Rockfax Description
A tough little expedition - the easiest way to the summit, but not that easy. Follow Croton Oil then move right to a crack, which leads to escapable ledges behind the tower. From the right end of these, hand traverse the break strenuously out right (crux) to the rickety flake to finish. Potential for rope-work nightmares! © Rockfax

FA. Don Wooller 1950

Ticklists: Burbage, Millstone and Beyond Routes Graded List, Steve Ashton's 100 Classic Gritstone Climbs, Peak Gritstone S-HVS **+, Peak Rock/6/ The Emergence of Joe Brown and Don Whillans, Eastern Grit 2 star plus (HVS/VS/HS), On Peak Rock, Rockfax Eastern Grit: Peaks and Pinnacles.

RayG 31/Oct/18 Lead O/S

Pumpy indeed, more so than Croton.

Wanderlust 31/Oct/18 2nd O/S

Rope faff and a pumpy traverse!

with RayG
robint12 24/Oct/18 2nd
with Clive
Toby_Cronshaw 08/Oct/18 2nd O/S

Hardest moves at the start. Push through to good hands and good placements

Deezel65 18/Aug/18 AltLd rpt

In 2 pitches today, I took the first

with jim182
jim182 18/Aug/18 AltLd O/S

Led P2

tsmilton 24/Jun/18 Lead O/S
Hidden 24/May/18 2nd
James Oakes 20/Apr/18 Lead O/S
Aaron Symonds 25/Feb/18 AltLd

In the multi pitch I took the first lead on the nice first half to the platform. Robbie continued on the second pitch, which was a terrifying traverse and flaky climb to the top, where we posed for photos.

with Robbie Lee
robbielee1 25/Feb/18 AltLd

Scary AF

Struck Lucky 18/Nov/17 AltLd

Took a pendulum swing on second pitch. Nice climb. Need good rope management.

with Fez
theemurr ?/Nov/17 2nd β
hainesck100 14/Oct/17 2nd O/S
with Marius Twite
WillDoole 03/Oct/17 Lead O/S

Nice last evening out of the year. Lead in two pitches had a bit of a epic on the traverse, but easier to go on than go back!

with Drue
Alex Hyde 07/Jun/17 Lead O/S

Really good fun, exciting and pumpy

with Pete
benkay119 30/May/17 Lead dog

Epic rain

loonylovegood93 06/May/17 Lead O/S
alanblyth 06/May/17 Lead O/S

Adventure of the spiral! Found belayer had to spiral also to keep the ropes running, wondering if climbing on a single would be better, but unsure. I seem to have misplaced a size 3 and size 4 wallnut this day - if anyone has found and wishes to return, I'd be most grateful!

with Megan
RM199 06/May/17 2nd O/S
JOHNB-W 21/Apr/17 Lead O/S
with andywinfrow, adam mitchell, besiix, SvenjaT
besiix 21/Apr/17 2nd
with JOHNB-W
nathanjmasters 09/Apr/17 Lead
with rosso
rosso 09/Apr/17 2nd O/S
amccann 30/Oct/16 Solo O/S
Rafal Malczyk 05/Oct/16 AltLd O/S
with Bernie Sosin
GregClixby 17/Jul/16 Lead O/S
Flavio 23/Apr/16 Solo O/S

No ropework nightmare if the rope is neatly coiled in a backpack for use on the abseil after you solo the route :) fun!

Arty 10/Feb/16 2nd
david harvey 08/Aug/15 Lead O/S
Hidden 16/Jun/15 Lead
hotfeet 16/May/15 AltLd
Sophie Nunn 02/May/15 Lead O/S
with Floris
Neal Jobling 25/Apr/15 AltLd O/S
with Tracy
Hidden 11/Apr/15 TR O/S
bummingham 11/Apr/15 Lead O/S

climbed in one. massive rope drag. rope pulled through by third person in middle. rope faff at top for Vic to top rope.

with Vic Cox, Karlos
Karlos 11/Apr/15 2nd O/S

Final traverse quite hard. Lots of rope drag if done in one.

with Adam B
rd20 21/Mar/15 2nd dnf

Split pitch, tried hand traverse but didn't like it so came back.

garywong 21/Mar/15 Lead dnf

Bold start and tricky moves before a few attempts at the hand traverse. Rope drag is terrible too; can't see how this can be done in a single pitch.

with rd20
al123 17/Feb/15 Solo
with Dunc, Boy, Crew
cem 06/Dec/14 2nd rpt

Second pitch only.

with Kirill
Kirill 06/Dec/14 Lead β

Successful lead, but felt a bit nervous on the move that landed me in A&E 7 years ago. This particular demon has been put to bed. Twisted ankle earlier in unrelated incident. A little sore but didn't seem to affect climbing.

with cem
tsjx 31/Oct/14 2nd
with John Mc
Hidden 25/Oct/14 Lead O/S
Hidden 17/Sep/14 Lead dog
nick ferro 13/Sep/14 Lead O/S
with ed edwards, Oli Birkill
jbb 10/Sep/14 2nd

Lots of 'fun' with the ropes!

