Climbs 85
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 49m a.s.l
Faces NW

The things we do to avoid the rain... © JHC

Crag features

Llanddulas Cave has been developed with a set of excellent sport routes from F5 to F8b, some of which are up to 25m in length. There was a period of development in 2009 and in 2010/2011 there were some major routes established and no less than 3 new areas were developed so that there are now 5 sectors:

1.Forgotten Sun Area (Good range of grades and some quarried rock)
2.Upper Cave (Varied, from major overhangs to more friendly stuff)
3.K O Wall(a few short but worthwhile climbs)
4.Golf Ball Wall (short routes but fun climbing)
5.The Tower(A big crag. Long routes with a sustained feel)

Approach notes

Llanddulas Cave is within an SSSI (Gwrych Castle Wood). Come off the A55 at J23. Turn left, pass through the village and turn right up Beulah Avenue. Turn left up Ffordd Newydd and park at the top. Turn left at the top and walk back down the road for 100m. A break in the wall on the right is the start of a path up to the crag.

Access Advice

The edges five separate sites - Forgotten Sun area, Upper Cave, KO Wall, Golf Ball Wall and the Tower.  All of the climbing lies within the Gwrych Castle & Llanddulas SSSI. The area is especially noted for its assemblage of the Wild Cabbage (Brassica oleracea) and there have been concerns by CCW that climbing has negatively impacted on some of the plants.  It is imperative that no more route cleaning or new routing occurs without consultation with CCW if serious access restrictions are to be avoided here.

Parking Update

There have been a number of complaints from local residents regarding climbers parking and creating obstructions to local residents along Fordd Newydd/New Road; climbers are advised especially to not park close to or opposite any drives or gateways.

If there are already several cars here, there's plenty of alternative parking: either at the car park near the beach gained via Beach House Road opposite
Rhyd-y-foel Road (near the excellent Tides Cafe LL22 8HA)  or on Beulah Avenue gained by turning right at the village hall on the outskirts of the village, just past the Valentines Pub.





Ko wall small rock fall yesterday
Slipknot_olly - 17/May/14
one of the bolt hangers holding up the sling on doomside up/upside doom has come off. not sure if the bolt has just loosened off or something. but anyway makes for a slightly harder catch and more interesting catch now!
tom290483 - 08/Apr/12
Personally I think Llanddulas Cave is better than Castle Inn. There's far more to go at and you almost always have it to yourself. Ground Up Publishing will be releasing a mini guide to the A55 crags towards the end of the year/early next year, which will include Llanddulas Cave.
Glyn Davidson - 28/Aug/09
I heard recently about some "new Llanddulas routes", I thought that perhaps someone had rediscovered Craig Y Forwen rather than anything more on Llanddulas Cave but it seems I was wrong. Is there an on-line topo to these new "mid-grade routes", F5's and F6's? I sure havn't missed a 3rd North Wales Limestone RockFax or mini-guide. Maybe it's time I went for a walk.
JimmAwelon - 25/Mar/08
majority of the lines have been bolted, aroudn the front part of the cave there are some trad lines still around. The crag is in the Rockfax North Wales limestone guide. The quarried face does not run like normal rock and gives some quite interesting climbing, although castle in in Llysfaen 5 minutes down the road is a much better crag if your in the area.
nicholas Barrowclough - 24/Mar/04
What do you mean it's been bolted? Has it all been bolted? When I was there there was quite some adventure to be had. It was good fun back in them days, perhaps it would be worth another visit sometime. Hopefully, it's still as quiet as it used to be.
Al Urker - 27/Jan/04
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
 The Tower 
2The Soft Exit
6b+ 13
3Seriously Rocking
7a *18
4Norma the Bitch
7a *17
5Tenacious T7b **10
6Resist the Race
7a+ **29
7Big Kahoona Burger
7c **4
8Vegas Nights
6c+ ***61
9Squeaky and the Growler
6c+ *7
10Misfits6a+ *24
 Golf ball wall 
12Penblwydd Hapus
6a 21
13The golf ball enigma
6c *3
14Off with their heads
7a+ 5
15Rageh Omaar
6b 11
16Hole in one
6a *20
6b+ 5
18Turtle in trouble
6b+ *9
19Tea party
6b 4
20Mad hatter - left of bolts6b **4
21Mad Hatter
6a *18
 KO wall 
23Two Cs in a KO
6c 2
24What man would
7b 1
25Free the Bont
5c 30
26Elizabeth Taylor
5c 20
27Lady Emily Esther Ann Lygon
6a 17
 Main Cave 
29Lemon Crunch
5a 113
30karmic wind6a+ 133
61grog and the donkey
6b+ 17
62afterglow6b **32
63Turtle Tripler
6a+ 17
 forgotten sun 
65Too Point ZeroS 4a 6
66White man's burden6b *124
6b+ ***197
68Tony Stud
7b 8
6c+ *53
70The Man with the Indiarubber Head
6a *195
71Udder Head
6a *194
72Name of the Pose
6a+ *133
73Clipterfyn5c 172
74Poet Lariat6a+ 100
75Not Runout Groove6a 99
76Runout Groove
6b 47
77Field of Dreams
6b+ *75
78The portcullis
79Unnamed Boulder Problem
80Construction of Meaning7a 17
81Crack of Dawn
6b *38
82Gone Down Under7b  
83Prime the Pump
7b **45
84Pump Action7a *32
85Trail of the Snail
6b+ *20
86Forgotten Sun
6b+ 45
87A brief history of lime6c 24
88Duckworth Lewis
6b+ 13
6b 18
90The Holy Grail *8c **1
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer michael burrows