From Almageller hut, folllow path to Zwischbergenpass. Turn left and follow the ridge, or drop down on the right after the first top to follow a scree slope or neve patch to below the steeper part of the ridge. The ridge gives fun blocky scrambling on sound rock and leads to a snow dome at just under 4000m. From here a short snow arete leads to the summit of the mountain. 1,200m from Almageller hut.

ambrooker 13/Sep/17 AltLd O/S

Snow ridge was pretty wild with white out and spindrift!

with Tom
chiverstom 13/Sep/17 Lead

Very Scottish conditions. White out and loads of spindrift on summit ridge. Bit exciting!

with Alice
Hidden 08/Sep/17 Solo O/S
ben_st 05/Sep/17 2nd
Blackcountrybill 18/Aug/17 -
tingle 17/Aug/17 Lead

Short roped a partner with the odd soft belay on the crux moves. Beauty of a route. ***

Hidden 12/Aug/17 AltLd O/S
BigHairyIan 03/Aug/17 Lead O/S

Took us far too long and we ended up at the snow arete in the late afternoon. It looked terrifying - a thin traverse with crumbling snow. We turned back at 3987m!

with Katy Stranack
Trevers 02/Aug/17 AltLd

Moved together in 4 hours from the hut. Great route and our first 4000m peak. Not very snowy on top, the snow arête was easy

with Will
wjcdean 02/Aug/17 -

Awesome route, stayed in almageller hut which is a long walk to get to. Left hut at 4:30, summit at 8:30. Snow ridge is pretty easy ATM, no snow on rock ridge

with Trevers
elclarko 29/Jul/17 -

From Almageller hutte

CasualLime 23/Jul/17 AltLd

Try and wake up early to beat the guides on the way up or you will be waiting for a VERY long time.

with Rob Creer
MPSBunny 21/Jul/17 AltLd O/S

It was a hell of a slog up that ridge and even more of a slog back down. Would have been nice to complete the full traverse.

Hidden 21/Jul/17 Lead rpt
Jeester 21/Jul/17 AltLd O/S

Stayed in Allmagella Hut, up at 3.15 for 4.30 start. Summited at 9.20. Came back down same way due to potential Serac danger. Would probably take the risk next time as Hosaas decent looked much much better.

with Ben Jeffreys
Hidden 20/Jul/17 -
Hidden 17/Jul/17 AltLd O/S
EuanM 17/Jul/17 Lead
Hidden 12/Jul/17 -
EmilyElouise 12/Jul/17 2nd
Hidden 12/Jul/17 -
Hidden 12/Jul/17 2nd O/S
Hidden 12/Jul/17 -
Hidden 12/Jul/17 -
Hidden 12/Jul/17 -
a_m154 07/Jul/17 AltLd

Fantastic route left almageller hut at 430 on the summit for 9! Moved together on scramble and final snow arête.

with James Ormrod
matt1024 ?/Jul/17 -
Hidden ??/2017 -
harrypayne ??/2017 AltLd O/S
Hidden 28/Sep/16 -
davelozman 08/Sep/16 -
HelenB 02/Sep/16 -
with SarahC, SteveG
l21bjd 08/Aug/16 -

In descent. Rock ridge was dry, and straight forward down-scramble.

chrisbrown2050 15/Jul/16 AltLd

First 4000er. 10cm of snow overnight. 4:55 start. 0 deg at hut, beautiful day, became progressively hotter until 20 deg on descent. Final ascent of ISM Summit & Skills course. Worked in pair with coursemate - not roped to guide. Paul led first snow field. I led from there - mostly moving together & short roping but pitching a few steps. Rock ridge was snowy but not slippy in crampons. Snow arete scary but not hard. Surprised how hard the altitude made breathing. Down the glacier.

