Rockfax Description
A traditional grit HVS, the enticing roof crack is as good and as hard as it looks. Getting your hands round the lip is okay, then the problems begin. Not one to learn the mystical art on! © Rockfax

FA. Joe Brown late 1950s

Ticklists: ROCKFAX Eastern Grit (2006): Top 500, Burbage, Millstone and Beyond Routes Graded List, Eastern Grit Jamming, Peak Gritstone S-HVS **+, 50 cracks to Squamish, Thrutch and Clutch, Eastern Grit 2 star plus (HVS/VS/HS).

Michael Morrell 09/Dec/17 2nd dnf

Still cant climb roofs

Hidden ?/Nov/17 Lead
Cole Robertson 28/Oct/17 Lead O/S
with Alex
alanblyth 28/Oct/17 Lead dog

Great route, shame to not get it on first attempt, second try got a better jam committed it,

with Sachi
rowland penty 28/Oct/17 Lead RP
tom.wp6 20/Oct/17 Lead RP

Second try. Took my first proper fall on trad gear the first time! I blame the wet!

with Dan Akam
Keith Swainson 08/Oct/17 Lead O/S

Brilliant, but short lived. Exactly my kind of route.

Georgie25 08/Oct/17 2nd dog
Mike Hewitt 02/Oct/17 Lead dnf
George_Surf 19/Sep/17 Lead dnf

What a battle?! Easy to place the first cam in the roof and then move up to place another in the lip. Probably made the mistake of reaching really high and placing the blue dragon in the jam. Tried 3 times to get up it, got the heel on but couldn't get a high enough arm bar with my right hand to pull up. Fierce. Lowered off tired

Hidden 12/Sep/17 2nd O/S
Hidden 12/Sep/17 Lead dnf
ian d f 25/Aug/17 Lead O/S
with Pete H
devious wally 24/Apr/17 Lead dnf

Why can't I do it? Why? Why? Why?

mrphilipoldham 24/Apr/17 Lead G/U

Well that one put up quite the fight...

Hidden 18/Apr/17 Lead dnf
kermit_uk 15/Apr/17 Lead O/S

Steady away. Got a bit stuck turning the lip using a knee but jams are bomber so sorted myself out and stood up. 1 move wonder but fun!

Hidden 10/Apr/17 Lead
mrphilipoldham 28/Feb/17 Lead dnf

Brutal. Had a lovely(!) left arm jam above the lip but couldn't pull over to glory. Maybe it needs to be a right arm.. account opened.

devious wally 28/Feb/17 AltLd dnf

Arrghh so frustrated by this thing just can't quite get established above the roof. Next time, once the skin has grown back

gaz3212 12/Dec/16 2nd
Andypeak 12/Dec/16 Lead
will9911 04/Dec/16 Lead O/S
with tim
g1m147 27/Nov/16 2nd
with Mick.
Hidden 26/Nov/16 Lead RP
fuzzysheep01 13/Nov/16 2nd dog

An absolute brute. Thought my jamming had improved. Clearly not!

with Dave Rickerby , Ed Shaw
eduardo 13/Nov/16 Lead O/S

Get stuck in! A few moves on big hand jams. Easily protectable, and there is so much scope for jams, the gear doesn't get in the way of the hand placements.

with Dave R, fuzzysheep01
ashtond6 30/Oct/16 Lead

Think I down climbed from the crux a while back, onsight today

Hidden 30/Oct/16 Lead dnf
pete1993 28/Oct/16 Lead O/S

Pleased to get this, hard but reasonable when you get involved with the fight

with Shaun
James Oswald 25/Oct/16 Lead O/S


with Andy Moles
Andy Moles 25/Oct/16 2nd
with James Oswald
Lenny 22/Oct/16 Lead β
with James. D
mattlyons 22/Oct/16 Lead dnf
James Oakes 22/Oct/16 Lead O/S
with Matt Lyons, Lucy Bradbury, Harry Morrish
Mark Stevenson 09/Oct/16 Lead rpt
will_benfold 09/Oct/16 2nd dog

Having backed off the lead, I floundered on second too

will_benfold 09/Oct/16 Lead dnf
Martin Cooper 02/Oct/16 Lead rpt

Mark had put cams in.

with Nick
Nick Wallis 02/Oct/16 2nd dog


with Martin Cooper
tyho 23/Sep/16 Lead dnf
Remyveness 23/Sep/16 Lead dnf

Not normally one to log DNF's but this one will be memorable! What a great little route! Will be back with better jams to finish off the battle!