Charlotte Nelson 13/Jun/14 2nd
with roisin
Hidden 29/Mar/14 AltLd O/S
Bloke on a Rope 29/Mar/14 Lead O/S

Soloed 1st pitch and lead the 2nd

Maia 16/Mar/14 AltLd O/S

Rich did first pitch, I did second- very nice but hard to eliminate rope drag.

with rich_hw
rich_hw 16/Mar/14 AltLd O/S
with Maia
GLO 09/Mar/14 AltLd
Hidden 09/Mar/14 AltLd O/S
James Jackson ??/2014 -
dominic lee 28/Dec/13 Solo
Hidden 01/Jul/13 Lead
ashmellor 09/Jun/13 AltLd O/S
with Fawley1
Fawley1 09/Jun/13 AltLd O/S
Nigel Bond 23/Apr/13 2nd
with Bern Hardman
schristophersmith 05/Mar/13 2nd dnf

Getting dark so bottled out and let others finish from second belay ledge

althesin 05/Mar/13 Lead O/S
with Reds
Reds 05/Mar/13 2nd rpt
the power 07/Feb/13 2nd

if your a vs leader get on croton oil.this route is poo

deacondeacon 07/Feb/13 Lead O/S


SteveM 02/Feb/13 2nd
spragglerocks 02/Feb/13 Lead rpt
with SteveM
Hidden 11/Nov/12 2nd
MikeDowsett 11/Nov/12 AltLd
with Pete Scott
rustaldo 04/Nov/12 2nd O/S

A good adventurous route, quite physical for the grade, maybe worth soft HVS. shame about the rope drag, although hard to avoid it. maybe worth another star. VS 4c **

Hidden 27/Oct/12 2nd
Andrew Sloan 18/Oct/12 Lead rpt

A bit contrived but a brilliant route. Rebelayed on midway ledge, still ended up with rope jamming when taking in from the top.

with Steve Grove
Bradbury 18/Sep/12 Lead O/S

Climbed badly

Graeme Hammond 17/Sep/12 2nd rpt

Andy led both pitches as I'd led both previously

kfowler141 11/Aug/12 Lead
Hidden 19/Jun/12 AltLd O/S
adi bryant 15/Apr/12 Lead O/S
with Liz
Hidden 01/Apr/12 AltLd rpt
JamesP ??/2012 -
Lumbering Oaf 07/Oct/11 2nd RP

Did this as two pitches. Led first pitch Croton Oil start to ledges at back. Attempted second pitch on hand traverse to notch. Failed. Let Alan lead it!

with hotfeet
hotfeet 07/Oct/11 AltLd

did as 2 pitches, still had bad rope drag on 2nd pitch.

valentinesbabe 19/Aug/11 AltLd O/S

I led P1 Charley led P2 . Nuch nicer route than it looks. Needs care with rope work on P2 though.

with charley
charley 19/Aug/11 AltLd O/S

Did P2... So much nicer then how it looks... From the ground it looks like its going to be a battle. So much so that I did Croton Oil first as it looked easier. Turns out, the second you step around the arete, it's a bit of a jug-fest. The only battle was the nightmare rope drag...

Danny Crump 24/Jul/11 2nd
with Aegist
Hidden 24/Jul/11 Lead dnf
Brown 31/May/11 Solo
with Gabriel
Hidden 26/May/11 AltLd
Deezel65 13/May/11 Lead O/S
with Fragmod
Harry Thorpe 15/Apr/11 Lead O/S
with Sarah Rixham
Hidden 02/Apr/11 Solo O/S
harold walmsley 22/Mar/11 AltLd O/S

Led p1

with Colin Struthers
timofy 18/Mar/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 03/Feb/11 AltLd O/S
pmurdy 03/Feb/11 Lead O/S
with Ollie B
CurlyStevo ??/2011 Lead

A good route quite hard in the grade but never HVS or 5a

with Kenny
Oceanic 20/Nov/10 -
Neil R 03/Oct/10 2nd
with James
James Oswald 02/Oct/10 Lead O/S

Nice. A strange route and it's friggin hard not to get bad rope drag! Awesome moves to get up onto the ledge. Felt difficult for VS.

