Rockfax Description
Climb the pleasant shallow groove left of the jutting roof via a short boulder problem sequence. Despite its brevity, it is hard for HVS and hard for 5b! © Rockfax

FA. Bill Briggs 1976

Ticklists: ROCKFAX Eastern Grit (2006): Top 500, Burbage, Millstone and Beyond Routes Graded List.

Nafclimbsrocks 07/Jan 2nd O/S
with Gary
Hidden 12/Nov/17 Lead β
Hidden 27/Oct/17 Lead
Ilia Nadyrbayev 15/Oct/17 2nd O/S
Kirill 15/Oct/17 Lead
with Ilia
Mike Hewitt 02/Oct/17 Lead O/S
Lessworkmoreclimbing 23/May/17 2nd

Enjoyable tricky gritstone crux move, well protected.

with Trev Prew, Kev
Andrew Barker 27/Apr/17 Solo O/S


Droyd 11/Apr/17 Lead O/S

Definitely a V1 boulder problem in the sky, but great. Went up and down a few times to figure out the move, which is really good, and the gear is very inspiring.

with Alan
Hidden 11/Apr/17 2nd dnf
scottcoates 18/Feb/17 Lead O/S
with williap
williap 18/Feb/17 2nd
Hidden 18/Feb/17 Lead O/S
Natalie Berry - UKC 18/Feb/17 2nd O/S
fuzzysheep01 13/Nov/16 Lead O/S

Tricky couple of moves up the groove but bomber overhead gear if you need it. HVS 5b probably fair...just.

with Dave Rickerby , Ed Shaw
GregClixby 29/Oct/16 2nd O/S
mattlyons 22/Oct/16 Lead O/S
James Oakes 22/Oct/16 2nd O/S
with Matt Lyons, Lucy Bradbury, Harry Morrish
Martin Cooper 02/Oct/16 2nd

R hand to R of crack then long reach up to boss above crack. Ignored crack for holds but good rock 7

with Mark W, Nick
Nick Wallis 02/Oct/16 Lead dog


with Mark Whitworth, Martin Cooper
mikestr555 24/Jul/16 2nd
WillCass 29/May/16 Lead
with Monika
Calum Wadsworth 13/May/16 Lead O/S

Certainly not a cop out alternative to roof route!

with Emma
amccann 13/May/16 Lead O/S
with Matt H
Hidden 01/May/16 Lead dnf
Flavio 23/Apr/16 2nd O/S
rajeshwarbisht 23/Apr/16 Lead O/S
with Flavio
MrFantastic 17/Apr/16 Lead O/S
Alex Handley 17/Apr/16 2nd β

another great route

Andy Cantrell 13/Mar/16 Lead

With Katie (and Neil)

with Katie
katiemowbray 12/Mar/16 2nd

with Dad

trouserburp 12/Mar/16 Lead O/S

Much resting under roof. Did move upside-down??

atom 10/Oct/15 Lead dnf
Michael Bortoluzzi 04/Oct/15 Lead dog
with Steve Hobbs (WCC)
Matt Groom 12/Aug/15 Lead
with Nina
Neal Jobling 24/Jun/15 2nd RP
with Tony Flint
MysteriousCeorl 26/May/15 Lead rpt
Hidden 10/May/15 Lead O/S
Hardcore Pat 10/May/15 Lead O/S
with Dr Julie
Hidden 04/May/15 Lead
john lynch 26/Apr/15 Lead O/S
with esther
Bradbury 25/Apr/15 2nd O/S
with Phil Baxter 05/Apr/15 2nd dog
with Tony
BenedictIEP 27/Mar/15 Lead dnf


Jam_sandwich 27/Mar/15 2nd
MysteriousCeorl 20/Mar/15 Lead dnf

Fell going around the roof

Jimbo C 07/Mar/15 2nd

Tough! Hard to read and hard for 5b, gear not great either.

with Olly
dr_botnik 05/Mar/15 Lead RP

Don't think it's a "pleasant groove" more like an awkward boulder problem in the sky. Took me 3 goes to get it clean, and even then my foot nearly slipped off.

brownie mike 18/Jan/15 Lead O/S
the power 17/Jan/15 Lead rpt

Super sport.well hard

with chris
Palmer 17/Jan/15 Lead

After numerous attempts

Palmer 17/Jan/15 -
Si ?/Jan/15 Lead O/S
stevelismore 26/Oct/14 2nd O/S

Excellent lead by Tom-really tough climb.

