88m, 7 pitches.

Rockfax Description
A classic outing, varied and interesting with a devious but logical line. Very popular and it only has a couple of hard sections - the hand traverse on P3 and the final pitch. Start directly above the large conspicuous block of The Capstan.
1) 4a, 28m. Climb up the rib and cross over left beneath some blocks. Climb up through these rightwards to a grassy ledge with a huge bollard.
2) 4a, 20m. Climb the corner on the left then move delicately leftwards out across the face before striding round the arete to the jammed flake of The Arch. Belay further left.
3) 4b, 20m. Gain a ledge on the right then move up and swing across the hand-traverse to ledges above Gibson's Chimney. Continue to a good stance on the ledge of The Veranda.
4) 8m. Move the belay to the right-hand end of The Veranda to below the final corner.
4a) 18m. The Winter Finish, VDiff. A variant ending. Move left along the flakes and up the corner to the top.
5) 4c, 20m. Climb up right behind the large spike, then move back left to below the wide awkward Coffin Chimney and superb groove of Final Crack. Do battle with these and wonder at the pioneers who did it back in 1907! © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
7 Pitch

Ticklists

Classic Rock, North Wales Rock Graded List, 50 Best HS Routes in the UK., North Wales 100 Classic Climbs, ROCKFAX - Top 50 North Wales Climbs, Ultimate HS ticklist, The Ogwen 1000, The best the UK has to offer for mere mortals (apart from the lakes cos its always wet), 100 Best Wales Mid Grade Climbs, The Original 'Classic Rock' List, UK Holiday Plans, Pre-MIA Wishlist, The Big Easy Mountain Route Club, George's Ultimate Easy to Mid Grade North Wales Trad Ticklist, Definitive *** Ogwen

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Logged Ascents

User Date Style Notes & Partners
Butty 26 Jul AltLd
Wizzy 16 Jul Solo O/S I found it slightly underwhelming apart from the wonderful last pitch
I found it slightly underwhelming apart from the wonderful last pitch
GermanAlex 22 Jun AltLd O/S Lead all but P1; P2+3 together (not advisable, but works if you don't mind keeping it light on gear). Great varied route, HS except for the last pitch. If you think it's 5a you need to sort out your jamming.
with V1c
Lead all but P1; P2+3 together (not advisable, but works if you don't mind keeping it light on gear). Great varied route, HS except for the last pitch. If you think it's 5a you need to sort out your jamming.
with V1c
the_cheese247 22 Jun AltLd dog Oof, sun burn and a crack at the end of a long day, didn't try hard enough and took a nice rest on the final pitch. Finished with peanut butter hobknobs.
with Liron, Luke Fugel, James Duley
Oof, sun burn and a crack at the end of a long day, didn't try hard enough and took a nice rest on the final pitch. Finished with peanut butter hobknobs.
with Liron, Luke Fugel, James Duley
Hidden 22 Jun AltLd
Hidden 22 Jun 2nd
V1c 22 Jun AltLd
sambeaumont 19 Jun AltLd O/S Pitch 1 and 3. Great route!
with James Brake
Pitch 1 and 3. Great route!
with James Brake
rwm7131 14 Jun AltLd O/S Lead 2nd & last pitches. Cracking.
with JamesA
Lead 2nd & last pitches. Cracking.
with JamesA
ebutton 3 Jun AltLd O/S
with Dean
with Dean
Mark Kemball 15 May AltLd Lovely route, HS apart from the last pitch which is solid VS 4c, maybe harder.
with Geoff Appleby
Lovely route, HS apart from the last pitch which is solid VS 4c, maybe harder.
with Geoff Appleby
Siongethinhill 14 May AltLd
with Steven Owen
with Steven Owen
sandbagsteve 14 May AltLd O/S Direct route, Gibsons Chimney, Lots groove then traversed over for Hodgkins finish.
Direct route, Gibsons Chimney, Lots groove then traversed over for Hodgkins finish.
Mr Fuller 11 May AltLd O/S Led P1 and P3. Basically an HS 4b with a pitch of VS 4c on top.
with Paul Gibbison
Led P1 and P3. Basically an HS 4b with a pitch of VS 4c on top.
with Paul Gibbison
Hidden 22 Apr 2nd
Ollieaxon 22 Apr AltLd dog Lead 1st,2nd & 5th pitch. Fell on 5th, carried on till top. Bit of a relief tbh!
with DJH
Lead 1st,2nd & 5th pitch. Fell on 5th, carried on till top. Bit of a relief tbh!
with DJH
DJH 22 Apr AltLd Awesome crack/chimney finish!
Awesome crack/chimney finish!
royle883 21 Apr Lead O/S Desperate final pitch if (like me) you can't jam for sh*t
Desperate final pitch if (like me) you can't jam for sh*t
mkbk93 21 Apr Lead O/S That last pitch it a monster! The jams get easier the higher you get in the crack, After leading Gibson's Chimney I had to lead P3... Dan can't Jam!
with Dan Webster
That last pitch it a monster! The jams get easier the higher you get in the crack, After leading Gibson's Chimney I had to lead P3... Dan can't Jam!
with Dan Webster
Al_Mac 20 Apr AltLd
JessWilliams 20 Apr AltLd
with Al_Mac
with Al_Mac
Aled Williams 19 Apr - Took my first trad lead fall on the last pitch. decided to learn to jam there and then which got me into a pickle. Got back on and finished the route.
Took my first trad lead fall on the last pitch. decided to learn to jam there and then which got me into a pickle. Got back on and finished the route.
hazeysunshine 19 Apr AltLd rpt
with saffra
with saffra
Cara 30 Mar AltLd RP Great route, attempted to lead the last pitch as a corner rather than a crack climb which got me into a pickle. Managed it fine when I decided to climb properly
Great route, attempted to lead the last pitch as a corner rather than a crack climb which got me into a pickle. Managed it fine when I decided to climb properly
Elle 30 Mar AltLd
with Carl
with Carl
PandaSUMC 30 Mar AltLd O/S Absolutely lovely, pitch 4 is a walk across a ledge however!
with Cara
Absolutely lovely, pitch 4 is a walk across a ledge however!
with Cara
lukevf 30 Mar AltLd O/S
with Carl
with Carl
Carl 30 Mar AltLd O/S
with Elle, lukevf
with Elle, lukevf
featuresforfeet 24 Feb AltLd O/S
with Jon
with Jon
philmcf ?Feb AltLd
Hidden 28 Oct, 2018 AltLd
Hidden ?Oct, 2018 AltLd dog
bexlouisee 28 Sep, 2018 2nd O/S
with Alex Kay
with Alex Kay
Robin Montaigne 5 Sep, 2018 2nd β MIA consolidation for K, who led. P3 hand traverse felt strenuous (4b). VDiff finish, rather than the VS. Graded HS in Ground Up guide. Descended by Bristly Ridge.
with Jn, MCI Trainee - K
MIA consolidation for K, who led. P3 hand traverse felt strenuous (4b). VDiff finish, rather than the VS. Graded HS in Ground Up guide. Descended by Bristly Ridge.
with Jn, MCI Trainee - K
Jan T 5 Sep, 2018 2nd Completed with winter finish (Hard Severe 4b)
with Rob M, Kelly
Completed with winter finish (Hard Severe 4b)
with Rob M, Kelly
Hidden 9 Aug, 2018 AltLd
Hidden 25 Jul, 2018 AltLd
Jayne E 19 Jul, 2018 2nd O/S
with Alice
with Alice
josefft 19 Jul, 2018 AltLd O/S
stephenmckenzie 19 Jul, 2018 AltLd O/S
with josefft
with josefft
RosieGann 19 Jul, 2018 2nd How many people can you fit on two ropes? Brilliant all female trad day to help Alice prep...
with Jess Simmons, Alice Kerr, Jayne Eldridge
How many people can you fit on two ropes? Brilliant all female trad day to help Alice prep...
with Jess Simmons, Alice Kerr, Jayne Eldridge
John Nuttall 14 Jul, 2018 Lead via Gibson's Chimney
with Sharon
via Gibson's Chimney
with Sharon
yossarian714 7 Jul, 2018 AltLd O/S Led P2, 4 & 5
with gar0cky
Led P2, 4 & 5
with gar0cky
ladempsey 7 Jul, 2018 AltLd All easy except for the top pitch. Probably only a VS if you know how to jam. If not it feels a whole lot harder!! Intense climbing.
All easy except for the top pitch. Probably only a VS if you know how to jam. If not it feels a whole lot harder!! Intense climbing.
ice bank mice elf 7 Jul, 2018 AltLd
Andreeafvg 7 Jul, 2018 2nd
gar0cky 7 Jul, 2018 AltLd O/S P1&2 steady, P3 slightly bold on the hand traverse, P4/5 awkward & strenuous - great route.
