Rockfax Description
1) 6a, 2) 5c, 3) 5c, 4) 4b, 5) 4b, 6) 5a, 7) 4b, 8) 6a.
The route crosses the main cascade (in-situ tat) and isn't a great idea too early in the season but very popular in the high season and it can get a bit clogged. A more direct version of P5 has a 5c move on it.
Descent - Abseil anchors are located at the belay at the top of P8. Don't try and abseil back down the route. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
5c+, 5c, 5c+, 4b, 5c+, 5a, 4b, 6a.
The route crosses 2 waterfalls; the first of which has insitu tat usually which helps to avoid getting too damp!
Abseil anchors are located at the belay at the top of p8.
Sylvain, J M Cambon 1992.
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Niki Ste | 28 Jul |
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βeta: Very well bolted now. 16 bolts in P1 sets the tone. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Very well bolted now. 16 bolts in P1 sets the tone. |
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| lilpeach | 29 Aug, 2024 |
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βeta: New cord on the waterfall traverse | βeta? | |
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βeta: New cord on the waterfall traverse |
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| Meekopeeko | 18 Jun, 2024 |
Show βeta
βeta: Got to the waterfall but the current was too strong to safely cross. We had lunch up there and abseiled down. The second lowering point from the bottom you think you can skip with long enough rope. Don’t. Our 60m rope got caught in a tree in the crevasse leading to a dodgy attempt at getting it back and it became clear why there was an extra lowering point. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Got to the waterfall but the current was too strong to safely cross. We had lunch up there and abseiled down. The second lowering point from the bottom you think you can skip with long enough rope. Don’t. Our 60m rope got caught in a tree in the crevasse leading to a dodgy attempt at getting it back and it became clear why there was an extra lowering point. |
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| petecallaghan | 6 Jul, 2023 |
Show βeta
βeta: It seems there's been some changes to the anchors and the current rockfax Topo is a bit misleading. The 5c headwall of p2 has an anchor at the base. I ignored that and continued to the anchor above, about 10m below the top of the headwall, and reached the end of my 60m ropes. The next anchor is only about 10m above. It would have made more sense to belay after the easy walk from the top of p1, at the base of the headwall, and climb past the next anchor to belay at the top, just before the leftwards traverse to cross the waterfall. There's no rope or tat to protect the waterfall crossing, so I left a couple of joined slings on each side for my second. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: It seems there's been some changes to the anchors and the current rockfax Topo is a bit misleading. The 5c headwall of p2 has an anchor at the base. I ignored that and continued to the anchor above, about 10m below the top of the headwall, and reached the end of my 60m ropes. The next anchor is only about 10m above. It would have made more sense to belay after the easy walk from the top of p1, at the base of the headwall, and climb past the next anchor to belay at the top, just before the leftwards traverse to cross the waterfall. There's no rope or tat to protect the waterfall crossing, so I left a couple of joined slings on each side for my second. |
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| RobScarisbrick | 12 Jun, 2022 |
Show βeta
βeta: Best use the ab at the last belay | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Best use the ab at the last belay |
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Logged Ascents
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Sector 7 Route 7
Grade: 6a ***
(Rocher du Bez)