Mike505 04/Sep/16 Lead O/S

Great (and testing) fun, solid gear and very happy to manage it clean

1poundSOCKS 24/Jul/16 Lead O/S

Mind says: don't thrutch, you know what to do. Body says: Ah, just thrutch. Short lived fun, but lost my #2 Camelot in the roof. Hope somebody gets it out (you can have it, just don't like leaving a mess).

MrFantastic 01/May/16 Lead O/S
with Catherine
Hidden 01/May/16 2nd dnf
Flavio 23/Apr/16 Lead O/S
rajeshwarbisht 23/Apr/16 Lead dnf
with Flavio
benlatham07 25/Mar/16 Lead β
Droyd 23/Feb/16 Lead G/U

Second go - suck it owl

with Joe Mills
Stroppy 20/Feb/16 Lead dog
Sam Husband 20/Feb/16 Lead dnf

My hands hurt!

with Ed
Rob Gillespie 11/Oct/15 Lead O/S

A joe brown roof crack is about all that needs to be said!

atom 10/Oct/15 Lead dnf
Hidden 16/Aug/15 Lead dnf
Neal Jobling 24/Jun/15 2nd dnf

Well ard if like me you can't jam!

with Tony Flint
Sam McCarthy 09/Jun/15 Lead G/U
jimbonfire 07/Jun/15 2nd
spidey 07/Jun/15 Lead β
with Jimmy broomhead, mat lamb
Mattlamb90 07/Jun/15 Lead O/S

Screw the jam, put the heel on and locked through off the crimp

TomYates 06/Jun/15 2nd dog
cem 06/Jun/15 Lead dnf

All too sadly predictable: got myself in a mess by placing a cam in the best slot for a good jam, just as I was moving up over the roof

with Paddy Freer
Sam McCarthy 23/May/15 Lead dnf


James Lowe 23/May/15 2nd dnf

Tried it on second and almost got through the crux before the foot popped. Hand Jams just seem to slip out. Definite sandbag

with Tom Bennell, Sam M
Hidden 10/May/15 Lead dnf
Graeme Hammond 25/Apr/15 2nd rpt
Bradbury 25/Apr/15 Lead dnf
Jake Young 13/Apr/15 Lead O/S
with Nick
Nick1812P 12/Apr/15 2nd rpt
with Jake
OliverRoss 06/Apr/15 Lead dnf

Couldn't figure this one out, even when abbing to get gear.

with Ryan Baird
Hidden ?/Apr/15 Lead
andybirtwistle 25/Mar/15 Lead
keith Lonsdale 25/Mar/15 2nd
with Steve Clegg, Andy Birtwistle
MysteriousCeorl 20/Mar/15 Lead dnf

fell off...a lot

Jimbo C 07/Mar/15 2nd
with Olly
dr_botnik 05/Mar/15 Lead O/S


the power 05/Mar/15 Lead dnf

School hands

with rob
Andy Peak 1 07/Feb/15 Lead rpt

dont place the cam wer you want to put your fist

SJPowderham1 ??/2015 -
shaunhumphreys 05/Dec/14 Lead G/U

tried 3 times previously! alot of thrutching and poor technique! managed to not destroy my hands this time!

with Rory
Hidden 30/Nov/14 2nd dnf
bigdrew 19/Oct/14 2nd rpt
Rachel Slater 19/Oct/14 Lead O/S

Good, thrutchy HVS jamming.

giuly 19/Oct/14 2nd dog
with Chris Saunders
shaunhumphreys 22/Sep/14 Lead dnf
dom94 22/Sep/14 Lead G/U
with Clement
benkelsey 22/Sep/14 Lead dnf

