Rockfax Description
A moorland classic; worth the hike up. High in the grade. Start in a green corner below the roof and trend left past the arete. Climb straight up the steep wall then trend strenuously rightwards through the bulges, keeping just above the lip of the overhang, to a tricky pull to ledges (possible stance). From here finish up and left via a final delicate slab or sneak off up Central Climb. © Rockfax

FA. Ted Howard et al. 1957

Ticklists: ROCKFAX Eastern Grit: Top 50, ROCKFAX Eastern Grit (2006): Top 500, Burbage, Millstone and Beyond Routes Graded List, Steve Ashton's 100 Classic Gritstone Climbs, Peak Gritstone S-HVS **+, World Graded List, Ultimate HVS ticklist, Rockfax Eastern Grit (2015) Top 50, Burbage, Millstone and Beyond in 3 stars, Definitive *** Peak Grit, Eastern Grit 2 star plus (HVS/VS/HS).

Mark Pickrell 04/Nov/17 Lead O/S

Bit cold/green at the top out to the ledge.

with Dick
royle883 29/Oct/17 Lead O/S
Hidden 24/Sep/17 Lead O/S
Hidden 24/Sep/17 2nd
HenryMeier 20/Sep/17 2nd dog
mrphilipoldham 20/Sep/17 Lead O/S

Good honest hard work, delighted to get it onsight as nearly pumped out at the last move. Finished right up the crack as rain was inbound. Wouldn't say it was the best HVS on grit, or anywhere near.. but if jug hauling is your thing..!

tebs 28/Aug/17 Lead O/S
with Steve
Hidden 28/Aug/17 Lead O/S
Nigel Coe 21/Jun/17 2nd
with Amnon
bryce.dorin 18/Jun/17 Lead
with Valentina, MattAcres
Hidden 17/Jun/17 Lead O/S
GregClixby 28/May/17 2nd β
Hidden 28/May/17 Lead dog
foobar123 28/May/17 Lead β

Led on Wheatcroft's gear as I wanted the lead but no-one was around to second. I think this made it significantly easier, as you don't get nearly as pumped placing the gear! I really enjoyed it though, so will definitely be back for the real thing!

Hidden 10/May/17 Lead O/S
Flavio 01/May/17 Solo O/S
Katsmiff 09/Apr/17 2nd dnf

The final slab was a scary mission. We quit as we were being blown about up there. Too breezy for a balancy slab.

Rafal Malczyk 09/Apr/17 Lead O/S
cem 09/Apr/17 2nd rpt
with Kirill Spiridonov, Ricardo Da Silva
Kirill 09/Apr/17 Lead
with Ricardo Da Silva, Charles Moreton
Haydn Jones 09/Apr/17 Lead O/S
with Dan tubridy
Hidden 08/Apr/17 2nd dog
Keiran.A 07/Apr/17 Lead O/S
with Piggle
climb the peak ??/2017 -
Keith Swainson 26/Nov/16 Lead O/S
with Georgie
Georgie25 26/Nov/16 2nd
Hidden 09/Oct/16 2nd dnf
Hidden 09/Oct/16 Lead O/S
PaulTanton 11/Sep/16 2nd O/S
with Bruce Woodley
Hidden 01/Sep/16 Solo O/S
JasonK 17/Aug/16 Lead

Annoyingly one rest on gear. Shame as none of the moves are hard and the holds are massive - just V. sustained steepness. Best just to get on with it.

with Alex H., Kieran W.
Andy Moles 16/Aug/16 Solo

Pretty great, though the top slab doesn't feel like part of the route at all.

Droyd 06/Aug/16 Lead O/S

Best HVS on grit? Did the slab finish, which definitely feels E1, as the crack to the right was occupied.

with Emily
trouserburp 30/Jul/16 Lead O/S
Pixie-Andy 23/Jul/16 Lead O/S

A heart thumping & strenuous classic! Plenty to go wrong, right through to the last move (the sting in the tail, goes at 5a) but proceed with caution & some good Pro just in case you fly off backwards!