with twodada
Geras 15/Jul/16 AltLd
chris cockbain 14/Jul/16 -

First 4000m, big effort with the altitude and dodgy weather which forced a late start. Same route in decent

robertmills4 14/Jul/16 -

First 4000m peak

with Tom Draude, chris cockbain
Tom Draude 14/Jul/16 2nd O/S
zeitoun 10/Jul/16 Lead O/S

Descent via the normal route.

with Jordi L.
Robin Montaigne 08/Jul/16 AltLd rpt

ISM course. Jonathan led one of lower sections.

with other(s), Christian (ISM), Jonathan
Robin Woodward 04/Jul/16 Lead O/S

04:30 start from Almagellerhutte, summit at 08:45. Jenny's first 4000'er. The snow slopes up from the col were a bit of a tiring slog, but the rock scrambling up the shoulder was good fun and the final snow crests fairly tame with awesome views. Descent down normal route. Whole day with our 4 table mates from the evening before at the hut.

Jenny Dart 04/Jul/16 2nd
with Robin
Nesa 30/Jun/16 -
with L. Muirhead, B. Bradford (Guide)
Hidden 28/Jun/16 AltLd
Tomburke222 ?/Jun/16 -
alan1234 13/Sep/15 -
jrobinson 12/Sep/15 AltLd
with Charlotte
Hidden 07/Sep/15 -
prwalker 07/Sep/15 -
with wupert
Hidden 03/Sep/15 2nd
Hidden 01/Sep/15 Lead O/S
nich0las ?/Sep/15 -
with Catriona C
james.oc 28/Aug/15 AltLd O/S

Excellent conditions on traverse from Almageller Hut to Hohsaas. Great views on top and excellent decent to the ski lift through the serac.

heathergotrumbled 17/Aug/15 2nd

Risked a break in the weather to do this route, so only about 10 people on the mountain. Left Almagellerhutte at 6am just after three other parties. First day up since 30cm new snow. Guided groups kicked steps (thank you!) but joined the ridge early as it was hard work. So, lots more scrambling than usual with snow between rock steps. FH led rock sections on way up. ST got altitude sick on way down. Also snowed a bit. Finished a little over guidebook time (8.5 hours), not far behind guided teams. Came down the same way due to large seracs on the normal route.

with FH, ST
s.tietz 17/Aug/15 AltLd O/S

Stayed night before in Almagellerhutte. Start at 6am, summit before 12am. Us and three other groups were the first groups up after 30cm+ of new snow (down to the hut). Got onto rock ridge before snow field. Long and enjoyable scramble. (Francis took lead.) Final snow ridge was just stunning. Returned same way. (I took *lead*.) I was altitude sick on the way down, which slowed us quite a bit. Probably got to Zwischenbergpass around 2-3am.

Francis Hardy 17/Aug/15 AltLd

Climbed after a meter or more of fresh snow over night and one of only 3 or 4 parties on the mountain. The fresh snow made the rock ridge more serious but luckily had a guided party ahead to break trail. Got an amazing cloud inversion as the sun rose as we approached the col.

with s.tietz
SiRob 13/Aug/15 Lead
with CM
OTB 12/Aug/15 Solo O/S

We took gear but never needed to rope up or assist each other. Quite a long day there and back from Saas-Almagell. Beautiful snowy ridge at the top. Easy scrambling throughout.

si_green99 12/Aug/15 -
RuthW 06/Aug/15 -

Good scramble. Came back down normal route

El_Dave_H 04/Aug/15 Solo

First alpine route. A couple of glorious minutes of solitude on the summit.

maumau 03/Aug/15 -
Dravies ?/Aug/15 -
Tarquin 16/Jul/15 -
Robertgiddy 15/Jul/15 -
Hidden 15/Jul/15 2nd
GOS 14/Jul/15 Solo O/S

lovely scrambling 4 hours from hut

with Elaine Mullan
Hidden 14/Jul/15 -
Hidden 14/Jul/15 -
NickBrown 13/Jul/15 Lead
with Susan
Stu_1985 ?/Jul/15 AltLd
ian.ross.bnc ?/Jul/15 -

with Adrian Nelhams (ISM)

P Gard ?/Jul/15 AltLd O/S

Descent to Hohsaas. First 4000'r with Sian

Hidden ?/Jun/15 AltLd
django ??/2015 -


with John Rowe
Mr. K 29/Sep/14 Lead O/S

Stopped at the Almageller hut, 7hrs to the summit, Elinor's first 4000m peak!

