Rockfax Description
A classic. Start up the outer arete of the buttress and mantel awkwardly onto a ledge. Step left and make a second mantel over a bulge onto a sloping shelf, then step right and mantel (again!) past an undercut crack. Finish easily out to the right. © Rockfax

FA. Albert Shutt 1949

Ticklists: ROCKFAX Eastern Grit (2006): Top 500, Burbage, Millstone and Beyond Routes Graded List, Steve Ashton's 100 Classic Gritstone Climbs, Northern Grit 100 VD - VS, Peak Gritstone S-HVS **+, Do you climb Very Severe?, Burbage, Millstone and Beyond in 3 stars, Definitive *** Peak Grit, Eastern Grit 2 star plus (HVS/VS/HS).

royle883 29/Oct/17 Lead O/S
Hidden 24/Sep/17 Lead O/S
Hidden 24/Sep/17 2nd
HenryMeier 20/Sep/17 2nd O/S
mrphilipoldham 20/Sep/17 Lead O/S

Had a look at the Shylock finish but little legs here couldn't even reach!

tebs 28/Aug/17 Lead O/S
Dale Berry 27/Aug/17 2nd β
with Wayne S
Wayne S 27/Aug/17 Lead O/S

Really good and not as hard as the guide would have you think

gritstone7 13/Aug/17 2nd rpt
with HB
jim182 09/Jul/17 Lead O/S
with John H
dwc 09/Jul/17 2nd dog
gar0cky 08/Jul/17 Lead O/S

Was beginning to wonder if the walk in was worth it, but this was good.. Rope stuck in crack after the last mantle.

with Mike
Nigel Coe 21/Jun/17 Lead
with Amnon
BarnDawg 17/Jun/17 Lead O/S
with AlexCib
Afell 17/Jun/17 2nd
with Matt
garywong 17/Jun/17 Lead O/S
with Dom, Jozef
AlexCib 17/Jun/17 2nd O/S
mwlyth 17/Jun/17 Lead O/S
with Andy
jvdv 17/Jun/17 2nd
with Dom, Gary
planetmarshall 28/May/17 Lead O/S

A bit like Gargoyle Flake, but better.

with Steve Ashton, Clive Betteridge
GregClixby 28/May/17 2nd β
foobar123 28/May/17 Lead O/S

Great route, but very stiff for VS! Makes me think I was missing a lot of holds...

Hidden 28/May/17 2nd O/S
CRead 24/May/17 Solo
with Ali
Flavio 01/May/17 Solo O/S
PatrickBoothroyd 09/Apr/17 Lead O/S
cem 09/Apr/17 2nd rpt
with Kirill Spiridonov, Ricardo Da Silva
Kirill 09/Apr/17 2nd
with Ricardo Da Silva, Charles Moreton
Hidden 08/Apr/17 2nd β
Hidden 09/Oct/16 2nd β
Hidden 09/Oct/16 Lead O/S
Deezel65 03/Oct/16 2nd O/S

Great route, no give away at VS, and the Shylock finish just has to be done

cragtyke 03/Oct/16 Lead
with Chris, Ross
Hidden 03/Oct/16 2nd O/S
Jody 17/Sep/16 2nd
with TobyA
TobyA 17/Sep/16 Lead O/S

Fun but surprisingly easy after the scary description in the book.

with Jody
john max 11/Sep/16 2nd
PaulTanton 11/Sep/16 2nd O/S
with Bruce Woodley
Hidden 01/Sep/16 Solo O/S
JasonK 17/Aug/16 2nd

Managed to talk Kieran into the Shylock finish. Mug.

with Alex H., Kieran W.
Andy Moles 16/Aug/16 Solo
Becks87 06/Aug/16 2nd O/S
trouserburp 30/Jul/16 Lead O/S
Pixie-Andy 23/Jul/16 Lead O/S

A little less bold with small cams and creative placements! I bottled the outrageous Shlyock finish, as not happy i could protect back swing if i slipped. But is Shylock really 5a? looked like 5b? ...anyway certainly worth 3 stars if only for the outrageous photo finish!