Dawn_K_B 21/Jul/16 Lead dnf

One of the best routes on peak grit, just couldn't pull over at the end!

Dawn_K_B 21/Jul/16 2nd rpt
Dave Turnbull, BMC 03/Jul/16 Lead rpt
phardy ?/Jul/16 Lead O/S
John Jefferies 22/Jun/16 Lead O/S
with Andy Stewart
Hidden 22/Jun/16 2nd
hotfeet 05/Jun/16 Lead
with Bob
chancer 05/Jun/16 Lead O/S
with Ed Wigmore
leopolian 03/Jun/16 2nd dog

Took one rest when I faffed getting a nut out for so long from the wrong place... Nice climb but strenuous! Slab at the top felt surprisingly precarious!

dom94 03/Jun/16 Lead O/S
Calum Wadsworth 07/May/16 Lead O/S

Wow, awesome route! definitely up there with the sloth and fbd but without the queues, not as steep, but steep for longer. Top effort on 2nd from Emma.

with Emma
Wizzy 13/Mar/16 2nd O/S
ruairidhwad ??/2016 Lead
with Dawn Brinkman
xiangoh 03/Oct/15 2nd β
stevemace85 03/Oct/15 2nd dog
NOG 03/Oct/15 Lead O/S
lloydrees91 26/Sep/15 Lead
with caiti
Ardo 13/Sep/15 2nd O/S
with Rob
Theo Moore - UKC and UKH 13/Sep/15 Lead rpt
dr_botnik 13/Sep/15 Lead O/S
with neil
charley 05/Sep/15 2nd O/S
with JackD
Jackwd 05/Sep/15 Lead rpt
Hidden 09/Aug/15 Lead
Hidden 08/Aug/15 Lead O/S
marconi 02/Aug/15 Lead O/S
admackie 02/Aug/15 Lead
sopaz 02/Aug/15 2nd
with Mackie
Ian Hylands 12/Jul/15 Lead O/S

Very enjoyable. Jugs all the way, pretty much. Not as pumpy as anticipated as there are a couple of opportunities for rests. Finished up the corner as couldn't remember if slab finish was on right or left. Oh yeah - and there was a pro photographer there shooting for a new guidebook. Photos only 'average', apparently, but you never know!

with Antonio Ferra
Cake 09/Jul/15 2nd O/S

Wow. Fairly unique on grit for sustained steepness on jugs

kermit_uk 04/Jul/15 Lead O/S
Hidden 04/Jul/15 Lead O/S
Antonio Ferra ?/Jul/15 2nd O/S
with Iain
caradoc 16/Jun/15 Lead O/S

Great climbing through the steep stuff then a bit of an anti climax on the slab at the top. View the steep stuff here...

with nick yapp
tatz45 26/May/15 Lead O/S
Stoney Boy 20/Apr/15 Lead O/S

Impressive ground covered for HVS

with Duncan Cundy
John Nuttall 09/Apr/15 Lead
with Coel
Ben Grounsell ??/2015 Lead O/S
phil64 ??/2015 -
Merlin 27/Sep/14 2nd O/S
with Jonathon Percival, Dave Tait
gripped01 27/Sep/14 Lead
with Merlin
jayray 20/Sep/14 Lead
Hidden 14/Sep/14 2nd dnf
batterj2 13/Sep/14 2nd dog

Strenuous, sat on the rope a couple of times whilst removing gear.

with Jamie
pete1993 05/Sep/14 Lead β

led on alex's gear, pretty pumped by the end but i did hang about a ridiculous amount unnecessarily, just needed to commit

Nick1812P 05/Sep/14 Lead β

on Alex's gear, with the E1 finish up the slab felt pretty steady for HVS if you're used to steep ground then a sketchy 5b topout after the slab.

with India
amccann 05/Sep/14 Lead O/S
with Matt H
indiarara 05/Sep/14 2nd dnf
with Nick
Matt Harmon 05/Sep/14 Lead O/S

led on alex's pre placed gear as pete and him both led the route before i did and none of us could be bothered to second or ab to clean the route

Luke Jones 24/Aug/14 2nd
Freshprintce 24/Aug/14 Lead O/S
Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing 04/Aug/14 -
Marti999 03/Aug/14 Lead O/S
with Debbie
ned_85 17/Jul/14 Lead
Gudge 17/Jul/14 2nd O/S

Lived up to all the hype - fantastic route!

