88m, 7 pitches.

Rockfax Description
A classic outing, varied and interesting with a devious but logical line. Very popular and it only has a couple of hard sections - the hand traverse on P3 and the final pitch. Start directly above the large conspicuous block of The Capstan.
1) 4a, 28m. Climb up the rib and cross over left beneath some blocks. Climb up through these rightwards to a grassy ledge with a huge bollard.
2) 4a, 20m. Climb the corner on the left then move delicately leftwards out across the face before striding round the arete to the jammed flake of The Arch. Belay further left.
3) 4b, 20m. Gain a ledge on the right then move up and swing across the hand-traverse to ledges above Gibson's Chimney. Continue to a good stance on the ledge of The Veranda.
4) 8m. Move the belay to the right-hand end of The Veranda to below the final corner.
4a) 18m. The Winter Finish, VDiff. A variant ending. Move left along the flakes and up the corner to the top.
5) 4c, 20m. Climb up right behind the large spike, then move back left to below the wide awkward Coffin Chimney and superb groove of Final Crack. Do battle with these and wonder at the pioneers who did it back in 1907! © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
7 Pitch

Ticklists: Classic Rock, North Wales Rock Graded List, 50 Best HS Routes in the UK., North Wales 100 Classic Climbs, ROCKFAX - Top 50 North Wales Climbs, Ultimate HS ticklist, The Ogwen 1000, The best the UK has to offer for mere mortals (apart from the lakes cos its always wet), 100 Best Wales Mid Grade Climbs, The Original 'Classic Rock' List.

Harry Padley 19/Nov/17 Lead O/S

Did the 4c Gibson's Chimney variation - felt hard for VS. Final pitch also felt hard for VS. Probably not helped by it being November and not being able to feel our hands.

Hidden 27/Aug/17 AltLd O/S
meanderthal 25/Aug/17 AltLd
suds_01 13/Aug/17 Lead O/S
with Billy
Dan77 03/Aug/17 AltLd O/S
Glyn Davidson 03/Aug/17 AltLd O/S

Dan did pitch 1 & 2 together ( as per UKC description). I went up to the bottom of Gibson's chimney, looked around the slab and figured it was too easy so went straight up Gibson's and to the "Veranda". Dan shifted the belay over and I got us up to the bottom of the last pitch. I let Dan go for it rather than hog all the glory to myself. We stuffed both rucksacks into one so the second carried a heavy bag. I thought I'd stitched Dan up by sending him up Gibson's with the heavy rucksuck but I soon felt Karma get me back as I was heading up the last pitch with both of our bags. Well protected throughout. Up until the last pitch it feels more like Severe. With Gibson's Chimney and the final pitch, VS seems about right. Very windy on the scramble and topped out in the clouds.

with Dan
AngelaC 29/Jul/17 Lead
with Richard
Sarah Coulthard 24/Jul/17 AltLd

Lovely mountain day out with Bex - missed the sun though!

rd20 24/Jul/17 AltLd O/S

RD P 2 and 5 (on this description) but 3 pts aid on P5. Glorious day starting in Ogwen Valley, Tryfan by Belle Vue Bastion, then Glydr Fach (best bit is the scramble to the summit after Direct Route) and then descent to Pen-y-Pass via Miners Path

with Jing
jing 24/Jul/17 AltLd O/S

Second part of our Tryfan+Glyder Fach enchainment. Started climbing at 3.20pm and topped out Glyder Fach at about 8.15pm. Back in car in Pen-y-Pass at 10pm via the miners' pass. I led P1, 3. Robert P2 and 4+5 together according to the description here (or me 1,2,5 and Robert 3,4,6,7 by the cc guidebook). It is a great route but not so much in condition. Vegetated and wet throughout until the last pitch. The last pitch was glorious though. Great fun (arm bar, hand jam, toe jam). Would agree this is VS. The final pitch can probably be climbed at 4c, but definitely not an easy one.

mattx1123 14/Jul/17 AltLd

led p2 & 4 (final crack). final crack tough, took a fall and redid without rucksack, more bridging and less getting sucked into the big crack.

Hidden 14/Jul/17 AltLd O/S
pingora 08/Jul/17 Lead O/S
AndyScheller 08/Jul/17 2nd O/S

I lead pitch 4 ;-)

James corfe 25/Jun/17 -
Hidden 21/Jun/17 AltLd O/S
uphillnow 21/Jun/17 AltLd


with Rik
Alfie Maun 21/Jun/17 AltLd
with Joe Fisher
Hidden 20/Jun/17 AltLd O/S
Clegm 18/Jun/17 AltLd
Hidden 17/Jun/17 AltLd O/S
kelly_426 17/Jun/17 AltLd


with Serena
davash91 17/Jun/17 2nd
fuzzysheep01 17/Jun/17 Lead O/S
Chris Murray 17/Jun/17 Lead

Led all the pitches. Did the rectangular excursion and coffin chimney.

with Richard Bower
fweatherall1 08/Jun/17 -
fweatherall1 08/Jun/17 AltLd
Theeni 03/Jun/17 AltLd O/S
Hidden 31/May/17 Lead
neal 07/May/17 AltLd O/S

Excellent route. Ran P1&2 together (2nd). Did P3+Gibson's Chimney (led), then the Final Crack Finish (led).

with Sophie W-J
67hours 07/May/17 Lead O/S

Superb finish!!

with Becky H
mattfarr 23/Apr/17 AltLd O/S

Interesting top pitch.