3 goes, 3 fails.. je n'suis pas le grit wizard

with Shaun Humphreys
Nick1812P 09/Sep/14 Lead O/S
with Matt H
kyaizawa 16/Aug/14 Lead O/S
Emma Reynolds 16/Aug/14 2nd
charley 03/Aug/14 Lead G/U

Had fun on this, wasn't expecting to get up it really but it's a safe route to have a play on. Got it on my 3rd attempt...

with JackD
Jackwd 03/Aug/14 2nd
si_pro_83 26/Jul/14 2nd dnf
with Tubs
Hidden 26/Jul/14 2nd dnf
Tubs 26/Jul/14 Lead RP

Finally. What a battle. Very hand size dependent - mine are small so it was cupped hands at the crux.

with Simon P
Droyd 08/Apr/14 Lead dnf


Paul ablitt 16/Mar/14 Lead rpt
Hidden 09/Mar/14 Lead dnf
AshBash 09/Mar/14 Lead dnf
Hidden 09/Mar/14 Lead dnf
Rhys Macallister 08/Mar/14 Lead
Jonny Nick 08/Mar/14 Lead RP

Shame to not get the onsight but great route

PaulTanton 08/Mar/14 2nd O/S

Hard to make the rock over onto your left foot.

with Rhys McCallister, Bruce Woodley
Hidden 02/Mar/14 -
robertmctague ??/2014 Lead O/S
admackie 15/Dec/13 Lead
Hidden ?/Dec/13 Lead O/S
Si dH 30/Nov/13 2nd rpt
with Andy
bigdrew 30/Nov/13 Lead RP
with Si
amccann 13/Nov/13 Lead O/S
Teappleby 13/Nov/13 2nd
ashtond6 09/Nov/13 Lead dnf

in rain, never going to end well

Calum Wadsworth 06/Nov/13 Lead O/S

Did in the rain because it was mostly dry. Awesome route bit crazy for a warm up!

with Matt F
Matthew Ferrier 06/Nov/13 2nd O/S

Same sort of grade as Gehenna at Beacon Scar, feels unlikely at HVS to all but the most proficient jammers.

richyp 24/Sep/13 2nd

(severe climb - Not the overhang)

masa-alpin 21/Sep/13 Lead dnf

Tried the second time and I still could not even top out... Super hard.

with Nick B, Tim P
Hidden 21/Jul/13 2nd dnf
Hidden 01/Jun/13 Lead dnf
Hidden 27/May/13 Lead O/S
MPSBunny 12/May/13 Lead dnf

Managed to get up to the lip and gets good jams in, just couldn't pull on the heel hook! Absolutely shredded my hands.

Jimbo C 30/Apr/13 Lead β

Nobody I know has led this onsight. I had a few tries and slumps on one day last year. When you actually get the move right, it doesn't feel that hard or strenuous, just technical. One move wonder, so not sure about 3 stars, but it's an awesome move.

with Chris
DanielGyi 28/Apr/13 2nd dog
with Olli Crudge
Olli-C 28/Apr/13 Lead dog

3 falls? Strenuous, safe, good.

with Dan Gyi
David_Gledson 23/Apr/13 Lead O/S
with Alan
Brown 07/Apr/13 Lead
with Stu
Hidden 06/Apr/13 Lead O/S
Nick Rundall 02/Mar/13 Lead dnf
with Oli Charlesworth, Adam Youd
Hidden 18/Feb/13 Lead dog
thomaspomfrett 05/Jan/13 Lead dnf

Jams were solid through the roof and got the heel hook but couldn't establish myself on the face. I'll be back!

