The normal route from the Klein Matterhorn station. Mostly straightforward steep snow, but there are crevasses, and the final few metres can be very steep. Threatened by avalanches in certain conditions. Finishes along a fine snow crest to the top.

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Logged Ascents

User Date Style Notes & Partners
JonLongshanks 12 Sep 2nd O/S Monster walk in the day before with heavy bags , but very scenic. I've decided huts are worth the money. First up the route breaking trail, some spicy ice half way up and a good steep step to top out onto the ridge. Rachel managed to fall down a crevasse on the way up, just to waist! The summit ridge was mind-blowing and fantastic, first time I've done anything like that. First 4000er
Monster walk in the day before with heavy bags , but very scenic. I've decided huts are worth the money. First up the route breaking trail, some spicy ice half way up and a good steep step to top out onto the ridge. Rachel managed to fall down a crevasse on the way up, just to waist! The summit ridge was mind-blowing and fantastic, first time I've done anything like that. First 4000er
Audrey LeGrand 30 Aug -
with SJames
with SJames
Hidden 30 Aug -
Pero 22 Aug -
Hidden 19 Jul AltLd
Hidden 1 Jul -
Hidden 21 Apr Lead O/S
Bobby Pearson 31 Mar Solo dnf Excellent acclimatisation day at altitude today. Skied from the Klein Matterhorn lift station to the West face of Castor, where I swapped skis for crampons. Managed to get half up the face (100 vertical meters from the top) but the ice was bullet hard and although going up would have been achievable solo, the descent would have been much tricker. In the end I abbed off a V thread and skied back to Zermatt. Weather was amazing and avalanche risk was low. Overall a hard day and legs are feeling it.
Excellent acclimatisation day at altitude today. Skied from the Klein Matterhorn lift station to the West face of Castor, where I swapped skis for crampons. Managed to get half up the face (100 vertical meters from the top) but the ice was bullet hard and although going up would have been achievable solo, the descent would have been much tricker. In the end I abbed off a V thread and skied back to Zermatt. Weather was amazing and avalanche risk was low. Overall a hard day and legs are feeling it.
Pete23 10 Sep, 2018 AltLd Great narrow ridge at top to summit.
with Gareth
Great narrow ridge at top to summit.
with Gareth
neal 7 Sep, 2018 AltLd Acclimatisation day. Pollux then Castor, from the Rossi bivi hut. Very fine final snow ridge. Bergschrund fairly easy to pass. Some fresh snow overnight, and some soft slab in places but no propagation. Back to bivi hut.
with Stuart Mcleod
Acclimatisation day. Pollux then Castor, from the Rossi bivi hut. Very fine final snow ridge. Bergschrund fairly easy to pass. Some fresh snow overnight, and some soft slab in places but no propagation. Back to bivi hut.
with Stuart Mcleod
Hidden 28 Aug, 2018 -
Hidden 21 Aug, 2018 -
Iggy_B 15 Aug, 2017 -
with Tatsu
with Tatsu
Hidden 3 Aug, 2017 AltLd
Baru Miko 18 Jul, 2017 Lead
Pero 17 Jul, 2017 -
sammyblack 22 Aug, 2016 AltLd
Hidden 22 Aug, 2016 AltLd O/S
tsl42 11 Aug, 2016 Lead Descent from not quite the top.
with Ursa Krenk, Dammage
Descent from not quite the top.
with Ursa Krenk, Dammage
Hidden 18 Jul, 2016 AltLd
Robertspd2 13 Jul, 2016 AltLd
Hidden 10 Sep, 2015 -
prwalker 10 Sep, 2015 -
with wupert
with wupert
nation1 10 Sep, 2015 -
with Chris Cope
with Chris Cope
Steven Andrews 9 Sep, 2015 -
with Harry
with Harry
Harry Ellis 9 Sep, 2015 -
with Chris Cox, Steven Andrews
with Chris Cox, Steven Andrews
Rich Malcolm 10 Aug, 2015 -
with Till Kramann, Rebecca Brennan, Matt Brennan
with Till Kramann, Rebecca Brennan, Matt Brennan
AdamH 6 Aug, 2015 - Combined with Pollux. Quite icy - we used a couple of ice screw placements
Combined with Pollux. Quite icy - we used a couple of ice screw placements
Hidden 14 Apr, 2015 -
humptydumpty ??, 2015 -
EuanM 2 Sep, 2014 -
Keenb 12 Aug, 2014 -
with Simon Oliver, Alec Carr
with Simon Oliver, Alec Carr
adventure_vulture ?Aug, 2014 - After an ascent of Pollux. Thankfully snow stayed firm. Nice summit ridge but not long enough! A memorable day, supping on a cup of soup before the haul back to Klein Matterhorn
After an ascent of Pollux. Thankfully snow stayed firm. Nice summit ridge but not long enough! A memorable day, supping on a cup of soup before the haul back to Klein Matterhorn
Tom Packer ?Aug, 2014 - Bit of a plod. Best part was hot soup at the base, before the walk back to Klein Matterhorn.
Bit of a plod. Best part was hot soup at the base, before the walk back to Klein Matterhorn.