FlamehairedFrodo 29/Sep/14 2nd
Hidden 16/Sep/14 AltLd O/S
Mr Fuller 16/Sep/14 AltLd rpt

Fresh snow on the ridge made it seem really out-there, but no harder than last time when it was dry. Awesome!

Ewanski 11/Sep/14 -
with Barry Speed
Robin Montaigne ?/Sep/14 2nd

ISM course

with other(s), Mark C (ISM)
Marco Plebani 29/Aug/14 -

Day 1: walk from Saas-Fee to Allmageller hut. Day 2: Summit; descent via the Normal route. We slept at the Weissmies hut. Day 3: walk down to Saas-grund. It was cool to avoid cable cars completely.

with Glauco Camenisch
froglette 17/Aug/14 Lead β

Led Del and Liz on their 1st 4000m peak. Traversed to Hohsaas side.

with Liz Galley, Del Redvers
adam clarke 17/Aug/14 -
with James Hulme
Hidden 14/Aug/14 Lead
Hidden 08/Aug/14 AltLd
batterj2 08/Aug/14 2nd O/S

With ISM

Binder 06/Aug/14 AltLd O/S


with Toby
gravity 06/Aug/14 AltLd O/S

Wonderful route. We moved quickly and kept below guidebook time. The final snow arete was superb.

with George
Luis SD 01/Aug/14 -
SAF 18/Jul/14 -
MatthewH 11/Jul/14 -

Full on winter conditions

with Andy Townsend - Glenmore Lodge
carl_123 06/Jul/14 Solo rpt
Hidden ?/Jul/14 -
Hidden 21/Jun/14 -
Helen.Burgess 21/Jun/14 -
Mike Soulby 20/Jun/14 AltLd O/S
Ali Mortazavi 20/Jun/14 AltLd O/S
with Scott, Mike
scott.hill 20/Jun/14 AltLd O/S
_hs_ ??/2014 Solo dnf
mysterion 14/Sep/13 Solo

Second alpine route. Conditions near ideal (some cloud on top). From Almageller hut followed ridge (to UK grade 2 except avoidable slab/notch around UK grade 3) rather than going right onto snow patch, then out and back across two snow aretes - one to a rocky top followed by another to a snowy top beyond that looked higher - then back down ridge to Almageller. Track on each arete switched sides so two sections were foot-width along the very top! Made guidebook time up but not down.

Hidden 05/Sep/13 -
Sarah Welsh 05/Sep/13 -
Alex Parker 04/Sep/13 2nd dnf

Failed due to what I can only put down to altitude. Got up on to the ridge and down the other side but was sick for the next half hour before binning it and returning to the hut.

JudithE 03/Sep/13 -

Led by Guide Graeme Ettle with Becky Ellis (Hammond) and Pete Ellis

Becky E 03/Sep/13 -

A grand day out from the Almageller hut to Hoh Saas. Superb conditions.

with Graeme Ettle, Mum, Peter Ellis
Hidden ?/Sep/13 -
ndraper1 ?/Sep/13 Solo
Jon Ellis 20/Aug/13 AltLd

Traverse of SSE and SW ridges.

with Chris Ellis Jr, Chris Ellis, James Ellis, David Ellis
Hidden 16/Aug/13 -
Hidden 13/Aug/13 -
Hidden 12/Aug/13 -
Hidden 05/Aug/13 -
Hidden 05/Aug/13 Solo
Hoyes 01/Aug/13 Solo O/S

Easy but good.

