Rockfax Description
Jugtastic, and a bit bold too. Start 5m right of the gully, just right of a block on the ground. Climb into the left-hand sandy cave then continue up juggy rock above. Pull through the prominent notch in the flat roof, to an easy finish. © Rockfax

FA. Paul Harrison 1984

Ticklists: Burbage, Millstone and Beyond Routes Graded List.

Marl 10/Oct/16 Lead O/S

Roped solo lead. Very green & slimey on slab

Sam Woodward 21/Sep/16 2nd O/S
with HenDog
hirving 21/Sep/16 Lead O/S

some of the holds and gear placement feel a bit questionable and past the overhang is a bit green but still a great route

with Woody
TobyA 17/Sep/16 Lead dnf

Lots of creaky flakes and moving holds, slightly dodgy runners then incredibly green and lichen covered above the overhang. Found some ok holds amongst the green but couldn't see any more gear so down climbed before I totally pumped out.

with Jody
john max 11/Sep/16 2nd
Keenb 10/Sep/16 Lead O/S
with Simon Oliver
doyle12 10/Sep/16 -
with Ben
Hidden 01/Sep/16 Solo O/S
JasonK 17/Aug/16 2nd
with Alex H., Kieran W.
Andy Moles 16/Aug/16 Solo
Mayaculpa 06/Aug/16 TR
with dbm
Hidden 06/Aug/16 TR O/S
trouserburp 30/Jul/16 2nd
Pixie-Andy 23/Jul/16 Lead O/S

Loose blocks, check your nut placements.

teh_mark 23/Jul/16 2nd
with Alan Murray, Joe Potter
Fred Lazell 23/Jul/16 2nd O/S
Tony Kartawick 23/Jul/16 Lead
dynodean 23/Jul/16 Lead β
with Kev
Gentleman Joe 23/Jul/16 Lead O/S
max_chan 17/Jul/16 Lead rpt
with Lou
Antonio Ferra ?/Jul/16 Lead O/S
with dan
drolex 22/Jun/16 2nd
with AndyS
Hidden 22/Jun/16 2nd
Clama 21/Jun/16 Lead O/S

It felt like indoor climbing on real rock! At least up to the crux...

JasonK 21/Jun/16 Lead
with Greg
Capricorn One 21/Jun/16 2nd
with JasonK
jonhowson 21/Jun/16 2nd O/S


chancer 05/Jun/16 2nd
with Ed Wigmore
dr_botnik 13/Sep/15 2nd O/S
with neil
Ardo 13/Sep/15 Lead O/S
with Rob
charley 05/Sep/15 Lead O/S
with JackD
Jackwd 05/Sep/15 2nd rpt
Luke90 12/Aug/15 Lead O/S
with Liz
Hidden 12/Aug/15 2nd O/S
sopaz 02/Aug/15 Lead
with Mackie
Palmer 02/Aug/15 Lead

enjoyable and differnt

Shannyb 05/Jul/15 2nd O/S
alex goodall 05/Jul/15 Lead
with Shannyb
yossarian714 30/Jun/15 Lead O/S
with Mynydd Duncan
caradoc 16/Jun/15 Lead O/S

I spent far too much time fiddling wth gear placements, interesting holds.

with nick yapp
Duncan Beard ?/Jun/15 2nd
tatz45 26/May/15 Lead O/S
john max 24/May/15 Lead
john_ni 23/May/15 Lead O/S

upper slab green & slippy, escaped left to holds, no way could pad up slab today

fuzzysheep01 22/Mar/15 Lead O/S
MattKettle 22/Mar/15 2nd O/S
Hidden 14/Sep/14 Lead
Derek Furze 05/Sep/14 Lead
with Paul Wheeler
Matt Harmon 05/Sep/14 Lead O/S
pete1993 05/Sep/14 2nd O/S
Nick1812P 05/Sep/14 Lead O/S

Really nice juggy climbing.

with India
amccann 05/Sep/14 Solo O/S
indiarara 05/Sep/14 2nd O/S
with Nick
Luke Jones 24/Aug/14 2nd
Freshprintce 24/Aug/14 Lead O/S
barneytrubble ?/Aug/14 2nd
Nigel Bond 11/Jul/14 Lead
with Colin Hutton
Hidden 14/Jun/14 Lead O/S
Nevil 12/Jun/14 2nd
with Mike
sishaw 11/Jun/14 Lead O/S
Hidden 11/Jun/14 2nd O/S
GermanAlex 08/Jun/14 Lead O/S

Glorious jug hauling until you get caught out by the roof and have to switch on your head for a second.

