The woods are owned and managed for low volume timber extraction (mostly birch). The new owner (as of 2023) has no objection to climbing along the length of the edge. However, the following is expected of all visiting climbers:
Dates: 1 March to 30 June
Reason: Nesting Birds
Tawny owls sometimes nest on the crag in the spring (previously on Kremlin Crack or Roof Route) - if present avoid the route(s) they are occupying until the nest is vacated.
Tawny owls have been known to viciously attack people climbing near their nest, so please steer well clear of these routes until the chicks have fledged, both for the benefit of the birds and your own wellbeing.
Rockfax Description
The pleasant shallow groove left of the jutting roof via a short boulder problem sequence. Despite its brevity, it is hard for HVS and hard for 5 b! © Rockfax
FA. Bill Briggs 1976.
ROCKFAX Eastern Grit (2006): Top 500 , Burbage, Millstone and Beyond Routes Graded List , Peak District Gritstone: Graham Hoey's Best Routes for Moving on to E1
User | Date | Notes | ||
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AliWardrope | 13 Apr |
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βeta: Kestrel nesting on roof route again, please avoid til end of July | βeta? | |
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βeta: Kestrel nesting on roof route again, please avoid til end of July |
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Guy Atkinson | 1 May, 2022 |
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βeta: Kestrel nest in the middle of the route, avoid for a while. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Kestrel nest in the middle of the route, avoid for a while. |
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Jon Greengrass | 4 Oct, 2004 |
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βeta: perplexing indeed, gear is indeed good (i tested it), but strenuous to place and be careful not to block up a crucial hold in its entirety. | βeta? | |
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βeta: perplexing indeed, gear is indeed good (i tested it), but strenuous to place and be careful not to block up a crucial hold in its entirety. |
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Nick Smith - Climbers | 15 Jun, 2002 |
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βeta: Quite perplexing near the top, although with some effort reasonable gear placements can be found. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Quite perplexing near the top, although with some effort reasonable gear placements can be found. |
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Grade: HVS 5a ***
(Rivelin Edge)