UKC

Climbs 57
Rocktype Limestone

Faces S

My 1st outdoor climb © TraverseKing

Crag features

There is no ‘roadside’ crag more roadside than this one! The main face at Castle Inn is a slabby wall with many fine routes on natural rock which has stood the test of time without becoming unduly polished.

In 1991 the crag was bolted up to make a sport venue but this provoked outrage in certain quarters and the bolts were removed. However, after the intervention of several people, including Colin Goodey one of the crags original developers in the 1950s, all the removed gear was replaced with resin-bolts to leave it as it is today.

The pub is now closed and is a private residence.

In 2008 the obvious wall 50 yards to the left of the main crag was developed. It relinquished 5 excellent routes (2 sport, 3 trad) on superb, rough rock and was named Fine View Wall.

In 2011 a number of small slabby walls were developed (mostly by Colin Goodey again) offering many much needed lower grade sport climbs and resulting in Castle Inn becoming a complex of crags.

Approach notes

From the east (chester) come off the A55 expressway at Llanddulas (JCN23). Turn right at the roundabout by the filling station and then left towards Old Colwyn(A547). Follow the road for 1 mile to just before the crest of the hill. Turn left up Highlands Road and after 0.4 miles fork right into Tan y Craig road (between 2 limestone walls). After another 0.4 miles turn left into the car park (you can see the cliff on the left as you approach).

From the west, come off the A55 expressway at Old Colwyn (JCN22). Turn right under the bridge and turn left at the roundabout towards Llanddulas/Abergele (A547). After 1.5 miles and after the crest of the hill, turn right onto Highlands Road and after 0.4 miles fork right into Tan y Craig road (between 2 limestone walls). After another 0.4 miles turn left into the car park (you can see the crag on the left as you approach).

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Guidebooks

North Wales Climbs

North Wales Climbs covers the best climbing from the whole of this huge and varied area. The book is modelled on the very popular West Country Climbs which set a new standard for selected climb guidebooks back in 2010. It contains all the routes from the 2010 publication North Wales Classics and many more routes and areas, with expanded descriptions and much bigger photo-topos. The book covers all the major mountain crags from Llanberis Pass, to Cloggy; and from Ogwen to the Carneddau. It also includes the Llanberis Slate quarries, Tremadog, the Moelwyns, the Gwynant Valley, Mid-Wales, Gogarth and the North Coast Limestone.
More info
Was there a few weeks ago and there are a couple of loose holds on Taid a move or two below the lower off. A couple have chalk crosses on but they might have washed off by now.
Murfle - 01/Sep/16
The second bolt of Mogadishu is loose.
charlieg0pzo - 24/Sep/15
Went there yesterday, no rubbish to be seen and all of the routes/lower off's were in tact. Brilliant place to climb.
ChristineLouise89 - 21/Aug/13
3 new easy routes up and left of Fine View Wall, however the far left route shoud not be climbed due to the lower off resin not setting/still wet. Be careful.
Zoomer - 12/Jul/12
Was there today, 1st bolt of Zimba missing and on the Taid Wall lots of climbers rubbish i.e. chalk wrappers/rope cards etc. Its not the cleanest place but lets at least make the effort as climbers to clean up after ourselves!
Zoomer - 12/Mar/12
Was climbing here on saturday and the lowest bolt on the most left route on the lost world sector fell out, no weight was placed on it, i think the belayer stepped back and put a small amount of pressure on it. Bit worrying!!
tomjagger - 12/Mar/12
Don't rely on what "chers" says! The approach given is completely accurate and from the "A55 Sport Climbs" guidebook. Also all routes have lower-offs and are very much "still there"! In addition there has been much development in 2011 of a number of small slabby walls providing many much needed lower grade sport climbs. These are included in the second edition of "A55 Sport Climbs".
rockcat - 19/Dec/11
Don't rely on these directions to get you there...came across it more by chance. Also, the pub appears to have been shut for a long while...and whilst I didn't climb here, I couldn't see more than a handful of lower offs...are all the routes still there?
chers - 19/Mar/11
A nice little afternoon's sport climbing is this. the HVS and E1 (yes, I know I said sport, but that's how it's written in the old Rockfax guide!) in the middle of the face are nice and pleasant. There is some harder stuff there which may merit a revisit sometime. Oh, and the pub that owns the carpark with the face gets on well with climbers - pop in for a pint.
Al Urker - 12/Mar/04
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  Tiger Lily Wall
2 Neoteric-Gen S 9
3 open your legs 6b * 221
4 Lili Marlene 5c 231
5 Lili Marlene direct
-
6b 89
6 Alone with the moon 5a 287
7 Alone with the moon - right of the bolts
-
6a 101
8 Ice Cream and Candyfloss 5c 275
  Opera Wall
10 Madam Butterfly 4c 151
11 One Fine Day 3a 168
12 TRF 4a 157
  FINE VIEW WALL
14 Easy Peasy 3a 245
15 comeback kid 4a 362
16 Indian summer 6a+ * 616
17 Mynydd Marian VS 4c * 206
18 as you like it 6b+ * 171
19 Pioneer Cracks E1 5b * 96
20 The walking furnace E3 5c * 37
21 Happy Return 4c ** 170
Climb name Grade
  THE MAIN FACE
23 Mogadishu 4c * 943
24 More than this 6a 343
25 The Outsider 6c 163
26 Finale 5a 844
27 School Mam 6a * 968
28 School Mam with original start 6b * 98
29 Cakewalk Direct 6c ** 385
30 The Cakewalk 6b+ ** 639
31 Route 3 6c *** 685
32 Roots Bloody Roots f6A+ 2
33 Route 2 6a ** 1736
34 Route 1.5 6a+ 15
35 Route 1 5a *** 1986
36 Cross Winds 6c+ ** 148
37 Driving the Dumper 6c+ * 85
38 Solid 6 7a 37
39 Fuel Injected 7b+ * 16
40 Secret Garden 6c+ * 60
41 Green Fingers 6b 100
42 Love Your Belayer S 4a 9
43 Vienna
-
6c 7
Climb name Grade
44 Cross Roads
-
6c 3
45 Left hand crack VD 10
46 Right hand crack S 12
47 Conan The Libertarian
-
6a 188
48 October Premiere
-
5c 235
49 Initiation 3a 91
  The Lost World
51 Cariad - Zimba 4c 421
52 Nain
-
4a 640
53 Ffrind
-
4a * 712
54 Taid 4a 713
55 Hidden Gem 4a 408
56 Mynydd Marion S * 29
  Wilderness Wall
58 Wilderness Wall 5a * 541
59 Butterfly Blue 4a 475
60 Birthday Boy 5a * 345
61 Inspiration 4a 409
  Bantam Wall
63 Appenzeller 5c 322
64 Smartie 5c 333

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