with Jack
Hidden 31/May/14 Lead O/S
cragsman9000 18/May/14 Lead O/S

Looked intimidating from the bottom. This is probably partly due to the fact that it's not really possible to step back from the base of the crag to take in the route, so the steep section looks imposing. But there are plenty of great holds to be found. Just place your gear below the crux and pull your way through.

with Neil
bob_cbr 18/May/14 2nd O/S
nick ferro 03/May/14 -
with Oli Birkill
jimbonfire 19/Apr/14 Lead O/S
Hidden 19/Apr/14 2nd rpt
kermit_uk 19/Apr/14 Lead O/S
AshBash 19/Apr/14 Lead
with Mike
thetradlad 18/Apr/14 2nd O/S
Harry Thorpe 18/Apr/14 Lead O/S
khalidq 23/Aug/13 2nd O/S
with Stephen Cousins, Nick Whelan
RosieLynch 10/Aug/13 2nd O/S
john lynch 10/Aug/13 Lead
with rosie
Nick Rundall 16/Jul/13 -
with John Cooper
DaveB61 11/Jul/13 Lead
MikeDowsett 11/Jul/13 2nd
chrisbussell 09/Jul/13 Lead
with Tim O'Neill
Ade in Sheffield 07/Jul/13 Lead
with Adam Engineer
Griff1990 07/Jul/13 2nd O/S
with Adrian, Sub-Club
Half Pint Lizz 06/Jul/13 2nd O/S
with Nick P
kim.mulji 06/Jul/13 Lead O/S
with Thea
angie ?/Jul/13 2nd
Hidden 30/Jun/13 Lead O/S
Hidden 30/Jun/13 2nd
the power 29/Jun/13 Lead O/S
with deacon
claregardiner 25/Jun/13 2nd
Jackwd 10/Jun/13 Lead O/S

Joyous jug pulling!

with Nigel Berry
mikealexpayne 09/Jun/13 Lead
Hidden 09/Jun/13 Lead O/S
Becky E 09/Jun/13 2nd rpt

Excellent route - good work Maia for first VS lead!

with Maia
ColinD 09/Jun/13 2nd
with Keith
Hidden 09/Jun/13 2nd
Hidden 09/Jun/13 Lead O/S
Yanis Nayu 08/Jun/13 2nd O/S
with Andy
JHiley 07/Jun/13 Lead O/S

Probably the most indoor style VS ive done. Even with bright green holds in the upper part to indicate difficulty.

with Zuzana
Alkis 02/Jun/13 2nd O/S
Paul Phillips - UKC and UKH 01/Jun/13 Solo O/S
Bry 01/Jun/13 Lead O/S
hang_about 25/May/13 2nd
Hidden 05/May/13 Lead O/S
NickJH ?/Apr/13 Lead O/S
with Andy Cross
keith leonard ??/2013 Lead
Wyrdwired ??/2013 Lead O/S
JonBray 09/Sep/12 Lead O/S
with Charlie
runestone 08/Sep/12 Lead
with Liz, jeff
jessyb 08/Sep/12 2nd

Brilliant climb! Just overhanging a little in some places. Great holds, great rock. Unfortunately, the top section was like wet green velvet but hey, I was on a nice top rope so it didn't bother me!!

with Charlie
Jim Slater 11/Aug/12 Lead O/S
john_ni 08/Aug/12 Lead O/S
Graeme Hammond 08/Aug/12 2nd rpt
gazfellows 22/Jul/12 Lead
with Brad, Lara, Nic
madasten 22/Jul/12 Lead
with Miquel, Gaz
hotfeet 14/Jul/12 Lead
with Mac
Hidden 14/Jul/12 2nd
Gary A S 19/Jun/12 Lead O/S
with Anna
jimorothy 27/May/12 2nd

end of day, led up, went wrong i.e over to E1, fell off twice, out of steam, followed scot up normal route, hours retreiving a walked cam - Barney likes me not!

with Scott Barnett
Hidden 27/May/12 2nd
claregardiner 26/May/12 Lead
richyg 26/May/12 2nd
cem 24/Mar/12 2nd rpt
with Elise Belle, Graham Dolman
PAJames ??/2012 -
tzettle ??/2012 -
Brannock 01/Oct/11 Lead O/S

With Robbie, steep and sustained.