Mouse5 19/Apr/17 AltLd
JackM92 19/Apr/17 AltLd O/S

Class route. Really well protected, great belays...pretty straightforward at VS.

Hidden 13/Apr/17 AltLd O/S
Hidden 07/Apr/17 AltLd O/S
PAJames ??/2017 -
huwaaron 11/Oct/16 AltLd

Lead pitch 2 and Winter Diff, wanted to do the final crack but didn't like the look of it without cams, decided to build an anchor and top rope lotys wife before bailing on the winter diff. Was with Ste, gaining log days for his MIA training. It was cold and a lot of seepage.

Hidden 16/Aug/16 AltLd O/S
MarcinK 14/Aug/16 AltLd O/S

Easier option without 5a

with Jonny, GaborS
GaborS 14/Aug/16 AltLd O/S

Climbed last as part of a team of three on the first pitch, which was led by Jonny, our MIA leader. Seconded most pitches. really enjoyed the exposed traverse. Led last pitch, which was very wet and dirty, making it quite tricky. I could not find a proper crack for placement on the last section of the climb, so just pressed on. Very good anchors on the top.

with Marcin, Jonny
Hidden 14/Aug/16 AltLd O/S
LJC 09/Aug/16 Lead O/S

Mia client day. P 3,4,5 according to rockfax descriptions.

Hidden 06/Aug/16 2nd
Hidden 06/Aug/16 Solo O/S
Hidden 06/Aug/16 2nd
benwmorgan 24/Jul/16 AltLd
with Rollo
Rollo 24/Jul/16 AltLd O/S

All going well until I tried to finish up Left-Hand Crack and was scared off by the off-width. Escaped up up the winter Diff :(

with Ben M
Hidden 23/Jul/16 AltLd
Hidden 19/Jul/16 AltLd O/S
matt1024 23/Jun/16 AltLd O/S
with Alex C
AlexCib 23/Jun/16 AltLd O/S

Exciting and exposed climbing (the traverse round the corner on P2 was especially nerve-wracking on lead!) - a great adventure to round off the trip! Running out of time so we did the winter finish variation.

tom_drysdale 21/Jun/16 AltLd O/S

Done with the Gibson's chimney variation (4c). Really nice climb, and the scramble from the top to the summit of Glyder Fach was as fun as the climb itself!!

CRead 21/Jun/16 AltLd O/S

Done after Grooved Arete on Tryfan as a pretty big day out! Found it pretty bland until the last pitch which was wicked!

andrewmc 06/Jun/16 AltLd O/S

Moving together except for final pitch. Zack led pitches 1-4, I led 5-7. Final crack is horrendous for HS, although I was wearing a backpack and I can't jam for toffee (although plenty of thrutchy wedging certainly occurred).

Hidden 06/Jun/16 AltLd O/S
Hidden 05/Jun/16 Solo
j.anstee 03/Jun/16 AltLd O/S
Hidden 02/Jun/16 AltLd O/S
Hidden 02/Jun/16 AltLd
Steve Bartle 30/May/16 AltLd O/S

Great weaving route up some great rock. That last pitch is hilarious. Should be Vs 5a just to give you an idea what you're letting yourself in for, even though most of the route is pretty straightforward. P.s. don't go down Main Gulley!

with Dave S, Mark V-R
HazelMacLean 29/May/16 AltLd O/S

A grand day out! Especially enjoyed the hand traverse and the final pitch, especially as I got to use all Rosie and Louise's beta! Finished by scrambling down the ridge which was also fun in the sun.

Louise Hall 29/May/16 AltLd O/S

Trad isn't too bad when it's not cold and wet, who'd have thought it ey! Lovely day out for Rosie's birthday. Glad I wasn't leading the last pitch!

with Rosie H
Rosie Henstock 29/May/16 AltLd O/S

Climbed on my birthday as a jovial party of 4 with louise, hazel and alice. Especially enjoyed the last pitch once the bag had been dumped. Thanks for putting in a stirling effort just to meet my birthday wishes!

shed_hed 15/May/16 Solo O/S

Really nice weaving route. Opted for the Winter Finish in the end. Got to the crack on the final pitch but decided it looked too hard and polished to be a HS pitch (left the guidebook at the base); went and had a look at everything else which also looked hard and didn't fancy committing to, not knowing what they were so scooted off up the easiest looking option, which turned out to be the Winter Finish.

