Llanddulas Cave has been developed with a set of excellent sport routes from F5 to F8b, some of which are up to 25m in length. There was a period of development in 2009 and in 2010/2011 there were some major routes established and no less than 3 new areas were developed so that there are now 5 sectors:
1.Forgotten Sun Area (Good range of grades and some quarried rock)
2.Upper Cave (Varied, from major overhangs to more friendly stuff)
3.K O Wall(a few short but worthwhile climbs)
4.Golf Ball Wall (short routes but fun climbing)
5.The Tower(A big crag. Long routes with a sustained feel)
Llanddulas Cave is within an SSSI (Gwrych Castle Wood). Come off the A55 at J23. Turn left, pass through the village and turn right up Beulah Avenue. Turn left up Ffordd Newydd and park at the top. Turn left at the top and walk back down the road for 100m. A break in the wall on the right is the start of a path up to the crag.
The edges five separate sites - Forgotten Sun area, Upper Cave, KO Wall, Golf Ball Wall and the Tower. All of the climbing lies within the Gwrych Castle & Llanddulas SSSI. The area is especially noted for its assemblage of the Wild Cabbage (Brassica oleracea) and there have been concerns by CCW that climbing has negatively impacted on some of the plants. It is imperative that no more route cleaning or new routing occurs without consultation with CCW if serious access restrictions are to be avoided here.
There have been a number of complaints from local residents regarding climbers parking and creating obstructions to local residents along Fordd Newydd/New Road; climbers are advised especially to not park close to or opposite any drives or gateways.
If there are already several cars here, there's plenty of alternative parking: either at the car park near the beach gained via Beach House Road opposite
Rhyd-y-foel Road (near the excellent Tides Cafe LL22 8HA) or on Beulah Avenue gained by turning right at the village hall on the outskirts of the village, just past the Valentines Pub.
Last update: 09/12/2013
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one of the bolt hangers holding up the sling on doomside up/upside doom has come off. not sure if the bolt has just loosened off or something. but anyway makes for a slightly harder catch and more interesting catch now! tom290483 - 08/Apr/12
Personally I think Llanddulas Cave is better than Castle Inn. There's far more to go at and you almost always have it to yourself. Ground Up Publishing will be releasing a mini guide to the A55 crags towards the end of the year/early next year, which will include Llanddulas Cave. Glyn Davidson - 28/Aug/09
I heard recently about some "new Llanddulas routes", I thought that perhaps someone had rediscovered Craig Y Forwen rather than anything more on Llanddulas Cave but it seems I was wrong. Is there an on-line topo to these new "mid-grade routes", F5's and F6's? I sure havn't missed a 3rd North Wales Limestone RockFax or mini-guide. Maybe it's time I went for a walk. JimmAwelon - 25/Mar/08
majority of the lines have been bolted, aroudn the front part of the cave there are some trad lines still around. The crag is in the Rockfax North Wales limestone guide. The quarried face does not run like normal rock and gives some quite interesting climbing, although castle in in Llysfaen 5 minutes down the road is a much better crag if your in the area. nicholas Barrowclough - 24/Mar/04
What do you mean it's been bolted? Has it all been bolted?
When I was there there was quite some adventure to be had.
It was good fun back in them days, perhaps it would be worth another visit sometime.
Hopefully, it's still as quiet as it used to be. Al Urker - 27/Jan/04