Jim Slater 07/Jul/16 Lead rpt

Was going to do the Shylock finish but then it started to rain.

with Sian Angharad
Capricorn One 21/Jun/16 2nd rpt
with JasonK
JasonK 21/Jun/16 Lead

With the shylock finish. Fantastic climb.

with Greg
leopolian 03/Jun/16 2nd rpt

Got half way up on the lead but went the wrong way up the second mantel and got stressed... Got lowered off and seconded it... Found it fairly easy with a rope above me!

dom94 03/Jun/16 Lead O/S
mol 07/May/16 2nd
Calum Wadsworth 07/May/16 Lead O/S

Many Mantles

with Emma
Wizzy 13/Mar/16 Lead O/S
cf2g08 01/Nov/15 Lead O/S
with Iain
xiangoh 03/Oct/15 2nd β
NOG 03/Oct/15 Lead O/S
Ardo 13/Sep/15 Lead O/S
with Rob
dr_botnik 13/Sep/15 2nd O/S
with neil
alp79 06/Sep/15 2nd O/S

Slopey green weirdness!

with Tessa
charley 05/Sep/15 2nd O/S
with JackD
Jackwd 05/Sep/15 Lead rpt
Duncan Beard 15/Aug/15 2nd

Great route

with Pip McCarthy
Hidden 09/Aug/15 Solo
marconi 02/Aug/15 Lead O/S
Ian Hylands 12/Jul/15 Lead O/S

Nice route. Rather green and conditions were a bit marginal, but plenty of cam placements and less slippery than it looked. Didn't have the courage for the Shylock finish. It was my warm up!

with Antonio Ferra
kermit_uk 04/Jul/15 2nd rpt
Hidden 04/Jul/15 Lead O/S
Antonio Ferra ?/Jul/15 2nd O/S
with Iain
Capricorn One 30/Jun/15 Lead
with Nina
Hidden 30/Jun/15 2nd O/S
caradoc 16/Jun/15 Lead O/S

Thought provoking climbing, I think I would give it three stars.

with nick yapp
Hidden 26/May/15 Lead O/S
john max 24/May/15 2nd
john_ni 23/May/15 2nd
John Nuttall 09/Apr/15 Lead
with Coel
fuzzysheep01 22/Mar/15 Lead O/S
MattKettle 22/Mar/15 2nd O/S
Hidden 01/Nov/14 Lead O/S
Merlin 27/Sep/14 2nd O/S
with Jonathon Percival, Dave Tait
gripped01 27/Sep/14 Lead
with Merlin
pete1993 05/Sep/14 2nd O/S
Derek Furze 05/Sep/14 Lead
with Paul Wheeler
amccann 05/Sep/14 Solo O/S
Nick1812P 05/Sep/14 Lead O/S
with India
Matt Harmon 05/Sep/14 Lead O/S
indiarara 05/Sep/14 2nd O/S
with Nick
Luke Jones 24/Aug/14 Lead O/S
Ian Stirrups 24/Aug/14 Lead O/S

Basically a set of boulder problems, all protectable and entertaining.

with Sue
Marti999 03/Aug/14 Lead O/S
with Debbie
ned_85 17/Jul/14 Lead
Gudge 17/Jul/14 2nd O/S
Nigel Bond 11/Jul/14 Lead
with Colin Hutton
Hidden 21/Jun/14 Lead O/S
Hidden 14/Jun/14 Lead O/S
Hidden 12/Jun/14 2nd
GermanAlex 08/Jun/14 Lead O/S

Odd. Can't really describe it, but almost every move feels a bit weird, although not in a bad way. With Shylock finish. Not sure what all the 3* rave is about, Barney Rubble is better.

with Jack
dan_o_b ?/Jun/14 Lead O/S
jimbonfire 19/Apr/14 Lead O/S
kermit_uk 19/Apr/14 Lead O/S
Hidden 19/Apr/14 Lead O/S
AshBash 19/Apr/14 2nd
with Mike
thetradlad 18/Apr/14 Lead O/S
Hidden 16/Mar/14 2nd rpt
AidanG ??/2014 -
khalidq 23/Aug/13 2nd O/S
with Nick Whelan
Neil Henson 23/Aug/13 2nd
with Krish
rohai545 23/Aug/13 Lead
with Neil Henson
john lynch 10/Aug/13 Lead
with rosie
RosieLynch 10/Aug/13 2nd O/S
Andrew Barker 12/Jul/13 2nd
danoflynn 12/Jul/13 Lead O/S
Pete Wimbush 06/Jul/13 2nd
with Eric
LDJ 06/Jul/13 Lead
with Oscar, Alfie, Lou
Hidden 04/Jul/13 2nd
Hidden 30/Jun/13 2nd O/S
Hidden 30/Jun/13 Lead O/S
the power 29/Jun/13 2nd
with deacon
deacondeacon 29/Jun/13 Lead O/S

With the Shylock Finish.