Nigel Bond 11/Jul/14 Lead
with Colin Hutton
Paul ablitt 22/Jun/14 Lead O/S
with Sarah
OliverRoss 21/Jun/14 Lead β

Alkis did all the hard work placing gear and taking a fall, and I lead with most of the gear pre-placed.

with Alkis
Hidden 14/Jun/14 Lead O/S
Hidden 12/Jun/14 AltLd
Hidden 11/Jun/14 2nd
harold walmsley 18/May/14 Lead O/S

Amazing. One of the best

with Colin Struthers
lxg613 03/May/14 Lead
jimbonfire 19/Apr/14 Lead O/S
Hidden 19/Apr/14 Lead O/S
AshBash 19/Apr/14 2nd
with Mike
thetradlad 18/Apr/14 AltLd O/S
Harry Thorpe 18/Apr/14 AltLd O/S
mike mo ??/2014 Lead
mike mo ??/2014 Lead
Frank the Husky ??/2014 -
khalidq 23/Aug/13 Lead O/S
with Stephen Cousins, Nick Whelan
danoflynn 12/Jul/13 Lead O/S

So close to blowing the rockover near the top!

Andrew Barker 12/Jul/13 2nd

Wearing two rucsacks so was pretty ruined by the top!

chrisbussell 09/Jul/13 2nd
with Tim O'Neill
Pete Wimbush 06/Jul/13 Lead O/S
with Eric
LDJ 06/Jul/13 Lead
with Alfie, Lou
kim.mulji 06/Jul/13 2nd O/S
with Thea
Hidden ?/Jul/13 Lead
Hidden 30/Jun/13 Lead O/S
Hidden 30/Jun/13 2nd
deacondeacon 29/Jun/13 Lead O/S

Brilliant route. Best HVS on grit? We climbed the eliminate version.

claregardiner 25/Jun/13 Lead
Jackwd 10/Jun/13 2nd O/S

Straight forward, run it out and you'll get it!

with Nigel Berry
Hidden 09/Jun/13 Lead O/S
Hidden 09/Jun/13 Lead O/S
froglette 09/Jun/13 2nd O/S

First time I've seconded HVS without resting on rope. Great climb but knackering!

with John Proudfoot
ColinD 09/Jun/13 2nd
with Keith
Bry 01/Jun/13 2nd β
with Paul
Paul Phillips - UKC and UKH 01/Jun/13 Lead O/S
sopaz 01/Jun/13 2nd
Hidden 05/May/13 2nd β
NickJH ?/Apr/13 Lead dog
with Andy Cross
keith leonard ??/2013 Lead
Goose U 09/Sep/12 Lead β

Praps a bit bold and runnign out the gear but a solid first lead :-)

jessyb 08/Sep/12 2nd

Great climb but quite overhanging and I let my nerves get the better of me and sat on a piece of gear. Tough lead unless you like overhangs.

with Charlie
Mowglee 12/Aug/12 2nd O/S
with Tom Nichols
Jim Slater 11/Aug/12 Lead rpt
Hidden 14/Jul/12 2nd
hotfeet 14/Jul/12 Lead
with James, Mac
DubyaJamesDubya 17/Jun/12 Lead O/S
with Andrew Bevan
tom.e 28/May/12 Solo β
with Malcolm
jimorothy 27/May/12 2nd


with Scott Barnett
ushi 27/May/12 2nd
with Steven, Andy Marshall
Steven Andrews 27/May/12 2nd O/S

Fantastic - good long sustained and interesting.

with Andrew Marshall
max_chan 26/May/12 Lead rpt
with Phil PCC
Hidden 26/May/12 Lead O/S
Ahab 13/May/12 Lead O/S
markfairbank 24/Mar/12 Lead dnf

