Rockfax Description
The centre of the slab has bold moves to the midway break (small cams) and then turns technical and reachy above. A bit escapable but the climbing is good enough to ignore that fact. © Rockfax

FA. John Allen 1985

Ticklists: ROCKFAX Eastern Grit (2006): Top 500, Burbage, Millstone and Beyond Routes Graded List.

Marl 05/Aug TR rpt
Marl 18/May TR rpt

Training on traction device

climberchristy 13/May 2nd

Ben led the E1 but I seconded up the E3 line in centre. Steady enough moves but would be scary on lead with big ground fall potential.

with bencole
Paul Figg 17/Apr 2nd
Hidden 06/Apr 2nd rpt
Hidden 04/Apr TR dog
buxtoncoffeelover 04/Apr TR
Felix la shat 18/Feb Lead O/S
fuzzysheep01 05/Nov/16 Lead O/S

Hung around at the bottom of Brush Off for a while but wasn't feeling bold enough. Some pretty sketchy moves traversing across and up to the mid-way break (maybe started the traverse from the arete a bit too high) but you finally reach a few bomber small cams. Nice technical slab climbing after that. A good route.

pete1993 28/Oct/16 Lead O/S

Good value without micro cams, few nervy moments but all the moves are fine when you commit

with Shaun
Teappleby 26/Oct/16 Lead rpt
with Olga Kondrashova, Fran Hammond
James Oakes 22/Oct/16 Lead O/S
with Matt Lyons, Lucy Bradbury, Harry Morrish
Hidden 11/Sep/16 Lead O/S
Calum Wadsworth 13/May/16 Lead O/S

Chuffed. Thankfully none of the moves felt more than 5b so I wasn't half as terrified as I expected to be. If the moves are 5b then its probably only E2? Worthwhile route which I have always been to scared to get on in the past.

with Emma
HarryBowyer 13/Sep/15 TR dog
Andrew Abraham 13/Sep/15 Lead O/S
with Ceara
mark4344 11/Aug/15 TR
with Dave Rich
Hidden 12/Jun/15 -
jimbonfire 07/Jun/15 2nd O/S
with Ryan Mcconnell
spidey 07/Jun/15 Lead O/S

contrived. uses the first gear on the E1 then moves left. would be bold without the micro cam toward the top

Hidden ?/Jun/15 -
Neal Jobling 30/May/15 TR O/S
with Andy Burr
Sam McCarthy 23/May/15 Lead rpt

wish I hadn't seconded it peviously

James Lowe 23/May/15 2nd
with Tom Bennell, Sam M
Jono_LS16 20/May/15 Lead O/S
MSchobitz 16/May/15 2nd rpt
with USMC, Fran Hammond
Sam McCarthy 16/May/15 2nd O/S

gonna come back for the lead

with Micky, Fran
franhammond92 16/May/15 Lead O/S

Possibly a little far right at times but returned to the proper line where it counts

Hidden 10/May/15 Lead β
Hidden 10/May/15 Lead β
Sam Marks 10/May/15 Lead O/S
with leeds bunch, sheffield bunch
Morgan P 10/May/15 2nd O/S


Kim M 06/May/15 Lead O/S
with Nige
MSchobitz 25/Apr/15 Lead β

first E3!

Teappleby 25/Apr/15 2nd

Wandered all over between this and the brush off. Nice lead by Micki, absolutely cruised it!

Graeme Hammond 23/Apr/15 Lead RP
with Becky E
MysteriousCeorl 20/Mar/15 TR
Cake 27/Oct/14 Lead O/S

Close enough to onsight, given that I had just climbed fringe benefit.

with Matt
Theo Moore - UKC and UKH 12/Oct/14 Lead O/S

Good but a bit soft and eliminate

with Roisin
Hidden 03/Oct/14 Lead β
WillDoyle 02/Oct/14 Lead O/S
Nick1812P 09/Sep/14 Lead rpt
with Matt H
Hidden 16/Aug/14 Lead O/S
beth.westonhoward 01/Jul/14 2nd
with Jon Fane
Hidden 01/Jul/14 2nd O/S
Coel Hellier 04/May/14 Lead
Hidden 22/Mar/14 2nd O/S
robw007 01/Mar/14 Lead β
Teappleby 11/Dec/13 Lead

First E3 on lead. Pretty good small cams in the break and the climbing felt relatively easy. Great fun!

Matthew Ferrier 11/Dec/13 Lead β

On Tom's gear. Pretty good.

amccann 12/Nov/13 Lead O/S
Teappleby 12/Nov/13 2nd
Wayne S 26/Jun/13 2nd O/S
with Deacon
deacondeacon 26/Jun/13 Lead O/S

Pockets had spiders webs in them but pretty steady climbing. Very happy to get to the gear placement though! Really midge evening but they were too scared to come onto the face, they regrouped while I was belaying though.