MikeLell 15/May/16 Solo

Ended up on this while getting into a muddle on Slab Route.

James Worthington 14/May/16 AltLd

Pitch 2 and final pitch. First lead fall. Hardest 4c I've done so far.

with Johnny
rosiehawker 14/May/16 AltLd O/S
C May 14/May/16 AltLd

Alternate leads 1&3 More like 5a for the last pitch

with Rosie
Hidden 23/Apr/16 AltLd
Ste Ridd 23/Apr/16 AltLd
davebrox ??/2016 -
Climbingspike ??/2016 -
Mike Roger ??/2016 -
Darron ??/2016 -
mountain musher ??/2016 AltLd
Wendy Watthews 10/Oct/15 AltLd O/S
arandall 10/Oct/15 AltLd dog
omaskrey 10/Oct/15 AltLd O/S

Done in 3 pitches with Gibson's Chimney

JoeCoxson 10/Oct/15 AltLd O/S

Done in 3 pitches with Gibson's Chimney variation. Nice way up the centre of the crag, the top pitch has great gear but is sustained and awkward as hell.

joermann 17/Sep/15 AltLd

Didn't fancy last pitch in the dark

Gerallt Owain 08/Sep/15 AltLd O/S
Louis Hume 17/Aug/15 Lead
with Jenny
Jenny Hall 17/Aug/15 2nd O/S

Great route very high in the grade and we both thought the final pitch (the crack) was 5a in fact we have done easier 5a's

with Louis
Wayne S 15/Aug/15 AltLd O/S

O.K. route, but not a three star classic in my book. Route was wet on every pitch on a dry day, suspect it needs a week of dry weather to be in condition. Perhaps three stars on half a dozen days a year! That said it was pretty dull and disjointed climbing. A great situation but does that alone make a classic?

with Dale
Dale Berry 15/Aug/15 AltLd O/S

Did not seem worthy of 3 stars. Even pitches as descirbed in CC guide, with The Winter Finish.

with Wayne S
Hidden 13/Aug/15 -
ChrisGard 13/Aug/15 AltLd
with Chris Lucas
dkd 12/Aug/15 Lead O/S
with Al
Tom Draude 12/Aug/15 AltLd O/S
with Chris Cockbain
chris cockbain 12/Aug/15 AltLd O/S
Allan Winstanley 08/Aug/15 AltLd

I don't understand how the last pitch can be graded 4C but the overall climb given hard severe. The last pitch is pretty unpleasant, especially for the right foot!

with Ken
Hidden 07/Aug/15 AltLd O/S
Hidden 02/Jul/15 Lead O/S
Hidden 12/Jun/15 AltLd
akhutton88 23/May/15 AltLd

Lead P1. Hand traverse was cool but there was a rather spicy move around the arête. Fair play to Brad for leading the final pitch, don't go into the crack - you won't get out! Don't think the last pitch is 4c, maybe 5a but there's plenty of gear.

with Brad
Hidden ??/2015 -
Hidden ??/2015 -
centurion05 ??/2015 -
Hidden ??/2015 -
Hidden 12/Oct/14 AltLd O/S
dtalbot 19/Sep/14 AltLd

Following CS and Roger. Definitely not 4c with packs on, as we walked over the top back to Pen-y-Gwyrd

with Wm
georgenvk 13/Sep/14 Lead O/S
with Becks87
Becks87 13/Sep/14 2nd O/S
bob johnson 13/Sep/14 AltLd
with Bram
maumau 04/Sep/14 AltLd
ralphio 04/Sep/14 AltLd O/S

Led pitch 1 and 3. Found the route technical in places, suprisingly the third pitch. Finished up the vdiff pitch as partner didn't manage the final VS pitch and running out of light. Climbed at the end of a marathon days climbing in the ogwen valley, 11 hours car to car.

with Maumau
Hidden 16/Aug/14 Lead O/S
Hidden 16/Aug/14 AltLd O/S
Denry 16/Aug/14 2nd β

An adventurous route with exciting climbing from the outset. First the Teetering Leg Traverse, followed by the Pocketed Downclimb. Look out for the Bilberry Cam Placement preceding the Hand Traverse of Doom. The winter finish with the greasy Corner of Death provides a fitting close to the drama, climaxing on the knife edged Block of Damocles. Best done in gale force winds with a fine drizzle in failing light.

charvey 09/Aug/14 AltLd O/S

I led the first and last pitches, matt joined the middle two together. The first pitch was poor and vegetated, the second and third had some interest and the final pitch was a lovely groove with a hand crack on the side. Dawn and Sam backed off the last pitch and did the v. dif finish instead. Later a rock the size of a microwave came within a few metres of me as Matt tried to free their abseil ropes form the east gully. :-( Later a rock the size of a microwave came past me as Matt tried to free another pairs

saraguti 09/Aug/14 -
Matt Harmon 09/Aug/14 AltLd O/S

Led P2 and P3

Dawn_K_B 09/Aug/14 AltLd O/S

Not sure it deserves 3 stars. The VDiff alternate pitch was the best on the route..!