with tom pcc
hodge192 26/Oct/14 Lead dog
Hidden 25/Oct/14 -
BoulderyDave 25/Oct/14 Lead RP
Nick1812P 09/Sep/14 Lead O/S

hard for HVS, and doesn't feel well protected.

with Matt H
Hidden 02/Mar/14 -
the power 22/Feb/14 Lead O/S
with deacon
gazfellows 16/Feb/14 Lead

Great route but hard at the grade !! Beeeeeeeff....

with Nic
mike mo ??/2014 -
mike mo ??/2014 -
admackie 15/Dec/13 Lead
Andy Moles 27/Sep/13 2nd
with Ferdia
ferdia 27/Sep/13 Lead O/S
Adam_42 01/Sep/13 2nd β

Felt desperate even on the blunt end.

with Alkis
Alkis 01/Sep/13 Lead O/S
Nigel Bond 01/Jul/13 TR
with Bern Hardman
kwaidy 11/May/13 TR
with sting
Hidden 23/Apr/13 Lead O/S
the power 01/Dec/12 2nd dnf

no fookin way

with owen
Cake 01/Dec/12 Lead O/S

As might be expected, an easy bit with a boulder problem to end. Tough moves

Hidden 27/Oct/12 Lead
riddle 13/Oct/12 Lead O/S
with Ted Rogers
deacondeacon 13/Oct/12 Lead O/S

Went up roof route, couldn't turn the lip so finished up this. Absolutely boxed from attempts on roof route but just scraped up it. Come onto ukc and see that I led roof route 3 years ago lol. My memory is defo getting worse. This section of crag really shows how far hvs can stretch. Groove route, roof route and nonsuch in a day and your probably gonna be ok on steady E2's.

Graeme Hammond 13/Oct/12 Lead rpt

guess I haven't improved much as it didn't seem much easier to lead 5 years after 2nding it!

with Ewan
goddamm7 27/May/12 Lead
with Sandrex
Andy Fielding 27/May/12 TR
with Mike Walton
saffy 13/May/12 Lead O/S
ranga 13/May/12 2nd
Charlie Zephyr Booth 13/May/12 Lead O/S
with martin broadhurst
helenstuart 06/May/12 2nd O/S
with Mike
climbinmunkey 06/May/12 Lead dog

Started up roof route and got spat out. Was wiped out and gripped on this one!

with Helen
Hidden 08/Apr/12 TR dnf
lizzie789 07/Apr/12 Lead O/S


marcduhig 07/Apr/12 2nd O/S
sopaz 06/Apr/12 2nd
Leofallon 21/Mar/12 TR
Tom Phillips 21/Mar/12 TR
with leo
MD 11/Mar/12 Lead dnf
with Ed
MD 11/Mar/12 TR dog

Worked out the sequence after backing off on the lead.

with Ed
eduardo 11/Mar/12 2nd
drcorbasisgod 09/Mar/12 2nd O/S
cem 09/Mar/12 Lead rpt
stevorobs3 18/Feb/12 Lead O/S
with Xandra
missxandrabee 18/Feb/12 2nd dog

The One With the Tall Boy Beta

with Boston Michael, Steve
AlanPedrick ??/2012 -
Tony Kartawick ??/2012 -
llamaglama 30/Nov/11 2nd
with Jam
Hidden 30/Nov/11 Lead O/S
James Oswald 18/Nov/11 Lead O/S

Effectively an onsight as I couldn't remember the sequence. Fairly desperate until you figure out how. Palms help.

with Colin Angus
victim of mathematics 18/Nov/11 2nd O/S

Tricky and thought provoking, but probably just about 5b once you've worked it out.

Andy Hardy 15/Oct/11 TR

Spanked on the lead - awkward bu66er!

