Rockfax Description
II, 350m. Arguably the most famous route in this chapter.
1) 6a+. Quite a start! Climb a crack before following a grey ramp-line out right to a ledge. The belay is at the far end of this.
2) 5c. Climb a thin crack on the left.
3) 6a. Make a short, rising traverse leftwards then go up a steep section which is short but packs quite a punch!
4) 6a+. Follow a fantastic thin crack straight up a pillar.
5) 5b. Head up the chimney/ramp that leads out left.
6) 6a. Make a short, delicate traverse left and then follow a crack easily up a slab to a large ledge. The route steepens considerably from here on.
7) 6a. Climb up to the left of a large flake and above this, traverse several metres to the right following a superb series of small flakes up to a ledge.
8) 6a. Follow a slab out right and then go straight up, immediately to the right of a corner.
9) 6a. Head up and left to gain a shallow corner and go up this.
10) 6a. Climb the slabby spur on the right. There is a bold section in the middle of this and at the top of it is a small gap which you have to step across. The belay is 5m higher.
11) 6a. Go straight up the spur above and then drift up and left across a slab.
12) 5c. Gain the corner on the right and follow a chimney out left. A final short, wide crack up a slab takes you to the summit. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
See http://www.camptocamp.org/routes/53909/fr/premiere-pointe-des-nantillons-bienvenue-au-georges-v
Piola & Strappazzon Sep/1986.
Ticklists
Batoux's 100 finest routes in the Mont Blanc massif , ROCKFAX Chamonix: Top 50 , Escalades Choisies Mont-Blanc Aiguilles Rouges (60 Routes 4 to 6a+) , Alpine Dreamz , Greatest E2s in Europe (or thereabouts)
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Singe Bleu
Grade: TD+ 6b ***
(Aiguille d'Argentiere)