The normal route from the Klein Matterhorn station. Mostly straightforward steep snow, but there are crevasses, and the final few metres can be very steep. Threatened by avalanches in certain conditions. Finishes along a fine snow crest to the top.

Iggy_B 15/Aug/17 -
with Tatsu
Baru Miko 18/Jul/17 Lead
Pero 17/Jul/17 -
atthedropofahat 22/Aug/16 AltLd O/S

Good climbing although roughly half way up the face a 20m wide patch of bullet hard ice below the main search demanded ice screws, with knots in the rope this delayed us while belaying and removing them. The bergshrund presented no difficulty. High winds gusting up to 60mph had created windslab 2cm thick on higher slopes and sharpened the ridge depositing loose snow on the windward side. Avalanches were heard after we crossed the bergshrund. Various guided groups retreated. We chose not to descend this route due to objective danger. The next day we noticed that a newer track moves left around the serac avoiding the icy patch mentioned.

tsl42 11/Aug/16 Lead

Descent from not quite the top.

with Ursa Krenk, Chris Damm
Hidden 18/Jul/16 AltLd
Robertspd2 13/Jul/16 AltLd
Hidden 10/Sep/15 -
prwalker 10/Sep/15 -
with wupert
Hidden 10/Sep/15 -
Steven Andrews 09/Sep/15 -
with Harry
Harry Ellis 09/Sep/15 -
with Chris Cox, Steven Andrews
Rich Malcolm 10/Aug/15 -
with Till Kramann, Rebecca Brennan, Matt Brennan
AdamH 06/Aug/15 -

Combined with Pollux. Quite icy - we used a couple of ice screw placements

Hidden 14/Apr/15 -
humptydumpty ??/2015 -
EuanM 02/Sep/14 -
Keenb 12/Aug/14 -
with Simon Oliver, Alec Carr
android_lloyd ?/Aug/14 -

After an ascent of Pollux. Thankfully snow stayed firm. Nice summit ridge but not long enough! A memorable day, supping on a cup of soup before the haul back to Klein Matterhorn

Tom Packer ?/Aug/14 -

Bit of a plod. Best part was hot soup at the base, before the walk back to Klein Matterhorn.

Simnel 05/Jul/14 AltLd
with Andy L, Rog B, steve r
picasso 01/Sep/13 -
MSchobitz 30/Aug/13 -
with Papa
streapadair 21/Aug/13 Solo

From Val d'Ayas Hut, 05.45, summit 08.00, all good.

jandyd05 19/Aug/13 AltLd O/S
with Giles Ruck
R_W_M 17/Aug/13 -
with Duncan
SteveK 14/Aug/13 AltLd
Nigel R Lewis 14/Aug/13 AltLd
with Steve Kedward
7toes 08/Aug/13 -
with DrewB
d80f0u 30/Jul/13 2nd
with Oscar
caradoc 13/Jul/13 -

I thought I had done the WNW Flank route from the K. Matterhorn, hmmm. Just under 6 hours to and from the station, the return slog across the glacier was exhausting on slushy snow. Memorable arete on last fifty metres to the summit.

with nick yapp
froglette 08/Jul/13 AltLd

moved together

with John Proudfoot
67hours 01/Jul/13 -
with Becky H
Hidden ?/Jul/13 -
sanguine ?/Jul/13 Lead O/S
with Jon Wichett
Hidden ?/Jul/13 -
Hidden ??/2013 -
Hidden 17/Sep/12 -
wendynicholls 23/Jul/12 -
with Kirsty Marsden, Dan Slome, Thomas Pomfrett
thomaspomfrett 23/Jul/12 -
with Wendy Nicholls, Kirsty Marsden, Dan Slome
Hidden ?/Jul/12 Lead O/S
mattgrange 29/Jun/12 -

A bit late, in softening snow, spectacular summit ridge

AlasdairM 29/Aug/11 -
hokkyokusei 22/Jul/11 -
with Bernadette, Jonathan
wildrover220 12/Jul/11 Lead O/S
sj87 11/Jul/11 -
industrialiceman 01/Jul/11 -
Hidden 25/Aug/10 AltLd
MSchobitz ?/Aug/10 -
with Papa
Binder ?/Jun/10 -
with Chris L
markshaf ??/2010 Lead
with Tom Esser, Raymond McCourt
GiveHerHelen 05/Aug/09 2nd O/S
Jonny M 05/Aug/09 Lead O/S
Simon Baker 17/Jul/09 -
bengillies 11/Jul/09 -
Slick ?/Jul/09 -
Hidden 21/Aug/08 AltLd
Only a hill 06/Aug/08 AltLd O/S

As part of a knackering day, all the way over to Lyskamm. We climbed Castor twice! Brilliant to have the mountain to ourselves the first time, and see the dawn from the summit.

with James Roddie
JamesRoddie ?/Aug/08 -
with Alex Roddie
abbeywall 08/Jul/08 -
with K
JezzaCat ?/Jul/08 -

Straightforward climb from Guide D'Ayas hut in great conditions - clear sky & no wind.

with Paul
Gareth T ?/Jun/08 Lead O/S

Bit scary on a couple of steep steps near the top.

with Gethin Howells
Jim Brooke ?/Aug/07 -
with Alex Robbins, Pete Walsham, Malcolm
Only a hill ?/Jul/07 -
with James Roddie
johnjb 09/Aug/06 -
Hidden 31/Jul/06 -
The Ivanator ?/Jul/06 -
MoWalker3 01/Aug/05 -
with PaulC
AdamCB ?/Aug/05 -

With Caroline Ogden

davidellis53 ??/2005 -
colinakmc ?/Jul/04 2nd
Hidden 21/Jul/03 2nd
Dom Goodwin 09/Aug/96 -

Dodgy snow conditions - like granules of sugar on top of hard ice, rather worrying!

with Michael, Peter
1 users have this on their wishlist
High PD+
Mid PD+
Low PD+
High PD
Mid PD
Low PD
High PD-
Mid PD-
Low PD-
Votes cast 7
Votes cast 6
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Not Set