Climbs 66
Rocktype Limestone

Faces S

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My 1st outdoor climb © TraverseKing

Crag features

There is no ‘roadside’ crag more roadside than this one! The main face at Castle Inn is a slabby wall with many fine routes on natural rock which has stood the test of time without becoming unduly polished.

In 1991 the crag was bolted up to make a sport venue but this provoked outrage in certain quarters and the bolts were removed. However, after the intervention of several people, including Colin Goodey one of the crags original developers in the 1950s, all the removed gear was replaced with resin-bolts to leave it as it is today.

The pub is now closed and is a private residence.

In 2008 the obvious wall 50 yards to the left of the main crag was developed. It relinquished 5 excellent routes (2 sport, 3 trad) on superb, rough rock and was named Fine View Wall.

In 2011 a number of small slabby walls were developed (mostly by Colin Goodey again) offering many much needed lower grade sport climbs and resulting in Castle Inn becoming a complex of crags.

Approach notes

From the east (chester) come off the A55 expressway at Llanddulas (JCN23). Turn right at the roundabout by the filling station and then left towards Old Colwyn(A547). Follow the road for 1 mile to just before the crest of the hill. Turn left up Highlands Road and after 0.4 miles fork right into Tan y Craig road (between 2 limestone walls). After another 0.4 miles turn left into the car park (you can see the cliff on the left as you approach).

From the west, come off the A55 expressway at Old Colwyn (JCN22). Turn right under the bridge and turn left at the roundabout towards Llanddulas/Abergele (A547). After 1.5 miles and after the crest of the hill, turn right onto Highlands Road and after 0.4 miles fork right into Tan y Craig road (between 2 limestone walls). After another 0.4 miles turn left into the car park (you can see the crag on the left as you approach).

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Guidebooks

North Wales Climbs

North Wales Climbs covers the best climbing from the whole of this huge and varied area. The book is modelled on the very popular West Country Climbs which set a new standard for selected climb guidebooks back in 2010. It contains all the routes from the 2010 publication North Wales Classics and many more routes and areas, with expanded descriptions and much bigger photo-topos. The book covers all the major mountain crags from Llanberis Pass, to Cloggy; and from Ogwen to the Carneddau. It also includes the Llanberis Slate quarries, Tremadog, the Moelwyns, the Gwynant Valley, Mid-Wales, Gogarth and the North Coast Limestone.
More info
The second bolt on Mogadishu is still loose...it appears it has been for 4 years though!
SebCa - 02/May/19
One of the bolts on Ffrind is loose
kate8 - 02/Sep/18
Was there a few weeks ago and there are a couple of loose holds on Taid a move or two below the lower off. A couple have chalk crosses on but they might have washed off by now.
Murfle - 01/Sep/16
The second bolt of Mogadishu is loose.
charlieg0pzo - 24/Sep/15
Went there yesterday, no rubbish to be seen and all of the routes/lower off's were in tact. Brilliant place to climb.
ChristineLouise89 - 21/Aug/13
3 new easy routes up and left of Fine View Wall, however the far left route shoud not be climbed due to the lower off resin not setting/still wet. Be careful.
Zoomer - 12/Jul/12
Was there today, 1st bolt of Zimba missing and on the Taid Wall lots of climbers rubbish i.e. chalk wrappers/rope cards etc. Its not the cleanest place but lets at least make the effort as climbers to clean up after ourselves!
Zoomer - 12/Mar/12
Was climbing here on saturday and the lowest bolt on the most left route on the lost world sector fell out, no weight was placed on it, i think the belayer stepped back and put a small amount of pressure on it. Bit worrying!!
tomjagger - 12/Mar/12
Don't rely on what "chers" says! The approach given is completely accurate and from the "A55 Sport Climbs" guidebook. Also all routes have lower-offs and are very much "still there"! In addition there has been much development in 2011 of a number of small slabby walls providing many much needed lower grade sport climbs. These are included in the second edition of "A55 Sport Climbs".
rockcat - 19/Dec/11
Don't rely on these directions to get you there...came across it more by chance. Also, the pub appears to have been shut for a long while...and whilst I didn't climb here, I couldn't see more than a handful of lower offs...are all the routes still there?
chers - 19/Mar/11
A nice little afternoon's sport climbing is this. the HVS and E1 (yes, I know I said sport, but that's how it's written in the old Rockfax guide!) in the middle of the face are nice and pleasant. There is some harder stuff there which may merit a revisit sometime. Oh, and the pub that owns the carpark with the face gets on well with climbers - pop in for a pint.
Al Urker - 12/Mar/04
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  Tiger Lily Wall
2 Neoteric-Gen S 19
3 Late for a Date E1 4c 1
4 Won't someone think of the children? VD 2
5 open your legs 6b * 239
6 Lili Marlene 5c 251
7 Lili Marlene direct
-
6b 96
8 Alone with the moon 5a 316
9 Alone with the moon - right of the bolts
-
6a 107
10 Ice Cream and Candyfloss 5c 303
11 Either/Or VD 4
  Opera Wall
13 Madam Butterfly 4c 197
14 One Fine Day 3a 216
15 TRF 4a 199
  FINE VIEW WALL
17 Easy Peasy 3a 303
18 comeback kid 4a 435
19 Indian summer 6a+ * 669
20 Mynydd Marian VS 4c * 227
21 as you like it 6b+ * 189
22 Pioneer Cracks E1 5b * 105
23 The walking furnace E3 5c * 39
24 Happy Return 4c ** 207
25 On My Last Leg * E1 4c 1
Climb name Grade
  THE MAIN FACE
27 Mogadishu 4c * 1036
28 More than this 6a 376
29 The Outsider 6c 169
30 Finale 5a 885
31 new route left of school mam, name to follow 6a * 1033
32 School Mam 6b * 117
33 Cakewalk Direct 6c ** 408
34 The Cakewalk 6b+ ** 688
35 Route 3 6c *** 737
36 Roots Bloody Roots f6A+ 3
37 Route 2 6a ** 1865
38 Route 1.5 6a+ 22
39 Route 1 5a *** 2156
40 Cross Winds 6c+ ** 155
41 Driving the Dumper 6c+ * 89
42 Solid 6 7a 42
43 Foot and Mouth made me do it! 7c  
44 Fuel Injected 7b+ * 16
45 Secret Garden 6c+ * 63
46 Green Fingers 6b 107
47 Love Your Belayer S 4a 12
48 Vienna
-
6c 7
49 Cross Roads
-
6c 3
50 Left hand crack VD 23
Climb name Grade
51 Right hand crack S 24
52 Conan The Libertarian
-
6a 203
53 October Premiere
-
5c 258
54 Initiation 3a 108
  The Lost World
56 Cariad - Zimba 5a 478
57 Nain
-
4a 713
58 Ffrind
-
4a * 794
59 Taid 5a 800
60 Hidden Gem 4a 455
61 Mynydd Marion S * 32
  Wilderness Wall
63 Wilderness Wall 5a * 605
64 Butterfly Blue 4a 528
65 Tribute to Colin Goodey S 4a 10
66 Birthday Boy 5a * 386
67 Inspiration 4a 457
  Bantam Wall
69 Rosecomb 6a 41
70 Line 2
-
5c 37
71 Appenzeller 5c 367
72 Smartie 5c 386
73 Line One 4c 51
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer michael burrows