Simnel 5 Jul, 2014 AltLd
with Andy L, Rog B, steve r
with Andy L, Rog B, steve r
picasso 1 Sep, 2013 -
MSchobitz 30 Aug, 2013 -
with Papa
with Papa
streapadair 21 Aug, 2013 Solo From Val d'Ayas Hut, 05.45, summit 08.00, all good.
From Val d'Ayas Hut, 05.45, summit 08.00, all good.
jandyd05 19 Aug, 2013 AltLd O/S
with Giles Ruck
with Giles Ruck
R_W_M 17 Aug, 2013 -
with Duncan
with Duncan
SteveK 14 Aug, 2013 AltLd
Nigel R Lewis 14 Aug, 2013 AltLd
with Steve Kedward
with Steve Kedward
7toes 8 Aug, 2013 -
with DrewB
with DrewB
d80f0u 30 Jul, 2013 2nd
with Oscar
with Oscar
caradoc 13 Jul, 2013 - I thought I had done the WNW Flank route from the K. Matterhorn, hmmm. Just under 6 hours to and from the station, the return slog across the glacier was exhausting on slushy snow. Memorable arete on last fifty metres to the summit.
with nick yapp
I thought I had done the WNW Flank route from the K. Matterhorn, hmmm. Just under 6 hours to and from the station, the return slog across the glacier was exhausting on slushy snow. Memorable arete on last fifty metres to the summit.
with nick yapp
froglette 8 Jul, 2013 AltLd moved together
with John Proudfoot
moved together
with John Proudfoot
67hours 1 Jul, 2013 -
with Becky H
with Becky H
Hidden ?Jul, 2013 -
sanguine ?Jul, 2013 Lead O/S
with Jon Wichett
with Jon Wichett
Hidden ?Jul, 2013 -
Hidden ??, 2013 -
Hidden 17 Sep, 2012 -
wendynicholls 23 Jul, 2012 -
with Kirsty Marsden, Dan Slome, thomaspomfrett
with Kirsty Marsden, Dan Slome, thomaspomfrett
thomaspomfrett 23 Jul, 2012 -
with Wendy Nicholls, Kirsty Marsden, Dan Slome
with Wendy Nicholls, Kirsty Marsden, Dan Slome
Hidden ?Jul, 2012 Lead O/S
mattgrange 29 Jun, 2012 - A bit late, in softening snow, spectacular summit ridge
A bit late, in softening snow, spectacular summit ridge
AlasdairM 29 Aug, 2011 -
hokkyokusei 22 Jul, 2011 -
with Bernadette, Jonathan
with Bernadette, Jonathan
wildrover220 12 Jul, 2011 Lead O/S
sj87 11 Jul, 2011 -
industrialiceman 1 Jul, 2011 -
Hidden 25 Aug, 2010 AltLd
MSchobitz ?Aug, 2010 -
with Papa
with Papa
Binder ?Jun, 2010 -
with Chris L
with Chris L
markshaf ??, 2010 Lead
with Tom Esser, Raymond McCourt
with Tom Esser, Raymond McCourt
GiveHerHelen 5 Aug, 2009 2nd O/S
with Jonny M
with Jonny M
Jonny M 5 Aug, 2009 Lead O/S
Simon Baker 17 Jul, 2009 -
bengillies 11 Jul, 2009 -
Slick ?Jul, 2009 -
Hidden 21 Aug, 2008 AltLd
Only a hill 6 Aug, 2008 AltLd O/S As part of a knackering day, all the way over to Lyskamm. We climbed Castor twice! Brilliant to have the mountain to ourselves the first time, and see the dawn from the summit.
with James Roddie
As part of a knackering day, all the way over to Lyskamm. We climbed Castor twice! Brilliant to have the mountain to ourselves the first time, and see the dawn from the summit.
with James Roddie
JamesRoddie ?Aug, 2008 -
with Alex Roddie
with Alex Roddie
abbeywall 8 Jul, 2008 -
with K
with K
JezzaCat ?Jul, 2008 - Straightforward climb from Guide D'Ayas hut in great conditions - clear sky & no wind.
with Paul
Straightforward climb from Guide D'Ayas hut in great conditions - clear sky & no wind.
with Paul
Gareth T ?Jun, 2008 Lead O/S Bit scary on a couple of steep steps near the top.
with Gethin Howells
Bit scary on a couple of steep steps near the top.
with Gethin Howells
Jim Brooke ?Aug, 2007 -
with Alex Robbins, Pete Walsham, Malcolm
with Alex Robbins, Pete Walsham, Malcolm
Only a hill ?Jul, 2007 -
with James Roddie
with James Roddie
johnjb 9 Aug, 2006 -
Hidden 31 Jul, 2006 -
The Ivanator ?Jul, 2006 -
MoWalker3 1 Aug, 2005 -
with PaulC
with PaulC
Hidden ?Aug, 2005 -
davidellis53 ??, 2005 -
colinakmc ?Jul, 2004 2nd
Hannah V 21 Jul, 2003 2nd
with Brede Arkless
with Brede Arkless
Dom Goodwin 9 Aug, 1996 - Dodgy snow conditions - like granules of sugar on top of hard ice, rather worrying!
with Michael, Peter
Dodgy snow conditions - like granules of sugar on top of hard ice, rather worrying!
with Michael, Peter
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Votes cast 7
Votes cast 6
Style of Ascent
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