P1&2 steady, P3 slightly bold on the hand traverse, P4/5 awkward & strenuous - great route.
richfitz 7 Jul, 2018 Lead O/S
with Andrea
with Andrea
Hidden 3 Jul, 2018 AltLd O/S
tim-the-evans 3 Jul, 2018 AltLd
Elliot Strowger 1 Jul, 2018 Lead
AliceKerr ?Jul, 2018 Lead
Storme 30 Jun, 2018 AltLd
with Jake397
with Jake397
Jack Manfredi 30 Jun, 2018 AltLd
with Dad
with Dad
Jake397 30 Jun, 2018 AltLd
with Storme
with Storme
Josh Butler 27 Jun, 2018 AltLd
with Adam Hill
with Adam Hill
afearn91 26 Jun, 2018 AltLd O/S I took pitches 1, 3, 4 & 5 although pitch 4 isn’t a pitch. The final pitch has a polished crack to finish, an aggressive approach is recommended!
with LJJ77
I took pitches 1, 3, 4 & 5 although pitch 4 isn’t a pitch. The final pitch has a polished crack to finish, an aggressive approach is recommended!
with LJJ77
LJJ77 26 Jun, 2018 AltLd O/S Only lead pitch 2 as Adam run pitch 3&4 together and wanted to bag the final pitch also I think the final pitch would of been easier on lead as I was carrying two bags Adams inside my rucksack and had a nightmare getting gear out But a cracking route
Only lead pitch 2 as Adam run pitch 3&4 together and wanted to bag the final pitch also I think the final pitch would of been easier on lead as I was carrying two bags Adams inside my rucksack and had a nightmare getting gear out But a cracking route
mark44 24 Jun, 2018 AltLd O/S Did in 3 on Gibson's chimney.. p3 def harder than the rest
with Mike
Did in 3 on Gibson's chimney.. p3 def harder than the rest
with Mike
Clegm 24 Jun, 2018 AltLd
Hidden 23 Jun, 2018 AltLd
Okecroak 14 Jun, 2018 AltLd
Chris Ebbutt 14 Jun, 2018 AltLd Led pitches 2 and 5, enjoyed leading last cracks pitch.
Led pitches 2 and 5, enjoyed leading last cracks pitch.
jontydlh 12 Jun, 2018 AltLd O/S
with Sam Peel
with Sam Peel
lcullum7 10 Jun, 2018 AltLd O/S
with Dave Lomax
with Dave Lomax
Olly Chapman 10 Jun, 2018 AltLd O/S Pitch 5 best by far
with Ben Legais
Pitch 5 best by far
with Ben Legais
Ralfy 9 Jun, 2018 AltLd O/S Awesome last pitch. Jamming, left hand thumbs down. Brilliant.
with Adam
Awesome last pitch. Jamming, left hand thumbs down. Brilliant.
with Adam
Hidden 7 Jun, 2018 AltLd
cathymiller 3 Jun, 2018 AltLd O/S A traditional route.
A traditional route.
OllyDewhirst 3 Jun, 2018 AltLd O/S
Hidden 2 Jun, 2018 AltLd O/S
Hidden ?Jun, 2018 AltLd
Hidden 22 May, 2018 AltLd O/S
JohnDexter 20 May, 2018 AltLd O/S Took the alternate route (through the "cave") to top crack.
with Griff
Took the alternate route (through the "cave") to top crack.
with Griff
alexandra 10 May, 2018 AltLd dog
sheelba 6 May, 2018 AltLd
with Naomi
with Naomi
MarkFoster 6 May, 2018 AltLd O/S Still a little slimy in the cracks. Final crack is fine if you can jam...
with Greg
Still a little slimy in the cracks. Final crack is fine if you can jam...
with Greg
Hidden 29 Apr, 2018 AltLd O/S
Benstar 21 Apr, 2018 2nd
with therat
with therat
therat 21 Apr, 2018 Lead O/S Lead all pitches including pitch 3 4c variation
Lead all pitches including pitch 3 4c variation
Jack93 ?Apr, 2018 Lead O/S
with JoshT
with JoshT
JoshT ?Apr, 2018 2nd
with Jack93
with Jack93
methuselah ??, 2018 -
Hidden ??, 2018 -
AlPash ??, 2018 -
gotama178 ??, 2018 AltLd O/S
Harry Padley 19 Nov, 2017 Lead O/S Did the 4c Gibson's Chimney variation - felt hard for VS. Final pitch also felt hard for VS. Probably not helped by it being November and not being able to feel our hands.
Did the 4c Gibson's Chimney variation - felt hard for VS. Final pitch also felt hard for VS. Probably not helped by it being November and not being able to feel our hands.
Hidden 27 Aug, 2017 AltLd O/S
meanderthal 25 Aug, 2017 AltLd
teoabaza 23 Aug, 2017 2nd dnf
with Tammy, Tom, Ben
with Tammy, Tom, Ben
suds_01 13 Aug, 2017 Lead O/S
with Billy
with Billy
BC 10 Aug, 2017 Lead O/S p1, 3,5
p1, 3,5
Dan77 3 Aug, 2017 AltLd O/S
Glyn Davidson 3 Aug, 2017 AltLd O/S Dan did pitch 1 & 2 together ( as per UKC description). I went up to the bottom of Gibson's chimney, looked around the slab and figured it was too easy so went straight up Gibson's and to the "Veranda". Dan shifted the belay over and I got us up to the bottom of the last pitch. I let Dan go for it rather than hog all the glory to myself. We stuffed both rucksacks into one so the second carried a heavy bag. I thought I'd stitched Dan up by sending him up Gibson's with the heavy rucksuck but I soon felt Karma get me back as I was heading up the last pitch with both of our bags. Well protected throughout. Up until the last pitch it feels more like Severe. With Gibson's Chimney and the final pitch, VS seems about right. Very windy on the scramble and topped out in the clouds.
with Dan77
Dan did pitch 1 & 2 together ( as per UKC description). I went up to the bottom of Gibson's chimney, looked around the slab and figured it was too easy so went straight up Gibson's and to the "Veranda". Dan shifted the belay over and I got us up to the bottom of the last pitch. I let Dan go for it rather than hog all the glory to myself. We stuffed both rucksacks into one so the second carried a heavy bag. I thought I'd stitched Dan up by sending him up Gibson's with the heavy rucksuck but I soon felt Karma get me back as I was heading up the last pitch with both of our bags. Well protected throughout. Up until the last pitch it feels more like Severe. With Gibson's Chimney and the final pitch, VS seems about right. Very windy on the scramble and topped out in the clouds.
with Dan77
tumbling wizard ?Aug, 2017 Lead
RichardMcN 29 Jul, 2017 2nd
AngelaC 29 Jul, 2017 Lead
Sarah Coulthard 24 Jul, 2017 AltLd Lovely mountain day out with Bex - missed the sun though!
Lovely mountain day out with Bex - missed the sun though!
rd20 24 Jul, 2017 AltLd O/S RD P 2 and 5 (on this description) but 3 pts aid on P5. Glorious day starting in Ogwen Valley, Tryfan by Belle Vue Bastion, then Glydr Fach (best bit is the scramble to the summit after Direct Route) and then descent to Pen-y-Pass via Miners Path
with jing
RD P 2 and 5 (on this description) but 3 pts aid on P5. Glorious day starting in Ogwen Valley, Tryfan by Belle Vue Bastion, then Glydr Fach (best bit is the scramble to the summit after Direct Route) and then descent to Pen-y-Pass via Miners Path
with jing
jing 24 Jul, 2017 AltLd O/S Second part of our Tryfan+Glyder Fach enchainment. Started climbing at 3.20pm and topped out Glyder Fach at about 8.15pm. Back in car in Pen-y-Pass at 10pm via the miners' pass. I led P1, 3. Robert P2 and 4+5 together according to the description here (or me 1,2,5 and Robert 3,4,6,7 by the cc guidebook). It is a great route but not so much in condition. Vegetated and wet throughout until the last pitch. The last pitch was glorious though. Great fun (arm bar, hand jam, toe jam). Would agree this is VS. The final pitch can probably be climbed at 4c, but definitely not an easy one.
with rd20
Second part of our Tryfan+Glyder Fach enchainment. Started climbing at 3.20pm and topped out Glyder Fach at about 8.15pm. Back in car in Pen-y-Pass at 10pm via the miners' pass. I led P1, 3. Robert P2 and 4+5 together according to the description here (or me 1,2,5 and Robert 3,4,6,7 by the cc guidebook). It is a great route but not so much in condition. Vegetated and wet throughout until the last pitch. The last pitch was glorious though. Great fun (arm bar, hand jam, toe jam). Would agree this is VS. The final pitch can probably be climbed at 4c, but definitely not an easy one.
with rd20
mattx1123 14 Jul, 2017 AltLd led p2 & 4 (final crack). final crack tough, took a fall and redid without rucksack, more bridging and less getting sucked into the big crack.
led p2 & 4 (final crack). final crack tough, took a fall and redid without rucksack, more bridging and less getting sucked into the big crack.