Hidden 22/Apr/13 TR O/S
Andrew Lodge 22/Apr/13 TR O/S

Great fun, on a top rope!

with Steve
Hidden 16/Mar/13 TR O/S
Nick1812P 17/Feb/13 Lead dnf

escaped off on to fringe benefit

with Anna
bclifton ??/2013 Lead O/S
jfane ??/2013 Lead O/S
tinab ??/2013 Lead
rd20 11/Nov/12 2nd O/S
GarethHall 11/Nov/12 Lead O/S
Ben1983 22/Sep/12 Lead O/S
Hidden 29/Jul/12 2nd
disturbed_one51 02/Jun/12 2nd
with Wee man
Jonathan Hall 02/Jun/12 Lead
Hidden 24/Mar/12 TR O/S
MD 11/Mar/12 TR dog
with Ed
eduardo 11/Mar/12 TR
Chad123 26/Feb/12 Lead O/S

Cheated slightly as used (rubbish) side runner in the E1 to reach the break - pregnant wife banned me from anything bold today! Lovely slab climbing in top half especially interesting....

with Emily
Gambit 25/Feb/12 Lead O/S
with Barney
adi bryant 25/Feb/12 -

I toproped MG on this.

tcn_2002 18/Feb/12 TR
Nick Sillem ??/2012 Lead O/S
Jim Malo 27/Nov/11 TR O/S
with Putt
cragtyke 27/Nov/11 2nd
with john g
davewsargent 24/Oct/11 2nd O/S
pie_eater_pete 24/Oct/11 Lead O/S
J.Wells 22/Sep/11 Lead rpt
Katya 09/Aug/11 2nd
Paul Phillips - UKC and UKH 09/Aug/11 Lead rpt
Paul Phillips - UKC and UKH 16/Apr/11 Lead O/S
jimshrimp 11/Mar/11 2nd
Martin Cooper 02/Oct/10 Lead O/S
with Andrew, Stan
thomasadixon 24/Sep/10 Lead O/S

Felt harder than the brush off! Better gear though.

with Mike, andy
Hidden ?/May/10 Lead RP
Si dH 28/Apr/10 2nd O/S

Followed this after Chris had led Fringe Benefit, scooting right and back to get the gear. Way beyond my leading capability at the minute - a bit scary that until recently it got E2!

with Chris Foster
J.Wells 20/Apr/10 2nd
Hidden 20/Apr/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 27/Mar/10 Lead
pedro.silva 14/Mar/10 2nd O/S

Smeary, delicate, hopeful climbing. Just fantastic

Hidden 14/Mar/10 2nd
Hidden 14/Mar/10 Lead β
Andrew Barker 31/Jan/10 Lead O/S

Followed the direct line up the slab, fun but very similar moves the whole way. The gear felt almost too far right to be on the route, especially as it'a an eliminate, but I wasn't complaining about using it!

tri-nitro-tuolumne 22/Sep/09 Lead O/S
with Rob Truckle
Hidden 30/Jul/09 Lead O/S
Hidden 30/Jul/09 2nd O/S
Misha 10/May/09 Lead O/S

Hard and tenuous to the break, felt easier after - gear makes such a difference! Didn't quite follow the most direct line to the break - went slightly righ for a couple of moves, probably avoiding the most tenuous ones.

MD 10/May/09 2nd dog

Was more technically difficult below the breaks with the gear than above

with Misha
metal arms 10/Jan/09 Lead O/S
stephenhartley ??/2009 2nd
with Burns
Hidden 24/Oct/08 Lead O/S
PenJD 24/Oct/08 Lead β
Nicos 24/Oct/08 Lead O/S
with frazer
Brown 02/Jun/08 2nd O/S
with Bridget
The old James turnbull ??/2008 Lead
riklegge ??/2008 -
with Mike Pickwell
The old James turnbull ??/2008 Lead
The old James turnbull ??/2008 Lead
climbingrick 20/May/07 Lead O/S
baldcoder 21/Apr/07 TR O/S
alicia 15/Mar/07 2nd
with Fiend
bfreeman ?/Mar/07 Lead O/S
maybe_si 17/Dec/06 TR O/S
with charlie
Hidden 27/Aug/06 2nd dog
Iggy_B 03/Aug/06 Lead O/S
with Shane
Hidden 19/Jul/06 TR O/S
Hidden 05/Mar/06 Lead O/S
Hidden 19/Feb/06 TR O/S
Hidden 20/Nov/05 Lead
mikeski ??/2005 2nd
Hidden ??/2005 Lead O/S
Pythonist ??/2003 Lead O/S

When it was E2, and felt fine at the time...

with Darcy Mitchell
Hidden ?/Jun/02 TR
Mark Davies PK ?/Apr/01 TR O/S
with Francis Lickerish
ewen ??/2001 -
stuart100 10/May/00 TR O/S
with Claire Graham
Tim W 13/Feb/00 TR dnf
Hidden ??/2000 -
tuftynick ??/2000 Lead
David Qualtrough 09/May/98 -
Billg ??/1998 Lead O/S
Hidden 18/Jun/97 Lead
Hidden 15/Feb/97 TR
Hidden ??/1997 2nd O/S
Martin Bennett 08/Sep/95 TR
Hidden 16/Jul/94 TR
Hidden 13/Jul/94 TR
Hidden ?/Sep/93 TR
Hidden 08/Sep/91 TR O/S
Rob Davies 14/Jul/91 TR
goi.ashmore 23/Jun/91 Lead O/S
with Rich France
Hidden ??/1991 Lead O/S
Rich Kirby 22/Aug/90 Lead O/S
with John Evans & Co
Hidden 13/Aug/89 Lead O/S
uphillnow ??/1989 TR
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High E4
Mid E4
Low E4
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
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High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
Votes cast 47
Votes cast 43
Style of ascent
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Flashed (β)
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