Climbs 36
Rocktype Gritstone
Altitude 412m a.s.l
Faces all

View Stats

Small cascades in Far Black Clough © mattwomersley

Crag features

The Black Cloughs as a whole are at the eastern end of Longdendale. Far Black Clough is a fine little crag in a secluded setting, and very much worth a visit. Middle Black Clough contains a number of short buttresses and makes for a good day out, when combined with the other Cloughs. Near Black Clough contains nothing of interest to the climber, with the exception of the terrifying boulder problem, The Scariest.

The climbing is mainly in the VS/HVS range. All the climbs end with a search for belays, but these days, a little searching generally reveals some decent stakes.

Good topo for the Middle and Near Black Cloughs here.

Approach notes

Park near the entrance to Woodhead Tunnel, just off the A628. Cross the bridge, follow the track upstream, and then follow your nose up the different cloughs to the various buttresses. The crags are deceptive and hard to spot from the top.

The new guide book diagram is completely wrong for routes 1-4, added to lack of discriptions its confusing.Take the old guide!
Roget - 25/Aug/12
Is this crag now covered in steel mesh?
99bolivar - 16/Jan/12
Login as Existing User to add your comments

Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  Far Black Clough
2 Bad Ticker
-
E1 5b 1
3 Lifeline VS 4c * 7
4 Heartbeat E1 5a * 5
5 Artful Dodger
-
HVS 5a 5
6 Bill
-
HS 4b 1
7 Little Weed
-
HVD 3
8 Ben
-
HS 3
9 Stonehinge
-
VS 4b * 3
10 The Stone Tree
-
E2 5b ** 6
11 Original Route
-
M 9
12 Cutty Sark
-
S 5
13 Famous Grouse
-
HVS 5a * 9
Climb name Grade
14 Feast Time
-
E1 5b *  
15 Pregnant Pause
-
S 4a  
16 Southern Comfort
-
VS 4c 1
17 South Paw
-
VS 5a 1
18 Flying Badger
-
VS 4c 1
  Middle Black Clough
20 Yeti
-
VS 4b  
21 Pure Green
-
E1 5b *  
22 Brown(ian) Motion
-
HVS 5a *  
23 Literate
-
VS 4c  
24 Litter Arête
-
E1 5b  
25 Dyslexic
-
VS 5b  
26 Surety
-
S 4b  
Climb name Grade
27 Uncertain
-
HVS 5a  
28 Jagged Edge
-
VS 5a  
29 Jammer
-
HVS 5b  
30 Judge Jeffreys
-
HS 4b  
31 Rope
-
VS 4b  
32 Pierrepoint
-
VS 4c  
33 Furry Crack
-
S 4b  
34 Skinned
-
VS 5a *  
35 Oak Quest
-
HVS 5a  
36 Where’s that Oak Gone!
-
HVS 5b  
37 Middle Black Clough (Winter) III * 1
  Near Black Clough
39 The Scariest E2 4c  

Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer cmgcmg