Hidden 01/Oct/11 2nd O/S
Hidden 24/Sep/11 2nd
Hoyes 21/Aug/11 2nd rpt
alexyoung 21/Aug/11 2nd O/S
with Ali
Batt 21/Aug/11 Lead O/S

Nice n juggy

gianpaolo 14/Aug/11 2nd O/S
with Sarah
Rob84 30/Jul/11 Lead O/S
with Andy F
andybirtwistle 28/Jul/11 Lead
with Keith Lonsdale
keith Lonsdale 28/Jul/11 2nd
Hidden 02/Jul/11 2nd
Hidden 02/Jul/11 Lead O/S
Budge 06/May/11 2nd O/S
with Brian Mattock, Carl Tiivas
Paul D Jones 24/Apr/11 Lead O/S
dprctr 24/Apr/11 2nd β
joemallia 23/Apr/11 Lead O/S
doomer 22/Apr/11 -
Hidden 17/Apr/11 Lead rpt
Graeme Hammond 10/Apr/11 Lead rpt

well worth doing again :)

with Becky E
skittles 10/Apr/11 Lead O/S

Great route!

with Heather Williams
Becky E 10/Apr/11 2nd O/S
robal 10/Apr/11 Lead O/S
with corin wilson
richyg 09/Apr/11 Lead
claregardiner 09/Apr/11 Lead
Jonathan Hall 05/Sep/10 Lead
disturbed_one51 05/Sep/10 2nd
Shane-Smith 03/Sep/10 Lead
Hidden 30/Aug/10 2nd O/S
Jim Malo 09/Aug/10 2nd O/S
with Barry
fatbuoybazza 09/Aug/10 Lead O/S


with jim, TimG
lucasp 24/Jul/10 Lead O/S


with masa
masa-alpin 24/Jul/10 2nd β

Very nice climb!

with P Luke
Hidden 24/Jul/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 10/Jul/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 10/Jul/10 2nd O/S
Dizz 10/Jul/10 Lead O/S
with jt
MD 03/Jul/10 Lead
with Heg
Hidden 27/Jun/10 Lead
Richard G Wilkinson 12/Jun/10 Lead O/S
with Dimitris Perdikou
dimwit18 12/Jun/10 Lead O/S
keefe 05/Jun/10 -
with Tansy
Fat Tim 31/May/10 Lead O/S
lithos 23/May/10 2nd
with ian everett
Hidden 23/May/10 Lead O/S
moreno ?/May/10 Lead O/S
with Rob Stone
ieverett ?/May/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 24/Apr/10 2nd
Dogmusher 24/Apr/10 Lead
with Johan Piper
Anthony Dixon 24/Apr/10 Lead
cem 24/Apr/10 2nd rpt
with Jenny Andexer, Paul Bolton
Hidden 11/Apr/10 2nd O/S
Hidden 11/Apr/10 Lead
disturbed_one51 10/Apr/10 Lead
bigbobbyking 10/Apr/10 2nd

Unlikely looking, going through very steep ground, but the holds are massive :-)

with Chris Allan
chrisallan 10/Apr/10 Lead O/S
tigertim 13/Mar/10 Lead O/S

Fascinating formations/errosion of rock

with James Noble
leepip 20/Sep/09 Lead O/S
with justine
Hidden 12/Sep/09 AltLd
Ketu 10/Sep/09 2nd O/S
with Nigel
tri-nitro-tuolumne 10/Sep/09 Lead O/S
with Rob Truckle
Byronius Maximus 30/Aug/09 Lead O/S

Steep, juggy and great fun. Felt like it was low in the grade, although there was less protection than I expected.

Twisty 30/Aug/09 2nd O/S

Nice jug fest

with Rayan Sammut, Byron Buck
Hidden 30/Aug/09 2nd
Mrs Weasel 22/Aug/09 Lead

very entertaining and didn't seem that difficult

JiveWeasel 22/Aug/09 2nd
AsleepOnBelay 08/Aug/09 Lead O/S

Absolutely hilarious, I chuckled all the way. Ridiculous jug fest up the steep lower section where each hold was a bigger, more improbable jug than the last. Nicked the thread from fred which made the section to the pull onto the slab above feel safe as houses. Loved the move onto the slab, just superb all round.

with Sarah Davis
Different Steve 08/Aug/09 Lead O/S
with Emma Hawkins
tradguy 08/Aug/09 Lead O/S
with John Mitchener
cpoad 08/Aug/09 Lead O/S
with Jamie L
Mark_RMC 02/Aug/09 Lead

A superb route up the steep overhanging wall on a series of good jugs. All the gear you want. Very 3D but in an interesting and enjoyable way. Very rounded holds at the top of the main wall make for an interesting exit. Maude's face was hilarious coming over the top. Really good.

with Colin & Maude
RalphC 27/Jul/09 Lead
with Caroline
valentinesbabe 04/Jul/09 2nd O/S
teflonpete 27/Jun/09 Lead O/S
with Barry
3kidsandanorton 27/Jun/09 2nd
Milne 13/Jun/09 Lead O/S

top quality, steep and juggy.

