Climbs 117
Rocktype Sandstone (soft)
Altitude 120m a.s.l
Faces S

Emma on the unfairly named problem called 'Warm Up' on Deforestation Boulder © Daimon Beail

Crag features

Very small, both in size and height (up to 5m), but only 10 minutes walk from Bulls Hollow - so it can be an alternative. Rock can be variable in quality - mostly soft and sandy (like the other crags, really).

Approach notes

NO LEADING - soloing or toproping only, and if the latter then extend the belay over the crag edge - it saves your rope and the rock.
The crag lies immediately W of St Pauls Church on Rusthall Common, 1km W of Tunbrige Wells. From the A264 Tun.Wells-E Grinstead rd follow the white finger-post directing twds the footpath for Happy Valley.

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Guidebooks

Southern Sandstone Climbs

The Southern Sandstone Rockfax covers the climbing situated in the Southeast of England on the borders of Kent and East Sussex.The book covers the climbing and bouldering in the usual Rockfax style - big full-colour photo-topos, detailed maps and full text descriptions - all lavishly supported by some great action photography.
More info
Very nice quiet spot for low-mid grade bouldering on a sunny day. Red Snapper at Font 6a is definitely worth a go.
James Gomez - 22/Aug/11
Watch out for the wasp nest on the the right side of routes 1-3
Big Lee - 01/Aug/10
Had a great time there. Wish the top of the pinacle had a bolt on top. Its abit of a high ball solo.
Andrew Lewis - 15/Aug/08
A QUIETER VENUE WITH EASIER BOULDERING PROBLEMS NOW BENEFITS FROM CUT BACK SCRUB SOME STEEPER LANDINGS TAKE A PAD & A MATE TO STOP YOU ROLLING DOWN THE HILL?.
chunk - 04/Oct/05
great fow low grade bouldering
ian h - 02/Dec/03
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  Reach for the Dead
2 Reach for the Dead f3+ *  
  Hidden Gem
4 Beacon Wall f4 * 20
5 Magic Fountain f4 **  
6 Hidden Gem f4 ** 21
7 Doug's Come-uppance f4+ ** 1
  The Back Wall
9 The Happening f6A+ * 2
10 It is What it is f7A **  
11 Genesis f7C ** 1
12 Winter Blues f6B+  
13 1000 Moomins f5 * 6
  Bane's Boulder
15 Born in a Barn f4  
16 Budgy Smugglers f4 2
17 Bane Rabbit f3+ 2
18 Bane Cat f3  
  Sweeps Cave Area
20 The Deer Hunter f5+ *  
21 Bambi's Mother f4 **  
22 Kate Moss f5+  
23 Sooty f6A+ 7
24 Inglenook - Left-hand f6B 1
25 Inglenook f5+ 8
26 Inglenook - Right-hand f6B+  
  West Valley Wall
28 West Wall f5 12
29 Mash Potatoes f3+ * 12
30 West Valley Wall Traverse f5 8
31 Stag f4 * 13
32 Stag Doo f6A 9
33 Stag Arete f2+ 10
  Deforestation Boulder
35 A Day in the Park f2 *  
36 Scooped Out f2  
37 Herne the Hunter f2  
38 Underverse f5+ ** 3
39 Oververse f6A * 1
40 Slopey Goodness f5 *  
41 Iron Arete f6A+ **  
42 Warm Up f6A+ * 9
43 The Road to Salvation f6C+ 1
44 The Groove f6B 5
45 The Face f6B+ 1
46 Pentecost f6C 1
47 Zacchaeus f6B+ 1
  Main Cliff
49 Starting Block f2+ 18
50 Ever So Minnow Minnow f2+ 47
51 Flying Trout f5 * 26
52 Minnow f4+ * 47
53 Sushi f5 15
54 Stonefish f4 * 69
55 Moray f3+ ** 68
56 Red Snapper f5 *** 72
57 Going Turbot f5 55
58 Mullet Over f5 * 4
59 Kippers f3 33
60 Cleft f2 44
61 Cornucopia f4 * 23
62 Pot-belly f4 * 35
63 Mist f2+ 35
64 Festive f2+ 30
65 Just-In f2+ 15
66 The Short Sharp Cock f2+ * 56
67 Master of Muck f5 ** 45
68 November Rain f2+ 26
69 Overhanging Nose f4+ 5a 2
70 Home to Roost f3+ * 27
71 The Buzzard Years f3 * 58
72 By a Narrow Margin f4+ 2
73 And Tigger too f4 * 35
74 Corner Crack f3 52
75 Pooh's Route f6A ** 10
76 Shhh I'm Taking a Little Pooh
-
f6B 1
77 Rotpunkt f4+ 41
78 The Deadly Lampshade f2+ 54
79 Malcolm Mcpherson's a Very Strange Person f2+ 48
80 Girdle Traverse none 5c 2
81 Foxtrot f3+ 1
82 Meeny f2+ * 1
83 Tango f4  
84 Pogo f5+  
85 Two Step f5+ 2
86 Red Mullet f6A+ ** 1
87 Flying Trout LHS f3  
  Welcome to the Jungle
89 Welcome to the Jungle f6C  
90 Single Life f6C  
91 The Cross f7A ** 1
92 Good Friday f7A * 1
93 NS (Not Skinnered) 6b+ 5c 2
  The Cheeswring Rock
95 The Chimney 3a 3a 14
96 Harveys 7b 6b  
97 Thoroughly Kentish 6b+ 5c *  
98 Colour of the Sun 7a+ 6b  
99 Eckpfeiler 6c+ 6a 1
100 Brouillard 6c+ 6a * 3
101 Nightrain 7a+ 6b  
102 FrĂȘney 6c 6a 3
103 Sandstone Safari 6c+ 6a ** 2
104 Chalybeate 6b+ 5c * 5
105 From Behind 6b 5b * 4
  Route Minor Wall
107 Rhody-O 6b+ 5c  
108 Route Minor 4c 4c 12
109 Undercut Rib 4b 4b 17
110 Grimace 4b 4b 4
111 The Race Home 4c 4c 10

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