Hidden 14 Jul, 2017 AltLd O/S
pingora 8 Jul, 2017 Lead O/S
AndyScheller 8 Jul, 2017 2nd O/S I lead pitch 4 ;-)
with pingora
I lead pitch 4 ;-)
with pingora
James corfe 25 Jun, 2017 -
Hidden 21 Jun, 2017 AltLd O/S
uphillnow 21 Jun, 2017 AltLd classic.
with Rik
classic.
with Rik
Alfie Maun 21 Jun, 2017 AltLd
with Joe Fisher
with Joe Fisher
Hidden 20 Jun, 2017 AltLd O/S
Clegm 18 Jun, 2017 AltLd
Hidden 17 Jun, 2017 AltLd O/S
Hidden 17 Jun, 2017 AltLd
davash91 17 Jun, 2017 2nd
fuzzysheep01 17 Jun, 2017 Lead O/S
Chris Murray 17 Jun, 2017 Lead Led all the pitches. Did the rectangular excursion and coffin chimney.
with Richard Bower
Led all the pitches. Did the rectangular excursion and coffin chimney.
with Richard Bower
fweatherall1 8 Jun, 2017 -
fweatherall1 8 Jun, 2017 AltLd
Theeni 3 Jun, 2017 AltLd O/S
Hidden 31 May, 2017 Lead
bidean 31 May, 2017 2nd
neal 7 May, 2017 AltLd O/S Excellent route. Ran P1&2 together (2nd). Did P3+Gibson's Chimney (led), then the Final Crack Finish (led).
with Sophie W-J
Excellent route. Ran P1&2 together (2nd). Did P3+Gibson's Chimney (led), then the Final Crack Finish (led).
with Sophie W-J
67hours 7 May, 2017 Lead O/S Superb finish!!
with Becky H
Superb finish!!
with Becky H
mattfarr 23 Apr, 2017 AltLd O/S Interesting top pitch.
Interesting top pitch.
JoeFranklin 23 Apr, 2017 AltLd O/S
Nikkiyoxall 19 Apr, 2017 AltLd
JackM92 19 Apr, 2017 AltLd O/S Class route. Really well protected, great belays...pretty straightforward at VS.
Class route. Really well protected, great belays...pretty straightforward at VS.
Hidden 13 Apr, 2017 AltLd O/S
Hidden 7 Apr, 2017 AltLd O/S
PAJames ??, 2017 -
mike smash ??, 2017 -
huwaaron 11 Oct, 2016 AltLd Lead pitch 2 and Winter Diff, wanted to do the final crack but didn't like the look of it without cams, decided to build an anchor and top rope lotys wife before bailing on the winter diff. Was with Ste, gaining log days for his MIA training. It was cold and a lot of seepage.
Lead pitch 2 and Winter Diff, wanted to do the final crack but didn't like the look of it without cams, decided to build an anchor and top rope lotys wife before bailing on the winter diff. Was with Ste, gaining log days for his MIA training. It was cold and a lot of seepage.
Hidden 16 Aug, 2016 AltLd O/S
MarcinK 14 Aug, 2016 AltLd O/S Easier option without 5a
with Jonny, GaborS
Easier option without 5a
with Jonny, GaborS
GaborS 14 Aug, 2016 AltLd O/S Climbed last as part of a team of three on the first pitch, which was led by Jonny, our MIA leader. Seconded most pitches. really enjoyed the exposed traverse. Led last pitch, which was very wet and dirty, making it quite tricky. I could not find a proper crack for placement on the last section of the climb, so just pressed on. Very good anchors on the top.
with Marcin, Jonny
Climbed last as part of a team of three on the first pitch, which was led by Jonny, our MIA leader. Seconded most pitches. really enjoyed the exposed traverse. Led last pitch, which was very wet and dirty, making it quite tricky. I could not find a proper crack for placement on the last section of the climb, so just pressed on. Very good anchors on the top.
with Marcin, Jonny
Hidden 14 Aug, 2016 AltLd O/S
LucaC 9 Aug, 2016 Lead O/S Mia client day. P 3,4,5 according to rockfax descriptions.
Mia client day. P 3,4,5 according to rockfax descriptions.
Hidden 6 Aug, 2016 2nd
Hidden 6 Aug, 2016 Solo O/S
Hidden 6 Aug, 2016 2nd
benwmorgan 24 Jul, 2016 AltLd
with Rollo
with Rollo
Rollo 24 Jul, 2016 AltLd O/S All going well until I tried to finish up Left-Hand Crack and was scared off by the off-width. Escaped up up the winter Diff :(
All going well until I tried to finish up Left-Hand Crack and was scared off by the off-width. Escaped up up the winter Diff :(
Hidden 23 Jul, 2016 AltLd
Hidden 19 Jul, 2016 AltLd O/S
matt1024 23 Jun, 2016 AltLd O/S
with AlexCib
with AlexCib
AlexCib 23 Jun, 2016 AltLd O/S Exciting and exposed climbing (the traverse round the corner on P2 was especially nerve-wracking on lead!) - a great adventure to round off the trip! Running out of time so we did the winter finish variation.
Exciting and exposed climbing (the traverse round the corner on P2 was especially nerve-wracking on lead!) - a great adventure to round off the trip! Running out of time so we did the winter finish variation.
tom_drysdale 21 Jun, 2016 AltLd O/S Done with the Gibson's chimney variation (4c). Really nice climb, and the scramble from the top to the summit of Glyder Fach was as fun as the climb itself!!
with CRead
Done with the Gibson's chimney variation (4c). Really nice climb, and the scramble from the top to the summit of Glyder Fach was as fun as the climb itself!!
with CRead
CRead 21 Jun, 2016 AltLd O/S Done after Grooved Arete on Tryfan as a pretty big day out! Found it pretty bland until the last pitch which was wicked!
Done after Grooved Arete on Tryfan as a pretty big day out! Found it pretty bland until the last pitch which was wicked!
andrewmc 6 Jun, 2016 AltLd O/S Moving together except for final pitch. Zack led pitches 1-4, I led 5-7. Final crack is horrendous for HS, although I was wearing a backpack and I can't jam for toffee (although plenty of thrutchy wedging certainly occurred).
with Zack
Moving together except for final pitch. Zack led pitches 1-4, I led 5-7. Final crack is horrendous for HS, although I was wearing a backpack and I can't jam for toffee (although plenty of thrutchy wedging certainly occurred).
with Zack
Hidden 6 Jun, 2016 AltLd O/S
Hidden 5 Jun, 2016 Solo
j.anstee 3 Jun, 2016 AltLd O/S
with blakey
with blakey
Hidden 2 Jun, 2016 AltLd O/S
Hidden 2 Jun, 2016 AltLd
tumbling wizard ?Jun, 2016 -
with Rona
with Rona
Steve Bartle 30 May, 2016 AltLd O/S Great weaving route up some great rock. That last pitch is hilarious. Should be Vs 5a just to give you an idea what you're letting yourself in for, even though most of the route is pretty straightforward. P.s. don't go down Main Gulley!
with Dave S, Mark V-R
Great weaving route up some great rock. That last pitch is hilarious. Should be Vs 5a just to give you an idea what you're letting yourself in for, even though most of the route is pretty straightforward. P.s. don't go down Main Gulley!
with Dave S, Mark V-R
HazelMacLean 29 May, 2016 AltLd O/S A grand day out! Especially enjoyed the hand traverse and the final pitch, especially as I got to use all Rosie and Louise's beta! Finished by scrambling down the ridge which was also fun in the sun.
A grand day out! Especially enjoyed the hand traverse and the final pitch, especially as I got to use all Rosie and Louise's beta! Finished by scrambling down the ridge which was also fun in the sun.
Louise Hall 29 May, 2016 AltLd O/S Trad isn't too bad when it's not cold and wet, who'd have thought it ey! Lovely day out for Rosie's birthday. Glad I wasn't leading the last pitch!
Trad isn't too bad when it's not cold and wet, who'd have thought it ey! Lovely day out for Rosie's birthday. Glad I wasn't leading the last pitch!
Rosie Henstock 29 May, 2016 AltLd O/S Climbed on my birthday as a jovial party of 4 with louise, hazel and alice. Especially enjoyed the last pitch once the bag had been dumped. Thanks for putting in a stirling effort just to meet my birthday wishes!