Batt 01/Aug/13 Solo
stanleynkk ?/Aug/13 2nd
with Nicolas Pope, Peter Saunders
uncontrollable ?/Aug/13 AltLd O/S

Summit traverse, SSE Ridge ascent, normal route descent

with Mel, Max
Ed carrigan ?/Aug/13 -
gfpowell 31/Jul/13 -
JHolland 26/Jul/13 -
hudav 26/Jul/13 -
carl_123 16/Jul/13 -
Hidden 15/Jul/13 AltLd
carl_123 11/Jul/13 AltLd O/S
Avinash Aujayeb 01/Jul/13 2nd O/S
with ales cesen
Simon4 ?/Jul/13 Solo
ralphio ?/Jul/13 -

As part of the traverse. Easy angled snow field and easy scrambling to final snow crest. Had rope on but didn't place any real protection on ridge as not needed. Started from hut at 4am to beat the crowds. 5.5 hours from hut to lift at Hosaas

tinker ?/Jul/13 -

Walked in to the Almagellan Hut the night before: enjoyable scramble to the summit ridge and almost got a view! Descended via the normal route to Hohsass through despicable wet snow: had a bit of a swim on the way down to the top station.

Cheese Monkey 21/Jun/13 -

With ISM, 5hrs hut to summit, excellent day!

r_o_b_h2 11/Sep/12 Lead O/S

superb route, first to the top from the hut hord 5hrs hut to hosass

with Matt Harris
Hidden 10/Sep/12 AltLd O/S
Gav Parker 10/Sep/12 -
Malpractise 04/Aug/12 -

With John Holiday and Jonny Logan

with Jonny Logan
David Barratt ?/Aug/12 Solo O/S

Great day

Michael ?/Aug/12 -
cpforbes ?/Aug/12 Solo O/S
Hidden ?/Aug/12 -
MartinN 24/Jul/12 -
with maherp
John HW 23/Jul/12 Lead
with 2 x Students
wowbagger 12/Jul/12 -
alastairbegley 29/Jun/12 Lead
mattguy ?/Jun/12 -
Alfuller18 ??/2012 -
Badgers 10/Sep/11 AltLd
Stephen Halliday 10/Sep/11 AltLd β
Elastic Jones 09/Sep/11 AltLd O/S
with Chris Cox
cover09 ?/Sep/11 -
benscarter 25/Aug/11 Solo O/S
with Jack
jwpil 25/Aug/11 Solo
with Ben
jfmchivall 24/Aug/11 Solo
with Andrew Thurston, Ole Kemi, Jamie Lawrence
olekemi 24/Aug/11 Solo O/S
with John C, Andrew T, Jamie L
Erik_M 12/Aug/11 Lead O/S
with Alistair Black, James Januszewski
ijsbeer 07/Aug/11 -

omgedraait ivm blessure

AdamCB ?/Aug/11 -

With Tim

robgixer ?/Aug/11 -
James_L88 19/Jul/11 -
with Badger, James Moore
Hidden 19/Jul/11 2nd O/S
Finn Curry 06/Jul/11 AltLd
Stephen Halliday 06/Jul/11 AltLd
with John Wilshaw, Finn Curry
TimPerkin 03/Jul/11 AltLd O/S
with Chris Griffiths, Colin Beechey
hedgehog77 ?/Jul/11 -
Adamski1986 ?/Jul/11 -
with Kev Murley, Eamon Hanlon, John Walker
moorsy88 ?/Jun/11 -
with Badger, James Long
nickhoward 23/Sep/10 Lead O/S
GermanAlex ?/Sep/10 -
dscnly 24/Aug/10 2nd
with Tomas Hallen - ISM Guide
sj87 13/Aug/10 -
dkd 10/Aug/10 Lead O/S
with Al
Dirty Knees ?/Aug/10 2nd
t8t9t8 22/Jul/10 -
John HW 21/Jul/10 AltLd

As part of AML assessment. Tanya Noakes and Percy

Simon Baker 20/Jul/10 -
Kirill 16/Jul/10 -


Hidden 12/Jul/10 AltLd O/S
Hidden 12/Jul/10 AltLd O/S
cliffy 12/Jul/10 -
Julian Prieto 12/Jul/10 -
Jon Pilling ?/Jul/10 AltLd O/S
with Jason Balman
jonesieboy ?/Jul/10 -

Brilliant mountain day.

