of day.

with Geoff Thomas
Hidden 06/Feb/13 2nd O/S
Hidden ?/Feb/13 AltLd
Hidden ?/Feb/13 -
Ralfy 29/Jan/13 AltLd O/S
with Paul Beacall
The Bad Cough 29/Jan/13 AltLd O/S
with Mark Booker
GaryK 29/Jan/13 AltLd O/S
with Andy Cave
dav_713 15/Jan/13 -
with Davie Scott
scottie390 15/Jan/13 AltLd

#horror show. loads of loose snow, no neve, no ice marginal frozen turf. never again.

with dav_713
Hidden 14/Jan/13 AltLd
metrorat ??/2013 AltLd
with Brendan Bailey
Neil Mackenzie 27/Dec/12 AltLd dnf

took a fall after some 'turf' ripped. must be more careful! shaken but not broken so we abbed off

with jamsey
010paw 15/Dec/12 2nd O/S

Very good climb, nice one to get back into the swing of things. First winter route this season!

with Guy Stephens, calum mcphee
libby.southgate 01/Dec/12 AltLd O/S

Marcus led P1, I did 2 and 3

with MarcusP
Northern Mountain Monkey 03/Apr/12 -

Nice route for a day low down the mountain.

Hidden 10/Feb/12 2nd
Hidden 07/Feb/12 2nd
Jim Walton 05/Feb/12 AltLd dnf

Did the direct start but got caught behind 3 people who had hum-bugged us by starting further up the gully and cutting in above us (missing out the best bit), abbed off due to time constraints.

with Rob Davies
robertmichaellovell 30/Jan/12 AltLd

nice route, makes for a good short day if energy levels are low

with Lawrence
wence 30/Jan/12 AltLd O/S
Hidden 29/Jan/12 AltLd
Bobby Pearson 29/Jan/12 2nd O/S

Cloud base around 1000m, SW winds 45mph. Sheltered on ridge. Good consolidate snow pack. Missed the first pitch and it was in good nick so probably grade 4 max, however good route that is convenient

with Andy Brown, Mike Henesey
Hidden 29/Jan/12 Lead
mikehenesy 29/Jan/12 2nd O/S

Andy lead what we thought was going to be a IV/V but it was more like a III/IV maybe? We missed out the first bit though,Guy and Ade reconed that bit was pretty tasty. Lovely climbing though, and performed as a collective! Us three, Guy Ade and Lloydy and Bill.

with andybrown114, Bobby Pearson
Hidden ?/Jan/12 Lead dnf
sheffieldchris ??/2012 -
Hidden 14/Mar/11 Lead
Elsier 12/Mar/11 AltLd O/S

Proper Scottish winter day out! Great route for the conditions, but busy!

KeithAlexander 12/Mar/11 AltLd O/S

great route. skipped the first pitch by starting further up the gully.

with Elsier
Hidden 09/Mar/11 2nd O/S
Tim Sparrow 21/Feb/11 AltLd
with Pete Robinson
steveb2006 16/Feb/11 Lead

Cloudy and poor snow conditions higher up make this a good choice. 5 interesting pitches.

with Ian Cartwright
Hidden 14/Feb/11 AltLd
Hidden 14/Feb/11 AltLd O/S
rylett 10/Feb/11 2nd
with Paul Knowles
Hidden 07/Feb/11 2nd O/S
chmckay 30/Jan/11 2nd
with Graham Boistelle
IanMcC 23/Jan/11 Lead

Pitch 1 only- spindriftastic!

with ade
Hidden ??/2011 -
PAJames ??/2011 -
Jimmy1976 04/Apr/10 2nd O/S

Started via gully. Lots of powder on route so lots of searching round for good hooks. Last moves the most dificult, having to use tiny edges

with Kenny
IJHunt ?/Mar/10 2nd O/S
WilliamBurnside 28/Feb/10 AltLd
with Robert Manby
mikelaing ?/Jan/10 2nd
with Ian Whitehead
Hidden ??/2010 -
thebat 13/Dec/09 AltLd
with Ontour
joeydurkin 29/Mar/09 AltLd O/S

Scary Descent

with Dave Gleave
t_stork 28/Mar/09 AltLd

Interesting all the way

with Andy Ruck
John Roe 10/Mar/09 Lead

An excellend day in por conditions

with Ant Downing
Hidden ?/Mar/09 Lead
kleky ?/Mar/09 2nd O/S

Rusty led me & Adam on 2 half ropes.

with MRT Valley: Rusty
peebles boy ?/Mar/09 2nd
Ken Applegate 05/Feb/09 AltLd

Great route, an interesting combination of rock and winter climbing. Led the 1st pitch. The route is nowhere near 180m as per the guidebook! We thought it was more like 120m.

with Dave Kirby, Alex Wheldon
critchlg 28/Jan/09 2nd O/S

During the Kimber week

with Spike
rob1 24/Jan/09 AltLd O/S
with Neil Loydon
Hidden 15/Dec/08 AltLd
The Bad Cough 07/Apr/08 AltLd O/S
with rab
Hidden 28/Mar/08 AltLd O/S
Sandy P 21/Mar/08 AltLd
with LukeO
sasmojo 08/Mar/08 2nd

Pete lead all pitches.

with Pete (WCMG), Jamie Evans
Martyn ?/Mar/08 2nd O/S
with James Williams
dustbuddy 05/Feb/08 Lead O/S
with Paul
MarkDavies36 ??/2008 Lead O/S
glaramara 01/Jul/07 Lead
with m clerk
Hidden 20/Jan/07 AltLd
tubby two ??/2004 AltLd
with Colm
NickJH ?/Feb/00 Lead O/S
graeme gatherer ??/2000 -
akhughes ??/2000 -
mike fenwick ?/Mar/99 AltLd

Graded III when we did it...

with Ben Pearce
Hidden ?/Feb/99 AltLd O/S
Hidden ??/1999 Lead
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Voting
High V
Mid V
Low V
High IV
Mid IV
Low IV
High III
Mid III
Low III
Votes cast 40
High 6
Mid 6
Low 6
High 5
Mid 5
Low 5
High 4
Mid 4
Low 4
Votes cast 36
Votes cast 37
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Followed
Lead
Soloed
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
DNF
Flashed (β)
Not Set