Climbed on my birthday as a jovial party of 4 with louise, hazel and alice. Especially enjoyed the last pitch once the bag had been dumped. Thanks for putting in a stirling effort just to meet my birthday wishes!
shed_hed 15 May, 2016 Solo O/S Really nice weaving route. Opted for the Winter Finish in the end. Got to the crack on the final pitch but decided it looked too hard and polished to be a HS pitch (left the guidebook at the base); went and had a look at everything else which also looked hard and didn't fancy committing to, not knowing what they were so scooted off up the easiest looking option, which turned out to be the Winter Finish.
Really nice weaving route. Opted for the Winter Finish in the end. Got to the crack on the final pitch but decided it looked too hard and polished to be a HS pitch (left the guidebook at the base); went and had a look at everything else which also looked hard and didn't fancy committing to, not knowing what they were so scooted off up the easiest looking option, which turned out to be the Winter Finish.
MikeLell 15 May, 2016 Solo Ended up on this while getting into a muddle on Slab Route.
Ended up on this while getting into a muddle on Slab Route.
James Worthington 14 May, 2016 AltLd Pitch 2 and final pitch. First lead fall. Hardest 4c I've done so far.
with Johnny
Pitch 2 and final pitch. First lead fall. Hardest 4c I've done so far.
with Johnny
rosiehawker 14 May, 2016 AltLd O/S
with C May
with C May
Hidden 14 May, 2016 AltLd
manmike 23 Apr, 2016 AltLd
Ste Ridd 23 Apr, 2016 AltLd
with manmike
with manmike
davebrox ??, 2016 -
Climbingspike ??, 2016 -
Mike Roger ??, 2016 -
Darron ??, 2016 -
mountain musher ??, 2016 AltLd
Wendy Watthews 10 Oct, 2015 AltLd O/S
arandall 10 Oct, 2015 AltLd dog
omaskrey 10 Oct, 2015 AltLd O/S Done in 3 pitches with Gibson's Chimney
Done in 3 pitches with Gibson's Chimney
JoeCoxson 10 Oct, 2015 AltLd O/S Done in 3 pitches with Gibson's Chimney variation. Nice way up the centre of the crag, the top pitch has great gear but is sustained and awkward as hell.
Done in 3 pitches with Gibson's Chimney variation. Nice way up the centre of the crag, the top pitch has great gear but is sustained and awkward as hell.
joermann 17 Sep, 2015 AltLd Didn't fancy last pitch in the dark
Didn't fancy last pitch in the dark
Danjones 8 Sep, 2015 AltLd O/S Top pitch corner harder than the rest of the route but well protected.
Top pitch corner harder than the rest of the route but well protected.
Gerallt Owain 8 Sep, 2015 AltLd O/S
Louis Hume 17 Aug, 2015 Lead
Jenny Hall 17 Aug, 2015 2nd O/S Great route very high in the grade and we both thought the final pitch (the crack) was 5a in fact we have done easier 5a's
with Louis
Great route very high in the grade and we both thought the final pitch (the crack) was 5a in fact we have done easier 5a's
with Louis
Wayne S 15 Aug, 2015 AltLd O/S O.K. route, but not a three star classic in my book. Route was wet on every pitch on a dry day, suspect it needs a week of dry weather to be in condition. Perhaps three stars on half a dozen days a year! That said it was pretty dull and disjointed climbing. A great situation but does that alone make a classic?
O.K. route, but not a three star classic in my book. Route was wet on every pitch on a dry day, suspect it needs a week of dry weather to be in condition. Perhaps three stars on half a dozen days a year! That said it was pretty dull and disjointed climbing. A great situation but does that alone make a classic?
Hidden 15 Aug, 2015 AltLd O/S
Hidden 13 Aug, 2015 -
ChrisGard 13 Aug, 2015 AltLd
with Chris Lucas
with Chris Lucas
dkd 12 Aug, 2015 Lead O/S
with Al
with Al
Tom Draude 12 Aug, 2015 AltLd O/S
chris cockbain 12 Aug, 2015 AltLd O/S
Allan Winstanley 8 Aug, 2015 AltLd I don't understand how the last pitch can be graded 4C but the overall climb given hard severe. The last pitch is pretty unpleasant, especially for the right foot!
with Ken
I don't understand how the last pitch can be graded 4C but the overall climb given hard severe. The last pitch is pretty unpleasant, especially for the right foot!
with Ken
Hidden 7 Aug, 2015 AltLd O/S
Hidden 2 Jul, 2015 Lead O/S
Hidden 12 Jun, 2015 AltLd
akhutton88 23 May, 2015 AltLd Lead P1. Hand traverse was cool but there was a rather spicy move around the arête. Fair play to Brad for leading the final pitch, don't go into the crack - you won't get out! Don't think the last pitch is 4c, maybe 5a but there's plenty of gear.
with Brad
Lead P1. Hand traverse was cool but there was a rather spicy move around the arête. Fair play to Brad for leading the final pitch, don't go into the crack - you won't get out! Don't think the last pitch is 4c, maybe 5a but there's plenty of gear.
with Brad
Hidden ??, 2015 -
Hidden ??, 2015 -
centurion05 ??, 2015 -
Hidden ??, 2015 -
tk4210 12 Oct, 2014 AltLd O/S Let 2nd pitch and first part of the winter finish vd pitch off the verandah
with Joe North
Let 2nd pitch and first part of the winter finish vd pitch off the verandah
with Joe North
dtalbot 19 Sep, 2014 AltLd Following CS and Roger. Definitely not 4c with packs on, as we walked over the top back to Pen-y-Gwyrd
with Wm
Following CS and Roger. Definitely not 4c with packs on, as we walked over the top back to Pen-y-Gwyrd
with Wm
georgenvk 13 Sep, 2014 Lead O/S
with Becks87
with Becks87
Becks87 13 Sep, 2014 2nd O/S
bob johnson 13 Sep, 2014 AltLd
with Bram
with Bram
maumau 4 Sep, 2014 AltLd
ralphio 4 Sep, 2014 AltLd O/S Led pitch 1 and 3. Found the route technical in places, suprisingly the third pitch. Finished up the vdiff pitch as partner didn't manage the final VS pitch and running out of light. Climbed at the end of a marathon days climbing in the ogwen valley, 11 hours car to car.
with maumau
Led pitch 1 and 3. Found the route technical in places, suprisingly the third pitch. Finished up the vdiff pitch as partner didn't manage the final VS pitch and running out of light. Climbed at the end of a marathon days climbing in the ogwen valley, 11 hours car to car.
with maumau
Hidden 16 Aug, 2014 Lead O/S
Hidden 16 Aug, 2014 AltLd O/S
Denry 16 Aug, 2014 2nd β An adventurous route with exciting climbing from the outset. First the Teetering Leg Traverse, followed by the Pocketed Downclimb. Look out for the Bilberry Cam Placement preceding the Hand Traverse of Doom. The winter finish with the greasy Corner of Death provides a fitting close to the drama, climaxing on the knife edged Block of Damocles. Best done in gale force winds with a fine drizzle in failing light.
An adventurous route with exciting climbing from the outset. First the Teetering Leg Traverse, followed by the Pocketed Downclimb. Look out for the Bilberry Cam Placement preceding the Hand Traverse of Doom. The winter finish with the greasy Corner of Death provides a fitting close to the drama, climaxing on the knife edged Block of Damocles. Best done in gale force winds with a fine drizzle in failing light.
charvey 9 Aug, 2014 AltLd O/S I led the first and last pitches, matt joined the middle two together. The first pitch was poor and vegetated, the second and third had some interest and the final pitch was a lovely groove with a hand crack on the side. Dawn and Sam backed off the last pitch and did the v. dif finish instead. Later a rock the size of a microwave came within a few metres of me as Matt tried to free their abseil ropes form the east gully. :-( Later a rock the size of a microwave came past me as Matt tried to free another pairs
I led the first and last pitches, matt joined the middle two together. The first pitch was poor and vegetated, the second and third had some interest and the final pitch was a lovely groove with a hand crack on the side. Dawn and Sam backed off the last pitch and did the v. dif finish instead. Later a rock the size of a microwave came within a few metres of me as Matt tried to free their abseil ropes form the east gully. :-( Later a rock the size of a microwave came past me as Matt tried to free another pairs
saraguti 9 Aug, 2014 -
Matt Harmon 9 Aug, 2014 AltLd O/S Led P2 and P3
with charvey
Led P2 and P3
with charvey
Dawn_K_B 9 Aug, 2014 AltLd O/S Not sure it deserves 3 stars. The VDiff alternate pitch was the best on the route..!
with Sam Ash
Not sure it deserves 3 stars. The VDiff alternate pitch was the best on the route..!
with Sam Ash
Hidden 7 Aug, 2014 AltLd
Mike Tutt 20 Jul, 2014 Lead
Kate Edhouse 4 Jul, 2014 AltLd
erbridger 4 Jul, 2014 AltLd
Kate Edhouse 30 Jun, 2014 AltLd O/S All good, the last pitch is hard and v.strenuous
All good, the last pitch is hard and v.strenuous
thehugehead 29 Jun, 2014 Lead dnf Slow group on route. Bloke demanded "No one else should be on the route at the same time". Wouldn't allow to climb through. Shame.
