Rockfax Description
1) 5c, 2) 5c, 3) 5c, 4) 6a, 5) 6a+, 6) 6b, 7) 5a.
A climb of sustained interest throughout and finishing on a proper summit. Some find the 6a+ pitch harder than crux plus the bolts are a bit spaced by Ailefroide standards on first three pitches - a light rack might help.
Descent - Abseil down the face to the left of the climb in four rope lengths. 2x50m ropes minimum. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
Pitches are 5c, 5c+, 5c+, 6a, 6a+, 6b, 5a
Gerard Fiaschi, JM Cambon 2000.
User | Date | Notes | ||
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dinodinosaur | 20 Jul |
Show βeta
βeta: It's quite disingenuous to give P6 6b as it's really only 6a+ comparing with other routes in the area like Darkvador and the previous pitch. On one hand the grade could put off potential leaders who would absolutely love this route and on the other hand thinking that you can do 6b if you onsight that pitch could land you in trouble elsewhere. Regardless of the grade it's an absolutely fantastic pitch and route! | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: It's quite disingenuous to give P6 6b as it's really only 6a+ comparing with other routes in the area like Darkvador and the previous pitch. On one hand the grade could put off potential leaders who would absolutely love this route and on the other hand thinking that you can do 6b if you onsight that pitch could land you in trouble elsewhere. Regardless of the grade it's an absolutely fantastic pitch and route! |
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GGD | 2 Jun, 2019 |
Show βeta
βeta: Sustained interest throughout, although last pitch is a bit of a gimmie at 5b. Thought the 6a+ pitch was harder than crux pitch. Bolts are spaced by Ailiefroide standards on first three pitches, first especially. Prospective leaders would want to be climbing Ailefroide 6a to get through this comfortably, P1-3 not easily aidable at A0. | ||
Show beta
βeta: Sustained interest throughout, although last pitch is a bit of a gimmie at 5b. Thought the 6a+ pitch was harder than crux pitch. Bolts are spaced by Ailiefroide standards on first three pitches, first especially. Prospective leaders would want to be climbing Ailefroide 6a to get through this comfortably, P1-3 not easily aidable at A0. |
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Grade: 6b ***
(Petits Goulets)