Dates: 1 March to 30 June
Reason: Nesting Birds
Kestrels nest on the crag but no formal restriction is in place as they are not Schedule 1 (legally protected) or locally rare birds. If they are in residence on the crag, please climb past their nest site as quickly as possible taking care not to cause any damage and limit disturbance.
Rockfax Description
Start as for Paradise at the base of the rib. A good second pitch.
1) 4a, 20m. Climb easily up a crack to a ledge and a 2m high finger of rock (as for Paradise). Step right to a vegetated corner next to a small pillar of rock. Gain the top of the pillar awkwardly then head up cracks to a large flake and grassy belay ledge.
2) 4b, 16m. Climb the wall 3m right of the large flake to reach the start of a crack. Follow the crack to the top. The crack is hardest at the start but well protected. © Rockfax
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Grade: VS 5a ***
(Grey Crag (Buttermere))