with Neil R
Hidden 25/Sep/10 2nd O/S
Jonathan Hall 28/May/10 Lead
John Tourle 28/May/10 2nd
with Jonathan Hall
Rachel Slater 28/Apr/10 2nd O/S
Chi Cheng 28/Apr/10 Lead O/S

Did as 2 pitches. lead both

mark20 20/Apr/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 05/Apr/10 2nd O/S
Hidden 05/Apr/10 Lead rpt
Hidden 10/Mar/10 2nd O/S
ig248 ?/Feb/10 Lead O/S
Seymore Butt ??/2010 -
Hidden 25/Oct/09 2nd O/S
Laurence Everitt 23/Sep/09 Lead O/S
Rosie Henstock 23/Sep/09 2nd
Irn Bruce 05/Sep/09 Lead rpt

Logistical nightmare for rope drag! Soloed the first half so I could turn the corner without the rope dragging down to protection further down. Fell off after the next swing round though as I didn't see the horizontal crack for feet. Got it right on the second attempt and finished. Granted, I didn't start from the bottom on the second attempt but to be fair, I don't think bit matters for this climb (especially as it was previously soloed ) so ethics police, shut yer lip!

with Ian Jenkins
Hidden 09/Aug/09 Lead O/S
Hidden 09/Aug/09 2nd O/S
howlingbaboon 22/May/09 Lead O/S

Led both pitches. The 1st pitch it worth doing with a good challenge climbing both of the cracks. The traverse on the 2nd pitch was sustained,pumpy and pretty scary. The drizzle didn't help friction matters. Harder than Croton Oil IMHO.

Hidden 12/May/09 2nd O/S
CliffSurtees ??/2009 Lead
Hidden 11/Oct/08 AltLd O/S
JackMountains 17/Sep/08 Lead O/S
with James Fleming
Guy Bennell ?/Aug/08 2nd
with Andre Hedger, Duncan Simpson
Hidden 17/Jun/08 Lead rpt
morganator 25/May/08 Solo
alaan 31/Mar/08 Solo O/S

And down again...obviously.

Hidden 29/Mar/08 2nd O/S
Anna Horrox 11/Feb/08 2nd
clive-greenwood 11/Feb/08 Lead O/S
Kirill 12/Jan/08 AltLd dnf

Dislocated left shoulder

with Ketu
roberto18 ??/2008 -
Pixie-Andy ??/2008 2nd
with lucasp
Hidden ??/2008 -
Andrew Sloan 23/Dec/07 Lead dog

Pretty tough for VS.

Martin Haworth ?/Dec/07 AltLd
sstanier 10/Nov/07 2nd dnf

Traverse is nasty if you dont trust friction and get moving quickly....i just pumped myself out messing around!

with Sam Clarke
Sam Clarke 10/Nov/07 Lead dog
with Sam Stanier
KeithW 03/Nov/07 2nd dog

I was rubbish on this. Failed on the traverse.

with Ian Bentley
MikeLeeds 13/Oct/07 Lead O/S
with Mira Slavova
Hidden 13/Oct/07 2nd dog
Graeme Hammond 22/Sep/07 Lead O/S

led both pitches

with Pete aka Dad
Hidden 15/Sep/07 2nd dnf
dhdaveuk 01/Sep/07 2nd RP
with Leo
scarybiker 01/Jul/07 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/Jul/07 Lead
Sgt. Vest 20/Jun/07 Lead O/S
with Chris Braine
Matt Bulmer 05/May/07 2nd dog
with malc
malc 05/May/07 Lead rpt
dan gibson 27/Apr/07 Solo rpt
with AJ
Bob M 25/Mar/07 Lead
with riggy
mike bridges 10/Mar/07 AltLd O/S

I led the 1st pitch,Rob led to the summit.

roberto18 10/Mar/07 AltLd
with Dad (Mike Bridges)
John Marsland 18/Feb/07 Lead O/S
with ArnaudG
ArnaudG 18/Feb/07 2nd
Hidden ??/2007 -
Hidden ??/2007 -
SteveM 30/Sep/06 Lead
victim of mathematics 11/Sep/06 2nd O/S
crossdressingrodney 11/Sep/06 Lead O/S
markbenton 09/May/06 Lead dog

great night

with madaxeman
madaxeman 09/May/06 2nd
DerwentDiluted 09/May/06 Lead
with Laurie Smith
Iggy_B 02/May/06 AltLd
with Mutl3y
Mutl3y 02/May/06 AltLd

I led the final pitch.

with Iggy_B
Lev 29/Apr/06 Lead O/S
with Emma
Hidden 29/Apr/06 2nd O/S
annakyn 01/Apr/06 Lead
with Dave Williams
Si dH 11/Jan/06 Lead O/S