Lumbering Oaf 07/Oct/11 2nd dog

HVS 5a sandbag

hotfeet 07/Oct/11 Lead

A tough number. A good route to finish off a great days climbing.

with Matthew
SteWatkins ?/Oct/11 -
buxtoncoffeelover ?/Oct/11 2nd
Stone Muppet 25/Sep/11 Lead O/S

Very height dependent surely?

with ah
Chris Craggs 28/Aug/11 2nd

Hold on the lip then move over left.

with Graham Parkes
Hidden 28/Aug/11 Lead O/S
JRae 07/Aug/11 -

Palmed out to the right hand jug to get stood up in the groove, didn't feel anywhere near 5c like that and went smoothly. We weren't sure if many spot it that way though?? Nice route.

with Zora, A Saul
Reaver2k 07/Aug/11 -
with JRae
ojp 30/Jul/11 Lead O/S

Foot near popped again, new route took some working out

with Dave
Dave Foster 30/Jul/11 2nd O/S
with Si
mark20 24/May/11 Lead O/S

Standard HVS 5b*.

Hidden 24/May/11 Lead O/S
SteveM 21/May/11 2nd
with Kat
kitkat78 21/May/11 Lead dnf

Finally a fall onto gear.. not sure it's helped me yet though.

with SteveM
dan_o_b ?/May/11 Lead O/S
JPGR 24/Apr/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 06/Apr/11 Lead O/S
ben_250 06/Apr/11 2nd
with Tom
disturbed_one51 13/Nov/10 Lead
with Wee man
Jonathan Hall 13/Nov/10 2nd
James Oswald 27/Oct/10 2nd RP

Hard. That move is damn hard. 5c IMO.

with James Rees
Stig 27/Oct/10 Lead O/S

VS 5c? Very elegant move.

with james oswald
philb 10/Oct/10 2nd O/S

with mark a realy good climb this one

derekb 10/Oct/10 2nd O/S
with Steve - PCC
James Oswald 02/Oct/10 Lead dnf

Couldn't commit to the move on lead in spite of being able to hold the hold. Tricky. Will return to slay this one.

with Neil R
AlexxelA ?/Oct/10 2nd O/S

Bit of a struggle but made it eventually. Weird moves required.

with Alex Williams
GrahamPlant 17/May/10 Lead
with Jamie Armatage
Hidden 15/May/10 2nd
Shauna 15/May/10 Lead O/S
with Sari
cem 09/May/10 Lead rpt
with Dave Amos
Strong Steve 03/Apr/10 Lead O/S
andymoin 28/Mar/10 2nd
with Mark Jarvie
James_D 30/Jan/10 Lead rpt
with Piers
handjammer ??/2010 -
jkarran 15/Nov/09 Lead

Quite tricky to find the right moves to get moving up the groove but ok once you do.

with Pete
petellis 15/Nov/09 2nd dog

Dunno how you climb this. Probably about V8

julian allen 16/Oct/09 Lead O/S
freudy_love 13/Oct/09 Lead β
with Jim Baird
andybuckley 31/May/09 TR

Eventually came up this after failing on Roof Route (bah, I will return.) The crux move - stepping up while pulling on the crap bulge - must be pretty scary on lead!

with Dave Williams
tommytwotone 03/May/09 Lead O/S
with Nigel
Mick r 29/Mar/09 Lead O/S

Rob put the clips in to the roof but could finish

with big Rob
Rob Davies 07/Mar/09 2nd dog

Not obvious what to do

with Neil Hyde, Phil Ashton
Hidden 01/Mar/09 2nd
Martin Haworth 18/Jan/09 Lead O/S

Tough for the grade

with Marek
aspyrex 18/Jan/09 2nd dog
with Martin Haworth
metal arms 10/Jan/09 Lead O/S
Hidden 05/Jan/09 Lead O/S
simonp ?/Jan/09 Lead O/S
with Kevin Bradbury
stephenhartley ??/2009 2nd
Richard P Coates 30/Dec/08 TR dnf
with Mac, ianjfsutcliffe
jimbobimbo ?/Dec/08 Lead
with Andy
SteveM 22/Nov/08 Lead O/S

Was previously rained off from the crux with Rich.