Not going well, got abit intimidated. Perhaps not the best selection for the first grit outing of the year. Will be back with more beans...

with Ian Moore
Tony Kartawick ??/2012 -
Tony Kartawick ??/2012 -
admackie ??/2012 -
vanderz 15/Oct/11 Lead O/S
Brannock 01/Oct/11 Lead O/S

Barney Rubble's harder brother, bit steeper and more sustained, not as many rests as appears from the ground and a nasty move at the end...

cobweb 03/Sep/11 Lead O/S

brill climbing , big holds , hvs in e2 teritory

with martyn hopson
Hoyes 21/Aug/11 Lead O/S

A bit pumpy, but felt quite steady at the grade.

Hidden 21/Aug/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 31/Jul/11 Lead O/S
Jack Whiteley 31/Jul/11 2nd O/S
with Paul
Hidden 31/Jul/11 2nd O/S
Hidden 30/Jul/11 Lead O/S
keith Lonsdale 28/Jul/11 2nd
andybirtwistle 28/Jul/11 Lead

Stunning route in a wild setting Well worth the walk.

quiffhanger 24/Jul/11 Lead O/S
Barry D 05/Jul/11 2nd
with Richard W
Hidden 02/Jul/11 2nd
Hidden 02/Jul/11 Lead O/S
nick ferro 26/Jun/11 Lead O/S

Really enjoyed it, and managed to just find enough rest above the big roof for the clean onsight. :) Delicate slab felt a bit out of place but found the correct combination to unlock it.

with Dioni
Paul D Jones 04/Jun/11 Lead
with Jerome Gill
jiggerypokery 04/Jun/11 2nd dnf
Budge 06/May/11 Lead O/S
with Brian Mattock, Carl Tiivas
simeclimb68 01/May/11 Solo O/S
dprctr 24/Apr/11 Lead O/S
joemallia 23/Apr/11 2nd rpt
Hidden 17/Apr/11 2nd
Hidden 16/Apr/11 Lead RP
Becky E 10/Apr/11 2nd
Graeme Hammond 10/Apr/11 Lead rpt

Did the desperate top out on the slab again despite saying I wouldn't, defiantly get the E1 tick for that.

with Becky E
Hidden 09/Apr/11 Lead
Hidden 09/Apr/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 09/Apr/11 2nd
Batt ??/2011 2nd O/S

Jug-fest with a little bit of thought required! Enough gear and shake out spots.

PAJames ??/2011 -
mwatson ??/2011 -
disturbed_one51 05/Sep/10 Lead

Brilliant jugfest. There are good holds and good gear everywhere making it a pleasant romp up a daunting overhang.

Jonathan Hall 05/Sep/10 Lead
Shane-Smith 03/Sep/10 2nd
Hannes B 03/Sep/10 Lead O/S
with Bella, Shane
Hidden 30/Aug/10 2nd O/S
Hidden 16/Aug/10 2nd O/S
burto 16/Aug/10 Lead β
with ben dorey, malc
MD 03/Jul/10 Lead O/S

Felt harder than Lancaster Flyby but it was the last climb of the day.

with Heg
Hidden 25/Jun/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 13/Jun/10 Lead O/S
dimwit18 12/Jun/10 2nd O/S
Richard G Wilkinson 12/Jun/10 Lead O/S
with Dimitris Perdikou
keefe 05/Jun/10 -
with Tansy
Hidden 05/Jun/10 Lead O/S
Bry 05/Jun/10 Lead O/S
with Andy and Liam
Fat Tim 31/May/10 Lead O/S
lithos 23/May/10 Lead O/S

ian led the top 'pitch' - the crack. greta route on huge holds well protected as well, steep though

with ian everett
OffshoreAndy 22/May/10 Lead O/S
with Jade
jshields 15/May/10 Lead
liamoloughlin 05/May/10 Lead O/S

HVS climbing in an E1 position. Definitely no harder than 5a. The final slab moves are well worth while.

