Climbs 117
Rocktype Sandstone (soft)
Altitude 120m a.s.l
Faces S

Emma on the unfairly named problem called 'Warm Up' on Deforestation Boulder © Daimon Beail

Crag features

Very small, both in size and height (up to 5m), but only 10 minutes walk from Bulls Hollow - so it can be an alternative. Rock can be variable in quality - mostly soft and sandy (like the other crags, really).

Approach notes

NO LEADING - soloing or toproping only, and if the latter then extend the belay over the crag edge - it saves your rope and the rock.
The crag lies immediately W of St Pauls Church on Rusthall Common, 1km W of Tunbrige Wells. From the A264 Tun.Wells-E Grinstead rd follow the white finger-post directing twds the footpath for Happy Valley.

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Guidebooks

Southern Sandstone Climbs

The Southern Sandstone Rockfax covers the climbing situated in the Southeast of England on the borders of Kent and East Sussex.The book covers the climbing and bouldering in the usual Rockfax style - big full-colour photo-topos, detailed maps and full text descriptions - all lavishly supported by some great action photography.
More info
Very nice quiet spot for low-mid grade bouldering on a sunny day. Red Snapper at Font 6a is definitely worth a go.
James Gomez - 22/Aug/11
Watch out for the wasp nest on the the right side of routes 1-3
Big Lee - 01/Aug/10
Had a great time there. Wish the top of the pinacle had a bolt on top. Its abit of a high ball solo.
Andrew Lewis - 15/Aug/08
A QUIETER VENUE WITH EASIER BOULDERING PROBLEMS NOW BENEFITS FROM CUT BACK SCRUB SOME STEEPER LANDINGS TAKE A PAD & A MATE TO STOP YOU ROLLING DOWN THE HILL?.
chunk - 04/Oct/05
great fow low grade bouldering
ian h - 02/Dec/03
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  Reach for the Dead
2 Reach for the Dead f3+ * 4
3 Reach for the Dead - Campus f6B 1
  Hidden Gem
5 Beacon Wall f4 * 24
6 Magic Fountain f4 ** 1
7 Hidden Gem f4 ** 28
8 Doug's Come-uppance f4+ ** 4
9 I Can Only Imagine f6C 1
  The Back Wall
11 The Happening f6A+ * 3
12 It is What it is f7A ** 2
13 Genesis f7C ** 1
14 Winter Blues f6B+  
15 1000 Moomins f5 * 10
  Bane's Boulder
17 Born in a Barn f4 8
18 Budgy Smugglers f4 10
19 Bane Rabbit f3+ 14
20 Bane Cat f3 11
  Sweeps Cave Area
22 The Deer Hunter f5+ * 1
23 Bambi's Mother f4 ** 5
24 Kate Moss f5+ 3
25 Sooty f6A+ 11
26 Compo and the String Belt f5 1
27 Inglenook - Left-hand f6B 3
28 Inglenook f5+ 12
29 Inglenook - Right-hand f6B+ 1
  West Valley Wall
31 West Wall Shorty f4+ 1
32 West Wall f5 15
33 Mori Madness f5 2
34 Mash Potatoes f3+ * 25
35 West Valley Wall Traverse f5 20
36 Stag f4 * 23
37 Stag Doo f6A 13
38 Stag Arete f2+ 13
39 Stuck In Traverse f6A 1
40 PV - The Hobbit f5  
Climb name Grade
  Deforestation Boulder
42 A Day in the Park f2 * 5
43 Scooped Out f2 5
44 Herne the Hunter f2 5
45 Underverse f5+ ** 3
46 Oververse f6A * 2
47 Slopey Goodness f5 * 2
48 Iron Arete f6A+ ** 2
49 Warm Up f6A+ * 21
50 The Road to Salvation f6C+ 1
51 The Groove f6B 9
52 The Face f6B+ 3
53 Pentecost f6C 3
54 Zacchaeus f6B+ 2
  Main Cliff
56 Starting Block f2+ 22
57 Ever So Minnow Minnow f2+ 53
58 Flying Trout LHS f3 2
59 Flying Trout f5 * 30
60 Minnow f4+ * 54
61 Sushi f5 16
62 Stonefish f4 * 71
63 Moray f3+ ** 73
64 Red Snapper f5 *** 77
65 Going Turbot f5 58
66 Red Mullet f6A+ ** 1
67 Mullet Over f5 * 4
68 Kippers f3 35
69 Cleft f2 44
70 Cornucopia f4 * 23
71 Pot-belly f4 * 36
72 Mist f2+ 35
73 Festive f2+ 31
74 Just-In f2+ 16
75 The Short Sharp Cock f2+ * 59
76 Master of Muck f5 ** 51
77 November Rain f2+ 28
78 Overhanging Nose f4+ 5a 2
79 Home to Roost f3+ * 31
80 The Buzzard Years f3 * 61
Climb name Grade
81 By a Narrow Margin f4+ 3
82 And Tigger too f4 * 40
83 Corner Crack f3 58
84 Pooh's Route f6A ** 12
85 Shhh I'm Taking a Little Pooh
-
f6B 3
86 Rotpunkt f4+ 44
87 The Deadly Lampshade f2+ 58
88 Malcolm Mcpherson's a Very Strange Person f2+ 51
89 Girdle Traverse none 5c 2
90 Foxtrot f3+ 1
91 Meeny f2+ * 1
92 Tango f4  
93 Pogo f5+  
94 Two Step f5+ 2
  Welcome to the Jungle
96 Welcome to the Jungle f6C  
97 Single Life f6C  
98 The Cross f7A ** 1
99 Good Friday f7A * 1
100 NS (Not Skinnered) 6b+ 5c 2
  The Cheeswring Rock
102 The Chimney 3a 3a 14
103 Harveys 7b 6b  
104 Thoroughly Kentish 6b+ 5c * 1
105 Colour of the Sun 7a+ 6b  
106 Eckpfeiler 6c+ 6a 1
107 Brouillard 6c+ 6a * 4
108 Nightrain 7a+ 6b  
109 FrĂȘney 6c 6a 3
110 Sandstone Safari 6c+ 6a ** 2
111 Chalybeate 6b+ 5c * 5
112 From Behind 6b 5b * 4
  Route Minor Wall
114 Rhody-O 6b+ 5c  
115 Route Minor 4c 4c 14
116 Undercut Rib 4b 4b 19
117 Grimace 4b 4b 4
118 The Race Home 4c 4c 10

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