Rockfax Description
The right-hand side of the cave leads to the lip of the roof which is passed with difficulty (stepping in from the ledge on the right is taboo at the grade) to gain the upper slab. Pass the cave (occasional raven's nest) to the final crack which gives tenuous finger-jamming to a sandy exit. © Rockfax

FA. Dave Johnson 1956. FFA.Tom Proctor 1975

Ticklists: Burbage, Millstone and Beyond Routes Graded List, Full of Myself - Johnny's Book namecheck, 50 cracks to Squamish, Peak Rock/12/The New Golden Age, Cracks And Corners To Greatness, Ultimate E3 ticklist, WideBoyz Crack School, Tom Randalls Classic Finger Cracks, Burbage, Millstone and Beyond in 3 stars, Definitive *** Peak Grit.

Gabe Oliver 15/Oct Lead dnf

End of the day and just couldn't get the arms working to make the move round the second overlap. Frustrating. One to come back to.

benkelsey 09/Oct Lead O/S

This went surprisingly well except feeling very unbalanced after crux one. None of the moves feel too hard but setting up for them while placing gear makes it definitely E3

with mrteale
mrteale 09/Oct 2nd rpt

Nice to get up this again. Good lead by Ben.

FlavioL1989 28/Jul Lead O/S
with Jenny
WilliamRupp 18/Jul Lead O/S
ashtond6 08/Jul Lead β

Tried and faimed at first moves on 2014. Retro flash

Hidden 08/Jul Lead O/S
CMoore 30/Apr 2nd O/S

Brilliant route! Sustained interest for sure! impressive top wall. took about 5-10 mins unlike the 4 hrs it took Rory to lead!!

tunnah 29/Apr Lead dog

was 4 x faster than a snail on this. i know its bad

with scott
Scott Quinn 29/Apr 2nd O/S

nice & steady, really good peg scars

Adam Long 23/Apr 2nd


with Ben Bransby
TRip 22/Oct/16 2nd dog


with Rich H
Neilaw 24/Sep/16 2nd

With cheat right at cave

Sophie Nunn 24/Sep/16 Lead dog

Long move! Bailed to the right!

with Neil W
James Oswald 23/Sep/16 Lead dog

With a rest before the final crux after getting really pumped figuring out what to do. Hard crux but conceivably e3 if you figure out how to do it.

MichaelGallimore 06/Aug/16 Lead β

Steep and pumpy. Nice moves up the headwall. Did a jam on top of a nut through the crux pull, annoyingly.

Hidden 19/Jun/16 Lead dog
drysori 19/Jun/16 2nd
JendeHoxar 07/Jun/16 2nd
with Ed
Hidden 07/Jun/16 Lead O/S
phil64 22/May/16 2nd rpt

Excellent pumpy stuff

with Andy Bowman
pearson9596 11/Jul/15 Lead O/S
ian d f 11/Jul/15 2nd O/S
with Mark S
Mark Stevenson 11/Jul/15 Lead
Hidden 11/Jul/15 2nd
tim newton 21/Jun/15 Lead O/S
Rachel Slater 21/Jun/15 2nd rpt
Teappleby 11/May/15 2nd O/S
dom94 11/May/15 Lead O/S
Brannock 26/Apr/15 Lead
Hidden 26/Apr/15 2nd dog
Louishmouis ?/Apr/15 Lead O/S
with Felix
WB 30/Aug/14 Lead O/S

i don't like pin scars

with Guy
Hannes B 24/Aug/14 Lead O/S
with Phil
Brannock 28/Jul/14 2nd
mrteale 26/Jun/14 Lead O/S
Hidden 13/Jun/14 -
Hidden 12/Jun/14 2nd dog
Duncan Campbell 11/Jun/14 2nd

Had to pull on a wire to get into crack above cave - pretty reachy! Very good.

with Robbie
Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing 11/Jun/14 Lead
James Oswald 11/Jun/14 Lead dnf

Really tough. Got through the first crux, trying to get onto the jug to the right of the crack. Very tough. After the cave (sit down rest) I struggled to get over the bulge and ended up resting on the gear. I was always too pumped when I arrived at the pull over the lip. I then lowered off.. One to come back for, amazing route.

Rachel Slater 11/Jun/14 2nd rpt
Nick Sillem 21/Apr/14 Lead rpt
Hidden 21/Apr/14 2nd dog
pie_eater_pete 19/Apr/14 Lead
bwestwood 19/Apr/14 2nd
uphillnow ??/2014 -

Did as aid route jan 25th 1969

drysori 06/Oct/13 Lead dog

A bit dirty in some breaks. Great climbing, but combination of dew and not enough warm up saw me pretty pumped, then my ropes got stuck in the crack! Had to get top rope rescue.

with Andy Gray
Hidden 06/Oct/13 Lead O/S
Dan Bates 29/Sep/13 -
Andy Peak 1 29/Sep/13 Lead RP

Nice to finaly get up this in good style, moves are not hard but reqwire you to be acurate when you go for them!

