20m.

Rockfax Description
Cross the roof directly below the rib between the twin caves and head straight up the bulging wall (thread out left) to the roof. Power over this 1.5m right of Barney Rubble's notch. © Rockfax

FA. Mike Appleton 1996

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Burbage, Millstone and Beyond Routes Graded List

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UserDateNotes
Duz Walker 14 Jun, 2007 Show βeta
βeta: Wonderful stuff, huge holds, huggable pillars and a friendly rooflet.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Wonderful stuff, huge holds, huggable pillars and a friendly rooflet.
Frank the Husky 7 Aug, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: the pull over the roof seemed almost too close to barney rubble...it's only 4ft after all, but a very good, bucket pulling route. excellent!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: the pull over the roof seemed almost too close to barney rubble...it's only 4ft after all, but a very good, bucket pulling route. excellent!
krisb 24 Jul, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: Thought the move onto the lip seemed a bit harsh - "where are the holds"? I kept asking myself and now I've found the answer!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Thought the move onto the lip seemed a bit harsh - "where are the holds"? I kept asking myself and now I've found the answer!
Nick Smith - Climbers 18 Apr, 2003 Show βeta
βeta: The hard pull over the lip may now be a bit harder - a very useful foothold snapped off as I was rocking over on it earlier today (memo to self - lose some weight ;)
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: The hard pull over the lip may now be a bit harder - a very useful foothold snapped off as I was rocking over on it earlier today (memo to self - lose some weight ;)
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Logged Ascents