Jackwd 10/Jun/13 2nd O/S
with Nigel Berry
Hidden 09/Jun/13 2nd O/S
SuperLee1985 09/Jun/13 2nd β
mikealexpayne 09/Jun/13 Lead
froglette 09/Jun/13 2nd
with John Proudfoot
StevieLee 08/Jun/13 -
Bry 01/Jun/13 2nd
Paul Phillips - UKC and UKH 01/Jun/13 Solo O/S
Hidden 01/Jun/13 Lead
mattscott 26/May/13 Lead O/S
jogh 05/May/13 2nd
with Vincent
vinni 05/May/13 Lead O/S
with James
NickJH ?/Apr/13 2nd O/S
with Andy Cross
keith leonard ??/2013 2nd
Wyrdwired ??/2013 Lead O/S
Hardcore Pat 08/Sep/12 Lead β
with Steve Fletch
jessyb 08/Sep/12 2nd

3 big rock overs. Very big, if you're 5 ft 4. 3 stars?

with Charlie
Jim Slater 11/Aug/12 2nd O/S
john_ni 08/Aug/12 2nd
Graeme Hammond 08/Aug/12 Lead rpt

Even better than I remembered, and I thought it was excellent last time! Did with the Shylock finish this time :)

Hidden 22/Jul/12 Lead O/S
Steven Andrews 27/May/12 2nd O/S
with Andrew Marshall
ushi 27/May/12 Lead
with Steven, Andy Marshall
Hidden 27/May/12 2nd
max_chan 26/May/12 2nd rpt
with Phil PCC
scott.hill 26/May/12 Lead O/S
with Brendan Mackrill, Alisa
tinyali 26/May/12 2nd dog
with Brendan Mackrill, Scott Hill
Hidden 26/May/12 Lead O/S
tjsx101 26/May/12 Lead O/S

very good route, easier than expected. good gear before the hard moves too.

with Chris Playfoot
Ahab 13/May/12 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/May/12 Lead O/S
cem 24/Mar/12 Lead rpt
Hidden 01/Oct/11 2nd O/S
Brannock 01/Oct/11 2nd O/S
Tanya Savage 29/Aug/11 2nd

Was going to lead but bottled. First mantelshelf small and teetering, 2nd sprawly but OK, thought I'd never get up 3rd - high step and rockover.

Neil Pacey 29/Aug/11 Lead O/S

Atmospheric climbing, very cold with strong winds made this feel a lot harder than VS, on the whole well protected, but the three mantelshelf moves all feel hard for 4c. Excellent route and a lovely walk in.

alexyoung 21/Aug/11 2nd O/S
with Ali
Hidden 21/Aug/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 31/Jul/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 31/Jul/11 2nd O/S
Jack Whiteley 31/Jul/11 2nd O/S
with Paul
Hidden 30/Jul/11 Lead O/S
keith Lonsdale 28/Jul/11 2nd
andybirtwistle 28/Jul/11 Lead
ayuplass 24/Jul/11 2nd
with Helen, Thea
JEP 05/Jul/11 2nd O/S
Barry D 05/Jul/11 Lead
with Richard W
nick ferro 26/Jun/11 -

Reckon it's only 1.5 stars, obviously I am not a mantelshelfy sort of person. ;)

with Dioni
dprctr 24/Apr/11 2nd β
Paul D Jones 24/Apr/11 Lead O/S
joemallia 23/Apr/11 2nd β
smeaton 18/Apr/11 Lead O/S
with dusty
Hidden 17/Apr/11 2nd
Takacs 16/Apr/11 2nd

Should be top 50, great route! even if you don't lie mantles!

with Laurence Everitt
Hidden 16/Apr/11 Lead O/S
andrew549 10/Apr/11 2nd
skittles 10/Apr/11 Lead O/S
with Heather Williams
Becky E 10/Apr/11 2nd O/S


petellis 10/Apr/11 Lead O/S

Fantastic route. Should be a Rockfax Top 50.