Laurence Everitt 01/Jun/09 Lead O/S
with Shaggy
Hidden 31/May/09 Lead
adam carless 19/Apr/09 Lead

Feels like a mountain route - big but temporary-feeling holds hidden amongst greenery. Feels quite adventurous.

with Jon_nz
mjeffery 19/Apr/09 Lead
LardClimber 18/Apr/09 2nd O/S
with Dave Williams
Hidden 02/Sep/08 Lead
Duck Egg ?/Sep/08 Lead β

Fantastic, yarding up jug after jug. Its just over too quickly.

Stig 11/Aug/08 2nd O/S
with Charlie Reade-Jahn
Reaver2k 05/Aug/08 Lead O/S

Felt pretty easy really although slightly poorly protected. Some of the rock is a little rotten but the route is brilliant! Jug fest all the way up from the bottom to the niche, you feel like some sort of hulk on a VS! Got round the niche with not too much difficulty, used the big slot to the left for my left hand a little just to get in balance think that was ok! Moved straight up the slab slightly right if anything to reach the clump of grass. Was unsure whether to take a belay there so I could try and get in contact with Matt because it was extremely windy, decided it was impossible even from there so thought I'd get up to the top anyway and figure it out from there. Set up a belay and luckily the belayer of the climber next to me took a peek round the niche so I put a thumbs up to him and pulled on the rope and Matt got the idea. Matt seemed to struggle a bit more getting round the niche but enjoyed it all I think!

Hidden 27/Jul/08 2nd O/S
Hidden 26/Jul/08 Lead O/S
nienke 26/Jul/08 2nd
with Adam Young
tobydunford 13/Jul/08 Lead O/S
with Harry Martin
Graeme Hammond 24/Jun/08 Lead O/S

beautiful!!!!!!!!!!!!!! needs more stars

shed_hed 24/Jun/08 2nd O/S
Adam1973 31/May/08 Lead O/S
with Big Ian
Hidden 03/May/08 2nd O/S
catblack ?/May/08 2nd
with rob
Matthallinan 02/Apr/08 Lead
with Nicky Winn
Hidden ??/2008 -
bob3141 04/Nov/07 Lead O/S
Jesse Dufton 04/Nov/07 2nd
with bob3141
RichardMc 15/Sep/07 2nd
with Graham Sheey
RichardMc 27/Aug/07 2nd
with Len Riley
mooseloose 26/Aug/07 Lead O/S
with Nina & Sunil
RichardMc 25/Aug/07 Lead O/S
with Angel Vila
Hidden 12/Aug/07 Solo
Hidden 11/Aug/07 Lead O/S
max_chan 11/Aug/07 2nd rpt
with Steve
max_chan 04/Aug/07 Lead O/S
with Lou
Hidden ?/Jul/07 2nd
Hidden ?/Jul/07 Lead O/S
Hidden 17/Jun/07 Lead O/S
just wanna climb 11/Jun/07 Lead O/S

Enjoyable. Jugfest.

with Liz in Sheffield
Hidden 03/Jun/07 2nd
Roget 15/Apr/07 Lead O/S
baldcoder 07/Apr/07 Lead O/S
with Little Old Lady
jimbobimbo 06/Apr/07 Lead O/S
with Gro
Hidden ??/2007 Lead O/S
KeithW 16/Jul/06 Lead O/S

First VS 4c on grit (which is what counts) for 20-odd years.

with Bruce
dicky79 15/Jul/06 Lead O/S
with Eddie
K Wall 10/Jun/06 2nd
with Martin
Hidden 03/Jun/06 Lead
cem 03/Jun/06 Lead O/S
with Eric Olson
Hidden ?/Apr/06 2nd
Skell ??/2006 Lead O/S
with Sian
Hidden 17/Jul/05 2nd rpt
sdht ??/2004 -
Phil West 09/Aug/03 Lead O/S
with Chris Tan
Simon Caldwell 20/Jul/03 2nd O/S
with Ian A
Hidden ?/Apr/03 Lead
Hidden 03/Aug/02 Lead
DerwentDiluted 21/Jun/02 Lead
with Laurie Smith
17 users have this on their wishlist
High HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
High HS
Mid HS
Low HS
Votes cast 52
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
High 4b
Mid 4b
Low 4b
Votes cast 53
Votes cast 51
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Not Set