Slow group on route. Bloke demanded "No one else should be on the route at the same time". Wouldn't allow to climb through. Shame.
LDJ 29 Jun, 2014 AltLd With Hodgkin's variation
with Alfie
With Hodgkin's variation
with Alfie
K Mckay 26 Jun, 2014 Lead O/S Led all pitches. Joe's first outdoor climb.
Led all pitches. Joe's first outdoor climb.
DanielGyi 26 Jun, 2014 AltLd O/S
James Oakes 25 Jun, 2014 AltLd O/S With Gibson's chimney variation. Led last pitch. Felt more like VS than HS.
With Gibson's chimney variation. Led last pitch. Felt more like VS than HS.
Pinguville 23 Jun, 2014 2nd O/S only top pitch , after lots groove . found chimney very tricky and strenuous !
only top pitch , after lots groove . found chimney very tricky and strenuous !
George_Surf 23 Jun, 2014 Lead O/S Only the top pitch after Lots Groove; completely different, much thrutching. Chimney is hard to enter but easier after the chock-stone. 'Traditional' and maybe easier in boots? Full body workout, pretty nasty....
Only the top pitch after Lots Groove; completely different, much thrutching. Chimney is hard to enter but easier after the chock-stone. 'Traditional' and maybe easier in boots? Full body workout, pretty nasty....
robthered 22 Jun, 2014 AltLd Really nice route. Included 'Gibson's Chimney' pitch variation - recommended. And, yes, the final crack is a beast if your jamming isn't up to scratch... Ending with a mini epic of stuck rope, re-climbing an abseil, and another dose of stuck rope for good measure. "Instructional"
Really nice route. Included 'Gibson's Chimney' pitch variation - recommended. And, yes, the final crack is a beast if your jamming isn't up to scratch... Ending with a mini epic of stuck rope, re-climbing an abseil, and another dose of stuck rope for good measure. "Instructional"
Fragmod 20 Jun, 2014 Lead
JoeJegat 19 Jun, 2014 2nd RP First outdoor climb. Tricky hand traverse
with K Mckay
First outdoor climb. Tricky hand traverse
with K Mckay
Hidden 16 Jun, 2014 AltLd O/S
Hidden 15 Jun, 2014 AltLd O/S
JasonV 15 Jun, 2014 AltLd went for winter finish so no 4c tick. Final pitch quite slimey.
with Phil C, Alun
went for winter finish so no 4c tick. Final pitch quite slimey.
with Phil C, Alun
Goodstuff 14 Jun, 2014 AltLd O/S Pitches 2 and 4. Nice, varied climb.
with Ian Crook, Tim Howarth
Pitches 2 and 4. Nice, varied climb.
with Ian Crook, Tim Howarth
JamesWilliams 11 Jun, 2014 AltLd O/S moved together and pitched the final offwidth which dan lead. great route. bit wet in the cloud which made the final crack interesting !
moved together and pitched the final offwidth which dan lead. great route. bit wet in the cloud which made the final crack interesting !
Dan Hale 11 Jun, 2014 AltLd O/S Moving together, then pitched final off-width. Lovely rock but very slimey where wet. Climbed in the drizzle as the crag was inside a cloud.
Moving together, then pitched final off-width. Lovely rock but very slimey where wet. Climbed in the drizzle as the crag was inside a cloud.
mark4344 10 Jun, 2014 AltLd O/S had its moments in the wet. hand traverse greasy.luckily dried out on top pitch.
with Matt Payne
had its moments in the wet. hand traverse greasy.luckily dried out on top pitch.
with Matt Payne
cheeky 10 Jun, 2014 AltLd O/S
Helen Gibson 31 May, 2014 AltLd
with Jacquie
with Jacquie
jon59 30 May, 2014 Lead
Andrew Lester 19 May, 2014 -
luke glaister 16 May, 2014 AltLd rpt In 4 pitches and I did 2 and 4. Really good route. Thanks for letting me have the top pitch kc. Good honest hard work. But never h's 4c. 😂
In 4 pitches and I did 2 and 4. Really good route. Thanks for letting me have the top pitch kc. Good honest hard work. But never h's 4c. 😂
casey johns 16 May, 2014 2nd RP
MartF 3 May, 2014 AltLd O/S Lead P2 and 4.
with Stu Spencer
Lead P2 and 4.
with Stu Spencer
app 30 Mar, 2014 2nd
colinthomson5 29 Mar, 2014 Lead O/S
with app
with app
Si ??, 2014 -
nj.harris ??, 2014 -
Hidden ??, 2014 -
innesmac ??, 2014 -
waynekinrade ??, 2014 Lead
darrenpp ??, 2014 AltLd O/S
Allanfairfechan ??, 2014 AltLd
with Dave Woodcock
with Dave Woodcock
j.buckley87 23 Nov, 2013 Lead O/S Cold but good, snowy scramble to the top.
Cold but good, snowy scramble to the top.
beds74 21 Sep, 2013 AltLd Nice not as 'classic' as Main Wall say but some nice moves. Thought the rising crack pitch would be longer, short lived and not that easy to recognise at first. (Don't know what the leg jam would be about...) Top crack was tough for grade 5a top end? Ray gave it his all! Good effort buddy.
with Ray Sparks
Nice not as 'classic' as Main Wall say but some nice moves. Thought the rising crack pitch would be longer, short lived and not that easy to recognise at first. (Don't know what the leg jam would be about...) Top crack was tough for grade 5a top end? Ray gave it his all! Good effort buddy.
with Ray Sparks
Ray Sparks 21 Sep, 2013 AltLd O/S More like 5a crack finish
with beds74
More like 5a crack finish
with beds74
luke glaister 26 Aug, 2013 AltLd O/S What a fantastic route. Did in 5 pitches. I did 1 , 3 and 5. The top pitch is a beast. All I needed was music cause the leg was dancing. .. a great challenge.
What a fantastic route. Did in 5 pitches. I did 1 , 3 and 5. The top pitch is a beast. All I needed was music cause the leg was dancing. .. a great challenge.
mikestr555 24 Aug, 2013 AltLd O/S lead 2 and 4 pitches
lead 2 and 4 pitches
Gareth T 20 Aug, 2013 Lead dog Top pitch was well above HS grade, overhanging jamming crack!
with Jane Woulds
Top pitch was well above HS grade, overhanging jamming crack!
with Jane Woulds
Hidden 10 Aug, 2013 2nd O/S
Steve Woollard 10 Aug, 2013 Lead
Roget 3 Aug, 2013 AltLd O/S
with jim
with jim
steve prior ?Aug, 2013 AltLd
with Andy C
with Andy C
Prof. Outdoors 27 Jul, 2013 AltLd
with Wendy
with Wendy
JonParton 21 Jul, 2013 AltLd O/S Lead P2 and P4 (See below). Awesome climb and fairly easy going climbing untill the last pitch which is nails and no where near an HS unless you have practiced some crack technique. We unfortunately had done none and it meant we couldn't get the whole way up, instead we retreated and did the route just the other side of the corner, This this was meant to be a S but again felt harder with allot of off balance clibing - Maybe I was just tired! On a whole awesoe climb though and will come back one day after tackling a few more cracks and nail that last pitch!
Lead P2 and P4 (See below). Awesome climb and fairly easy going climbing untill the last pitch which is nails and no where near an HS unless you have practiced some crack technique. We unfortunately had done none and it meant we couldn't get the whole way up, instead we retreated and did the route just the other side of the corner, This this was meant to be a S but again felt harder with allot of off balance clibing - Maybe I was just tired! On a whole awesoe climb though and will come back one day after tackling a few more cracks and nail that last pitch!