with Bex
claregardiner 09/Apr/11 Lead
richyg 09/Apr/11 Lead
Hidden ??/2011 Lead
PAJames ??/2011 -
pabbage 13/Oct/10 -
Guy Wilson 13/Oct/10 -
with Paulo
disturbed_one51 05/Sep/10 2nd
Jonathan Hall 05/Sep/10 Lead
danleyden 31/Jul/10 TR
mark20 24/Jul/10 2nd O/S
lucasp 24/Jul/10 Lead O/S
with masa
tiga271 24/Jul/10 Lead
with mark20
masa-alpin 24/Jul/10 2nd rpt
with P Luke
hotfeet 10/Jul/10 Lead O/S
with Steve
Hidden 10/Jul/10 2nd
Hidden 10/Jul/10 Lead O/S
Dizz 10/Jul/10 2nd
with jt
ed_1973 03/Jul/10 Lead
fatbuoybazza 03/Jul/10 2nd O/S
with deborah
MD 03/Jul/10 2nd
with Heg
tradguy 03/Jul/10 2nd O/S
with Ed Lamb
Hidden 03/Jul/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 27/Jun/10 2nd
Hidden 25/Jun/10 Lead rpt
dimwit18 12/Jun/10 2nd O/S
Richard G Wilkinson 12/Jun/10 Lead O/S
with Dimitris Perdikou
keefe 05/Jun/10 -
with Tansy
Bry 05/Jun/10 2nd O/S
with Liam
OffshoreAndy 22/May/10 2nd
with Jade
Hidden 22/May/10 Solo O/S
Mr. K 22/May/10 2nd O/S
with Ben Redgate
jshields 15/May/10 Lead
Anthony Dixon 24/Apr/10 Lead
cem 24/Apr/10 2nd rpt
with Jenny Andexer, Paul Bolton
mattparratt 24/Apr/10 2nd

Horrible. I now officially hate roofs.

Hidden 24/Apr/10 Lead O/S
ChrisBrooke 24/Apr/10 Lead O/S
with John Inkpen
disturbed_one51 10/Apr/10 Lead
chrisallan 10/Apr/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 10/Apr/10 2nd
bigbobbyking 10/Apr/10 2nd
with Chris Allan
Hidden 10/Oct/09 Lead β
Hidden 26/Sep/09 Lead O/S
Hidden 26/Sep/09 2nd
tradguy 26/Sep/09 2nd O/S
with Mark Hazell
davidwright 26/Sep/09 Lead O/S
with Sam
Hidden 26/Sep/09 2nd O/S
Hidden 16/Sep/09 2nd O/S
markytaylor 16/Sep/09 Lead O/S
Hidden 12/Sep/09 Lead O/S
tanssop 12/Sep/09 2nd
with Andy & Wayne
Hidden 12/Sep/09 AltLd
Ketu 10/Sep/09 2nd O/S
with Nigel
tri-nitro-tuolumne 10/Sep/09 Lead O/S
with Rob Truckle
SR1970 ?/Sep/09 Lead O/S
Hidden 30/Aug/09 2nd
Byronius Maximus 30/Aug/09 2nd O/S

Good route, not reall sure how it gets three stars though.

Twisty 30/Aug/09 Lead O/S

Mantletastic! Bit of a pushover and not 3*s

with Rayan Sammut, Byron Buck
JiveWeasel 22/Aug/09 2nd
Mrs Weasel 22/Aug/09 Lead

Brilliant climb if you love mantleshelves, which I do! Agree with the person that said the shylock variation looks fantastic.

AsleepOnBelay 08/Aug/09 Lead O/S

Really enjoyed this, last route of the day and the crag was quiet apart from the bleating of sheep and the gurgling of the grouse. Found the first bit tricky to protect. Will have to do the Shylock finish next time, looks outrageous!

with Sarah Davis
Hidden 28/Jun/09 Lead
teflonpete 27/Jun/09 Lead O/S
with Barry
3kidsandanorton 27/Jun/09 2nd
9fingerjon 14/Jun/09 Lead O/S
with Matt G
Hidden 14/Jun/09 2nd
Neil Henson 13/Jun/09 2nd

Great route.

with Graham Robinson
mikej 02/Jun/09 2nd
with Rick Naylor
colin milton 23/May/09 Lead O/S
with ibbo
Brown 03/May/09 2nd O/S
with Stu
adam carless 19/Apr/09 Lead O/S

great climb, good moves on (mainly) good holds.

with Jon_nz
LardClimber 18/Apr/09 Lead O/S
with Dave Williams & Nic Brown
Hidden 20/Mar/09 Lead
matsavage 17/Oct/08 Lead O/S
Stig 11/Aug/08 Lead O/S
with Charlie Reade-Jahn
Reaver2k 05/Aug/08 Lead O/S

Really enjoyed this one, deffonately 3 stars! It was absolutely blowing a gale but we had risked the rain, and walked all the way in so were determined to get something good done from our first visit to the crag. Got to the bottom of the route and thought I've been wimping out of things I'm not sure of too many times recently so just said to Matt lets do it which is pretty much a contract lol. Started up the corner a little weary as the wind started to pick up, plopped a couple of pieces of gear in and went for the high right hand. Put some more gear in the little slot (0.5 cam) and moved up and over left with the tricky mantle, only to find myself stretched over a sloping mantle lol. Absolutely brilliant, a little worrying but got a really high foot up and just rocked over and leaned in. Up right again to another really high leg up and step over. Wind was blowing REALLY hard now, and I was at the shylock finish... To be continued on that log..