Hidden 07/Aug/14 AltLd
Mike Tutt 20/Jul/14 Lead
Kate Edhouse 04/Jul/14 AltLd
erbridger 04/Jul/14 AltLd
Kate Edhouse 30/Jun/14 AltLd O/S

All good, the last pitch is hard and v.strenuous

thehugehead 29/Jun/14 Lead dnf

Slow group on route. Bloke demanded "No one else should be on the route at the same time". Wouldn't allow to climb through. Shame.

LDJ 29/Jun/14 AltLd

With Hodgkin's variation

with Alfie
K Mckay 26/Jun/14 Lead O/S

Led all pitches. Joe's first outdoor climb.

DanielGyi 26/Jun/14 AltLd O/S
James Oakes 25/Jun/14 AltLd O/S

With Gibson's chimney variation. Led last pitch. Felt more like VS than HS.

Pinguville 23/Jun/14 2nd O/S

only top pitch , after lots groove . found chimney very tricky and strenuous !

with George
George_Surf 23/Jun/14 Lead O/S

Only the top pitch after Lots Groove; completely different, much thrutching. Chimney is hard to enter but easier after the chock-stone. 'Traditional' and maybe easier in boots? Full body workout, pretty nasty....

robthered 22/Jun/14 AltLd

Really nice route. Included 'Gibson's Chimney' pitch variation - recommended. And, yes, the final crack is a beast if your jamming isn't up to scratch... Ending with a mini epic of stuck rope, re-climbing an abseil, and another dose of stuck rope for good measure. "Instructional"

Fragmod 20/Jun/14 Lead
JoeJegat 19/Jun/14 2nd RP

First outdoor climb. Tricky hand traverse

Hidden 16/Jun/14 AltLd O/S
Hidden 15/Jun/14 AltLd O/S
JasonV 15/Jun/14 AltLd

went for winter finish so no 4c tick. Final pitch quite slimey.

with Phil C, Alun
Goodstuff 14/Jun/14 AltLd O/S

Pitches 2 and 4. Nice, varied climb.

with Ian Crook, Tim Howarth
JamesWilliams 11/Jun/14 AltLd O/S

moved together and pitched the final offwidth which dan lead. great route. bit wet in the cloud which made the final crack interesting !

Dan724 11/Jun/14 AltLd O/S

Moving together, then pitched final off-width. Lovely rock but very slimey where wet. Climbed in the drizzle as the crag was inside a cloud.

mark4344 10/Jun/14 AltLd O/S

had its moments in the wet. hand traverse greasy.luckily dried out on top pitch.

with Matt Payne
cheeky 10/Jun/14 AltLd O/S
Helen Gibson 31/May/14 AltLd
with Jacquie
jon59 30/May/14 Lead
Andrew Lester 19/May/14 -
luke glaister 16/May/14 AltLd rpt

In 4 pitches and I did 2 and 4. Really good route. Thanks for letting me have the top pitch kc. Good honest hard work. But never h's 4c. 😂

casey johns 16/May/14 2nd RP
MartF 03/May/14 AltLd O/S

Lead P2 and 4.

with Stu Spencer
app 30/Mar/14 2nd
colinthomson5 29/Mar/14 Lead O/S
Si ??/2014 -
nj.harris ??/2014 -
Hidden ??/2014 -
innesmac ??/2014 -
waynekinrade ??/2014 Lead
darrenpp ??/2014 AltLd O/S
Allanfairfechan ??/2014 AltLd
with Dave Woodcock
j.buckley87 23/Nov/13 Lead O/S

Cold but good, snowy scramble to the top.

beds74 21/Sep/13 AltLd

Nice not as 'classic' as Main Wall say but some nice moves. Thought the rising crack pitch would be longer, short lived and not that easy to recognise at first. (Don't know what the leg jam would be about...) Top crack was tough for grade 5a top end? Ray gave it his all! Good effort buddy.

with Ray Sparks
Ray Sparks 21/Sep/13 AltLd O/S

More like 5a crack finish

with paul
luke glaister 26/Aug/13 AltLd O/S

What a fantastic route. Did in 5 pitches. I did 1 , 3 and 5. The top pitch is a beast. All I needed was music cause the leg was dancing. .. a great challenge.