Huw Mithan 21 Jul, 2013 AltLd
with Jonathan Parton
with Jonathan Parton
JCookie 20 Jul, 2013 AltLd I led 2nd pitch. We finished up Winter finish, so not a 4c tick. My first HS pitch though!
with Richard Plater
I led 2nd pitch. We finished up Winter finish, so not a 4c tick. My first HS pitch though!
with Richard Plater
Simon Caldwell 20 Jul, 2013 AltLd Had already done most of it many years ago, but did the true finish this time - which was easier than I'd built it up to be in my imagination. Hand traverse was much shorter than I remembered. This time I did it as a foot traverse, which is probably cheating as despite what the guidebook suggests, it's miles easier that way.
with Lemming
Had already done most of it many years ago, but did the true finish this time - which was easier than I'd built it up to be in my imagination. Hand traverse was much shorter than I remembered. This time I did it as a foot traverse, which is probably cheating as despite what the guidebook suggests, it's miles easier that way.
with Lemming
RiPomc 20 Jul, 2013 AltLd Did the winter finish, so no 4c tick. The final corner crack was too hard for me. Did a hand traverse but not entirely sure it was 'the' hand traverse.
with JCookie
Did the winter finish, so no 4c tick. The final corner crack was too hard for me. Did a hand traverse but not entirely sure it was 'the' hand traverse.
with JCookie
Hidden 20 Jul, 2013 AltLd O/S
Hidden 12 Jul, 2013 AltLd dog
More-On 12 Jul, 2013 AltLd O/S
scott mayled 9 Jul, 2013 AltLd O/S Can't believe last pitch is only HS more like VS, other than the last pitch it's relatively steady. Great day out!
Can't believe last pitch is only HS more like VS, other than the last pitch it's relatively steady. Great day out!
herman0055 9 Jul, 2013 AltLd
alaster tonge 30 Jun, 2013 AltLd With Gibson's and right hand crack
with Will Boxal
With Gibson's and right hand crack
with Will Boxal
Rupey 8 Jun, 2013 AltLd O/S
with alan
with alan
Hidden 1 Jun, 2013 Lead O/S
Rob84 1 Jun, 2013 AltLd O/S
with Ceara, mel_1
with Ceara, mel_1
Hidden 26 May, 2013 2nd
Zoomer 26 May, 2013 - Mmmm, a toughie to grade, HS all the way to the Final Crack then a very solid VS. It might be the original way but doesn't feel in keeping with the rest of the route. Hodgkinsons or Winter Finish would be more logical.
Mmmm, a toughie to grade, HS all the way to the Final Crack then a very solid VS. It might be the original way but doesn't feel in keeping with the rest of the route. Hodgkinsons or Winter Finish would be more logical.
Hidden 26 May, 2013 AltLd
KateBolton 25 May, 2013 2nd
mikehenesy ?May, 2013 Lead After a 3 hr walk in via the scenic glyder fawr and some elves and fantastic of the beaten track boulders. High in the shade and hence cold, sorry Kate and your numb hands. Did the winter finish this time which was excellent. Exciting abb back to the base.
with Kate
After a 3 hr walk in via the scenic glyder fawr and some elves and fantastic of the beaten track boulders. High in the shade and hence cold, sorry Kate and your numb hands. Did the winter finish this time which was excellent. Exciting abb back to the base.
with Kate
Willythegreat ??, 2013 AltLd "Hand traverse" is easier done as a foot traverse. Due to polish, top pitch =HS? Must of been on drugs when they graded it!!!! VS for sure!
"Hand traverse" is easier done as a foot traverse. Due to polish, top pitch =HS? Must of been on drugs when they graded it!!!! VS for sure!
TheAndyBarker ??, 2013 -
chris ginge ??, 2013 Lead
Richard Kinsman ??, 2013 Lead O/S
Daymo 27 Oct, 2012 AltLd dog Oh my life. DJ and I choose to climb this route in freezing conditions. We took our time and had to assess the situation of how freezing cold we were all of the time. We kept our heads and got it done. I dogged the last pitch with freezing hands and toes. Fantastic! Again and epic with my Erb DJ
Oh my life. DJ and I choose to climb this route in freezing conditions. We took our time and had to assess the situation of how freezing cold we were all of the time. We kept our heads and got it done. I dogged the last pitch with freezing hands and toes. Fantastic! Again and epic with my Erb DJ
deejmonkey 27 Oct, 2012 AltLd So very, very cold. Could not feel fingers or toes after first few metres, but we took time at each belay to warm up. Daymo did a heroic lead of the final pitch in the freezing conditions - felt a lot harder than HS.
with Daymo
So very, very cold. Could not feel fingers or toes after first few metres, but we took time at each belay to warm up. Daymo did a heroic lead of the final pitch in the freezing conditions - felt a lot harder than HS.
with Daymo
Darrell Read 29 Sep, 2012 Lead Very tough top pitch! Would have helped if I hadn't been using Alistairs rock shoes as I'd forgotten mine. Decided to abseil down the top pitch to clean it as Owen didn't fancy it and so we also did the Winter Finish.
Very tough top pitch! Would have helped if I hadn't been using Alistairs rock shoes as I'd forgotten mine. Decided to abseil down the top pitch to clean it as Owen didn't fancy it and so we also did the Winter Finish.
ads 22 Jul, 2012 AltLd
with Julie
with Julie
Hidden ?Jul, 2012 AltLd
carl_123 2 Jun, 2012 Lead O/S
wendynicholls 2 Jun, 2012 2nd O/S
with Dan Slome
with Dan Slome
Hidden 27 May, 2012 2nd
Hidden 26 May, 2012 -
fi15 26 May, 2012 2nd
Neil D 12 May, 2012 AltLd O/S Led P1,3,5.
with Betha.
Led P1,3,5.
with Betha.
Betha. 12 May, 2012 AltLd O/S
with Neil D
with Neil D
cameron_hall 12 May, 2012 Lead dnf Fun route. We took the Gibson's chimney variation, and then dodged up the gully to avoid the final pitch (which was looking unpleasant from the assessment of the party ahead). Should go back and do it properly.
with Miles Horton
Fun route. We took the Gibson's chimney variation, and then dodged up the gully to avoid the final pitch (which was looking unpleasant from the assessment of the party ahead). Should go back and do it properly.
with Miles Horton
mark20 24 Mar, 2012 AltLd O/S
tiga271 24 Mar, 2012 AltLd led 1st pitch and hand traverse, 'let' youth take final crack pitch ( thank god ! )
with mark20
led 1st pitch and hand traverse, 'let' youth take final crack pitch ( thank god ! )
with mark20
Stone Idle ??, 2012 -
Hidden ??, 2012 -
Hidden ??, 2012 -
goadventure1 ??, 2012 -
Darron ??, 2012 -
Ian JL ??, 2012 -
TheAndyBarker ??, 2012 -
TheAndyBarker ??, 2012 -
Hidden ??, 2012 -
Hidden ??, 2012 -
al99 15 Oct, 2011 AltLd O/S
with Lee Wales
with Lee Wales
Hidden 1 Oct, 2011 AltLd
SianR 1 Oct, 2011 AltLd Did in 4 pitches. Missed the hand traverse but saw it from above. I was not at all elegant grunting my way up the final pitch. Amazing though!
with Emily
Did in 4 pitches. Missed the hand traverse but saw it from above. I was not at all elegant grunting my way up the final pitch. Amazing though!
with Emily
Hidden 1 Oct, 2011 AltLd O/S
neal_haddadway 1 Sep, 2011 AltLd O/S
with Jonny Richard
with Jonny Richard
Hidden 17 Aug, 2011 AltLd O/S
Andrew Lester 15 Jun, 2011 AltLd O/S Billiant climb, the last pitch (corner crack) is interesting
Billiant climb, the last pitch (corner crack) is interesting
Fat Tim 4 Jun, 2011 Lead O/S Joe and Fidel went before us. Led in 5 pitches.
Joe and Fidel went before us. Led in 5 pitches.
joemallia 4 Jun, 2011 Lead O/S
hazeysunshine 4 Jun, 2011 AltLd O/S
Hidden 4 Jun, 2011 AltLd
skittles 1 May, 2011 AltLd O/S did the winter finish, as was heather's lead, but it was a really nice easy finish, with some good moves
with Heather Williams
did the winter finish, as was heather's lead, but it was a really nice easy finish, with some good moves
with Heather Williams
Kaiser999 ?May, 2011 -
with Derek
with Derek
aged_ape 29 Apr, 2011 AltLd O/S
Bex_M 29 Apr, 2011 AltLd
with Claire Ellwood
with Claire Ellwood
lithos 28 Apr, 2011 AltLd Pete did hand traverse, i did the finish which isn't that bad, looks intimidating though. Cold despite the sunshine (which doesn't arrive till 4)
Pete did hand traverse, i did the finish which isn't that bad, looks intimidating though. Cold despite the sunshine (which doesn't arrive till 4)
John H Bull (tcfka Bullybones) ??, 2011 -
rurp ??, 2011 Lead
Swirly ??, 2011 -
amthalmann 4 Sep, 2010 AltLd O/S
with Gerard
with Gerard
GOS 4 Sep, 2010 AltLd Easy going until you get to the top which is strenuous for HS (but excellent holds)
Easy going until you get to the top which is strenuous for HS (but excellent holds)
Hidden 3 Sep, 2010 AltLd
Tarquin 30 Aug, 2010 Lead
with Ness
with Ness
marcduhig 8 Aug, 2010 AltLd O/S Led last & second to last pitches. Used Gibson's Chimney (VS) and when up the fare right slanting chimney.
with Andrew
Led last & second to last pitches. Used Gibson's Chimney (VS) and when up the fare right slanting chimney.
with Andrew
Hidden 8 Aug, 2010 AltLd O/S
fizzychewitt 27 Jun, 2010 AltLd Gibsons Chimney was excellent. Final crack is nails, didn't think I'd make it even seconding!
with Dave
Gibsons Chimney was excellent. Final crack is nails, didn't think I'd make it even seconding!
with Dave
Hidden 27 Jun, 2010 AltLd O/S
Teshiie 26 Jun, 2010 2nd O/S My second climb outside, lead by Garry and Gerrard with LC&CC. great weather, great climb.
