My 1st outdoor climb © TraverseKing
There is no ‘roadside’ crag more roadside than this one! The main face at Castle Inn is a slabby wall with many fine routes on natural rock which has stood the test of time without becoming unduly polished.
In 1991 the crag was bolted up to make a sport venue but this provoked outrage in certain quarters and the bolts were removed. However, after the intervention of several people, including Colin Goodey one of the crags original developers in the 1950s, all the removed gear was replaced with resin-bolts to leave it as it is today.
The pub is now closed and is a private residence.
In 2008 the obvious wall 50 yards to the left of the main crag was developed. It relinquished 5 excellent routes (2 sport, 3 trad) on superb, rough rock and was named Fine View Wall.
In 2011 a number of small slabby walls were developed (mostly by Colin Goodey again) offering many much needed lower grade sport climbs and resulting in Castle Inn becoming a complex of crags.
From the east (chester) come off the A55 expressway at Llanddulas (JCN23). Turn right at the roundabout by the filling station and then left towards Old Colwyn(A547). Follow the road for 1 mile to just before the crest of the hill. Turn left up Highlands Road and after 0.4 miles fork right into Tan y Craig road (between 2 limestone walls). After another 0.4 miles turn left into the car park (you can see the cliff on the left as you approach).
From the west, come off the A55 expressway at Old Colwyn (JCN22). Turn right under the bridge and turn left at the roundabout towards Llanddulas/Abergele (A547). After 1.5 miles and after the crest of the hill, turn right onto Highlands Road and after 0.4 miles fork right into Tan y Craig road (between 2 limestone walls). After another 0.4 miles turn left into the car park (you can see the crag on the left as you approach).
|Tiger Lily Wall|
|3||open your legs||6b *||197|
|5||Lili Marlene direct||
|6||Alone with the moon||5a||251|
|7||Alone with the moon - right of the bolts||
|8||Ice Cream and Candyfloss||5c||235|
|11||One Fine Day||3a||142|
|FINE VIEW WALL|
|16||Indian summer||6a+ *||570|
|17||Mynydd Marian||VS 4c *||187|
|18||as you like it||6b+ *||161|
|19||Pioneer Cracks||E1 5b *||89|
|20||The walking furnace||E3 5c *||37|
|21||Happy Return||4c **||150|
|THE MAIN FACE|
|24||More than this||6a||328|
|27||School Mam||6a *||897|
|28||School Mam with original start||6b *||80|
|29||Cakewalk Direct||6c **||363|
|30||The Cakewalk||6b+ **||603|
|31||Route 3||6c ***||639|
|32||Roots Bloody Roots||f6A+||2|
|33||Route 2||6a **||1618|
|35||Route 1||5a ***||1870|
|36||Cross Winds||6c+ **||145|
|37||Driving the Dumper||6c+ *||83|
|39||Fuel Injected||7b+ *||16|
|40||Secret Garden||6c+ *||58|
|42||Love Your Belayer||S 4a||8|
|45||Left hand crack||VD||8|
|46||Right hand crack||S||12|
|47||Conan The Libertarian||
|The Lost World|
|51||Cariad - Zimba||4c||384|
|56||Mynydd Marion||S *||25|
|58||Wilderness Wall||5a *||501|
|60||Birthday Boy||5a *||322|
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