Hidden 01/Jan/13 2nd
Double Knee Bar 24/Nov/12 Lead dnf

Another 3* grit HVS onsight blown...

dannyboy83 25/Aug/12 Lead O/S
gazfellows 27/Jun/12 Lead

tried again, got well into the crack and on the lip, but couldn't pull the heel hook.... arrrrrr.. More bouldering, and back for another beating very soon ....

with Lara, Nic, Billy nic, steff
Ewan Russell 24/Jun/12 Lead O/S
ERH 24/Jun/12 2nd
disturbed_one51 02/Jun/12 Lead
with Wee man
Jonathan Hall 02/Jun/12 2nd
Hidden 23/May/12 2nd O/S
climbinmunkey 06/May/12 Lead dnf

Shouldn't have started this one! Was too tired but think I've got the numbers for next time.

with Helen
Andy Peak 1 04/May/12 -
with H washbrook
jonathanfield ?/May/12 -
Bry 15/Apr/12 2nd dog
with Paul
Paul Phillips - UKC and UKH 15/Apr/12 Lead O/S
Kirill 06/Apr/12 Lead O/S
Paul Baxter 06/Apr/12 2nd
with Kirill
masa-alpin 01/Apr/12 Lead dnf

I took many falls at the crux and finally gave up, being lowered down - sooo hard!

with Tony H
Dan Geh 31/Mar/12 Lead O/S

Best jamming crack i've done, sweet jams at the lip, then a tussle to get established. This is why I love grit!

tgeh 31/Mar/12 2nd O/S

Felt like such a beast pulling over the lip

with dan geh
SallyMay ?/Mar/12 TR dog

Could not get over roof so went left around it!

Tony Kartawick ??/2012 -
Tony Kartawick ??/2012 -
fatbuoybazza 27/Nov/11 Lead rpt

My new favourite route..

fatbuoybazza 19/Nov/11 Lead O/S

Excellent..seemed to end up sideways at one point.

with DaveP
jwpil 19/Nov/11 Lead rpt
with Ben
benscarter 19/Nov/11 2nd
with Jack
Hidden 29/Oct/11 Lead O/S
davewsargent 24/Oct/11 2nd dog
pie_eater_pete 24/Oct/11 Lead RP
cobweb 22/Oct/11 Lead O/S

Heel hook slipped off leaving me hanging on 2 vertical jams , got foot back on then laughed the way to top. Fab !

with martyn hopson
SteWatkins ?/Oct/11 -
J.Wells 22/Sep/11 2nd β
Matt Cooke 22/Sep/11 Lead O/S
with Jon Wells
JRae 07/Aug/11 -

Put in a high cam and blocked perfect height jams for just after the rock over. Whoops... Move felt really nice and just went, was expecting it to be strenuous but it wasnt!

with A Saul
ChrisBrooke 07/Aug/11 Lead rpt
with Andy Houseman, Duncan Bell
Reaver2k 07/Aug/11 -
with JRae
ojp 30/Jul/11 2nd
with Dave
Dave Foster 30/Jul/11 Lead O/S

Feel like a superstar cutting loose on hand jams and throwing in a heel hook. Great fun.

with Si
Cake 29/May/11 Lead O/S

Ha ha, what a route. Tricky for feet

Hidden 24/May/11 Lead O/S
Deezel65 16/May/11 2nd O/S
dan_o_b ?/May/11 2nd O/S
Hidden 16/Apr/11 2nd O/S
Hidden 16/Apr/11 Lead O/S
Jim Brownlow 16/Apr/11 2nd dnf
liamoloughlin 09/Apr/11 Lead O/S

Feels easier than it looks!

tebs 19/Mar/11 Lead dnf

Didn't summon the required oomph - needs a fighting mentality. a tough tough route, more painful than pumpy. I'll be back with more aggression.

with Tom Danger, Ross
alasdair19 ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 -
thomasadixon 30/Sep/10 Lead O/S

Stupidly put a cam in high and blocked my jams making it harder than it needed to be...felt nails but then I don't jam!

with Becca
Hidden 26/Sep/10 Lead
Hidden 04/Sep/10 Lead
mark20 29/Jul/10 Lead O/S


stephenhartley ?/Jul/10 Lead O/S
Si dH 28/Apr/10 Lead β

Finally. Flashed it today after two failed attempts in years past.

with Chris Foster
Hidden 28/Apr/10 Lead dnf
Hidden 24/Apr/10 2nd
Hidden 23/Apr/10 Lead O/S
jwpil 11/Apr/10 2nd β
with Gordon
Hidden 11/Apr/10 2nd dog
gordonday 11/Apr/10 Lead O/S
with Jack
david morse 06/Apr/10 Lead O/S