UserDateStyleNotes & Partners
jack89 15 Jul, 2018 Lead O/S Proper good roof move.
Proper good roof move.
Hidden 15 Jul, 2018 2nd
Hidden 1 Jul, 2018 Lead O/S
LMS 28 May, 2018 2nd This was filthy today.. Shame as some of it was great otherwise! Getting over the overhang really tough so cheated round it, which actually was more in keeping with the rest anyway.
This was filthy today.. Shame as some of it was great otherwise! Getting over the overhang really tough so cheated round it, which actually was more in keeping with the rest anyway.
climberchristy 28 May, 2018 Lead O/S Absolutely filthy at crux roof, so much so that had to go too far left which is actually the more logical line. Not a great route - not sure how it gets 2 stars?
with LMS
Absolutely filthy at crux roof, so much so that had to go too far left which is actually the more logical line. Not a great route - not sure how it gets 2 stars?
with LMS
FaffmasterG 28 May, 2017 Lead O/S
kermit_uk 9 Apr, 2017 Lead O/S
cem 9 Apr, 2017 2nd rpt
with Kirill, Ricardo Da Silva
with Kirill, Ricardo Da Silva
Kirill 9 Apr, 2017 Lead
with Ricardo Da Silva, cem
with Ricardo Da Silva, cem
climb the peak ??, 2017 -
Rocknast ??, 2017 2nd O/S
Hidden 23 Jul, 2016 Lead
Theo Moore - UKC and UKH 13 Sep, 2015 Lead O/S
Luke90 12 Aug, 2015 Lead O/S Currently rather filthy on the juggy climbing low down, to the extent that some otherwise lovely holds were quite slippery, even in bone dry conditions.
Currently rather filthy on the juggy climbing low down, to the extent that some otherwise lovely holds were quite slippery, even in bone dry conditions.
Hidden 12 Aug, 2015 2nd dnf
steveb2006 7 Aug, 2015 Lead
Ian Hylands 12 Jul, 2015 2nd Splendid route. Got quite pumped trying to retrieve some stubborn gear. Crossing roof would have felt bold on lead, I think.
with Antonio Ferra
Splendid route. Got quite pumped trying to retrieve some stubborn gear. Crossing roof would have felt bold on lead, I think.
with Antonio Ferra
AsleepOnBelay 9 Jul, 2015 Lead O/S It's all about the move... And not getting rope drag from the pro below! The move was made that much more fun having my belay jacket wrapped round my middle like an inflatable ri ng. Enjoyable.
with ian
It's all about the move... And not getting rope drag from the pro below! The move was made that much more fun having my belay jacket wrapped round my middle like an inflatable ri ng. Enjoyable.
with ian
Antonio Ferra ?Jul, 2015 Lead O/S
with Iain
with Iain
Hidden 26 May, 2015 Lead O/S
OliverRoss 21 Jun, 2014 Lead β Worth doing it for the move.
with Alkis
Worth doing it for the move.
with Alkis
harold walmsley 18 May, 2014 2nd O/S
with Colin Struthers
with Colin Struthers
ColinD 9 Jul, 2013 2nd
keith leonard 9 Jul, 2013 Lead
kim.mulji 6 Jul, 2013 2nd O/S
with Thea
with Thea
claregardiner 25 Jun, 2013 2nd
Hidden 9 Jun, 2013 Lead O/S
froglette 9 Jun, 2013 2nd
with johnpr
with johnpr
chrisclimber_1986 2 Jun, 2013 2nd
with Alkis
with Alkis
Alkis 2 Jun, 2013 Lead O/S A bit of an one move wonder, the crux was nice but the the bottom section was not as interesting as Barney Rubble, IMHO. There was a broken hold just below the roof but it didn't seem to make much of a difference.
A bit of an one move wonder, the crux was nice but the the bottom section was not as interesting as Barney Rubble, IMHO. There was a broken hold just below the roof but it didn't seem to make much of a difference.
Hidden 5 May, 2013 2nd β
john_ni 8 Aug, 2012 2nd dnf
Graeme Hammond 8 Aug, 2012 Lead O/S Good, but slightly unbalanced route as the crux is much harder than anything else on the route and makes it more like E1 as per BMC guide. Small broken hold under the roof makes no difference.
with john_ni
Good, but slightly unbalanced route as the crux is much harder than anything else on the route and makes it more like E1 as per BMC guide. Small broken hold under the roof makes no difference.
with john_ni
Steven Andrews 27 May, 2012 Lead O/S Seems to be a hold broken off just below the last roof so finnished up Barney Rubble. Sustained and pumpy but great climbing.
with Andrew Marshall
Seems to be a hold broken off just below the last roof so finnished up Barney Rubble. Sustained and pumpy but great climbing.
with Andrew Marshall
ushi 27 May, 2012 Lead
with Ramsey
with Ramsey
Andrew Barker 1 Aug, 2010 2nd O/S
with Speeddemonsi, Jack Symmons
with Speeddemonsi, Jack Symmons
Speeddemonsi 1 Aug, 2010 Lead O/S
Hidden 13 Jun, 2010 Lead O/S
Hidden 26 Sep, 2009 2nd O/S
tradguy 26 Sep, 2009 2nd O/S
with Mark Hazell
with Mark Hazell
sishaw 26 Sep, 2009 Lead O/S Went too far left at bulge but it made sense.
Went too far left at bulge but it made sense.
Ketu 10 Sep, 2009 Lead O/S
simonp ?Jun, 2009 Lead O/S
with Annelies Sarrazyn
with Annelies Sarrazyn
mjeffery 19 Apr, 2009 2nd
steveb2006 8 Jun, 2008 2nd
with Paul E
with Paul E
max_chan 10 May, 2008 Lead O/S E1 in BMC guide. Which I think it is.
E1 in BMC guide. Which I think it is.
Hidden 3 May, 2008 Lead dnf
Joe Dove 26 Aug, 2007 2nd
with paul
with paul
steveb2006 3 Jun, 2007 Lead
dicky79 15 Jul, 2006 Lead dnf Fell off the top move. Big pull over a lip onto slopers. I'm short and my feet were off doing to the pull up!! Should have thrown my foot up to the right.
with Eddie
Fell off the top move. Big pull over a lip onto slopers. I'm short and my feet were off doing to the pull up!! Should have thrown my foot up to the right.
with Eddie
dicky79 15 Jul, 2006 2nd β
with Eddie
with Eddie
KristianBirchall 10 Jun, 2006 Lead O/S Lost hold so crossed roof at barney rubble
with Claire Chadderton
Lost hold so crossed roof at barney rubble
with Claire Chadderton
Skell ??, 2006 Lead O/S
with Sian
with Sian
steveb2006 23 May, 2004 Lead Sneak left at roof avoiding crux - rock very green, though Pete seconds direct
with Pete Carter
Sneak left at roof avoiding crux - rock very green, though Pete seconds direct
with Pete Carter
Hidden ?Apr, 2003 2nd
cem 31 Aug, 2002 2nd
with Rob Smithies, GrahamD
with Rob Smithies, GrahamD
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Voting
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
Votes cast 20
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
Votes cast 19
Votes cast 19
Style of ascent
Lead
Followed
Not Set
Onsighted
DNF
Flashed (β)
Repeated
Not Set