ieverett ?/May/10 2nd
moreno ?/May/10 2nd
with Rob Stone
Dogmusher 24/Apr/10 2nd
with Johan Piper
mattparratt 24/Apr/10 2nd

Led the final pitch up the overhanging corner

ChrisBrooke 24/Apr/10 Lead O/S
with John Inkpen
highrepute 18/Apr/10 Lead O/S
chrisallan 10/Apr/10 2nd O/S
bigbobbyking 10/Apr/10 Lead O/S

A good fight. Good gear though tiring to place. Avoided the 'delicate slab' at the top as there was too much rope drag.

with Chris Allan
nickmattia ?/Mar/10 Lead O/S

Well worth the walk in. Another gritstone great! Finished the top slab so claiming the E1, get 'em where you can!

with drew withey
Hidden ??/2010 Lead rpt
Hidden 26/Sep/09 Lead O/S
tradguy 26/Sep/09 Lead O/S
with Mark Hazell
davidwright 26/Sep/09 Lead O/S
with Sam
davidwright 26/Sep/09 2nd O/S

Sam couldn't get off the ground so seconded my own lead to get the gear back.

with Sam
boulderholder 19/Sep/09 Lead O/S

A nice route and with very positive holds all the way up. Quite committing in areas as found it time consuming to place gear! Had to second the route too, as belayer slipped into some kind of coma half way through! Oh Helen..

with Helen R
Ketu 10/Sep/09 Lead O/S
with Nigel
Milne 22/Aug/09 Lead O/S

brilliant steep route, tricky start, and some quite committing big pulls higher up, as good gear is tiring to place at times. i thought this was better than GNR at millstone, allbeit a touch easier.

with Ned
Hidden 22/Aug/09 2nd O/S
Different Steve 08/Aug/09 Lead O/S
with Chris
Clee 08/Aug/09 2nd
with Chris
Owen W-G 08/Aug/09 Lead O/S

A bit awkward to protect on the really steep bits. I started sprinted through them but by the time I stopped I was quite run out amid not too many decent gear options, hence regreted bypassing gear below. Fortunately the enormous sideways jug and bomber cam wasn't too far away.

with Si & Andy
nige pacer 02/Aug/09 -
RalphC 27/Jul/09 Lead
with Caroline
9fingerjon 14/Jun/09 Lead dog

Screwed up taking too long to place gear, got pumped and ended up resting on it. Doh! must return...

with Matt G
Hidden 14/Jun/09 2nd
Hidden 24/May/09 Lead O/S
colin milton 23/May/09 Lead dog
with ibbo
mjeffery 19/Apr/09 2nd
SGD 28/Sep/08 Lead

I thought this was hard....actually started on the eliminate by mistake. the start is 5b and the finish is very interesting too. 5b

with Jonathan
Hidden 30/Aug/08 Lead O/S
Misha 30/Aug/08 Lead O/S

Jugtastic HVS 5a, not particularly pumpy and with good gear. Final steep slab looked like it would go at 5a on the right hand side so went for the higher left hand side for more of a challenge. Hardest and scariest topout I've ever done ensued, heelhooking whilst pulling on poor slopers and with the prospect of a fall onto some nice rocks on the ledge below the slab, greasy day as well, just about made it... E4 6a? PS: midges got pretty evil.

Stig 11/Aug/08 Lead O/S


with Charlie Reade-Jahn
Hidden 28/Jul/08 2nd O/S
Hidden 20/Jul/08 2nd
Graeme Hammond 20/Jul/08 Lead O/S
hardoreVdiffBen 20/Jul/08 2nd
tobydunford 13/Jul/08 2nd β
with Harry Martin
Jim Slater 13/Jul/08 Lead dnf

Fell after arms got totally pumped, too much faffing with gear placements. Good holds but steep and sustained. Completed on second.

cmsg 13/Jul/08 Lead dnf

Gibbering mass of nerves. Didn't think I'd have the strenght to do it, so didn't. Big shame, really.