mikestr555 24/Aug/13 AltLd O/S

lead 2 and 4 pitches

Gareth T 20/Aug/13 Lead dog

Top pitch was well above HS grade, overhanging jamming crack!

with Jane Woulds
Hidden 10/Aug/13 2nd O/S
Steve Woollard 10/Aug/13 Lead
Roget 03/Aug/13 AltLd O/S
with jim
Hidden ?/Aug/13 AltLd
Prof. Outdoors 27/Jul/13 AltLd
with Wendy
JonParton 21/Jul/13 AltLd O/S

Lead P2 and P4 (See below). Awesome climb and fairly easy going climbing untill the last pitch which is nails and no where near an HS unless you have practiced some crack technique. We unfortunately had done none and it meant we couldn't get the whole way up, instead we retreated and did the route just the other side of the corner, This this was meant to be a S but again felt harder with allot of off balance clibing - Maybe I was just tired! On a whole awesoe climb though and will come back one day after tackling a few more cracks and nail that last pitch!

Huw Mithan 21/Jul/13 AltLd
with Jonathan Parton
JCookie 20/Jul/13 AltLd

I led 2nd pitch. We finished up Winter finish, so not a 4c tick. My first HS pitch though!

with Richard Plater
Simon Caldwell 20/Jul/13 AltLd

Had already done most of it many years ago, but did the true finish this time - which was easier than I'd built it up to be in my imagination. Hand traverse was much shorter than I remembered. This time I did it as a foot traverse, which is probably cheating as despite what the guidebook suggests, it's miles easier that way.

with Carmen
RiPomc 20/Jul/13 AltLd

Did the winter finish, so no 4c tick. The final corner crack was too hard for me. Did a hand traverse but not entirely sure it was 'the' hand traverse.

Hidden 20/Jul/13 AltLd O/S
Hidden 12/Jul/13 AltLd dog
More-On 12/Jul/13 AltLd O/S
scott mayled 09/Jul/13 AltLd O/S

Can't believe last pitch is only HS more like VS, other than the last pitch it's relatively steady. Great day out!

herman0055 09/Jul/13 AltLd
alaster tonge 30/Jun/13 AltLd

With Gibson's and right hand crack

with Will Boxal
Rupey 08/Jun/13 AltLd O/S
with alan
Hidden 01/Jun/13 Lead O/S
Hidden 01/Jun/13 AltLd O/S
Hidden 26/May/13 2nd
Zoomer 26/May/13 -

Mmmm, a toughie to grade, HS all the way to the Final Crack then a very solid VS. It might be the original way but doesn't feel in keeping with the rest of the route. Hodgkinsons or Winter Finish would be more logical.

Hidden 26/May/13 AltLd
KateBolton 25/May/13 2nd
mikehenesy ?/May/13 Lead

After a 3 hr walk in via the scenic glyder fawr and some elves and fantastic of the beaten track boulders. High in the shade and hence cold, sorry Kate and your numb hands. Did the winter finish this time which was excellent. Exciting abb back to the base.

with Kate
Andrew will wilson ??/2013 AltLd

"Hand traverse" is easier done as a foot traverse. Due to polish, top pitch =HS? Must of been on drugs when they graded it!!!! VS for sure!

TheAndyBarker ??/2013 -
senior rita ??/2013 Lead
Richard Kinsman ??/2013 Lead O/S
Daymo 27/Oct/12 AltLd dog

Oh my life. DJ and I choose to climb this route in freezing conditions. We took our time and had to assess the situation of how freezing cold we were all of the time. We kept our heads and got it done. I dogged the last pitch with freezing hands and toes. Fantastic! Again and epic with my Erb DJ

with DJ
deejmonkey 27/Oct/12 AltLd

So very, very cold. Could not feel fingers or toes after first few metres, but we took time at each belay to warm up. Daymo did a heroic lead of the final pitch in the freezing conditions - felt a lot harder than HS.

with Damian
Darrell Read 29/Sep/12 Lead

Very tough top pitch! Would have helped if I hadn't been using Alistairs rock shoes as I'd forgotten mine. Decided to abseil down the top pitch to clean it as Owen didn't fancy it and so we also did the Winter Finish.

ads 22/Jul/12 AltLd
with Julie
Hidden ?/Jul/12 AltLd
carl_123 02/Jun/12 Lead O/S
wendynicholls 02/Jun/12 2nd O/S
with Dan Slome
Hidden 27/May/12 2nd
guy757 26/May/12 -
fi15 26/May/12 2nd
Neil D 12/May/12 AltLd O/S

Led P1,3,5.