Excellent fun!

with ric
Hidden 06/Apr/10 2nd O/S
31770 28/Mar/10 2nd dog

bad elbows and a lack of commitment didn't help. make sure the gear doesn't block the best jams and work on hip flexibility.

with Richard Draisy
gazfellows 27/Mar/10 Lead dnf
disturbed_one51 13/Mar/10 Lead dog

Ouch! Tried to crack this one out at the end of the day (mistake). one move wonder but its a daunting move it spat me out the first few tries. I found the trick in the end was to lunge and get a right hand jam in as high as possible instead of the nicer lower jam because i just couldn't rock onto my left foot when it was lower. Awesome fun though, i think my skin hates me. At least i didnt rest on gear, only fell on it!

katyvose1 ??/2010 -
Ollie B 09/Dec/09 Lead
Karl Wooffindin 15/Nov/09 Lead O/S

Top draw route.

with Ollie Hemstock
Hidden 15/Nov/09 Lead O/S
Graeme Hammond 25/Oct/09 Lead O/S

Brilliant. Really nice fairly easy jams and a rockover (just a bit strenuous rather than technical) From the hype I was expecting a epic battle, but was slightly disappointed it gave it self away without, far from E1. Only thing it lacks is a start to match, like being positioned on the top of the near by Altar Crack.

with Rob
Hidden 03/Oct/09 Lead
Hidden 22/Sep/09 Lead dog
deacondeacon 19/Jul/09 Lead RP

Two cams in break then go for it. Took a lob off it then climbed it clean. Brilliant route.

andybuckley 31/May/09 Lead dnf

Blimey. Got out to the lip on lead but no further. Tried Groove ROute instead, but got stuck on the crux. Then top-roped RR, getting to the heel hook with high jam but couldn't go further thanks to the rope in the crack. Knackered!

with Dave Williams
Reaver2k 09/May/09 Lead O/S

Happy with this, a Hur/Ter-iffic battle! Had a right battle with this! It had started raining (for the first time..) walked up to the roof, placed a couple of bomber medium cams and swung out to the lip, right foot out left, left foot hook right over the lip. Then twist turn and gurn trying to get onto my left foot, slamming in awful baggy handjams into the crack above until I got a semi useful one I could pull and push away from to get over my left foot! Great fun, gritstone brutality at its best!

Dan 85 09/May/09 2nd dog


with Alan
Hidden 12/Apr/09 Lead rpt
Hidden 30/Mar/09 Lead
Hidden 09/Mar/09 Lead O/S
Rob Davies 07/Mar/09 2nd dog

Nightmares are made of this

with Phil Ashton, Neil Hyde
Hidden 06/Mar/09 Lead dog
Hidden 06/Mar/09 Lead dnf
Martin Haworth 18/Jan/09 Lead dnf


with Marek
Hidden 28/Aug/08 2nd dog
Mark Stevenson 22/Aug/08 Lead O/S
with not seconded
joe larner ?/Aug/08 Lead O/S
with Matt
Hidden 04/Apr/08 Lead O/S
Hidden 02/Mar/08 Lead O/S
Hidden 10/Feb/08 2nd dog
DavidR 10/Feb/08 Lead dog
Hidden 09/Feb/08 Lead O/S
The old James turnbull ??/2008 Lead
The old James turnbull ??/2008 Lead
The old James turnbull ??/2008 Lead
Hidden ??/2008 -
DannyK 19/Dec/07 2nd dog

Solid jamming!

with pep
feilx 16/Dec/07 Lead O/S
with Phil Davis
Andrew Sloan 01/Dec/07 Lead dnf

HVS for Joe Brown; E2 for mere mortals.

Andrew Barker ?/Dec/07 Lead O/S

Very little bleeding, just treated it more like a boulder problem than a route.

with Chunk
Peakpdr 04/Nov/07 Lead
climbingpixie 03/Nov/07 Lead dnf
with SecretSquirrel
SteveM 13/Oct/07 Lead O/S
with Paul & Bruce
Hidden 03/Oct/07 Lead
al99 ?/Oct/07 Lead O/S
martinazando ?/Oct/07 2nd O/S
WB 16/Sep/07 Lead O/S
with Guy
Hidden 18/May/07 Lead dnf
stevo smith 08/Apr/07 Lead dog

Fell on going over the roof on an OS Lead... Got to top in the end!

