Climbs 86
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 49m a.s.l
Faces NW

The things we do to avoid the rain... © JHC

Crag features

Llanddulas Cave has been developed with a set of excellent sport routes from F5 to F8b, some of which are up to 25m in length. There was a period of development in 2009 and in 2010/2011 there were some major routes established and no less than 3 new areas were developed so that there are now 5 sectors:

1.Forgotten Sun Area (Good range of grades and some quarried rock)
2.Upper Cave (Varied, from major overhangs to more friendly stuff)
3.K O Wall(a few short but worthwhile climbs)
4.Golf Ball Wall (short routes but fun climbing)
5.The Tower(A big crag. Long routes with a sustained feel)

Approach notes

Llanddulas Cave is within an SSSI (Gwrych Castle Wood). Come off the A55 at J23. Turn left, pass through the village and turn right up Beulah Avenue. Turn left up Ffordd Newydd and park at the top. Turn left at the top and walk back down the road for 100m. A break in the wall on the right is the start of a path up to the crag.

Ko wall small rock fall yesterday
Slipknot_olly - 17/May/14
one of the bolt hangers holding up the sling on doomside up/upside doom has come off. not sure if the bolt has just loosened off or something. but anyway makes for a slightly harder catch and more interesting catch now!
tom290483 - 08/Apr/12
Personally I think Llanddulas Cave is better than Castle Inn. There's far more to go at and you almost always have it to yourself. Ground Up Publishing will be releasing a mini guide to the A55 crags towards the end of the year/early next year, which will include Llanddulas Cave.
Glyn Davidson - 28/Aug/09
I heard recently about some "new Llanddulas routes", I thought that perhaps someone had rediscovered Craig Y Forwen rather than anything more on Llanddulas Cave but it seems I was wrong. Is there an on-line topo to these new "mid-grade routes", F5's and F6's? I sure havn't missed a 3rd North Wales Limestone RockFax or mini-guide. Maybe it's time I went for a walk.
JimmAwelon - 25/Mar/08
majority of the lines have been bolted, aroudn the front part of the cave there are some trad lines still around. The crag is in the Rockfax North Wales limestone guide. The quarried face does not run like normal rock and gives some quite interesting climbing, although castle in in Llysfaen 5 minutes down the road is a much better crag if your in the area.
nicholas Barrowclough - 24/Mar/04
What do you mean it's been bolted? Has it all been bolted? When I was there there was quite some adventure to be had. It was good fun back in them days, perhaps it would be worth another visit sometime. Hopefully, it's still as quiet as it used to be.
Al Urker - 27/Jan/04
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  The Tower
2 The Soft Exit
-
6b+ 13
3 Seriously Rocking
-
7a * 17
4 Norma the Bitch
-
7a * 17
5 Tenacious T 7b ** 8
6 Resist the Race
-
7a+ ** 24
7 Big Kahoona Burger
-
7c ** 4
8 Vegas Nights
-
6c+ *** 53
9 Squeaky in Vegas 6c * 1
10 Squeaky and the Growler
-
6c+ * 7
11 Misfits 6a+ * 25
  Golf ball wall
13 Penblwydd Hapus
-
6a 21
14 The golf ball enigma
-
6c * 4
15 Off with their heads
-
7a+ 6
16 Rageh Omaar
-
6b 11
17 Hole in one
-
6a * 20
18 Whisper
-
6b+ 5
19 Turtle in trouble
-
6b+ * 9
20 Tea party
-
6b 4
21 Mad hatter - left of bolts 6b ** 4
22 Mad Hatter
-
6a * 18
  KO wall
24 Two Cs in a KO
-
6c 1
25 What man would
-
7b 1
26 Free the Bont
-
5c 31
27 Elizabeth Taylor
-
5c 20
28 Lady Emily Esther Ann Lygon
-
6a 17
  Main Cave
30 Lemon Crunch
-
5a 118
31 karmic wind 6a+ 140
32 Karmic Wind Direct
-
6b 25
33 mind light 6a+ 123
34 spider mite 6b 117
35 Dulas Ditchwater 6c 52
36 I pee freely
-
6b+ 12
37 Early Bird 6b 20
38 Wooton Basset
-
6b+ 11
39 Upside Doom 7c * 4
40 Main Overhang
-
A2 4
41 Yankee Doodle Pigeon 7c+ * 1
42 Dick Dastardly 8a+ * 1
43 Temple of Gloom
-
8b 2
44 Raiders of the Dark Ark 8b+ ** 1
45 The Last Crusade 8a+ ** 2
46 The Holy Grail 8c ** 1
47 Lord Nibbler
-
6b 4
48 Guano on sight 6a+ * 133
49 Adolescent Stimuli 6b * 37
50 Rosalind Franklin's picture 51 5a 89
51 Zoidburg 6c ** 35
52 Catch the Pigeon 7b * 1
53 Doomside Up 7a 63
54 Turbo Terrific 8b **  
55 The Wirral Whip
-
7c+ * 28
56 Nanabozho 8a * 2
57 Mudjekeewis
-
7b+ ** 71
58 Pearl from the Shell 6c+ 161
59 sticky fingers
-
7b+ 36
60 Searching 7a * 81
61 El Tigre
-
7b 75
62 PC wimpout
-
6a+ 124
63 grog and the donkey
-
6b+ 17
64 afterglow 6b ** 32
65 Turtle Tripler
-
6a+ 17
  forgotten sun
67 Too Point Zero S 4a 6
68 White man's burden 6b * 128
69 Rala Rwdins 6b+ *** 209
70 Tony Stud
-
7b 8
71 Stretcharmstrong
-
6c+ * 56
72 The Man with the Indiarubber Head
-
6a * 199
73 Udder Head
-
6a * 197
74 Name of the Pose
-
6a+ * 139
75 Clipterfyn 5c 179
76 Poet Lariat 6a+ 109
77 Not Runout Groove 6a 106
78 Runout Groove
-
6b 53
79 Field of Dreams
-
6b+ * 83
80 The portcullis
-
V6  
81 Unnamed Boulder Problem
-
V3  
82 Construction of Meaning 7a 18
83 Crack of Dawn
-
6b * 41
84 Gone Down Under 7b  
85 Prime the Pump
-
7b ** 54
86 Pump Action 7a * 33
87 Trail of the Snail
-
6b+ * 22
88 Forgotten Sun
-
6b+ 46
89 A brief history of lime 6c 23
90 Duckworth Lewis
-
6b+ 15
91 Milo
-
6b 20

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