Andy Moles 24/Sep/13 2nd
with Ferdia, Malc
ferdia 24/Sep/13 2nd
Hidden 14/Sep/13 Lead RP
JBO 10/Sep/13 Lead O/S

Great route, really varied climbing and some awesome moves. This is definitely a tough E3 though, there's a lot of hard moves and you really have to work for it!

tebs 31/Aug/13 Lead dnf

Even with reasonable feet, I wasn't strong enough to lock off into the crack. Had about 5 goes at it downclimbing back to the cave for a rest before admitting defeat. Peg and tat woeful, was glad of a small but bomber cam as well.

with Tom, Adam
tebs 31/Aug/13 2nd dog

Still couldn't make the reach on top rope. Ended up pulling up off a really really poor fingertip lock lower in the crack. Felt like it was friction only!

with Tom, Adam
Tom Livingstone 20/Aug/13 Lead dog
Hidden 06/May/13 Lead O/S
Andy Peak 1 06/May/13 Lead

To much for me today but glad i got on it but complete shut down at the top lay back rock over,this shod of bean my second route of the day not fifth!

with Tom Martin
henry peter jenkins 05/May/13 Lead O/S

really nice route. cruxy getting in to the first crack system.

with jake mcmanus, robbie jenkins
ejected ??/2013 -
Hidden ??/2013 2nd
esther ?/Oct/12 Lead
dominic lee 16/Sep/12 Lead rpt
Olli-C 07/Sep/12 2nd β

the climbing isn't as hard as it looks, but placing the gear looked to be the crux.

with Nige S, Rachel Slater
Rachel Slater 07/Sep/12 2nd O/S
with Nigel Slater, Olli Crudge
Misha 11/Aug/12 Lead dog

Second time on this one after failing to do the crux (went round it) and the top overlap back in March 2009. Almost got the crux on the first go. Wasn't even that hard on the second go - should have had a rest before committing on the first go. Great sequence. Spent a long time at the overlap before I got it sussed - another nice sequence. Horrendous rope drag from the overlap as both ropes got stuck in the crack on the lip of the overhang, should have extended them further. Mark didn't follow. Abbing down for the gear was a bit of a pain as didn't get the ab line quite right.

with Mark
masa-alpin 22/Jul/12 Lead dnf

Chickened out by hanging on the peg at the first overhang and being lowered down to the cave (then moved to Erb). I should have placed my own gear around there, really.

with Lee P
Howard Lawledge 11/Jul/12 Lead O/S
with Jack
pmurdy 14/Jun/12 2nd
with Mike W
mwatson 14/Jun/12 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/May/12 Lead O/S
Apharri 29/Mar/12 2nd β

Wish I'd led it

pie_eater_pete 21/Mar/12 Lead dog
Tony Kartawick ??/2012 -
Dan Mckinlay ??/2012 -
maddy.c ??/2012 Lead
Hidden 29/Oct/11 Lead
Hidden 10/Sep/11 Lead rpt
chrism225 08/Sep/11 2nd dog
with pete
thomasadixon 21/Jul/11 Lead O/S

Sadly dirty, would be brilliant if clean.

with Mike, Becca
BeccaSnowden 21/Jul/11 2nd dog

1 fall at crux - found it hard to reach the holds

with Mike
Brown 17/May/11 Lead
with Gabrial
Hidden 17/May/11 2nd O/S
Ian Broome 02/May/11 2nd rpt

Found this again quite a battle, despite just seconding. great route

with Tim
Hidden 02/May/11 Lead O/S
steve_yo 28/Mar/11 Lead O/S
with smacks
mwatson ??/2011 -
Speeddemonsi 16/Sep/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 21/Aug/10 Lead dnf
melonmike 07/Aug/10 2nd dog

Gave up too easily

Hidden 07/Aug/10 Lead rpt
Dogmusher 06/Aug/10 2nd
with chris parson
drcorbasisgod 06/Aug/10 Lead RP
PeteH 01/Aug/10 Lead O/S

Definitely a couple of 6a moves on this, if you ask me! Great climb though.

with Chris Fox
Marti999 20/Jun/10 Lead O/S
with Anna
dj_brigham05 02/May/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 16/Apr/10 Lead
Hidden 17/Mar/10 Lead O/S
TonyF ??/2010 Lead
Luke Brooks 09/Nov/09 Lead O/S
Hidden 09/Nov/09 2nd O/S
Hidden 31/Oct/09 Lead
lukea ?/Oct/09 Lead
with felix
Hidden 19/Aug/09 Lead dog
Hidden 21/Apr/09 2nd O/S
Hidden 05/Apr/09 -
Dan 85 03/Apr/09 Lead RP

Feel off at first bit. Got 2nd go. Dodgy peg and old tat. Sat in cave for a rest.

with Tim
Boy ?/Apr/09 -
with Nige Kershaw
Adam Long 29/Aug/08 Lead O/S

Best E3 on the crag? Brilliant.

with Pete Robins
Alex Mason 03/Aug/08 Lead O/S

Loved this route, a neo-favourite. Two great cruxes with susained interest all the way.