Betha. 12/May/12 AltLd O/S
with Neil D
cameron_hall 12/May/12 Lead dnf

Fun route. We took the Gibson's chimney variation, and then dodged up the gully to avoid the final pitch (which was looking unpleasant from the assessment of the party ahead). Should go back and do it properly.

with Miles Horton
mark20 24/Mar/12 AltLd O/S
tiga271 24/Mar/12 AltLd

led 1st pitch and hand traverse, 'let' youth take final crack pitch ( thank god ! )

with mark20
Stone Idle ??/2012 -
Hidden ??/2012 -
Hidden ??/2012 -
goadventure1 ??/2012 -
Darron ??/2012 -
Ian JL ??/2012 -
TheAndyBarker ??/2012 -
TheAndyBarker ??/2012 -
Hidden ??/2012 -
Hidden ??/2012 -
al99 15/Oct/11 AltLd O/S
with Lee Wales
Hidden 01/Oct/11 AltLd
SianR 01/Oct/11 AltLd

Did in 4 pitches. Missed the hand traverse but saw it from above. I was not at all elegant grunting my way up the final pitch. Amazing though!

with Emily
Hidden 01/Oct/11 AltLd O/S
neal_haddadway 01/Sep/11 AltLd O/S
with Jonny Richard
Hidden 17/Aug/11 AltLd O/S
Andrew Lester 15/Jun/11 AltLd O/S

Billiant climb, the last pitch (corner crack) is interesting

Fat Tim 04/Jun/11 Lead O/S

Joe and Fidel went before us. Led in 5 pitches.

joemallia 04/Jun/11 Lead O/S
hazeysunshine 04/Jun/11 AltLd O/S
with Sue H
Hidden 04/Jun/11 AltLd
skittles 01/May/11 AltLd O/S

did the winter finish, as was heather's lead, but it was a really nice easy finish, with some good moves

with Heather Williams
Kaiser999 ?/May/11 -
with Derek
aged_ape 29/Apr/11 AltLd O/S
Bex_M 29/Apr/11 AltLd
with Claire Ellwood
lithos 28/Apr/11 AltLd

Pete did hand traverse, i did the finish which isn't that bad, looks intimidating though. Cold despite the sunshine (which doesn't arrive till 4)

Bullybones ??/2011 -
rurp ??/2011 Lead
Swirly ??/2011 -
amthalmann 04/Sep/10 AltLd O/S
with Gerard
GOS 04/Sep/10 AltLd

Easy going until you get to the top which is strenuous for HS (but excellent holds)

Hidden 03/Sep/10 AltLd
Tarquin 30/Aug/10 Lead
with Ness
marcduhig 08/Aug/10 AltLd O/S

Led last & second to last pitches. Used Gibson's Chimney (VS) and when up the fare right slanting chimney.

with Andrew
Hidden 08/Aug/10 AltLd O/S
fizzychewitt 27/Jun/10 AltLd

Gibsons Chimney was excellent. Final crack is nails, didn't think I'd make it even seconding!

with Dave
Hidden 27/Jun/10 AltLd O/S
Teshiie 26/Jun/10 2nd O/S

My second climb outside, lead by Garry and Gerrard with LC&CC. great weather, great climb.

david morse 22/Jun/10 AltLd O/S

with direct chimney pitch. top pitch is brilliant, maybe a bit hard for hard severe...

with owain
gilbert 20/Jun/10 AltLd O/S

Alt leads Andy led 1st then 3 and 4 as a one mine was the 5th pitch; although I bridged up the right hand side of the ledge - couldn't find the hand traverse! Any led the last 2 pitches - no way the last pitch is only HS 4c

with Andy Holder
Glyn 18/Jun/10 Lead O/S
with Trystan
Ows ?/Jun/10 AltLd
Graham Westbrook ?/Jun/10 AltLd
mattkemp70 ?/Jun/10 AltLd
with Westy
Hidden 31/May/10 AltLd O/S
Rob Pitt 31/May/10 AltLd
with Helen Pitt
matt.woodfield 15/May/10 AltLd O/S
birbeck 15/May/10 AltLd O/S
with Richard Heard
Hidden ??/2010 AltLd
Hidden 20/Sep/09 AltLd
jimorothy 18/Sep/09 AltLd

Found a very steady climb until the final crack (orig finish) which was a big change in gear: brutal, like wrestling - with much grunting (def VS). A cracking finale!

with Rachel Crolla
adam06 11/Sep/09 AltLd

did a harder variation of the first pitch cause the real pitch was very wet... other than that easy climbing.. till the last pitch which was well hard! had to rest on gear... defiantly atleast vs if you do the original finish.

with dan sturman
Mike Roach 29/Aug/09 Lead dnf

Took a group of three, leading all pitches. Was drizzling, cold and damp. I found the hand traverse impossible, since the layer of slime on the rock meant there was nothing for the feet, and all that was possible was hand over hand pullups for about 5 metres up the diagonal handrail on polished wet rock. Another party from our group was climbing the pitch above and brought me up on a top rope (basically pulled up!)

with Tom Giles
Hidden 27/Aug/09 AltLd dnf
asmith37 08/Aug/09 Lead O/S

Thought the final pitch was a bit tough for the grade, well protected but sustained. I surprised i did it clean too, i normally slide out of this type of thing!