DavidEvans 01/Apr/07 Lead O/S
with Ben VK, Phil Woodhead, Jo Owen
Hidden 13/Jan/07 Lead
Pete Graham ??/2007 Lead O/S
Rob Kennard ??/2007 -
Hidden 02/Dec/06 Lead
Hidden 15/Oct/06 Lead rpt
adam carless 15/Oct/06 TR dog

A hand knackering, arm pumping, crotch mashing horrorshow. Congrats to Nick for leading this one.

Rampikino 13/Oct/06 Lead
with MMC Various
Hidden 30/Sep/06 TR dnf
Hidden 01/May/06 TR dnf
Lev 29/Apr/06 Lead rpt
mel holmes 30/Jan/06 Lead O/S
Hidden 22/Jan/06 2nd
Hidden ??/2006 -
Jon Greengrass ??/2006 Lead dnf
with reeeve
Hidden ??/2006 Lead dnf
Nicos 05/Nov/05 Lead O/S
Ram MkiV 17/Jul/05 Lead O/S

tonked it. What a route. well more like a boulder problem really since the gear's so good & easy to put in and the starts just a scramble up. felt like a good E1 tussle to me.

with Alex Mason
Hidden ??/2005 2nd
ukb & bmc shark 31/Oct/04 Lead O/S
with Jon Winter
MeMeMe ?/Oct/04 Lead dog
Lev 02/May/04 Lead dog

Had to take a rest as going over the lip, very strenuous.

with Andrew Bitmead
Ropeboy 12/Apr/04 Lead


Hidden ?/Feb/04 Lead O/S
Hidden 28/Sep/03 Lead rpt
five ?/Apr/03 Lead O/S
with TW
Hidden ?/Jun/02 2nd dnf
Hidden ?/Jun/02 Lead O/S
Hidden 16/Dec/01 Lead
Hidden 27/Oct/01 2nd
Hidden 27/May/01 2nd rpt
dan gibson ??/2000 Lead
with helen gibson
Boy ??/2000 -
tuftynick ??/2000 Lead
Hidden 31/Oct/99 Lead
Chris Reid 09/Jan/99 Lead O/S
Hidden 05/Jul/98 Lead O/S
Hidden 13/Apr/98 Lead rpt
kato'sdad 16/Feb/98 TR
RobSimmo 16/Feb/98 TR dnf
Hidden 08/Jul/97 Solo
SR1970 ?/Sep/96 Lead O/S
uphillnow 08/May/96 Lead O/S

With C Bolton?

nokishatov 01/Jun/95 Lead O/S
ste_d 01/Jun/95 2nd O/S
with mik
Roget 13/May/95 Lead O/S
with jon
craig h 09/Oct/94 2nd O/S
with Luke Steer
charlesmfrench 16/Jan/94 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/1993 Lead O/S
Hidden 18/Oct/92 2nd rpt
roncaves 12/May/92 2nd
with John Foster, James Thomas
Hidden 11/Apr/92 Lead dnf
rob.grafton 10/Apr/92 2nd
with jim h, chris pugh, Bruce
Hidden 07/Dec/91 Lead O/S
goi.ashmore 27/Oct/91 Lead O/S
with Phil Bent
Hidden ?/Oct/91 Lead dog
NickJH ?/Sep/91 2nd dog
with D Picker
IanHazzard 22/May/91 Lead O/S
Marti999 ??/1990 Lead
Hidden 13/Sep/87 Lead
Neil McA 31/Jul/86 Lead O/S
with Burt Levy, Martin Wilson, Tom Lewis
Tom V ??/1983 -
Chris Craggs ??/1980 Lead
clanger ??/1972 -
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High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
Votes cast 76
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
Votes cast 74
Votes cast 69
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Ground Up
Not Set