Hidden 28/Jul/08 Lead O/S
Hidden 26/Jul/08 Lead O/S
nienke 26/Jul/08 2nd
with Adam Young
coffeepot 26/Jul/08 2nd
with jelaby
cmsg 13/Jul/08 2nd rpt

Lead it before. Lovely.

with Tom Cattermole
tobydunford 13/Jul/08 2nd β
with Harry Martin
shed_hed 24/Jun/08 2nd O/S
Graeme Hammond 24/Jun/08 Lead O/S
Adam1973 31/May/08 Lead O/S
with Big Ian
goi.ashmore 24/May/08 Lead O/S

A stunner!

with Rich France
Hidden 11/May/08 Solo
max_chan 10/May/08 Lead O/S

Fantastic. Again

with Lou
Hidden 03/May/08 2nd O/S
Matthallinan 02/Apr/08 Lead
with Jon Winter
The old James turnbull ??/2008 Lead
Jim Walton ??/2008 -
The old James turnbull ??/2008 Lead
Hidden ??/2008 -
The old James turnbull ??/2008 Lead
Jesse Dufton 04/Nov/07 2nd
with bob3141
bob3141 04/Nov/07 Lead O/S
Hidden 23/Oct/07 Lead rpt
RichardMc 15/Sep/07 2nd
with Graham Sheey
martin48 09/Sep/07 Lead
with dave
Hidden 08/Sep/07 Lead O/S
howlingbaboon 08/Sep/07 Lead O/S
with Chris Fitzhugh & Jim
richgibson 06/Sep/07 2nd
with John, Diz
Hidden 12/Aug/07 Solo
Hidden 11/Aug/07 2nd O/S
max_chan 11/Aug/07 Lead O/S
with Steve
The Reaper 05/Aug/07 Lead O/S
Hidden 05/Aug/07 Lead
ASchwirtz 23/Jun/07 Lead O/S
Mark_RMC 09/Jun/07 Lead

A superb route that well deserves all 3 of it's stars. Nice delicate climbing all the way up with good gear placements. A relief to discover I could still lead!

with Rob Smart
HimTiggins 21/Apr/07 Lead O/S
with John, Paul
KeithW 15/Apr/07 2nd O/S

Tested my mantling technique!

with Bruce
masa-alpin 14/Apr/07 Lead O/S

Good route, though inferior to Gargoyle Flake in Bamford?

with Adam W
Sidekick 01/Apr/07 Lead
KatieEmily 16/Sep/06 2nd dnf
with Lewis
lewisl 16/Sep/06 Lead O/S

really enjoyed the mantelshelfing

with Katie
Fraser Hughes 10/Sep/06 Lead O/S
Hidden 01/Jul/06 Lead O/S
catt 01/Jul/06 2nd O/S
K Wall 10/Jun/06 2nd
with Martin
scarybiker 01/Jul/05 Lead dnf
sims 23/May/04 2nd O/S
with Nick
sdht ??/2004 -
Hidden ??/2004 Lead O/S
Phil West 09/Aug/03 Lead O/S
with Chris Tan
lithos 21/Jul/03 Lead O/S
Simon Caldwell 20/Jul/03 2nd O/S
with Ian A
Hidden ?/Jul/03 Lead O/S
chris sm 14/Jun/03 Lead O/S
with Pippa Froggatt
Hidden ?/Apr/03 Lead
Mark Stevenson 31/Mar/03 2nd O/S
with Paul Palfreyman
cem 31/Aug/02 2nd
with Rob Smithies, Graham Dolman
FrankW 16/Jul/00 2nd O/S
with James R
iskra2000 25/Jun/99 Lead
with Duncan Hornby
Ropeboy 14/Feb/98 Lead


Hidden 10/Oct/95 2nd O/S
Chris Ellis 07/Aug/93 Lead
with Louise Pellett
Roget 28/Jun/92 Solo O/S
Hidden ?/Aug/90 Lead
Hidden 22/Apr/90 Solo
Rob Davies ?/May/88 Lead
with Mick Moss
Tom V ??/1980 -
Hidden 24/Jun/76 Lead
mikej 27/Oct/73 Solo
34 users have this on their wishlist
High HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
High HS
Mid HS
Low HS
Votes cast 71
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
High 4b
Mid 4b
Low 4b
Votes cast 67
Votes cast 68
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Not Set