KeithW 25/Jul/09 AltLd O/S

Winter Finish. Mike ran 1st 2 pitches together, so I did 3 & 5. The 'Hand Traverse' is overhyped, really it's nowt.

with Mike Nuttall
nakedave ?/Jul/09 Lead
Mike Bayley 11/Jun/09 AltLd O/S

Pitches 1, 2 & 4.

with Martin Stevens
mike_uk82 30/May/09 AltLd
jezb1 30/May/09 AltLd

With Gibsons Chimney pitch. Nice long route, felt a bit disjointed though.

@ndy 02/May/09 AltLd
with calder
Calder 02/May/09 AltLd O/S
Noodles30 ?/Apr/09 AltLd
climbingxcat 27/Sep/08 AltLd β

followed K & J

with Brian
Hidden 27/Sep/08 -
Hidden 18/Sep/08 AltLd
Hidden 24/Aug/08 AltLd
Peter Reynolds ?/Aug/08 Solo
robo84 15/Jun/08 AltLd

great climb great dayout

Clivest 08/Jun/08 2nd dnf
Hidden 08/Jun/08 AltLd O/S
Ewan Russell 08/Jun/08 Lead O/S

Clive Freaked!

with Clive
leonjones 07/Jun/08 AltLd

Finished via Hodgkin's variation

with Phil Barley and Max Streeton
sammoore 11/May/08 AltLd O/S

Winter Finish

with Will Sutcliffe
cas54321 ?/May/08 2nd
with Mike
daveagriff ??/2008 Lead
Hidden ??/2008 AltLd
Hidden 05/Oct/07 2nd
dpmUK 29/Sep/07 AltLd dog

Not nice - slimey and wet. Very, very glad to get to top. Led pitches 1 and 4.

Caralynh 29/Sep/07 AltLd

Certainly not HS when cold and wet, and how come this is the only place I've climbed in Wales which becomes a slime fest when wet? May re-climb in better style when dry!

Hidden 13/Sep/07 AltLd O/S
EAYL 11/Sep/07 AltLd

With an alternative last pitch!

with Dr.Strangeglove
Graeme Hammond 25/Aug/07 Lead O/S
with Pete aka Dad
Bristoldave ?/Aug/07 Lead O/S
with Helen
Hidden 08/Jun/07 AltLd
J R R Hartley 05/May/07 2nd O/S
with Captain Crag
Hidden 28/Apr/07 Lead
Hidden 28/Apr/07 AltLd O/S
Mark Stevenson 14/Apr/07 Solo O/S
HimTiggins 14/Apr/07 Lead O/S
with Paul
Hidden 07/Apr/07 Lead O/S
Sean Kelly ??/2007 -
brighters ??/2007 -
EAYL 09/Sep/06 AltLd
with Iain, mike
givemetea 03/Aug/06 AltLd O/S
with Maggie
BALD EAGLE 08/Jul/06 Lead
with Christian Darr
Geras ?/Jun/06 AltLd O/S
with Rich Barnes
NewLeaf ?/Jun/06 AltLd
with roslyn
mikehenesy ?/Jun/06 AltLd O/S

Cracking day out, think the last pitch may be VS? Bit confused. Good old fashioned thrutching inelegant but brilliant finish though. Those other boys, Dean Cook and the Asbridge lad, threw their toys out the pram and went for tea and stickies!

with Chris Lodge
Pelleas 14/Apr/06 AltLd
with Norman
Hidden ?/Apr/06 2nd O/S
mikelaing ??/2006 -
beardy mike ??/2006 -
unfit ??/2006 AltLd
with john N
Hidden 12/Nov/05 AltLd
Hidden 24/Sep/05 AltLd
Daigroom ?/Sep/05 2nd
with Tim
The Oracle 15/Aug/04 AltLd O/S
with Pete Taylor
Jamie B ?/Jun/04 AltLd
with Kris Quayle
mike fenwick ?/May/04 AltLd
with Ben Pearce
Bob M 11/Oct/03 Lead

with winter finish

with Stewart Walker
Hidden 22/Jul/03 AltLd
duncana 19/Jul/03 AltLd

One short pitch for me (tried to make it longer though!).

with Pippa Archer
Gman ?/Jul/03 AltLd O/S

Tough 4c corner on last pitch.

with James
Tom M Williams ?/Jul/03 2nd O/S
with Andy Davies
cpoad 28/Jun/03 Lead dog

Had to hang on the difficult top pitch. Did the first two pitches as one and the 3rd and 4th as one.