The old James turnbull ?/Jun/08 Lead
with aiden
alaan 08/May/08 Lead O/S
with Ian
Ian Broome 08/May/08 2nd dog

hard technical butchness! Millstone seems to kick me up the arse! good effort by Al.

with Al
Ram MkiV 06/May/08 Lead O/S

Some cool cranking on solid finger locks.

with Tommy M
Tom Briggs - Jagged Globe 05/May/08 Lead
with Rachel Hassall
Hidden 14/Sep/07 Lead O/S
Toby Dunn 17/Aug/07 2nd
with JulesV
dan gibson 05/Aug/07 Lead O/S
with john singleton
Toby Dunn 22/May/07 Lead O/S
with dave evans
Rob Kennard ??/2007 -
dannyboy83 17/Sep/06 2nd O/S
feilx 17/Sep/06 Lead O/S

Stepped right onto the ledge

Tom Briggs - Jagged Globe ??/2005 -
Rich Kirby ?/Aug/02 2nd rpt
with Chris Read
DubyaJamesDubya ?/Jul/02 Lead O/S
with Ian Smith
Hidden ??/2002 -
Tim M ??/2000 Lead O/S
nickcanute ??/2000 Lead O/S
nickcanute ??/2000 Lead O/S
Hidden 29/Mar/98 Lead
Hidden 05/Oct/97 Lead
Hidden ?/Oct/96 Lead O/S
Hidden 07/Aug/96 Lead
Dave Musgrove 07/May/96 -

Good value!

with Paul Dawson
Hidden ??/1996 2nd
D Tempest 18/May/95 2nd
with Rick
ste_d 23/May/94 2nd O/S
with mik
andybirtwistle 30/Apr/94 Lead
with Steve Brewis
Dave Rumney ??/1994 2nd
nai ??/1994 Lead
Roget 15/Aug/93 Lead O/S
with Jonathan T
NickJH ?/Aug/93 Lead O/S
with AGrieve
mattnuttall 13/Jul/93 2nd O/S
with Alan Holden
Steve Crowe 04/Jul/93 Lead O/S
nokishatov 12/May/93 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/1993 Lead
crossleysm ??/1993 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/Sep/92 AltLd
Hidden 28/Jul/92 2nd
Hidden 28/Jul/92 Lead
Cowflinger 12/Apr/92 TR
mik1miller ??/1992 Lead O/S
sadams 21/Jun/91 2nd
with Kev Mellieu
KRB 15/Sep/90 Lead O/S

Great climbing and not as hard as expected. Was psyched up to do it on a day years earlier but witnessed Keith Myhill fall off Green Death and decided to pack up for the day.

with Neil Gregory
phil64 ??/1990 Lead O/S
Hidden 05/May/89 Lead O/S
Rich Kirby ??/1989 Lead
Hidden 24/May/87 Lead dog
Billg 25/Apr/87 Lead O/S
with Dave Gregory
Eduardo Martinez ??/1987 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/1987 -
Hidden ??/1986 2nd O/S
Alan James - UKC and UKH 29/Sep/85 Lead
with Brian Harley
ukb & bmc shark 18/Jun/85 Lead rpt
with Charlie Stripp
Hidden 08/Jun/85 2nd
andy gittins ??/1985 -
ukb & bmc shark 15/Jun/84 2nd dog
with Unknown Cambs Uni student
Dave Turnbull 25/Apr/84 Lead O/S
with Ian Bocock
Andy Nicholson ?/Mar/84 Lead O/S
with Spike
jon 02/Oct/83 Lead
with H
Gezzer ??/1983 Lead O/S
with Merv Dudley
Hidden ??/1982 Lead β
Ian Jones ??/1982 Lead
with John Mayers, Rich Lewis etc
Hidden ??/1981 Lead
Mike Owen 02/Oct/80 Lead O/S
with Al Stewart
Mark Kemball 16/Aug/80 Lead
with John Jefferies
duncan ?/May/80 Lead β

First Grit E3 (discounting retrospective upgrades)

with Fiona Percy
Robmwatt ??/1980 -
Robmwatt ??/1980 -
Chris Craggs ??/1980 Lead
Al Evans ??/1976 -
33 users have this on their wishlist
High E4
Mid E4
Low E4
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
Votes cast 37
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
Votes cast 38
Votes cast 38
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Not Set