Only second pitch, couldnt be bothered with 2 pitches since time was short and I've done the start before on Croton Oil. Nice route, quite tough for VS I thought.

with Neil Furniss
Sankey 03/Jun/05 AltLd O/S

Second pitch traverse is pumpy and quite hard

with Andy E
Hidden 21/Feb/05 Lead O/S
Stig ?/Aug/04 2nd O/S
with Charlie Reade-Jahn
Hidden ?/Aug/04 AltLd
Cake ?/Aug/04 AltLd O/S
peter myers ?/May/04 Lead

My first VS lead

with Sion
thetourist 11/Apr/04 Lead O/S
cem 22/Feb/04 2nd
with GrahamD
Phil West 04/Jan/04 Lead dnf
with Shaun Walby
Neil Henson ?/Dec/03 AltLd

Lead first pitch. Traverse was very pumpy. Fell off the traverse and swung round the needle. High in the grade and I thought this route was crap (not just because I failed on it)

with Andy Tims
Simon Caldwell 26/Oct/03 Lead dog

Lots of rests on pitch 2

with Lemming
Hidden 28/Sep/03 Lead
Mark Stevenson 07/Jan/03 Solo
Hidden ?/Jan/03 Lead
Hidden ?/Jan/03 Lead
Hidden ?/Jan/03 Lead
Hidden ?/Jan/03 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/Jan/03 Lead
Hidden ??/2003 2nd rpt
Hidden ??/2003 AltLd O/S
Budge 07/Aug/02 2nd O/S
Hidden ?/Jun/02 2nd
DubyaJamesDubya ?/Jun/02 Lead O/S
with Martin Flint
Reds 15/Apr/02 Lead dog
with Andy
benjih2o ??/2002 Lead
with dai ozatti
Hidden ??/2002 2nd β
Hidden 28/Oct/01 2nd O/S
Hidden 27/May/01 Lead rpt
snowy_woodruff 14/May/01 Lead
with Mem
99bolivar 27/Jun/00 -
with Lewis Bowman
tlr ??/2000 Solo
tuftynick ??/2000 Lead
Simon Pearce ??/2000 -

university years

Hidden ?/Dec/99 2nd
Hidden 31/Oct/99 Lead
five ?/Jul/99 Lead O/S
with SH
TBowell nee Holdsworth ??/1999 -
Brian Rodgers ??/1998 -
with Paul Hennelly
Hidden ??/1998 2nd rpt
steveb2006 18/Jun/97 Lead

Neil ? also seconds

with Rob Gambles
Ropeboy 29/Mar/97 Lead
BruceW ??/1997 AltLd O/S
with Keith S.
Hidden ??/1997 2nd O/S
crater 15/Sep/96 2nd
SR1970 ?/Sep/96 Lead O/S
Neil Conway 07/Mar/96 2nd O/S
with Steve Hardy
crossleysm ??/1996 -
ste_d 01/Jun/95 Lead O/S
Mike_d78 01/Jun/95 Solo O/S
colin milton 08/May/95 2nd
with eric milton
IanGilbertJones 11/Jan/95 Solo O/S
astrecks 03/Jun/94 Lead O/S
with Rod
tompercy ?/Feb/94 2nd
with Tim Loftus
jim_randell 04/Jun/93 2nd O/S
with LS, MB, MS
Colin McKerrell ??/1993 -
roncaves 08/Nov/92 Lead
with Ed Hyatt
Hidden 18/Oct/92 Solo
Hidden 17/Jun/92 2nd O/S
nuts and bolts ?/Sep/90 -
IanHazzard 11/Aug/90 -
Roget 28/May/90 Lead O/S
with jim
NickJH ?/May/90 2nd
with D Townsend
leathers ??/1990 -
Marti999 ??/1990 Lead
goi.ashmore 06/Mar/88 Lead O/S
with Ric Marchant
Pete Pozman 03/Mar/88 2nd rpt
with John Byrne
GordonHart ??/1986 Lead O/S
malc 22/Jul/84 Lead O/S
mikej 04/Jun/83 Lead
with Mike Byles
babymoac 08/Jun/81 Lead
with MTW
Hidden 14/Feb/81 Lead
Chris Ellis 24/Jul/80 2nd
with Martin Veale
Brian Wilderspin 05/Apr/80 Lead O/S
Andy Say ?/May/79 Lead O/S
Dave Musgrove 25/Aug/76 Lead
with Jim Worthington
Hidden 24/Apr/76 AltLd
greenbuoy 28/Nov/71 2nd
with Bob Lister
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High HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
High HS
Mid HS
Low HS
Votes cast 33
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
High 4b
Mid 4b
Low 4b
Votes cast 33
Votes cast 29
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
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Flashed (β)
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