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UKClimbing Team

Climbs 70
Rocktype Limestone

Faces S

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My 1st outdoor climb © TraverseKing

Crag features

There is no ‘roadside’ crag more roadside than this one! The main face at Castle Inn is a slabby wall with many fine routes on natural rock which has stood the test of time without becoming unduly polished.

In 1991 the crag was bolted up to make a sport venue but this provoked outrage in certain quarters and the bolts were removed. However, after the intervention of several people, including Colin Goodey one of the crags original developers in the 1950s, all the removed gear was replaced with resin-bolts to leave it as it is today.

The pub is now closed and is a private residence.

In 2008 the obvious wall 50 yards to the left of the main crag was developed. It relinquished 5 excellent routes (2 sport, 3 trad) on superb, rough rock and was named Fine View Wall.

In 2011 a number of small slabby walls were developed (mostly by Colin Goodey again) offering many much needed lower grade sport climbs and resulting in Castle Inn becoming a complex of crags.

Approach notes

From the east (chester) come off the A55 expressway at Llanddulas (JCN23). Turn right at the roundabout by the filling station and then left towards Old Colwyn(A547). Follow the road for 1 mile to just before the crest of the hill. Turn left up Highlands Road and after 0.4 miles fork right into Tan y Craig road (between 2 limestone walls). After another 0.4 miles turn left into the car park (you can see the cliff on the left as you approach).

From the west, come off the A55 expressway at Old Colwyn (JCN22). Turn right under the bridge and turn left at the roundabout towards Llanddulas/Abergele (A547). After 1.5 miles and after the crest of the hill, turn right onto Highlands Road and after 0.4 miles fork right into Tan y Craig road (between 2 limestone walls). After another 0.4 miles turn left into the car park (you can see the crag on the left as you approach).

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North Wales Climbs

North Wales Climbs covers the best climbing from the whole of this huge and varied area. The book is modelled on the very popular West Country Climbs which set a new standard for selected climb guidebooks back in 2010. It contains all the routes from the 2010 publication North Wales Classics and many more routes and areas, with expanded descriptions and much bigger photo-topos. The book covers all the major mountain crags from Llanberis Pass, to Cloggy; and from Ogwen to the Carneddau. It also includes the Llanberis Slate quarries, Tremadog, the Moelwyns, the Gwynant Valley, Mid-Wales, Gogarth and the North Coast Limestone.
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Used to love this crag, climbed here as an Autumn through spring venue for more years than I care to remember. However its popularity has resulted in a high degree of polish on most routes which has made them less attractive and more insecure.
Angry old man - 17/Oct/19
The second bolt on Mogadishu is still appears it has been for 4 years though!
SebCa - 02/May/19
One of the bolts on Ffrind is loose
kate8 - 02/Sep/18
Was there a few weeks ago and there are a couple of loose holds on Taid a move or two below the lower off. A couple have chalk crosses on but they might have washed off by now.
Murfle - 01/Sep/16
The second bolt of Mogadishu is loose.
charlieg0pzo - 24/Sep/15
Went there yesterday, no rubbish to be seen and all of the routes/lower off's were in tact. Brilliant place to climb.
ChristineLouise89 - 21/Aug/13
3 new easy routes up and left of Fine View Wall, however the far left route shoud not be climbed due to the lower off resin not setting/still wet. Be careful.
Zoomer - 12/Jul/12
Was there today, 1st bolt of Zimba missing and on the Taid Wall lots of climbers rubbish i.e. chalk wrappers/rope cards etc. Its not the cleanest place but lets at least make the effort as climbers to clean up after ourselves!
Zoomer - 12/Mar/12
Was climbing here on saturday and the lowest bolt on the most left route on the lost world sector fell out, no weight was placed on it, i think the belayer stepped back and put a small amount of pressure on it. Bit worrying!!
tomjagger - 12/Mar/12
Don't rely on what "chers" says! The approach given is completely accurate and from the "A55 Sport Climbs" guidebook. Also all routes have lower-offs and are very much "still there"! In addition there has been much development in 2011 of a number of small slabby walls providing many much needed lower grade sport climbs. These are included in the second edition of "A55 Sport Climbs".
rockcat - 19/Dec/11
Don't rely on these directions to get you there...came across it more by chance. Also, the pub appears to have been shut for a long while...and whilst I didn't climb here, I couldn't see more than a handful of lower offs...are all the routes still there?
chers - 19/Mar/11
A nice little afternoon's sport climbing is this. the HVS and E1 (yes, I know I said sport, but that's how it's written in the old Rockfax guide!) in the middle of the face are nice and pleasant. There is some harder stuff there which may merit a revisit sometime. Oh, and the pub that owns the carpark with the face gets on well with climbers - pop in for a pint.
Al Urker - 12/Mar/04
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  Tiger Lily Wall
2 Neoteric-Gen S 23
3 Late for a Date E1 4c 4
4 Won't someone think of the children? VD 4
5 open your legs 6b * 257
6 Lili Marlene 6a 271
7 Lili Marlene direct
6b 101
8 Alone with the moon 5a 345
9 Alone with the moon - right of the bolts
6a 113
10 Ice Cream and Candyfloss 6a 325
11 Ken and Joan 4c 7
12 Either/Or VD 4
  Opera Wall
14 Madam Butterfly 4c 213
15 One Fine Day 4a 233
16 TRF 4a 216
18 On My Last Leg E1 4c 4
19 Easy Peasy 3a 378
20 comeback kid 4a 510
21 Indian summer 6a+ * 737
22 Mynydd Marian VS 4c * 259
23 as you like it 6b+ * 212
24 Pioneer Cracks E1 5b * 120
25 The walking furnace E3 5c * 39
26 Happy Return 4c ** 227
Climb name Grade
28 Mogadishu 4c * 1146
29 More than this 6a 409
30 The Outsider 6c 181
31 Finale 5a 969
32 Milf crack 6a * 1070
33 School Mam 6b * 161
34 Middle Muddle 5a ** 8
35 Cakewalk Direct 6c ** 434
36 The Cakewalk 6b+ ** 736
37 Route 3 6c *** 794
38 Roots Bloody Roots f6A+ 3
39 Route 2 6a ** 2043
40 Route 1.5 6a+ 25
41 Route 1 5a *** 2406
42 Cross Winds 6c+ ** 170
43 Driving the Dumper 6c+ * 94
44 Solid 6 7a 46
45 Foot and Mouth made me do it! 7c  
46 Fuel Injected 7b+ * 15
47 Secret Garden 6c+ * 66
48 Green Fingers 6b 111
49 Love Your Belayer S 4a 15
50 Vienna
6c 8
51 Cross Roads
6c 3
52 Left hand crack VD 23
Climb name Grade
53 Right hand crack S 24
54 Walk on By VS 4c 1
55 Conan The Libertarian
6a 213
56 October Premiere
5c 274
57 Initiation 3a 118
  The Lost World
59 Cariad - Zimba 5a 532
60 Nain
4a 792
61 Ffrind
4a * 883
62 Taid 5a 890
63 Hidden Gem 4a 505
64 Mynydd Marion S * 36
  Wilderness Wall
66 Wilderness Wall 5a * 668
67 Butterfly Blue 4a 583
68 Tribute S 4a 17
69 Birthday Boy 5a * 421
70 Inspiration 4a 503
  Bantam Wall
72 Rosecomb 6a 67
73 Halle
5c 56
74 Appenzeller 5c 398
75 Appenzeller Slab 6a+ 6
76 Smartie 5c 424
77 Jordan Peterson 4c 71

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