400m, 15 pitches.

Rockfax Description
II, 450m. Another justly famous route which picks the best rock of the two Pointes des Nantillons. The upper section feels wonderfully 'out there' and remote.
1) 6a+. As for Bienvenue au Georges V.
2) 6b+. Step right off the belay and climb up the crest of a pillar to a large ledge below a beautiful crack.
3) 6a+. Follow the finger-crack for 10m, then go straight up before stepping right to belay.
4) 5c. Move right and follow the leaning corner to a ledge.
5) 6a. A short slab followed by a brief corner.
6) 6a. Climb cracks to an exposed, semi-hanging belay.
7) 6a+. A short but stunning pitch up a crack system to the right of a corner. The belay is at the left-hand end of a long ledge.
8) 4b. Cross the ledge easily to a single bolt belay.
9) 5b. Go straight up the crack system above the belay before drifting up and left up another series of cracks.
10) 6a. Start just to the right of the belay then follow cracks left before a slab (with two bolts on it) leads back right.
11) 6a. Climb a short crack before going up a left-leaning ramp for 5m to reach a slab with two bolts on it. Climb this to a belay on the left.
12) 6b. A couple of moves on a slab lead to a steep corner/chimney which gets harder the higher you go. Exit rightwards.
13) 6a+. Climb cracks and then turn a small overhang on the right to reach a belay right on the crest of a pillar.
14) 6a+. Follow the superb slab past three bolts to the summit.
Descent - Abseil back down. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
6b+ E2, 6a+ obligatory. (Note the guidebook says 5c obligatory but then says on pitch 2 it is 6b+ free or 6a+ A1...)

Ticklists

Euro Alpine Rock

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Logged Ascents

User Date Style Notes & Partners
John McKenna 16 Aug AltLd O/S A great route with 3 distinct enjoyable sections. Led the 'crux' pitch, but arguably Calum's alternative entry pitch (crack and groove system direct into second pitch) was the crux as it went up reasonably hard ground and was not bolted (which the crux turned out to be). Most of the other technical grades for the higher pitches were soft we felt (minus the 6b pitch). Still a great route and summit!
A great route with 3 distinct enjoyable sections. Led the 'crux' pitch, but arguably Calum's alternative entry pitch (crack and groove system direct into second pitch) was the crux as it went up reasonably hard ground and was not bolted (which the crux turned out to be). Most of the other technical grades for the higher pitches were soft we felt (minus the 6b pitch). Still a great route and summit!
calumhicks 16 Aug AltLd O/S Very similar to other routes on this face. The initial pitch felt much harder than anything else, so we were maybe off-route. Great route.
with John Mckenna
Very similar to other routes on this face. The initial pitch felt much harder than anything else, so we were maybe off-route. Great route.
with John Mckenna
Ted F 16 Jul Lead O/S
with Chelsea North
with Chelsea North
tuko 12 Jul -
Hidden 4 Oct, 2018 AltLd
Hidden 4 Oct, 2018 AltLd
Hidden 15 Aug, 2018 AltLd
Hidden 15 Aug, 2018 AltLd
Rharrison 22 Aug, 2017 AltLd
with Tyler
with Tyler
Hidden 7 Aug, 2017 AltLd
liamo333 ?Aug, 2017 AltLd O/S Nice route, late start
Nice route, late start
Hidden 5 Jul, 2017 AltLd
katy_abra ?Aug, 2014 -
with Assya
with Assya
vegarye ?Jul, 2014 -
Petar Samkov 10 Aug, 2013 Lead O/S Alpine craging !!! Really good... as most of the routes there .
Alpine craging !!! Really good... as most of the routes there .
MonkeyDawson ?Aug, 2012 AltLd O/S
with Simon Smith
with Simon Smith
morganator ?Jul, 2011 AltLd
with soph
with soph
soph ?Jul, 2011 AltLd
with Ben Tibbetts, morganator
with Ben Tibbetts, morganator
Franco Cookson OLD 10 Aug, 2008 AltLd O/S crux pitch and the one a couple before are some of the best i've led. :-) first ED. awesome:-)
crux pitch and the one a couple before are some of the best i've led. :-) first ED. awesome:-)
lukehunt ?Aug, 2008 AltLd O/S Good route
with francocookson
Good route
with francocookson
lukehunt ?Jan, 2008 AltLd
Franco Cookson ??, 2008 AltLd O/S
12 users have this on their wishlist
Voting
High ED2
Mid ED2
Low ED2
High ED1
Mid ED1
Low ED1
High TD+
Mid TD+
Low TD+
High 6c
Mid 6c
Low 6c
High 6b+
Mid 6b+
Low 6b+
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
Votes cast 1
Votes cast 2
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Not Set
Onsighted
Not Set