with Tom Cattermole
Hidden 08/Jun/08 2nd
Adam1973 31/May/08 2nd O/S
with Big Ian
WB 11/May/08 Lead O/S

and viv

with Guy
The old James turnbull ??/2008 Lead
The old James turnbull ??/2008 Lead
Hidden ??/2008 Lead
The old James turnbull ??/2008 Lead
Jim Walton ??/2008 -
Jesse Dufton 04/Nov/07 Lead
with bob3141
bob3141 04/Nov/07 2nd
Ram MkiV 05/Oct/07 Solo O/S
Hidden 15/Sep/07 2nd
Hidden 09/Sep/07 Lead O/S
howlingbaboon 08/Sep/07 Lead dnf
with Chris Fitzhugh & Jim
richgibson 06/Sep/07 Lead O/S
with John, Diz
chrisclimber_1986 27/Aug/07 2nd O/S
with jon
philwont 27/Aug/07 2nd dnf
with Claire and Neil
Joe Dove 26/Aug/07 2nd
with kev
max_chan 11/Aug/07 AltLd O/S

Did as two pitches. I lead the second - up the slab

with Steve
The Reaper 05/Aug/07 2nd O/S
jonka ?/Aug/07 Lead
with chris/gerald
SR1970 ?/Jul/07 Lead O/S
Mark_RMC 09/Jun/07 2nd

A very physical climb. Technically not a challenge (hence tend to agree with new guide's HVS rating). But very physical as overhanging most of the way. Ran out of steam halfway up and came off which was annoying - must get fitter.

with Rob Smart
HimTiggins 21/Apr/07 Lead O/S
with John, Paul
masa-alpin 14/Apr/07 Lead O/S

Fantastic! One of the best at the grade!

with Adam W
jimbobimbo 07/Apr/07 Lead O/S

Central climb to finish, so only gets HVS 5A.. He-man climbing at its best!!

with Gro
JGW ?/Apr/07 Lead
gazfellows ?/Mar/07 2nd
Hidden ??/2007 Lead O/S
Hidden 16/Jul/06 Lead O/S
dicky79 15/Jul/06 2nd O/S
with Eddie
cem 02/Jul/06 2nd rpt
Hidden 01/Jul/06 Lead O/S
Hidden 10/Jun/06 2nd rpt
Hidden 03/Jun/06 Lead
Boy ??/2006 -
Hidden ??/2006 Lead
Hidden ??/2005 -
Hidden 23/May/04 Lead
Tim W 02/May/04 Lead O/S
Hidden 02/May/04 Lead O/S
sdht ??/2004 -
Neal Jobling ??/2004 Lead O/S
chris sm 14/Jun/03 Lead O/S
with Pippa Froggatt
Hidden ?/Apr/03 Lead dnf
Mark Stevenson 31/Mar/03 Lead O/S
with Paul Palfreyman
cem 31/Aug/02 Lead O/S
with Rob Smithies, Graham Dolman
phardman 17/Aug/02 Lead O/S
Hidden 03/Aug/02 2nd O/S
Chris the Tall ?/Jun/02 Lead dnf

Stopped by slopers around the final roof

with Paul
tuftynick ??/2001 -
Hidden ??/2001 Lead
FrankW 16/Jul/00 2nd O/S
with James R
Hidden 04/Sep/99 Lead O/S
martroberts 24/May/98 Lead O/S
Ropeboy 25/Nov/95 Lead

My first HVS, scary and excellent!

roncaves 24/Jun/93 Lead
Roget 28/Jun/92 Solo O/S
Hidden 28/Jul/91 Lead O/S
Hidden 16/Sep/90 2nd
Hidden 05/Oct/86 Lead
Brian Wilderspin 13/Jul/85 Lead rpt

Peak 14

with Stan Vick
Hidden ?/Jun/81 Lead O/S
Brian Wilderspin 05/Apr/80 Lead
Chris Craggs ??/1980 Lead
Tony Holdsworth 01/Jan/70 -
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High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
Votes cast 59
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
Votes cast 56
Votes cast 88
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Not Set