JRSB1991 ?/Jul/10 Lead O/S
Steve Woollard 23/Jun/10 AltLd
steveprice.exmouth 23/Jun/10 AltLd
monkey1 19/Jun/10 -
Hidden 10/Sep/09 AltLd O/S
Hidden 10/Sep/09 AltLd O/S
tractorbachcoch 07/Sep/09 AltLd O/S
with Steve Jones (ISM), Teresa
riven 07/Sep/09 -
Mr Fuller 07/Sep/09 2nd

Great route.

Alfuller18 07/Sep/09 Lead
Lady T 07/Sep/09 2nd O/S
with Steve Jones (ISM), Iwan
SteveM 13/Aug/09 Lead
with Kat
kitkat78 13/Aug/09 -

My first Alpine climb proper, and what a great start! Steady ascents on the snow slopes, moved well together on the rock, rewarded with an early and relatively uncrowded summit. Beautiful descent, across my first glacier and first experience of snow bridges. Fabulous!

with SteveM
Hidden 11/Aug/09 Lead O/S
Poco Loco 06/Aug/09 Lead

One of my favourite mountain days ever, must be the best PD route in the area? Picturesque hut climb to the Almageller Hut (no gondola). The climb to the Weissmies has a fun little snow slope then a ridge climb on excellent rock with short pitches of II+, followed by an airy snow ridge and glacier descent. I highly recommend finishing the day by riding a monster trotti scooter to Saas Grund from the mid gondola station, 11KM of downhill fun!

with Guy Pomeroy and Sonica Rua
Hidden ?/Aug/09 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/Aug/09 2nd
Bex_M 29/Jul/09 -
Hidden 28/Jul/09 AltLd
Hidden 28/Jul/09 2nd O/S
Matt Bennett 27/Jul/09 -

First Alpine Route

with Andrew Moore, Keith Lambley
Warren Earle 25/Jul/09 AltLd O/S

6.5 hrs from Almageller Hutte - summit 32 deg Walk to pass neve snow field Scramble up ridge - narrow snow arete to summit return same way

with Nev and Nick
Hidden 25/Jul/09 -
DavidR 25/Jul/09 AltLd O/S

Set off from Almageller Hut at 3:50am, summitted at 9am and back at the Hohsaas lift by 11am. Cracking route and a great day (although VERY windy on the descent).

martinh13 21/Jul/09 -
with Fiona R
Mike-W-99 21/Jul/09 -
with EMC, Fiona
Fiona Reid 21/Jul/09 -

Brilliant views but scary descent under the seracs. Personally wouldn't have roped up until the final snow arete to the summit but done with a big group so rope used.

with Anne, Mike, Tim, Martin
lauramfletcher 11/Jul/09 -
WillCass 10/Jul/09 Lead
Sianny 10/Jul/09 Lead
ian2707 ?/Jul/09 2nd
Hidden ?/Jul/09 -
peterd ??/2009 -

good fun!

Piglet69 ??/2009 -
Hidden 16/Sep/08 2nd
markfairbank 02/Sep/08 Solo

Set off from the Almageller hut about 5.45am, reached the summit around 10am. Good conditions on the rocky ridge which was climbed solo until the final snow crest to the summit. Roped up with John for the final snow crest climb to the summit and the glacial decent down the North-West flank and South-West ridge to the Hohsaas lift. Decent took a couple of hours. Fantastic day with perfect conditions.

johnjb 02/Sep/08 Solo rpt

5:45 am start. Scrambled up rocky ridge. Roped up for final snow ridge to summit. Nice sunny day. Second ascent.

