Rockfax Description
III, 1350m, 1 day. A historic route up the Glacier du Chardonnet.
Approach - From the Col des Grands Montets (the top of the cable car) descend the Glacier des Rognons east to reach the Glacier d'Argentière. The best route for this will depend on the state of the glacier but generally it involves heading towards the Moraine des Rognons and passing just south of Pte. 2754m. Once on the glacier, turn southeast and make directly for the Refuge d'Argentière. Follow the vague path from the Refuge d'Argentière leading to the toe of the Glacier du Milieu.
1) Climb snow slopes, or moraine and scree depending on conditions, to reach the glacier itself.
2) Follow the glacier to reach a 100m long couloir coming down from the northwest ridge.
3) Climb this (low-angled mixed ground) to reach the ridge itself.
4) Follow the ridge easily on snow and over the odd short rock step to reach the summit.
Descent - Either of the Whymper of the Milieu routes can be descended, just check with the hut guardian which one they recommend. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
The original route up the peak. PD+/AD-.

Ticklists: Rosie's Broken Alpine Dreaming.

Dom Goodwin 08/Aug/16 -
with JJ
Bcrich01 11/Sep/15 AltLd
Webster 07/Jul/12 AltLd O/S

moved together. far harder than the Ad- grade in the guide book, and there was nop obvious way from the top of the couloir to the summit, so we had to do a dodgey and dangerous traverse accross unstable snopw slopes to reach the normal route to the summit. we may have taken the wrong couloir, but it was the 'obvious couloir' described in the book. there were better looking gullies available which looked about Ad- which we maybe should have taken.

vvanhinsbergh 05/Jul/08 AltLd O/S
with Steve Williams
Scotsken ?/Feb/08 AltLd

Did as a traverse with ski descent of Glacier d'Milieu

Hidden ?/Jun/07 -
garethsteel ?/Jul/02 AltLd O/S
rlrs ?/Sep/00 AltLd

In descent

Antony Mariani ?/Sep/00 AltLd O/S
with rlrs
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