My second climb outside, lead by Garry and Gerrard with LC&CC. great weather, great climb.
david morse 22 Jun, 2010 AltLd O/S with direct chimney pitch. top pitch is brilliant, maybe a bit hard for hard severe...
with owain
with direct chimney pitch. top pitch is brilliant, maybe a bit hard for hard severe...
with owain
gilbert 20 Jun, 2010 AltLd O/S Alt leads Andy led 1st then 3 and 4 as a one mine was the 5th pitch; although I bridged up the right hand side of the ledge - couldn't find the hand traverse! Any led the last 2 pitches - no way the last pitch is only HS 4c
with Andy Holder
Alt leads Andy led 1st then 3 and 4 as a one mine was the 5th pitch; although I bridged up the right hand side of the ledge - couldn't find the hand traverse! Any led the last 2 pitches - no way the last pitch is only HS 4c
with Andy Holder
Glyn 18 Jun, 2010 Lead O/S
with Trystan
with Trystan
Ows ?Jun, 2010 AltLd
Graham Westbrook ?Jun, 2010 AltLd
mattkemp70 ?Jun, 2010 AltLd
with Westy
with Westy
Hidden 31 May, 2010 AltLd O/S
Rob Pitt 31 May, 2010 AltLd
with Helen Pitt
with Helen Pitt
matt.woodfield 15 May, 2010 AltLd O/S
birbeck 15 May, 2010 AltLd O/S
with Richard Heard
with Richard Heard
brian watson ?Jan, 2010 AltLd
scott titt ??, 2010 AltLd
Hidden 20 Sep, 2009 AltLd
jimorothy 18 Sep, 2009 AltLd Found a very steady climb until the final crack (orig finish) which was a big change in gear: brutal, like wrestling - with much grunting (def VS). A cracking finale!
with Rachel Crolla
Found a very steady climb until the final crack (orig finish) which was a big change in gear: brutal, like wrestling - with much grunting (def VS). A cracking finale!
with Rachel Crolla
adam06 11 Sep, 2009 AltLd did a harder variation of the first pitch cause the real pitch was very wet... other than that easy climbing.. till the last pitch which was well hard! had to rest on gear... defiantly atleast vs if you do the original finish.
with dan sturman
did a harder variation of the first pitch cause the real pitch was very wet... other than that easy climbing.. till the last pitch which was well hard! had to rest on gear... defiantly atleast vs if you do the original finish.
with dan sturman
Mike Roach 29 Aug, 2009 Lead dnf Took a group of three, leading all pitches. Was drizzling, cold and damp. I found the hand traverse impossible, since the layer of slime on the rock meant there was nothing for the feet, and all that was possible was hand over hand pullups for about 5 metres up the diagonal handrail on polished wet rock. Another party from our group was climbing the pitch above and brought me up on a top rope (basically pulled up!)
with Tom Giles
Took a group of three, leading all pitches. Was drizzling, cold and damp. I found the hand traverse impossible, since the layer of slime on the rock meant there was nothing for the feet, and all that was possible was hand over hand pullups for about 5 metres up the diagonal handrail on polished wet rock. Another party from our group was climbing the pitch above and brought me up on a top rope (basically pulled up!)
with Tom Giles
Hidden 27 Aug, 2009 AltLd dnf
asmith37 8 Aug, 2009 Lead O/S Thought the final pitch was a bit tough for the grade, well protected but sustained. I surprised i did it clean too, i normally slide out of this type of thing!
Thought the final pitch was a bit tough for the grade, well protected but sustained. I surprised i did it clean too, i normally slide out of this type of thing!
KeithW 25 Jul, 2009 AltLd O/S Winter Finish. Mike ran 1st 2 pitches together, so I did 3 & 5. The 'Hand Traverse' is overhyped, really it's nowt.
with Mike Nuttall
Winter Finish. Mike ran 1st 2 pitches together, so I did 3 & 5. The 'Hand Traverse' is overhyped, really it's nowt.
with Mike Nuttall
nakedave ?Jul, 2009 Lead
Mike Bayley 11 Jun, 2009 AltLd O/S Pitches 1, 2 & 4.
with Martin Stevens
Pitches 1, 2 & 4.
with Martin Stevens
mike_uk82 30 May, 2009 AltLd
jezb1 30 May, 2009 AltLd With Gibsons Chimney pitch. Nice long route, felt a bit disjointed though.
With Gibsons Chimney pitch. Nice long route, felt a bit disjointed though.
@ndy 2 May, 2009 AltLd
with calder
with calder
Calder 2 May, 2009 AltLd O/S
with @ndy
with @ndy
Noodles30 ?Apr, 2009 AltLd
climbingxcat 27 Sep, 2008 AltLd β followed K & J
with Brian
followed K & J
with Brian
Hidden 27 Sep, 2008 -
Hidden 18 Sep, 2008 AltLd
Hidden 24 Aug, 2008 AltLd
Peter Reynolds ?Aug, 2008 Solo
robo84 15 Jun, 2008 AltLd great climb great dayout
great climb great dayout
Clivest 8 Jun, 2008 2nd dnf
Hidden 8 Jun, 2008 AltLd O/S
Ewan Russell 8 Jun, 2008 Lead O/S Clive Freaked!
with Clivest
Clive Freaked!
with Clivest
leonjones 7 Jun, 2008 AltLd Finished via Hodgkin's variation
with Phil Barley and Max Streeton
Finished via Hodgkin's variation
with Phil Barley and Max Streeton
sammoore 11 May, 2008 AltLd O/S Winter Finish
with Will Sutcliffe
Winter Finish
with Will Sutcliffe
cas54321 ?May, 2008 2nd
mikelaing ?May, 2008 Lead
daveagriff ??, 2008 Lead
Hidden ??, 2008 AltLd
Hidden 5 Oct, 2007 2nd
dpmUK 29 Sep, 2007 AltLd dog Not nice - slimey and wet. Very, very glad to get to top. Led pitches 1 and 4.
Not nice - slimey and wet. Very, very glad to get to top. Led pitches 1 and 4.
Caralynh 29 Sep, 2007 AltLd Certainly not HS when cold and wet, and how come this is the only place I've climbed in Wales which becomes a slime fest when wet? May re-climb in better style when dry!
with dpmUK
Certainly not HS when cold and wet, and how come this is the only place I've climbed in Wales which becomes a slime fest when wet? May re-climb in better style when dry!
with dpmUK
Hidden 13 Sep, 2007 AltLd O/S
EAYL 11 Sep, 2007 AltLd With an alternative last pitch!
with Dr.Strangeglove
With an alternative last pitch!
with Dr.Strangeglove
Graeme Hammond 25 Aug, 2007 Lead O/S
with Pete aka Dad
with Pete aka Dad
Bristoldave ?Aug, 2007 Lead O/S
with Helen
with Helen
Hidden 8 Jun, 2007 AltLd
J R R Hartley 5 May, 2007 2nd O/S
with Captain Crag
with Captain Crag
Hidden 28 Apr, 2007 Lead
Hidden 28 Apr, 2007 AltLd O/S
Mark Stevenson 14 Apr, 2007 Solo O/S
HimTiggins 14 Apr, 2007 Lead O/S
with Paul
with Paul
Hidden 7 Apr, 2007 Lead O/S
Sean Kelly ??, 2007 -
brighters ??, 2007 -
EAYL 9 Sep, 2006 AltLd
with Iain, mike
with Iain, mike
givemetea 3 Aug, 2006 AltLd O/S
with Maggie
with Maggie
BALD EAGLE 8 Jul, 2006 Lead
with Christian Darr
with Christian Darr
Geras ?Jun, 2006 AltLd O/S
with Rich Barnes
with Rich Barnes
NewLeaf ?Jun, 2006 AltLd
with roslyn
with roslyn
mikehenesy ?Jun, 2006 AltLd O/S Cracking day out, think the last pitch may be VS? Bit confused. Good old fashioned thrutching inelegant but brilliant finish though. Those other boys, Dean Cook and the Asbridge lad, threw their toys out the pram and went for tea and stickies!