with Kat
kitkat78 22/Nov/08 2nd
with SteveM
richardhopton 18/Oct/08 Lead O/S
Paul Phillips - UKC and UKH 20/Jul/08 Solo O/S
tobydunford 11/Jul/08 2nd β
with Harry Martin
mel holmes 26/May/08 Lead
with Tony Reed
mel holmes 26/Apr/08 Lead O/S
with Tony Reed
cem ?/Mar/08 Lead rpt
with Luke Whiting
Hidden 10/Feb/08 Lead O/S
Hidden 09/Feb/08 Lead O/S
Hidden 05/Jan/08 Lead O/S
The old James turnbull ??/2008 Lead
The old James turnbull ??/2008 Lead
The old James turnbull ??/2008 Lead
daveagriff ??/2008 2nd
Hidden ??/2008 -
Andrew Sloan 23/Dec/07 Lead dog
Hidden 16/Dec/07 2nd dog
Andrew Sloan 01/Dec/07 Lead dog
The Reaper 11/Nov/07 Lead O/S
Peakpdr ?/Sep/07 Lead O/S
with paul
max_chan 20/May/07 Lead O/S
with Lou
Hidden 18/May/07 2nd rpt
Graeme Hammond 17/Mar/07 2nd O/S
with Tom Pascall
jimbobimbo 11/Mar/07 Lead dnf
with Steve
catt 05/Nov/06 Lead β
with Toby
SecretSquirrel 15/Oct/06 2nd
with jimbo
Iggy_B 02/May/06 Lead
with Nick
Mutl3y 02/May/06 2nd
with Iggy
Hidden 01/May/06 TR dnf
Hidden 29/Apr/06 2nd O/S
Hidden ??/2006 -
Jon Greengrass ??/2006 Lead dog
with reeeve
Nicos 05/Nov/05 Lead O/S
Mark A Humphries 12/Apr/05 Lead O/S
with gary wood
Stig ?/Aug/04 2nd dog

Desperate. Think a hold had recently come off.

with Charlie Reade-Jahn
r0b 11/Apr/04 2nd
with Andy Smith
Hidden ?/Mar/04 Lead O/S
Hidden 28/Sep/03 Lead
BelleVedere 23/Sep/03 2nd
with Lynn McDougall
Tim W 05/May/03 Lead
cem 12/Jan/03 Lead rpt
with Jonathan Astin
A Crook 12/Jun/02 TR
with Pat Boothman
Hidden ?/Jun/02 Lead
Hidden 16/Feb/02 Lead
cem 02/Feb/02 Lead dnf
with Rob Smithies, Graham Dolman
cem 02/Feb/02 2nd β
with Rob Smithies, Graham Dolman
Hidden 19/Jan/02 Lead
Hidden 27/May/01 Lead rpt
phardman 12/May/01 Lead O/S
handjammer ?/Aug/00 Lead O/S

I remember the crux move feeling quite strenuous and overall pretty hard for the grade - about the same difficulty as a VDiff at the Roaches!

Rich Malcolm 08/Apr/00 2nd O/S
with Ian Waterhouse
Boy ??/2000 -
Hidden 28/Aug/99 Lead
Chris Reid 02/Jan/99 Lead O/S
Billg ??/1998 Lead O/S
Roget 20/Sep/97 Lead rpt
with jon
Martin Bennett 20/Apr/97 -
with MT
Hidden 28/Mar/97 Lead
nickdonohue 08/Mar/97 Lead

very thought provoking - good fun

with Steve Corcoran, Dave Chapman
Hidden 20/May/95 Lead O/S
Daniel Wrightson 12/Mar/95 Lead O/S
with Elisabetta Marinai
rurp ??/1995 Lead O/S
craig h 09/Oct/94 2nd rpt
with Jim Mellor
Podling ?/Sep/94 2nd
charlesmfrench 16/Jan/94 2nd O/S
Roget 23/May/93 2nd O/S
with colin, baccy
Hidden 24/Apr/93 Lead
Hidden 14/Mar/93 2nd
Hidden 11/Apr/92 Lead
rob.grafton 10/Apr/92 Lead
with jim h, chris pugh, Bruce
craig h 27/May/91 Lead O/S
with Paul Braithwaite
Chris Ellis 18/May/91 2nd
with Martin Veale
goi.ashmore 19/May/90 Lead O/S
with Andy Joyce
Hidden 31/Mar/90 2nd
leathers ??/1990 -
Marti999 ??/1990 Lead
Andy Say 17/Oct/89 Solo O/S
malc 10/Sep/89 2nd
uphillnow ?/Feb/89 Lead O/S
Rob Davies 30/Mar/87 2nd
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High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
Votes cast 57
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
Votes cast 53
Votes cast 43
Style of ascent
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Flashed (β)
Not Set