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9m.

Rockfax Description
A traditional grit HVS, the enticing roof crack is as good and as hard as it looks. Getting your hands round the lip is okay, then the problems begin. Not one to learn the mystical art on! © Rockfax

FA. Joe Brown late 1950s.

Ticklists

ROCKFAX Eastern Grit (2006): Top 500, Burbage, Millstone and Beyond Routes Graded List, Eastern Grit Jamming, Peak Gritstone S-HVS **+, 50 cracks to Squamish, Thrutch and Clutch, Eastern Grit 2 star plus (HVS/VS/HS), Rivilin, Proper Cracks UK, Memorable Climbs, An attempt at a definitive list of Joe Brown's FA/FFA in the Peak District, Peak District Grit Graded List

Feedback

User Date Notes
Tom Randall - Lattice Training 21 Apr, 2007 Show βeta
βeta: Ace route - definitely one for the jamming fans. Much as I would love to say that it's E1, it's way too short and unsustained to be E1. Beta: Friend size 2.5 + left heel hook
 
Show beta
βeta: Ace route - definitely one for the jamming fans. Much as I would love to say that it's E1, it's way too short and unsustained to be E1. Beta: Friend size 2.5 + left heel hook
Fiend 22 Feb, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: As someone who loves hand-jamming, this was quite gnarly. Getting to the last move was easy and fun, but it's a gnarly battle to get stood up. Very dependent on hand size - would be easy with big hands and desperate with small ones.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: As someone who loves hand-jamming, this was quite gnarly. Getting to the last move was easy and fun, but it's a gnarly battle to get stood up. Very dependent on hand size - would be easy with big hands and desperate with small ones.
Ram MkiV 1 Aug, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Unless you really like this type of climb it'll feel E1. I found it harder than jeepers creepers - but lost less skin. left heel hook seemed to be the way forward.
 
Show beta
βeta: Unless you really like this type of climb it'll feel E1. I found it harder than jeepers creepers - but lost less skin. left heel hook seemed to be the way forward.
MeMeMe 1 Nov, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: Easier than Jeepers I thought, jams are very good. More painful though, if anyone finds large patch of skin in crack then it's probably mine.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Easier than Jeepers I thought, jams are very good. More painful though, if anyone finds large patch of skin in crack then it's probably mine.
Jon Greengrass 4 Oct, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: Need to work on my arms, jammed my along the roof and back 4 time but couldn' find the strength to pull through the lip.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Need to work on my arms, jammed my along the roof and back 4 time but couldn' find the strength to pull through the lip.
Garan 1 Sep, 2003 Show βeta
βeta: Good abrasive route. Harder than Jeepers Creepers.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Good abrasive route. Harder than Jeepers Creepers.
Chris Fitzhugh 24 Jun, 2003 Show βeta
βeta: Not for weak or unfit arms. Ideal for climbing wallers! - you have the strength. A good abrasive fight 25 years ago.Chris
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Not for weak or unfit arms. Ideal for climbing wallers! - you have the strength. A good abrasive fight 25 years ago.Chris
Nick Smith - Climbers 15 Jun, 2002 Show βeta
βeta: As a proud member of 'the climbing wall generation' ;) I really enjoyed this route and didn't think it was as hard as some people make out. Very solid jams under the roof, at the lip and above the lip. Good gear. Perfect!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: As a proud member of 'the climbing wall generation' ;) I really enjoyed this route and didn't think it was as hard as some people make out. Very solid jams under the roof, at the lip and above the lip. Good gear. Perfect!

Logged Ascents

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Voting
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
Votes cast 83
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
Votes cast 80
Votes cast 75
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Soloed
Alt Leads
Not Set
Onsighted
DNF
Dogged
Repeated
Redpoint
Ground Up
Flashed (β)
Not Set
Route of Interest

Brooks' Crack

Grade: HVS 5a ***
(Burbage South Edge)