Mountain Llama 02/Sep/08 AltLd
with Paul S
Chris Plewa ?/Aug/08 2nd
Jimmy O ?/Aug/08 -
with Matt Down
rich_greeny 28/Jul/08 -

Great day, temperature inversions in the adjacent valley gave some very atmospheric climbing. Don't take the snow slope all the way up though, rock quality was loose and chossy until moving left on the true ridge.

with Phil Johnson, Paul Dewey
Graeme Hammond 28/Jul/08 -
with LSMC members
Neilfrherts 10/Jul/08 -
with Sean
Hidden 04/Jul/08 2nd dnf
Hidden 01/Jul/08 -
abbeywall 01/Jul/08 -
with K
DAL ?/Jul/08 AltLd O/S
Hidden 27/Jun/08 AltLd
Hidden 08/Sep/07 Lead
Hidden ?/Aug/07 2nd
blaza1 ?/Aug/07 AltLd

turned into a mini epic!

with lee sears, david baynes, mac
Hidden ?/Aug/07 2nd
furry 27/Jul/07 -
with Caz
phez 19/Jul/07 AltLd β

Lovely day, start at 3.30, summit 11. Back down same route.

with Kade Spears
Hidden 18/Jul/07 2nd
cearbhalld 12/Jul/07 AltLd
keith hal 12/Jul/07 2nd
with Martin Moran
Hidden 10/Jul/07 Lead O/S
milkyjoe 08/Jul/07 -

with CAS.

Chris L Hill ?/Jul/07 -
with Mark Harrison, Stuart Shaw, Ed Cheadle, Simon Pearce
MoWalker3 11/Aug/06 -
Jim Brooke ?/Aug/06 -
with Juan
Hidden 11/Jul/06 2nd β
FrJ 07/Jul/06 -

With ISM

rob k ?/Jul/06 AltLd O/S
with C Amis
johnjb 02/Sep/05 -

Moving together for final section.

with Martin Sharp
Simon Allcock 06/Aug/05 -
with nick
lberry ?/Aug/05 -
The Ivanator ?/Aug/05 -
industrialiceman 25/Jul/05 AltLd
DavPk 18/Jul/05 -
with Catherine Pearks
Feeling bold 07/Jul/05 2nd
with Mike (UK), Jamie, John Bracey
Hidden 16/May/05 2nd dnf
Hidden ??/2005 Lead O/S
Andy Clarke 01/Aug/04 AltLd

Done on Swiss National Day, so quite a party in progress in the sumnmit.

with James
agagsgrot ?/Aug/04 -
with Chris, Thomas
Hidden 28/Jul/04 -
Iain Thow 08/Jul/04 Solo

in descent, great glissade!

Bob M ?/Aug/02 -

Just under 4 hours to summit, 5 hrs 30 mins from hut to hut. Nice route, quite easy but with some good scrambling.

with Richard Mott
Paul-Michael 24/Jul/02 AltLd O/S

We had no glacier to cross so we roped up just before the summit ridge. 4 1/2 hrs to the summit 3 hrs in decent.

with George Manley, Neil Champion, Steve (Magdalene)
streapadair 12/Aug/00 Solo

From bivi on Zwischbergenpass, 04.30, summit 08.00. First 4000er, joyous.

James W ?/Aug/00 -
with john sanday
fizzy_elephant ?/Aug/99 -
with Roger
roncaves 17/Jul/94 AltLd

In descent

with Ian Humberstone
Hidden 06/Aug/93 Lead
Nigel Bond 14/Aug/74 Solo

First 4000m peak and first real trip to the Alps climbed in 4 hrs from the hut.

with Chas,Murry,Rodger & others, Dave Jolliffe
15 users have this on their wishlist
High PD+
Mid PD+
Low PD+
High PD
Mid PD
Low PD
High PD-
Mid PD-
Low PD-
Votes cast 21
Votes cast 20
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Not Set