with Rob R, Clare F
Hidden 16/Jun/03 2nd O/S
Mark Riley ?/Jun/03 AltLd
jimshrimp 29/May/03 AltLd O/S
Hidden ??/2003 -
Steve Lenartowicz ??/2003 -
with Pammy
Stone Muppet ??/2003 -
DerwentDiluted ?/Nov/02 AltLd
with J. Ellson
nrg8125 28/Sep/02 AltLd
Ann S ?/Sep/02 Lead dnf

led as far as far side of hand traverse then fell off- Bill finished up the VS crack

with Bill Harrison
The Bad Cough 14/Jul/02 AltLd O/S
with Kate Hare, Mary Kirwin
caradoc 13/Oct/01 AltLd O/S
with IanYarrol
Hidden 27/Jun/01 AltLd
Mike_T0501 27/Jun/01 AltLd
Bob M ?/Jun/01 AltLd

with final crack - quite a struggle

with Jill Stevens
Hidden ?/Jun/01 2nd
Antony Mariani ??/2001 AltLd O/S
with rlrs
rlrs ??/2001 AltLd
nigehughes ?/Aug/00 Lead
with Toby Buchan
Rob Oram 30/Jul/00 AltLd O/S

I led the first and third pitches.

with Tom Asbridge
cem 01/Jul/00 AltLd O/S
with Graham Dolman, Miles Butteriss
runestone 25/Jun/00 AltLd
with Blod
Blod 25/Jun/00 AltLd O/S

I led pitches 2,4 and 6 of the 7 pitches.

Rog Wilko ?/Jun/00 AltLd

Finished by Hodgkin's, which we thought was VS 4c.

with Debbie Wilkinson
alan moore ??/2000 Solo
Hidden ??/2000 -
runestone ??/2000 -
Bullybones ??/2000 -
Darragh ?/Jun/99 -
with Rob
Ian Archer 16/May/99 Lead

Really enjoyed the 'rectangular excursion' and hand traverse.

with Ian Moore
Simon Caldwell ?/May/99 AltLd O/S

Winter Finish

with Mike
BenTiffin ?/Feb/99 Lead
mjeffery ??/1999 -
Tony Buckley ?/Jul/98 AltLd
sixties 14/May/98 AltLd
with hrd
Hidden ??/1998 AltLd
Paul-Michael ??/1998 AltLd O/S
with Nick Hanie
IanGilbertJones 26/Oct/97 Lead O/S
Hidden 27/Jul/97 AltLd
stokienomad 06/Jul/97 Lead
Hidden 27/Jul/96 AltLd dog
Hidden 03/Aug/95 AltLd
Budge ?/Jul/95 AltLd O/S
with Richard Teed
Hidden 07/May/95 Lead
Hidden 29/Apr/94 Lead O/S
stokienomad ??/1994 -
DavPk ??/1993 AltLd
with Gareth Wood
Ched ??/1993 Lead O/S
with Glanfor
Hidden 27/Apr/91 Lead
Chris Craggs ??/1990 -
with Dave Spencer
phardman ??/1990 -
Hidden 21/Jul/89 AltLd
babymoac 24/Jun/89 Lead
with Chris B
nigehughes ?/Jun/88 Lead
with Mark Troy
Raggar 21/May/88 AltLd
with Steve B
rogerskews ??/1988 -
with Richard Walters, Martin Coward
Hidden 11/Oct/86 Solo O/S
michael burrows 17/Aug/86 AltLd O/S
with dave hatcher
Nigel Bond 11/May/86 Lead
with Chris
Nick Biven ??/1986 -
wynaptomos ?/Jun/85 Solo
nigehughes ?/Nov/83 AltLd
with Eric Joyce
Rob Davies ?/Jun/82 AltLd

Last pitch was a struggle - still weak at jamming

with Angus McLean
MikeDowsett ??/1981 AltLd
with Jon Sharpe
Hidden ?/Jul/79 Lead
mikej 28/Oct/78 Lead
with Andy Auty
Bolt Phobia 17/May/77 Lead
with Steve Astington
Simon cook ?/Aug/75 -
Falko 15/Dec/74 AltLd O/S

I have pencilled 'Snow and Ice' next to the route description in my copy of the Ron James guide.

with Bill Briggs
Mike Owen ?/Aug/74 AltLd O/S
with John Roberts
Hidden ??/1969 Lead O/S
jcw 16/Oct/65 Lead
with Dai Rowlands
kjacks ??/1964 2nd
with Dave Peers
oldmanofmow ?/Jun/59 2nd

Bob Caulkwell OUMC meet

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High HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
High HS
Mid HS
Low HS
Votes cast 66
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
High 4b
Mid 4b
Low 4b
Votes cast 36
Votes cast 66
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Not Set