with Chris Lodge
Cracking day out, think the last pitch may be VS? Bit confused. Good old fashioned thrutching inelegant but brilliant finish though. Those other boys, Dean Cook and the Asbridge lad, threw their toys out the pram and went for tea and stickies!
with Chris Lodge
Pelleas 14 Apr, 2006 AltLd
with Norman
with Norman
Hidden ?Apr, 2006 2nd O/S
mikelaing ??, 2006 -
beardy mike ??, 2006 -
unfit ??, 2006 AltLd
with john N
with john N
Hidden 12 Nov, 2005 AltLd
Hidden 24 Sep, 2005 AltLd
Daigroom ?Sep, 2005 2nd
with Tim
with Tim
The Oracle 15 Aug, 2004 AltLd O/S
with Pete Taylor
with Pete Taylor
Jamie B ?Jun, 2004 AltLd
with Kris Quayle
with Kris Quayle
Small and weak ?May, 2004 AltLd
Bob M 11 Oct, 2003 Lead with winter finish
with Stewart Walker
with winter finish
with Stewart Walker
Hidden 22 Jul, 2003 AltLd
Becca_itd 22 Jul, 2003 AltLd
duncana 19 Jul, 2003 AltLd One short pitch for me (tried to make it longer though!).
with Pippa Archer
One short pitch for me (tried to make it longer though!).
with Pippa Archer
Gman ?Jul, 2003 AltLd O/S Tough 4c corner on last pitch.
with James
Tough 4c corner on last pitch.
with James
Tom M Williams ?Jul, 2003 2nd O/S
with Andy Davies
with Andy Davies
cpoad 28 Jun, 2003 Lead dog Had to hang on the difficult top pitch. Did the first two pitches as one and the 3rd and 4th as one.
with Rob R, Clare F
Had to hang on the difficult top pitch. Did the first two pitches as one and the 3rd and 4th as one.
with Rob R, Clare F
Hidden 16 Jun, 2003 2nd O/S
Mark Riley ?Jun, 2003 AltLd
jimshrimp 29 May, 2003 AltLd O/S
Hidden ??, 2003 -
Steve Lenartowicz ??, 2003 -
with Pammy
with Pammy
Stone Muppet ??, 2003 -
DerwentDiluted ?Nov, 2002 AltLd
with J. Ellson
with J. Ellson
nrg8125 28 Sep, 2002 AltLd
Hidden 15 Sep, 2002 AltLd
Ann S ?Sep, 2002 Lead dnf led as far as far side of hand traverse then fell off- Bill finished up the VS crack
with Bill Harrison
led as far as far side of hand traverse then fell off- Bill finished up the VS crack
with Bill Harrison
The Bad Cough 14 Jul, 2002 AltLd O/S
with Kate Hare, Mary Kirwin
with Kate Hare, Mary Kirwin
caradoc 13 Oct, 2001 AltLd O/S
with IanYarrol
with IanYarrol
Hidden 27 Jun, 2001 AltLd
Mike_T0501 27 Jun, 2001 AltLd
Bob M ?Jun, 2001 AltLd with final crack - quite a struggle
with Jill Stevens
with final crack - quite a struggle
with Jill Stevens
Hidden ?Jun, 2001 2nd
Antony Mariani ??, 2001 AltLd O/S
with rlrs
with rlrs
rlrs ??, 2001 AltLd
nigehughes ?Aug, 2000 Lead
with Toby Buchan
with Toby Buchan
Rob Oram 30 Jul, 2000 AltLd O/S I led the first and third pitches.
with Tom Asbridge
I led the first and third pitches.
with Tom Asbridge
cem 1 Jul, 2000 AltLd O/S
with GrahamD, Miles Butteriss
with GrahamD, Miles Butteriss
runestone 25 Jun, 2000 AltLd
with Blod
with Blod
Blod 25 Jun, 2000 AltLd O/S I led pitches 2,4 and 6 of the 7 pitches.
I led pitches 2,4 and 6 of the 7 pitches.
Rog Wilko ?Jun, 2000 AltLd Finished by Hodgkin's, which we thought was VS 4c.
with Debbie Wilkinson
Finished by Hodgkin's, which we thought was VS 4c.
with Debbie Wilkinson
alan moore ??, 2000 Solo
Hidden ??, 2000 -
runestone ??, 2000 -
John H Bull (tcfka Bullybones) ??, 2000 -
Darragh ?Jun, 1999 -
with Rob
with Rob
Ian Archer 16 May, 1999 Lead Really enjoyed the 'rectangular excursion' and hand traverse.
with Ian Moore
Really enjoyed the 'rectangular excursion' and hand traverse.
with Ian Moore
SimonN 1 May, 1999 AltLd
Simon Caldwell ?May, 1999 AltLd O/S Winter Finish
with Mike
Winter Finish
with Mike
BenTiffin ?Feb, 1999 Lead
mjeffery ??, 1999 -
Tony Buckley ?Jul, 1998 AltLd
FatRob 20 May, 1998 AltLd O/S
with Jim Strange
with Jim Strange
sixties 14 May, 1998 AltLd
with hrd
with hrd
Hidden ??, 1998 AltLd
Paul-Michael ??, 1998 AltLd O/S
with Nick Hanie
with Nick Hanie
IanGilbertJones 26 Oct, 1997 Lead O/S
Hidden 27 Jul, 1997 AltLd
stokienomad 6 Jul, 1997 Lead
Hidden 27 Jul, 1996 AltLd dog
Hidden 3 Aug, 1995 AltLd
Iain Brown 1 Jul, 1995 -
with Matthew, Phil
with Matthew, Phil
Budge ?Jul, 1995 AltLd O/S
with Richard Teed
with Richard Teed
Hidden 7 May, 1995 Lead
Hidden 29 Apr, 1994 Lead O/S
stokienomad ??, 1994 -
DavPk ??, 1993 AltLd
with Gareth Wood
with Gareth Wood
Ched ??, 1993 Lead O/S
with Glanfor
with Glanfor
Hidden 27 Apr, 1991 Lead
Hidden ??, 1990 -
phardman ??, 1990 -
Hidden 21 Jul, 1989 AltLd
babymoac 24 Jun, 1989 Lead
with Chris B
with Chris B
nigehughes ?Jun, 1988 Lead
with Mark Troy
with Mark Troy
Raggar 21 May, 1988 AltLd
with Steve B
with Steve B
rogerskews ??, 1988 -
with Richard Walters, Martin Coward
with Richard Walters, Martin Coward
Hidden 11 Oct, 1986 Solo O/S
michael burrows 17 Aug, 1986 AltLd O/S
with dave hatcher
with dave hatcher
Nigel Bond 11 May, 1986 Lead
with Chris
with Chris
Nick Biven ??, 1986 -
wynaptomos ?Jun, 1985 Solo
nigehughes ?Nov, 1983 AltLd
with Eric Joyce
with Eric Joyce
Rob Davies ?Jun, 1982 AltLd Last pitch was a struggle - still weak at jamming
with Angus McLean
Last pitch was a struggle - still weak at jamming
with Angus McLean
MikeDowsett ??, 1981 AltLd
with Jon Sharpe
with Jon Sharpe
clanger ??, 1981 -
with Client
with Client
Hidden ?Jul, 1979 Lead
DonnyDave 15 May, 1979 AltLd
with Steve Holgarth
with Steve Holgarth
mikej 28 Oct, 1978 Lead
with Andy Auty
with Andy Auty
Bolt Phobia 17 May, 1977 Lead
with Steve Astington
with Steve Astington
Simon cook ?Aug, 1975 -
Falko 15 Dec, 1974 AltLd O/S I have pencilled 'Snow and Ice' next to the route description in my copy of the Ron James guide.
with Bill Briggs
I have pencilled 'Snow and Ice' next to the route description in my copy of the Ron James guide.
with Bill Briggs
Mike Owen ?Aug, 1974 AltLd O/S
with John Roberts
with John Roberts
Hidden ??, 1969 Lead O/S
jcw 16 Oct, 1965 Lead
with Dai Rowlands
with Dai Rowlands
kjacks ??, 1964 2nd
with Dave Peers
with Dave Peers
oldmanofmow ?Jun, 1959 2nd Bob Caulkwell OUMC meet
Bob Caulkwell OUMC meet
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Voting
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
High HS
Mid HS
Low HS
Votes cast 80
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
High 4b
Mid 4b
Low 4b
Votes cast 49
Votes cast 79
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Not Set
Onsighted
Dogged
DNF
Flashed (β)
Redpoint
Repeated
Not Set